Sunday, August 31, 2014

Arinto Who?

As many of you know, I am a tireless booster for the wines of Portugal which offers some of the best values  in the world, and even their high end wines are a fabulous bargain compared to what you will pay for similar quality wines from California, France and Italy.  What I especially like is that not only do they offer great values, they also present opportunities to sample varietals that you will not encounter elsewhere as they are indigenous grapes that are not found or cultivated outside of Portugal.

One of these varietals is a white grape that I believe will appeal to all you Sauvignon Blanc aficionados out there, and it's called "Arinto".  It can be found in either single varietal issues or blends with other native grapes.  Most recently, I sampled a 100% Arinto (2012) from the Quinta da Romeira estate, produced in the Bucelas (DOC) region.  This is an absolutely delightful wine, bursting with citrus aromas (orange and lime), backed up with tropical and mineral undertones. It has a fresh, crisp acidity along with a powerful intensity that lingers well on the mouth. Though somewhat similar in profile to Sauvignon Blanc, it does not carry any of the grassy or boxwood ("cat pee", in the vernacular) notes. At 12.5% alcohol, it's beautiful summertime refresher that will not knock you down.  It's a natural complement to fish, seafood and grilled vegetables.




This particular bottle from the Lisbon Wine shop in Newark retails for about $9 (an exceptional bargain), but you should be able to find Quinta da Romeira wines or other estate wines featuring Arinto or Arinto blends in the tri-state area. Do yourself a favor and don't pass up on this wine if you come across it. You may find yourself another favorite, like I did. Saude!








Monday, August 18, 2014

Bullish on Muscadet?... Mais Oui!

This post features another often maligned grape/wine that deserves greater attention these days, especially in light of a new generation of vintners and viticulturists who are, in a sense, taking back the reputation, quality and potential of a very regional varietal and promoting its long lost lustre by employing organic and biodynamic wine-growing methods, reducing production and allowing the soil composition to bring out the special qualities of the wine.  We're talking about Muscadet (aka Melon de Bourgogne), that white wine from the western edge of the Loire River Valley, bordering the Atlantic coast that imbues the wine with the minerally, sea-spray and grassy notes that make it such a natural accompaniment to oysters especially and shell-fish in general.

Once again, I'm pleased to find myself ahead of the curve, as it were, (it was a highlight of my Loire wine tasting class in March - see my post of April 7) in touting an under appreciated and misunderstood wine, and invite you to read more about the history of this varietal and the new generation of producers in Eric Asimov's most recent article in the New York Times:

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/08/20/dining/muscadet-a-great-value-isnt-getting-its-due.html?hpw&rref=dining&action=click&pgtype=Homepage&version=HpHedThumbWell&module=well-region&region=bottom-well&WT.nav=bottom-well 
 






For those of you who attended my Loire wine class and were taken with this delightfully refreshing and very modestly priced wine, I encourage you to seek out the other Muscadets recommended in the article and enjoy with a selection from the raw bar - a perfect way to celebrate the fine, late summer weather we're experiencing. A votre santé!

Top Muscadet Producers
Here are some of the best producers of Muscadet available in the United States.
ANDRÉ-MICHEL BRÉGEON Rich, substantial, precise, textured wines. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.)
CHÉREAU-CARRÉ A good range of wines, particularly those labeled Comte Leloup du Château de Chasseloir. (De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, N.C.)
DOMAINE DE L’ÉCU Excellent Muscadet cuvées, along with some experimental whites and reds. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)
JO LANDRON/DOMAINE DE La LOUVETRIE Wines of great purity and expression. (Martin Scott Wines, Lake Success, N.Y.)
DOMAINE PIERRE LUNEAU-PAPIN Wide range of fine wines, particularly L d’Or and Terre de Pierre. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York)
MARC OLLIVIER/DOMAINE DE LA PÉPIÈRE Exceptional wines, especially the structured Clos des Briords and the vivid Clisson. (Louis/Dressner Selections)

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Summertime, and the Sauvignon Blanc is flowing!

On a recent cloudy, coolish and calm Saturday evening on a Southwest Germantown backyard porch a group of friends - assorted wine aficionados, geeks and connoisseurs - gathered together to enjoy each other's company and a sample a few wines ... well, make that a lot of wines! All together the count totaled 19, and nary a sip remained at the end of the confabulation.  Provenances were worldwide - from New Zealand to California to France. It was an opportunity to appreciate the beautiful subtleties of this noble grape varietal and remark on the difference that terroir and winemaker bring to their cuvées.



