Wines Off the Beaten Path: Part I

The cover story of the current issue of the Wine Spectator (Jan. 31 - Feb. 28, 2014) features columns by several of the magazine's writers highlighting their picks for wines "off the beaten path" to explore for the coming year.  I was pleased to find that many of my favorites were among those included from the 30 categories selected, although I must say that I've been touting their attributes for some years now.
http://www.winespectator.com/magazine/show/id/49457

Whereas, like most wine aficionados, I will appreciate and enjoy any fine Cabernet, Shiraz or Pinot, I find myself constantly drawn to the many grape varietals outside the mainstream that usually deserve much more attention than they normally receive from the general wine-drinking public and which I often feature in my wine tasting classes.  These lesser known and under-appreciated fruits of the vine offer sensory experiences that delight the nose and palate and extend the pleasure of the wine drinker well beyond the confines of the "noble" varietals, however exceptional they may be.  Simply put, there are just too many great wines out there on the market to get stuck in a Cab or Pinot rut.  Although it does take a little extra time and effort to seek them out, the rewards are well-worth the trouble.  And to save you some of that time and effort, I offer you the following recommendations to expand your palate and see where it takes you. (I will start off with  reds and catch up with whites on a future post.)

1.  Nerello Mascalese: Grown on the volcanic soils around the base of Mt Etna, my most recent discovery of  an off-the-beaten-path varietal was one I featured in my last class on Sicilian wines.  If you like pinot noir, you definitely want to check this one out.  It was a real crowd pleaser in my class and comes either blended or as a stand-alone varietal.  Wine Works in Cherry Hill has a good selection. Etna Rosso is the regional classification (DOC).  This one runs about $20.

      Thalia, Pietro Caciorgna, Etna Rosso 2010

Varietal: 100% Nerello Mascalese

Classification: DOC Etna Rosso

Tasting/Production Notes: Aromas run the gamut from cola to tamarind, pink peppercorn, crushed red berries; Burgundian mouthfeel; limpid, pure red-berry fruit flavors, hints of licorice, caramel, dusted with pepper; sourced from 100 year old vineyards. 13 % Alcohol

Food pairings: Squid-ink pasta (pasta al nìvuro di sìccia); pigeon breasts in red wine sauce (blancs de pigeon au rouge); roasted squab with crisped almonds; wild mushroom and eggplant filo

2.  Touriga Nacional :  This indigenous grape of Portugal is one of the star varietals in the Douro region and appears as either a blend or 100% varietal in any number of top bottlings from this rapidly rising wine region. I've already commented on several wines that feature this grape in previous posts (see Quinta de Ventozelo, Quinta do Vale Meao, Quinta do Vale Meao Meandro).  The Wine Spectator article puts a spotlight on a small producer called Wine & Soul. I haven't yet tried any of their wines but will be sure to report on them once I do.

3. Mencia: An indigenous varietal from the Bierzo region of northwest Spain, this food-friendly wine with a fruity appeal (wild berry and cherry flavors), bracing acidity and earthy herbal notes, has become one of my house favorites.  While the Mencias featured in the Wine Spectator article are priced mostly in the $15-25 range, the wine store at Wegmans in Cherry Hill offers a couple different brands of this very appealing wine for less than $10.  And for a little cachet, they are actually rated around 90 points according to Robert Parker.  In any event, it's a very good deal for an up an coming wine off the beaten path.

Alvarez de Toledo Mencia Roble Luis Varela Bierzo

Flavium Bierzo Crianza

  

4. Tannat: This varietal, which originated in the region of Madiran in southwest France, has found a new home with ideal growing conditions in Uruguay such that it is now considered the national grape of this small South American country in the shadow of its larger neighbor and wine producing powerhouse, Argentina. The Wine Spectator article only mentions the Uruguay connection in passing and recommends Tannat wines from France and California. On the other hand,  I have grown partial to the Tannat offerings from a producer in Uruguay which are available at Total Wine for significantly less than the French and California versions.  As you might suspect, the name "Tannat" is in fact related the word "tannin" which I discussed in a previous post.  You can therefore expect to get a good dose of tannins in these wines, although a fine Tannat will offer much more, especially with sufficient aeration. Floral aromas,  licorice and blackberry flavors along with earthy wood or mushroom notes are commom attributes of this dark ruby, robust wine.  Here are two suggestions from the Pisano winery:

 Pisano Tannat Rio de Los Pajaros  (about $15):Dark ruby in color; jammy wildfruit, cranberry; ripe tannins with a complex nose of wood and mushrooms.

