Saturday, December 20, 2014

V is for Verdicchio!

For the most part, I am what you may call a "seasonal" wine drinker, meaning that I tend to drink cool white or rosé wines in the summer, switching over to reds as temperatures start to dip and move into the darker days of winter.  Be that as it may, there's certainly nothing wrong with sampling a crisp, fresh and lively white from time to time during the cold, gray and dreary seasons and pair it with some tasty shellfish or sushi.  And it just so happens that a particularly delightful white varietal I sampled towards the end of the summer popped up again in a State Store tasting this past week. Indeed I had been meaning to do a post on this wine and now I have no excuse for any further procrastinating.

The 2013 Verdee Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is a 100% Verdicchio from the Marches ("le Marche", pronounced lay MAR-kay, in Italian) region and is a lovely alternative for all you Sauvignon Blanc (or Muscadet) lovers as it offers many similar characteristics (bouquet, mouthfeel, body, crispness) yet with its own particular aura from the Italian terroir.  Grown in chalky soil, fermented in stainless steel tanks for 20 days, and refined on lees for 6 months before 3 months of bottle aging, this light straw colored wine bursts with refreshing notes of citrus blossom, grapefruit and lemon zest.  These citrusy aromas are complemented on the palate by hints of pear, apple and white-fleshed fruit for a balanced and harmonious amalgamation of fruit sensations, while maintaining a crisp acidity that pairs well with shellfish.  It retails for about $12.






If this particular Verdicchio is not available or you have trouble finding it, you may try asking for the a different one which was featured in a recent tasting at the Wine and Spirits Shop on 5th street in Philadelphia:

 Garofoli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Macrina 2013

The estate is described as follows:

Winery Profile: Garofoli is one of the oldest wineries in the Marche,
dating back to 1871 when Antonio Garofoli began producing wine for the
local pilgrims coming to the famous church of Loreto. In 1901, Antonio's
son, Gioacchino, founded the Gioacchino Garofoli winery

Vineyards and Vinification: Hills are the predominant feature of the
Marches countryside. They slope down from the eastern side of the
Apennines toward the Adriatic sea. These hills are particularly wellsuited
to the cultivation of vines because they are sheltered from the
winds off the Adriatic Sea and have a warm, sunny exposure.



Thursday, October 30, 2014

Islands of the Mediterranean - Round 2

In the second wine tasting class a few days ago featuring juice from the Greek, Sardinian and Corsican islands, I made a few substitutions from the previous class which are enumerated below. They turned out to be a big hit among our group of discerning wine aficionados, and indeed, I heartily recommend them without hesitation.  The favorite white this time around seemed to be the Moschofilero and again the Cannonau for the red.  At about $15 a pop, it's hard to beat. Salute!



1.     Nasiakos Moschofilero 2013

 74422xl.jpg


Varietal: Moschofilero

Classification: Mantinia Protected Designation of Origin (eastern side of Peloponnese peninsula)

Production/Tasting Notes: Aromas of fragrant flowers, peach orchard; notes of mountain spice, lemon zest; light-bodied; crisp acidity

Food pairings: shell fish; seafood; summer salads; also as an aperitif

12.5 % Alcohol

2.     Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko 2013

 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko - Athiri, Santorini, Greece  Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko - Athiri, Santorini, Greece


Varietals: Assyrtiko 75%; Athiri 25%

Classification:  Santorini Protected Designation of Origin

Production/Tasting Notes: Two ancient varietals cultivated on volcanic soils from vineyards originally planted 3,000 years ago; stainless steel tank fermentation; nose of ripe citrus fruit with earthy mineral undertones; refreshing acidity

Food pairings: Grilled fish or seafood; salads; white meat; Greek meze

13.3 % Alcohol



4. Tselepos Classic Nemea Agiorgitiko 2011

                     
Tselepos 2011 Driopi Classic Agiorgitiko (Nemea)

                     
                Varietal: Agiorgitiko 100%

Region: Nemea Protected Designation of Origin (Peloponnese)

Production/Tasting Notes:: Soft, rounded and fruity on the palate; aromas of blackberries, and forest fruits; medium-bodied