In no particular order, here is the list of wines:

1. Domaine de la Potine, Touraine AOC 2013 (Fleet Street)

2. Le Bouc, Touraine AOC 2013 (Fleet Street)

3. Lassalle, Pays d'Oc IGP 2013

4. Director's Cut, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, (Francis Ford Coppola) 2012

5. Natura, Valle de Casablanca, Chile 2013

6. Whitehaven, Marlborough, New Zealand 2013

7. Clotilde Davenne, Saint-Bris AOC 2010

8. Fire Road, Marlborough, New Zealand 2013

9. Cuvaison, Solitaire Sauvignon Blanc, Carneros, Napa Valley 2012

10. Joel Gott, Napa Valley 2013

11. Nobilo, Marlborough, New Zealand 2013

12. Siblings (Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon) , Margaret River,  Australia, Leeuwine Estate,  2012

13. Oberon, Michael Mondavi, Napa Valley 2013

14. Villa Maria (Private Bin), Marlborough, New Zealand 2012

15. Martin Ray, Russian River Valley 2013

16. Courtney Benham, Napa Valley 2013

17. Frisson, Russian River Valley 2011

18. Chalk Hill, Sonoma 2011

19. Meridian, Napa Valley 2011

Numberwise, Marlborough, Sonoma  and Napa were all represented equally at 4 bottles a piece, perhaps reflecting the prominence of these regions in the market for availability and quality.  (There was one outlier that escaped the thirsty wine tasters: an Aveleda Vinho Verde from Portugal, but we'll try to catch that next time, Pedro!  And if your eyes are really sharp, you'll notice that someone (I'm looking at you, Ian!) sneaked in a bottle of suds, Freigeist Pimock Rhineland Weize - top photo).




  




As this was not a "formal" tasting, I will dispense with the tasting notes, except to say that among the crowd's favorites were the Saint-Bris, the Fire Road, the Chalk Hill (see my blog post of June 19), the Joel Gott (see my blog post of January 4 ) and the Domaine de la Potine. 

Checking that wine app!




The rain held off so guests could chill in the backyard without cover.

That's a Joel Gott Chris is showcasing.

Pedro' s (left)
Pastéis de Bacalhau (Salt Cod Balls/Fritters) were a big hit! See below for recipe.
Wine expert par excellence Max and his wife Vanessa make a toast for the photographer.


Discussing the finer points of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc!

Night descends on the happy crowd.
Many thanks to the guests for all the great wine selections and delicious food!  Looking forward to meeting up with you at the next wine event.

Pastéis de Bacalhau (Salt Cod Balls/Fritters)

1/2 pound of dried salt cod (baccalà, in Italian - ideally not the already skinned and deboned type, but that will do if the real stuff is hard to find)
2 medium Russet or Eastern potatoes, peeled and quartered
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 large clove of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2-3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1-2 eggs, separated
Quarter cup (approx.) of all-purpose flour (optional)
dash of cayenne pepper (optional)
freshly ground black pepper (to taste)
vegetable oil for deep frying

Soak the salt cod for about 24 hours in several changes of cold water. (Put it in the fridge overnight.) Drain and rinse well.

Place cod in a saucepan, add enough cold water to cover, bring to a boil, and then gently simmer over moderate heat for 15 to 20 minutes (NB: some foam/scum will be a normal and innocuous side-effect of boiling the cod; skim it, as you go along, if you feel the need to go through the trouble).

Meanwhile, boil the potatoes in enough water to cover for about 20 minutes (until soft); drain well and set aside.

When the cod is tender, drain well and let cool.  Carefully remove all the bones and skin from the cod. Flake/break up the cod with a fork and/or fingers (while continuing to be on the lookout out any remaining bones).  Set aside.

(Tip: you can boil the cod and potatoes together, at the same time, if you like; since they take roughly the same time to cook.)

In a small heavy skillet set over moderate low heat, gently sauté the onion and garlic in the olive oil for about 5 minutes (until limp, not browned).

Mash the potatoes, then mix in the reserved minced cod, onion mixture, parsley, cayenne, and black pepper.  Before adding the eggs, check if the mixture needs some extra salt (it may do so!), then stir in the egg yolk(s, one at a time) and mix well.  Whisk the egg white(s) to soft peaks, then fold into the cod mixture.

Heat the vegetable oil in a good-sized frying pan (or deep fryer) over a moderate high heat.

Using two soup spoons (one in each hand, held firmly), shape a spoonful at a time of the cod mixture into 1-to-1.5 inch thick balls (the shape of American footballs or Rugby balls!).  Then, as soon as the oil is hot enough (i.e. has reached about 370 degrees F), gently plop each ball in and fry in batches (about 4 at a time) until golden brown (1 to 2 minutes each).  You might need to place the shaped balls on a floured surface until you’re ready to place them in the oil. Raise and lower the burner heat/flame as needed to keep the temperature of the oil as near to 370 F as possible.

As the balls brown, lift out with a slotted spoon to drain over several thickness of paper towels.