Pisano Tannat RPF (about $19):Intense purple in color with a complex nose of ripe dark plums and spiced wood; firm tannins; robust; jammy plum, cranberry and blackberry flavors.

 

 

Portuguese Wines - Addendum

For more information on Portuguese wine recommendations, please see the following wine list from my wine tasting course of a few years back:

The Wines of Portugal

Mt. Airy Learning Tree

March 23, 2010

1.      Avelada « Praia » Vinho Verde Vinho Branco (Denominacao de Origem Controlada – DOC) 2009

Varietal: Alvarinho

Region: Vinho Verde

Tasting Notes: Slightly spritzy, full of fruity flavors, lasting peach flavor finish; light bodied; 10% alc.; well-balanced; refreshing; pair with fish, seafood, white meat, salad.

2.      Grao Vasco Dao Vinho Branco (DOC) 2009

Varietals: Encruzado, Bical Mavasia-fina

Region: Dao

Tasting Notes: Clean, dry; aromatic nose with a hint of citrus; medium-bodied; 13% alc.; pair with shrimp, calamari, steamed white fish

3.      Grao Vasco Dao Vinho Tinto (DOC) 2007

Varietals: Jaen, Tinto Roriz (Tempranillo), Touriga-Nacional

Region: Dao

Tasting Notes: the fragrant and elegant aroma combines hints of red fruits and typical earthy notes in a fruit-forward style;  light, elegant wine; ideal for everyday drinking; fresh, berry, spice, medium-bodied; 13% alc.

4.      Sogrape Alentejo Vinha do Monte Vinho Tinto (Vinho Regional Alentejano) 2007        (This is one of my “house wines” –excellent value!)                                   

Varietal: Aragonez, Trincadeira, Moreto, Periquita

Region: Alentejo (Herdade do Peso)

Tasting Notes: Characterized by a fresh and intense bouquet, reminiscent of red fruits (strawberry, raspberry) with touches of spice, typical of Alentejo wine. On the palate it has a very soft flavor with an elegant and lingering finish; easy drinking; medium-bodied;14% alc.;  pair with pasta salads, poultry and spicy dishes.

5.      Quinta de Ventozelo Douro Vinho Tinto (DOC) 2005

Varietal: Touriga Nacional

Region: Douro

Tasting Notes: Strong, dark tannins; bone dry; ripe fruit, black figs, plums; intense; full-bodied; opens up on mouth with spice & sweet acidity; aged 12 months in oak barrels; 14% alc.; pair with pastas and red meats.

6.       Meandro do Vale Meao (Quinta do Vale Meao) Douro Vinho Tinto (DOC) 2004

Varietal: Touriga Nacional (30%), Touriga Franca (30%), Tinta Roriz (30%), Tinto Barroca (5%), Tinta Amarela (5%).

Region: Douro

Tasting Notes: "Intense kirsch-like aroma is followed by pure flavors of dark cherry and blackberry, with loads of mineral and spice. Refined and powerful, with a long, long finish of iron and hot stone." Wine Spectator 92 Points; 14.5% alc.

7.      Sogrape Dao Duque de Viseu (DOC) 2007

      Varietal : Touriga Nacional, Jaen, Alfrocheiro Preto and Tinta Roriz

      

      Region : Dao

Tasting Notes : fruity aroma which complements fresh oak and pepper      flavors; full-bodied, with rounded tannins; clean, velvety. 13% alc.