Food pairings:  Roasted or grilled lamb; meats; full-flavored cheeses 
                     
                  Alcohol 13.5 %

Friday, October 17, 2014

Wine Tasting - Islands of the Mediterranean

The most renowned and prestigious wine-growing regions in Europe are to be found on the mainland or continental provinces, such as Bordeaux in France, Piedmont in Italy, and Rioja in Spain. However, there are many fine wines produced off-shore on islands of these and other countries that offer the oenophile untold delights at moderate price points with just a little extra searching around in wine shops. This class focuses on such wines that often blend indigenous island grape varietals with some of the usual suspects (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, etc.) to produce unique taste and aroma sensations unlike those found in most mainstream juices. The tasting list includes wines from Greek islands such as Santorini as well as from Corsica and Sardinia. This virtual tour of the Mediterranean leads us to sample fruit of the vine not only off the beaten track, but even beyond the shoreline.

Our wine tasting this past Tuesday, October 14, included the following wines:

  1. Lyrarakis Assyrtiko 2013
Assyrtiko-large


Varietal: Assyrtiko

Classification: Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP) Crete

Production/Tasting Notes: Sourced from high altitude villages of Eastern Crete; fermented in stainless steel; slow fermentation for 20 days; fruity with notes of apple, wild herbs of the region, lemon flowers; rich, light body, with mineral undertones

Food pairings: Grilled fish or seafood; salads; white meat

13 % Alcohol
  1. Notios White (Gaia Wines) 2012
                   


Varietals: Moschofilero 50%; Roditis 50%

Classification: IGP Peloponnisos (Nemea)

Production/Tasting Notes: Moschofilero (pink-skinned) from the Arcadian Plateau; Roditis (also pink-skinned) from the Korinthian slopes; crisp acidity; fruity (pear, apple); citrusy backbone; notes of melon; hint of minerality; elegant finish

Food pairings: seafood, salads; sushi; shellfish; appetizers; white meat

12 % Alcohol

  1. Costamolino, Vermentino di Sardegna, Argiolas 2013
                         bottleshot  


Varietals: Vermentino 95%; other Sardinian varietals 5%

Classification/Region: Vermentino di Sardegna Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC)

Production/Tasting Notes: Stainless steel vinification; underwent malolactic fermentation; delicate aromas of citrus and tree fruit with undertones of tropical fruit and honey; zesty acidity on the palate

Food pairings: pasta primavera; shrimp cocktail; vegetable terrine
13.5 % Alcohol

  1. Costera Cannonau di Sardegna Argiolas 2011
                     label

Varietal: Cannonau 90%; Carignano 5%; Bovale Sardo 5%

Classification: Cannonau di Sardegna DOC

Production/Tasting Notes: Maturation in both French barriques (8 months) and cement vats (5 months); Ruby-red in color, aromas of ripe black cherries and tree fruit with undertones of pepper and licorice; notes of dried berries, rosemary; thyme; on the palate, a full body and velvety tannin; clean finish (92 points, James Suckling)
               
                  Food pairing: roasted beef, lamb cooked with rosemary, filet mignon, and rustic cheeses.

14 % Alcohol

  1. E Prove” Corse Calvi, Domaine Maestracci 2010


Varietals: Niellucciu 35%; Grenache 35%; Sciacarellu 15%; Syrah 15%

Classification: Appellation Corse Calvi Contrôlée

Production/Tasting Notes: Aged one year in stainless steel, followed by one year in French oak barrels; aromas of red fruit, violets, spice, licorice & toast; full-bodied with silky smooth tannins on the palate; flavors of blackberry, blueberry and cherry in brandy; slight menthol aromas;

Food pairings: hearty Mediterranean stews; ratatouille; strong cheeses

13.5% Alcohol

  1. Nasiakos Agiorgitiko 2012

Varietals: Agiorgitiko

Region: Arcadia, Peloponnisos

Production/Tasting Notes:: Soft, rounded and fruity on the palate; aromas of blackberries, and forest fruits;

Food pairings: Roasted or grilled lamb, meats; full-flavored cheeses

12.5 % Alcohol

_______________________________________________________________

An unscientific survey of the class participants showed a preference for the Assyrtiko and the Vermentino for the whites, and the Cannonau and Corsican blend for the reds. Your results may vary - Cheers!