The trick is to have the oil temperature just right – too low and the balls start to break apart (which will mess up your oil!); too high and the outsides cook before the insides…  I’ve found adding a little sifted flour to the mixture helps hold the mixture together a bit better.  Trial and error…

Garnish with parsley, lemon wedges, and serve with a nice, cool, crisp vinho verde (or other libation of choice)!




Friday, July 4, 2014

Rosés: A Postscript

Demonstrating once again my "ahead-of-the-curve" disposition with regard to rosés, I was pleased to see these wines undergo the New York Times taste test a few weeks ago.  To be more precise, the panel sampled only California rosés, and whereas the approach I took in my last few classes was very much international, the upshot is that there is a wide variety of very interesting and eminently quaffable pink wines out there, so if you haven't yet taken advantage of the selection out there, get thee to a wine shop soon - before the summer and the supply run out!

Although I haven't (yet) tasted any of the wines featured in the report by Mr. Asimov and his tasting buddies, I was immediately drawn to the Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Rosé.  Those of you who took my class on Central Coast California wines a few years back may recall my unguarded enthusiasm for the Tablas Creek line of  products.  This one will definitely be on my shopping list for my next run to Total Wine which typically carries their wines.

You will find tasting notes of the one California rosé (a grenache from Sonoma) we sampled in my class on my blog post of May 24.  In the meantime, I invite you to read the following piece by Mr. Asimov on California rosés and seek out any of his panel's recommendations.

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/06/25/dining/tasting-california-roses.html

Thursday, June 19, 2014

Sauvignon Blanc: Part Deux - the Good, the Bad and the Really Good!

In my first post this year with particular wine recommendations (see January 4), I featured three very fine Sauvignon Blancs (SBs) at different price points, depending on the size your wallet or purse: Meridian, Joel Gott, and Cloudy Bay.  There are literally hundreds of SBs available in the marketplaces these days from around the world - New Zealand, Chile, California, France, Italy and so on -,  so the question is how do you choose and how do you know whether a particular wine will appeal to your palate.  In many cases it comes down to trial and error - more on my own error in just a moment - but one of my goals in this blog is to inform and make suggestions or recommendations so that you'll be less likely to spend (waste) your hard-earned dollar on a mediocre or even bad wine.

With this in mind, I continue my SB exploration and offer up some of my recent tastings of this noble varietal in all its glory (and occasional disappointments).

Let's start off with the "really good"!

Chalk Hill Sauvignon Blanc Estate 2011

From the very first whiff of this wine's bouquet, I could tell I was in for something exceptional.  Indeed, I can categorically state that this is one of the finest SBs I've had the pleasure of indulging in.  It's actually a blend of 3 SB grapes: 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 7% Sauvigon Gris, and 3% Sauvignon Musque.

The aroma is pungent with the typical citrusy, grapefruit notes, but goes well beyond that with all sorts of fruit sensations - pear, pineapple, lychee, quince - as well as floral and herbal scents. The palate then opens up with orchard fruit, spicy citrus and maybe a touch of mango.  This is a lush, elegant, full-bodied SB which is not surprising given that it's been aged in French oak for 10 months (which may add some vanilla notes as well) and has undergone regular batonnâge (stirring the lees). The finish is long, powerful and persistent, and at 14.8% alcohol (the highest octane SB I've come across), this potent wine is one that you definitely want to pair with food, in particular a meaty, fleshy, full-flavored fish (halibut, mahi- mahi, sea bass) or Asian fish preparations.  Its complexity, potency and full-flavored profile will enhance greatly your dining experience.

The best news is that it is currently available at PA wine store as a Chairman's Select for half its suggested retail price - $15.99. Check online for availability in your area (code 33257) and grab some fast!

www.finewineandgoodspirits.com/

http://www.chalkhill.com/





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Now let's move onto the bottom of the barrel, so to speak, where for the first time I will invoke my CAUTION: BAD WINE alert.  Although I may be overstating the case, there's no doubt that the following wine was the most disappointing I've experienced in many, many months.  The label was attractive and appealing, designed by an artist specially recruited by the winery, and the tasting notes on the shelf label led me to believe it would be an interesting, good quality SB.  At about $15 and hailing from Napa, how could I go wrong?  Well, think again.

The aroma, a little fruity and citrusy, was pleasant enough, although the color left much to be desired - so pale and indistinct it reminded me of slightly dirty dish water.  My first sip was such a let-down, I was almost ready to dump it down the drain right then and there (which I eventually did after a few glasses): sweet, bland, insipid, totally lacking in any of the crisp acidity usually associated with SBs and almost devoid of any finish.  Indeed, after quaffing sufficient quantity to confirm my initial impression with my meal, I was left with a dull buzz and none of the delightful lingering sensations one equates with a fine wine and good food.

Now perhaps some will disagree with my assessment - indeed, it received a fair to good rating in some wine publications - but there are so many fine SBs out there, that it's not worth taking the chance. Buyer Beware!
  