8.       Cister da Ribeira Douro Vinho Tinto (DOC) 2006

Varietal: Touriga Franca (40%), Tinta Roriz (20%), Touriga Nacional (20%), Tinta Barroca (20%)

                    Region: Douro

Tasting Notes: No oak aging; bright cherry fruit; red plum mingled with spice, smoke, hint of mint, licorice; ripe tannins; pair with roast chicken, pasta, grilled sausage. 13% alc.

IRONBOUD – Newark’s Destination for Portuguese Fine Wines and Dining

Newark, New Jersey - Seriously??

Yes, indeed, seriously!

Former Mayor, now US Senator Corey Booker, may be a national figure and well-known for his attempts to resurrect the much maligned city of Newark - generally regarded as the source of all things nasty about Northern New Jersey -,  but few outside the city know that there are actually some really cool things about this urban vortex of expressways, turnpikes and parkways.  One of them is the charming ethnic enclave of the Ironbound neighborhood literally just a block from the Amtrak (Newark Penn) train station.

http://www.goironbound.com/portal/

 



Largely Portuguese by ethnicity and origin, this lively barrio, bisected by its main commercial strip, Ferry Street, is also home to many Latinos from South America, especially Brazil and Ecuador. Markets, restaurants, cafes, bakeries, specialty shops, bars and wine stores abound with multilingual signage beckoning the visitor to stop in and sample their wares.  For wine aficionados, especially those who delight in the Iberian variety, such as myself,  Ironbound is ground zero for an excellent selection of Portuguese wines at unbeatable prices.  In particular, I recommend the Lisbon Wines & Liquors shop at 114 Ferry Street.
http://www.lisbonliquors.com/shop/

It's a relatively small shop, but boasts the best selection of Portuguese wines this side of  the Iberian peninsula.  Not only are the shopkeepers friendly and helpful, but you get an extra 10% discount on any case of wine.  And the bargains seem never ending - just ask my friends Kim and Chris, who accompanied me on a road trip up there just last November (about 90 minutes from Philadelphia).

After browsing the shop for a good hour or more, we made our selections, then headed over to one of the best restaurants in the neighborhood that specializes in traditional Portuguese seafood dishes as well as other popular dishes from the old country.  The restaurant, Seabra's Marisqueira, was featured this past year in the New York Times in an article about a chef returning to his roots:

http://www.nytimes.com/2013/06/19/dining/the-essence-of-portugal-in-a-crisped-sardine.html

http://www.njdiningguide.net/Seabras/




 And while you're at it, don't forget to sample some of the delicious pastries to be found in the local bakeries specializing in Portuguese sweet delights.  My favorite is Teixeira's (184 Ferry Street).  The egg custard tarts (pasteis de nata) are especially tasty - and cheap!



And now for some wine recommendations:

1. One of my favorite house wines ("house wine" meaning a good quality, inexpensive wine for everyday drinking I usually on hand) is the Vinha do Monte, a red wine from the Alentejo region. A blend of mostly  Portuguese indigenous grape varietals 
(Aragonêz, Alfrocheiro, Trincadeira, Syrah, A. Bouschet)
this fruity (blackberry, red plum), full-bodied wine with complex aromas, round, smooth tannins, and a soft mouthfeel, is an absolute delight to the senses and pairs well with meat, poultry, pasta and hard cheeses.  At Total Wine, it retails for about $12, but at Lisbon Wines & Liquors, it's just $6 a bottle - in my opinion, the best deal around for a quality wine under $10!








 

 2. Another good value wine for under $10 is the Grao Vasco Red (Tinto) from the Dao region.  This "bargain" wine is a bit more earthy or rustic than the Vinha do Monte with a lighter body,  slightly more assertive tannins, but still fresh and lively and fruity.  It scored very well last year the Wine Spectator as a "good value" wine.  It retails for $8.99 at Total Wine, but just $5.29 at Lisbon Wines & Liquors.




