Wines Off the Beaten Path: Part I

The cover story of the current issue of the Wine Spectator (Jan. 31 - Feb. 28, 2014) features columns by several of the magazine's writers highlighting their picks for wines "off the beaten path" to explore for the coming year.  I was pleased to find that many of my favorites were among those included from the 30 categories selected, although I must say that I've been touting their attributes for some years now.
http://www.winespectator.com/magazine/show/id/49457

Whereas, like most wine aficionados, I will appreciate and enjoy any fine Cabernet, Shiraz or Pinot, I find myself constantly drawn to the many grape varietals outside the mainstream that usually deserve much more attention than they normally receive from the general wine-drinking public and which I often feature in my wine tasting classes.  These lesser known and under-appreciated fruits of the vine offer sensory experiences that delight the nose and palate and extend the pleasure of the wine drinker well beyond the confines of the "noble" varietals, however exceptional they may be.  Simply put, there are just too many great wines out there on the market to get stuck in a Cab or Pinot rut.  Although it does take a little extra time and effort to seek them out, the rewards are well-worth the trouble.  And to save you some of that time and effort, I offer you the following recommendations to expand your palate and see where it takes you. (I will start off with  reds and catch up with whites on a future post.)

1.  Nerello Mascalese: Grown on the volcanic soils around the base of Mt Etna, my most recent discovery of  an off-the-beaten-path varietal was one I featured in my last class on Sicilian wines.  If you like pinot noir, you definitely want to check this one out.  It was a real crowd pleaser in my class and comes either blended or as a stand-alone varietal.  Wine Works in Cherry Hill has a good selection. Etna Rosso is the regional classification (DOC).  This one runs about $20.

      Thalia, Pietro Caciorgna, Etna Rosso 2010

Varietal: 100% Nerello Mascalese

Classification: DOC Etna Rosso

Tasting/Production Notes: Aromas run the gamut from cola to tamarind, pink peppercorn, crushed red berries; Burgundian mouthfeel; limpid, pure red-berry fruit flavors, hints of licorice, caramel, dusted with pepper; sourced from 100 year old vineyards. 13 % Alcohol

Food pairings: Squid-ink pasta (pasta al nìvuro di sìccia); pigeon breasts in red wine sauce (blancs de pigeon au rouge); roasted squab with crisped almonds; wild mushroom and eggplant filo

2.  Touriga Nacional :  This indigenous grape of Portugal is one of the star varietals in the Douro region and appears as either a blend or 100% varietal in any number of top bottlings from this rapidly rising wine region. I've already commented on several wines that feature this grape in previous posts (see Quinta de Ventozelo, Quinta do Vale Meao, Quinta do Vale Meao Meandro).  The Wine Spectator article puts a spotlight on a small producer called Wine & Soul. I haven't yet tried any of their wines but will be sure to report on them once I do.

3. Mencia: An indigenous varietal from the Bierzo region of northwest Spain, this food-friendly wine with a fruity appeal (wild berry and cherry flavors), bracing acidity and earthy herbal notes, has become one of my house favorites.  While the Mencias featured in the Wine Spectator article are priced mostly in the $15-25 range, the wine store at Wegmans in Cherry Hill offers a couple different brands of this very appealing wine for less than $10.  And for a little cachet, they are actually rated around 90 points according to Robert Parker.  In any event, it's a very good deal for an up an coming wine off the beaten path.

Alvarez de Toledo Mencia Roble Luis Varela Bierzo

Flavium Bierzo Crianza

  

4. Tannat: This varietal, which originated in the region of Madiran in southwest France, has found a new home with ideal growing conditions in Uruguay such that it is now considered the national grape of this small South American country in the shadow of its larger neighbor and wine producing powerhouse, Argentina. The Wine Spectator article only mentions the Uruguay connection in passing and recommends Tannat wines from France and California. On the other hand,  I have grown partial to the Tannat offerings from a producer in Uruguay which are available at Total Wine for significantly less than the French and California versions.  As you might suspect, the name "Tannat" is in fact related the word "tannin" which I discussed in a previous post.  You can therefore expect to get a good dose of tannins in these wines, although a fine Tannat will offer much more, especially with sufficient aeration. Floral aromas,  licorice and blackberry flavors along with earthy wood or mushroom notes are commom attributes of this dark ruby, robust wine.  Here are two suggestions from the Pisano winery:

 Pisano Tannat Rio de Los Pajaros  (about $15):Dark ruby in color; jammy wildfruit, cranberry; ripe tannins with a complex nose of wood and mushrooms.

Pisano Tannat RPF (about $19):Intense purple in color with a complex nose of ripe dark plums and spiced wood; firm tannins; robust; jammy plum, cranberry and blackberry flavors.