Factoids about Greek and Mediterranean Wines

  • Agiorgitiko, also known as St. George, is Greece's most famous red variety.
  • Grown on the hills of Nemea for over 2,500 years, reds from this area are sometimes known as the “blood of Hercules” giving him the strength to slay the Lion of Nemea.
  • Roditis stems from the Greek word “rodon” meaning rose.
  • Legend has it that Caesar wooed Cleopatra with the white wines of Patras

Other Greek Grape Varietals

Whites

SAVATIANO – Greece's most widely planted white varietal and the base for the popular Retsina wine which is infused with pine resin; the best Retsinas are produced from Savatiano grown in Attica

VILANA – Native to the island of Crete, produces modestly priced refreshing white wines with green-apple flavors.


Reds

LIMNIO – Grown on the Aegean island of Limnos and throughout northern Greece; produces full-bodied wines with high alcohol content; often blended with merlot and cabernet sauvignon

MAVRODAPHNE – Meaning “black laurel”, this grape flourishes in Patros and is blended with Korinthiaki to produce dessert wines


XINOMAVRO (“acid black”) - Dominate northern Greek red varietal; produces full-bodied reds with intense fruit flavors and can be aged for many years.

Sunday, September 14, 2014

Make Your Own Wine at the Cherry Hill Wine Room!

For all you wine aficionados out there who would like to take the next step, so to speak, in learning about wine and how it's made, there's nothing better (or more fun!) than hands-on experience, and you can do just that here in the greater Philadelphia region.  It's one thing to do a winery tour and look at barrels aging, listening to a guide blather on about processes or terminology you may or may not understand, but it's a whole other proposition to take part in the process, the results of which you have a very personal stake in.

Last fall, a group of wine-loving friends and I signed up at the Cherry Hill Wine Room to try our hand at wine-making (with a little help from the winemaster Michael) and learn about the various steps that go into producing that most mysterious and intriguing libation. Click on the link below for all the details.

http://www.thewineroom.com/

There are several different options with respect to the quantity and selections you'd like to make and purchase, but typically, most customers either band together to make a barrel of a specific varietal or blend, or, you can sign up to select wines available from the "Wine Club" list.  Our group chose the latter so that we could purchase a "variety" pack at the end of the process.  The difference is that with a single barrel you have specific control over how you want to vinify the grapes so that you can tailor it to your particular taste. For the "Wine Club" selections, you simply take part in the various steps of a making a range of wines and get to choose from the list for a mix & match case.

The grapes harvested from the fall production come from northern California regions (shipped in chilled truckloads) while the spring harvest originates in Chile.  The Wine Room also does open tastings (including a nice spread of hors d'oeuvres) several times a year where you can sample their wines before signing up.  This is a great opportunity to see their set-up and decide what option is best for you.  I was sufficiently impressed the first time I went to a tasting there and proceeded to round up a group of friends to take the plunge.

The processes you will observe and take part in include destemming and crushing the grapes, pressing the must and pumping it into barrels, racking and finally, filling, corking, capping and labeling the wine.  Be sure to bring your own snacks and hors d'oeuvres when you do the actual wine making as there is always plenty of opened bottles available from previous vintages to slake your thirst after such demanding labor!

(I had some technical problems uploading my video of the bottling and labeling process, but here's a feature from the local news a few years ago showing some of the processes, followed by some of my pictures,)


                                           

Presenting the corks to be used to bottle the wine.

Filling the bottles.

Removing the bottle after filling,

Labeling the bottle.

Labeling.

Labeling.

Corking the bottle.

Corking.




Sunday, August 31, 2014

Arinto Who?

As many of you know, I am a tireless booster for the wines of Portugal which offers some of the best values  in the world, and even their high end wines are a fabulous bargain compared to what you will pay for similar quality wines from California, France and Italy.  What I especially like is that not only do they offer great values, they also present opportunities to sample varietals that you will not encounter elsewhere as they are indigenous grapes that are not found or cultivated outside of Portugal.

One of these varietals is a white grape that I believe will appeal to all you Sauvignon Blanc aficionados out there, and it's called "Arinto".  It can be found in either single varietal issues or blends with other native grapes.  Most recently, I sampled a 100% Arinto (2012) from the Quinta da Romeira estate, produced in the Bucelas (DOC) region.  This is an absolutely delightful wine, bursting with citrus aromas (orange and lime), backed up with tropical and mineral undertones. It has a fresh, crisp acidity along with a powerful intensity that lingers well on the mouth. Though somewhat similar in profile to Sauvignon Blanc, it does not carry any of the grassy or boxwood ("cat pee", in the vernacular) notes. At 12.5% alcohol, it's beautiful summertime refresher that will not knock you down.  It's a natural complement to fish, seafood and grilled vegetables.