3.  Moving up on the price point scale, I bring your attention now to what is considered among many wine experts to be the finest Cabernet Sauvignon currently produced in Portugal, and as such is yet another unbeatable bargain in terms of  quality/price ratio or simply put, "bang for your buck". The Quinta da Bacalhoa from the Peninsula de Setubal region (P. de Setubal, for short) is a top quality Cabernet (blended with Merlot) vinified in the Bordeaux style at a fraction of the price you would pay for a bottle of similar quality from the northern neighbor.  Indeed, this is not surprising given that the renowned Lafitte Rothschild Group acquired a stake in the Bacalhoa wine company in 2007.  Aged 11 months in new French oak casks, this refined and elegant wine exudes aromas of red fruits with notes of wood and spice complimented by smooth tannins with a slightly minerally, long finish.  It will do well with several years of careful cellaring.  I recently sampled a 2007 vintage and it was still very much in its prime.  Retailing for $25.99 at Lisbon Wines & Liquors (and comparably priced elsewhere), this is minor splurge well worth your investment.  (Other fine wines from the same producer include Quinta do Carmo and Dom Marthinho.)

http://www.bacalhoa.com/default.htm




4. If you really want to pull out all the stops and go for a big splurge (but still not break the bank as is all too easy with top Bordeaux, Burgundy or California wines),  may I recommend one of the top 5 wines I've ever had the pleasure of indulging in:  the Quinta do Vale Meao (QVM) consistently scores very high marks in Wine Spectator ratings (93-95 out of 100), but all rating aside, you may never experience as luscious, elegant, silky and complex a wine as this beauty.  Originating in the Douro region, famous for port as well as top quality table wines, it is very rich, concentrated, full of dark plum, blackberry and mocha flavors with a strong, spiced finish.  Typically, it runs from $60 to $80, depending on the vintage, and is worth every dollar. Savor it with friends on a special occasion.  (For a less costly alternative that aspires to the heights of QVM, and is great deal in its own right, try the Quinta do Vale Meao "Meandro", the second label of QVM and is available in PA stores as well as Total Wine for about $25.)

                                         




                        



That's it for now for your Portuguese  wine primer. I will revisit this Portugal in a later post to give you a rundown of some white wines which are perfect for summer time refreshment.  In the meantime, do yourself a favor and take a day trip to Ironbound - you're sure to enjoy it! Saude!

Tannins: What Are They and What Is Their Role in Wine?

Tannins – soft tannins, firm tannins, round tannins. What exactly are these mysterious, elusive elements you’re always reading about in wine reviews and ratings?  Simply put, tannins are chemical compounds – polyphenols, to be exact – that are found primarily in red grape skins, seeds and stems, and to a lesser extent in oak casks.  Their particular characteristics in wine vary according to the grape varietal and the vinification process.  But how are they actually “expressed” in the wine and what are we looking for when sampling a wine?  The best explanation I’ve found on this subject was posted in a weekly e-mail I receive from “The Juice” which lists wine tasting events in the area and always includes a few factoids about wines from acknowledged experts.  So here we have it:

Explaining tannins in simple terms is rather challenging since they are chemical compounds which have long been studied and analyzed by scientists. Here's my best effort...Tannins come primarily from the grapes - skins, seeds and stems - and, to a lesser degree, from wood barrels. They are associated mainly with red wines, since the juice of dark-skinned grapes is macerated with their skins (and sometimes, the stems). The juice also takes on its red coloring from the skins, with very few exceptions; in fact, tannin and color are linked. So, for this reason, white wines rarely have any detectable tannin, and roses may contain a negligible level. In terms of taste, tannins are best understood as drying, rough coating on the tongue comparable to a strong cup of tea. Not all red wines, or even the majority, impart that astringent sensation. Tannin content differs according to the grape variety and its ripeness. Moreover, the entire winemaking process is controlled to minimize what can be, for many people, an unpleasant and even bitter taste. On the other hand, the great reds - the best Cabernets, Bordeaux, Brunello, Barolo, and so on - do often contain high tannin levels. This can make them challenging to enjoy when first released. However, their tannins allow them to age for many years in bottle. With time, the tannins combine with the coloring matter and "fall out" of the wine, creating sediment. This also explains the fact that old red wines are paler than they were when first bottled, and why they are smooth and silky.

-Roger C. Bohmrich

http://www.vintrinsic.com/