This particular bottle from the Lisbon Wine shop in Newark retails for about $9 (an exceptional bargain), but you should be able to find Quinta da Romeira wines or other estate wines featuring Arinto or Arinto blends in the tri-state area. Do yourself a favor and don't pass up on this wine if you come across it. You may find yourself another favorite, like I did. Saude!








Monday, August 18, 2014

Bullish on Muscadet?... Mais Oui!

This post features another often maligned grape/wine that deserves greater attention these days, especially in light of a new generation of vintners and viticulturists who are, in a sense, taking back the reputation, quality and potential of a very regional varietal and promoting its long lost lustre by employing organic and biodynamic wine-growing methods, reducing production and allowing the soil composition to bring out the special qualities of the wine.  We're talking about Muscadet (aka Melon de Bourgogne), that white wine from the western edge of the Loire River Valley, bordering the Atlantic coast that imbues the wine with the minerally, sea-spray and grassy notes that make it such a natural accompaniment to oysters especially and shell-fish in general.

Once again, I'm pleased to find myself ahead of the curve, as it were, (it was a highlight of my Loire wine tasting class in March - see my post of April 7) in touting an under appreciated and misunderstood wine, and invite you to read more about the history of this varietal and the new generation of producers in Eric Asimov's most recent article in the New York Times:

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/08/20/dining/muscadet-a-great-value-isnt-getting-its-due.html?hpw&rref=dining&action=click&pgtype=Homepage&version=HpHedThumbWell&module=well-region&region=bottom-well&WT.nav=bottom-well 
 






For those of you who attended my Loire wine class and were taken with this delightfully refreshing and very modestly priced wine, I encourage you to seek out the other Muscadets recommended in the article and enjoy with a selection from the raw bar - a perfect way to celebrate the fine, late summer weather we're experiencing. A votre santé!

Top Muscadet Producers
Here are some of the best producers of Muscadet available in the United States.
ANDRÉ-MICHEL BRÉGEON Rich, substantial, precise, textured wines. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.)
CHÉREAU-CARRÉ A good range of wines, particularly those labeled Comte Leloup du Château de Chasseloir. (De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, N.C.)
DOMAINE DE L’ÉCU Excellent Muscadet cuvées, along with some experimental whites and reds. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)
JO LANDRON/DOMAINE DE La LOUVETRIE Wines of great purity and expression. (Martin Scott Wines, Lake Success, N.Y.)
DOMAINE PIERRE LUNEAU-PAPIN Wide range of fine wines, particularly L d’Or and Terre de Pierre. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York)
MARC OLLIVIER/DOMAINE DE LA PÉPIÈRE Exceptional wines, especially the structured Clos des Briords and the vivid Clisson. (Louis/Dressner Selections)

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Summertime, and the Sauvignon Blanc is flowing!

On a recent cloudy, coolish and calm Saturday evening on a Southwest Germantown backyard porch a group of friends - assorted wine aficionados, geeks and connoisseurs - gathered together to enjoy each other's company and a sample a few wines ... well, make that a lot of wines! All together the count totaled 19, and nary a sip remained at the end of the confabulation.  Provenances were worldwide - from New Zealand to California to France. It was an opportunity to appreciate the beautiful subtleties of this noble grape varietal and remark on the difference that terroir and winemaker bring to their cuvées.



In no particular order, here is the list of wines:

1. Domaine de la Potine, Touraine AOC 2013 (Fleet Street)

2. Le Bouc, Touraine AOC 2013 (Fleet Street)

3. Lassalle, Pays d'Oc IGP 2013

4. Director's Cut, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, (Francis Ford Coppola) 2012

5. Natura, Valle de Casablanca, Chile 2013

6. Whitehaven, Marlborough, New Zealand 2013

7. Clotilde Davenne, Saint-Bris AOC 2010

8. Fire Road, Marlborough, New Zealand 2013

9. Cuvaison, Solitaire Sauvignon Blanc, Carneros, Napa Valley 2012

10. Joel Gott, Napa Valley 2013

11. Nobilo, Marlborough, New Zealand 2013

12. Siblings (Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon) , Margaret River,  Australia, Leeuwine Estate,  2012

13. Oberon, Michael Mondavi, Napa Valley 2013

14. Villa Maria (Private Bin), Marlborough, New Zealand 2012

15. Martin Ray, Russian River Valley 2013

16. Courtney Benham, Napa Valley 2013

17. Frisson, Russian River Valley 2011

18. Chalk Hill, Sonoma 2011

19. Meridian, Napa Valley 2011

Numberwise, Marlborough, Sonoma  and Napa were all represented equally at 4 bottles a piece, perhaps reflecting the prominence of these regions in the market for availability and quality.  (There was one outlier that escaped the thirsty wine tasters: an Aveleda Vinho Verde from Portugal, but we'll try to catch that next time, Pedro!  And if your eyes are really sharp, you'll notice that someone (I'm looking at you, Ian!) sneaked in a bottle of suds, Freigeist Pimock Rhineland Weize - top photo).




  




As this was not a "formal" tasting, I will dispense with the tasting notes, except to say that among the crowd's favorites were the Saint-Bris, the Fire Road, the Chalk Hill (see my blog post of June 19), the Joel Gott (see my blog post of January 4 ) and the Domaine de la Potine. 

Checking that wine app!




The rain held off so guests could chill in the backyard without cover.

That's a Joel Gott Chris is showcasing.

Pedro' s (left)
Pastéis de Bacalhau (Salt Cod Balls/Fritters) were a big hit! See below for recipe.
Wine expert par excellence Max and his wife Vanessa make a toast for the photographer.


Discussing the finer points of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc!

Night descends on the happy crowd.
Many thanks to the guests for all the great wine selections and delicious food!  Looking forward to meeting up with you at the next wine event.

Pastéis de Bacalhau (Salt Cod Balls/Fritters)

1/2 pound of dried salt cod (baccalà, in Italian - ideally not the already skinned and deboned type, but that will do if the real stuff is hard to find)
2 medium Russet or Eastern potatoes, peeled and quartered
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 large clove of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2-3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1-2 eggs, separated
Quarter cup (approx.) of all-purpose flour (optional)
dash of cayenne pepper (optional)
freshly ground black pepper (to taste)
vegetable oil for deep frying

Soak the salt cod for about 24 hours in several changes of cold water. (Put it in the fridge overnight.) Drain and rinse well.

Place cod in a saucepan, add enough cold water to cover, bring to a boil, and then gently simmer over moderate heat for 15 to 20 minutes (NB: some foam/scum will be a normal and innocuous side-effect of boiling the cod; skim it, as you go along, if you feel the need to go through the trouble).

Meanwhile, boil the potatoes in enough water to cover for about 20 minutes (until soft); drain well and set aside.

When the cod is tender, drain well and let cool.  Carefully remove all the bones and skin from the cod. Flake/break up the cod with a fork and/or fingers (while continuing to be on the lookout out any remaining bones).  Set aside.

(Tip: you can boil the cod and potatoes together, at the same time, if you like; since they take roughly the same time to cook.)

In a small heavy skillet set over moderate low heat, gently sauté the onion and garlic in the olive oil for about 5 minutes (until limp, not browned).

Mash the potatoes, then mix in the reserved minced cod, onion mixture, parsley, cayenne, and black pepper.  Before adding the eggs, check if the mixture needs some extra salt (it may do so!), then stir in the egg yolk(s, one at a time) and mix well.  Whisk the egg white(s) to soft peaks, then fold into the cod mixture.

Heat the vegetable oil in a good-sized frying pan (or deep fryer) over a moderate high heat.

Using two soup spoons (one in each hand, held firmly), shape a spoonful at a time of the cod mixture into 1-to-1.5 inch thick balls (the shape of American footballs or Rugby balls!).  Then, as soon as the oil is hot enough (i.e. has reached about 370 degrees F), gently plop each ball in and fry in batches (about 4 at a time) until golden brown (1 to 2 minutes each).  You might need to place the shaped balls on a floured surface until you’re ready to place them in the oil. Raise and lower the burner heat/flame as needed to keep the temperature of the oil as near to 370 F as possible.

As the balls brown, lift out with a slotted spoon to drain over several thickness of paper towels.

The trick is to have the oil temperature just right – too low and the balls start to break apart (which will mess up your oil!); too high and the outsides cook before the insides…  I’ve found adding a little sifted flour to the mixture helps hold the mixture together a bit better.  Trial and error…

Garnish with parsley, lemon wedges, and serve with a nice, cool, crisp vinho verde (or other libation of choice)!