2012 Mason Sauvignon Blanc (Caution: Bad Wine!)



2012 Mason Sauvignon Blanc

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Whereas the Chalk Hill SB is a very lush, elegant, full-bodied wine which reflects a tasting profile tending towards the Chardonnay mode, the Justin Sauvignon Blanc, originating from Paso Robles along the Central Coast in California is classic New World style SB, featuring grapefruit and green apple aromas and that distinctive crisp acidity which makes the mouth pucker with delight. Fermented in 100% stainless steel tanks, It is a well-structured wine with mineral undertones that play against the array of fruit sensations such as white peach, lemon and lime with hints of lemongrass as well.  This is a great wine to enjoy nicely chilled in the warm summer months either with seafood - calamari, shrimp and other shell fish - or on its own as an aperitif to whet the appetite.  It's also rather strong in alcohol (14.5%), but I have to say that I really didn't notice any debilitating effects as I sampled a few glasses with a seafood salad.  It's very well-balanced in terms of fruit-acidity-alcohol and offers pure drinking pleasure to the SB lover.  Retailing at about $13, you'd be hard pressed to find a more delightful SB at this price point.  (By the way, Justin makes a range of mid to high level reds that are worth checking out and that I plan to write about in a future post.)

http://www.justinwine.com/

Justin Sauvignon Blanc 2012











Friday, June 6, 2014

Rosé Wine Tasting: Round 2

Our second rosé wine tasting took place this past Tuesday, June 3rd, and although the skies looked ominous throughout the day - and indeed there were some scattered showers in the area, including at the Unitarian Church - in the end, the weather gods cooperated and the skies cleared in time to set up the tasting "en plein air".  Despite some damp ground and a noticeably humid atmosphere, it was a pleasant evening to sip cool rosés in a bucolic setting.

The line-up this time included three different rosés  (see my tasting notes for these below) in exchange for the Sonoma Grenache, the Aldesheim Pinot Noir  and the Israeli Barbera that we sampled at the May 20th tasting.  The evening started off with three Provencal rosés, including the 2013 Miraval from the Jolie-Pitt estate, which just happened to be the cover story of the latest issue of the Wine Spectator:



http://www.winespectator.com/issue/show/date/2014-06-30

 Despite the frisson of imbibing a "movie-star wine," the general consensus was that it fell short of expectations, and the Whispering Angel  from  Chateau D'Esclans was again the clear favorite, followed by Jean-Luc Colombo's Cape Bleue whose quality/price ratio is hard to beat (about $13 a bottle).  Still, there's no doubt the Miraval is a good quality wine at a reasonable price - the suggested retail price is $30 but the wine is widely available in NJ and PA for about $23. For the record, I did sample the 2012 vintage last year and thought that this debut rosé hit the mark in terms of overall appeal - bouquet, structure, fruit and minerality, whereas the 2013 vintage didn't quite measure up.

The 100% Garnacha  rosé from Spain - Las Rocas de San Alejandro - was a winner for all the Garnacha/Grenache aficionados who might want something lighter and "chillable" for the summer.

And lastly, we sampled another 100% varietal - this one being a Vermentino Nero from the Liguria region in Italy.  Much darker in color than the typical Provencal rosé, the Mea Rosa is definitely on the fruitier side, from the lush aromatic bouquet down to the extended finish.

More and more red grape varietals are being fashioned into rosés, so that if there's particular red you're fond of, chances are you'll find it in a rosé: for example, even stalwart grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec are now available as rosés.  The summer is just beginning, so start sipping!


Miraval 2013

                                              
Chateau Miraval Cotes de Provence Rose, Provence, France

                  Varietals: Cinsault, Grenache, Rolle (Vermentino), Syrah

                  Classification: Appellation Côtes de Provence Contrôlée

                  Production/Tasting Notes: “Mis en bouteille par Jolie-Pitt & Perrin” (yes,                                Angelina & Brad); vinified in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats (95%) and      barrels  (5%); pale pink in color; pleasant floral nose of white flowers, soft roses, crushed strawberries and ripe cherries; round and soft on the palate; delicate structure that deepens on the palate; fresh summer red fruit:strawberries, wild raspberries, red currant; hint of lime;mineral notes with a slight saltiness and fresh acidity; savory herbal edge (91 points, Decanter; 89 points, Wine Spectator)

                   13% alcohol                             

 Las Rocas de San Alejandro 2013

                                  


Varietals: 100% Garnacha

Classification: Denominacion de Origen (DOC) Calatayud (Spain)

Production/Tasting Notes: From high altitude vineyards (3500 feet); fruit forward with aromas of raspberries and strawberries; bright red fruit flavors mingled with a hint of spice;full-bodied; long, fruity finish

Food pairings: Light, savory tapas
                
                  13.5 % Alcohol



“Mea Rosa” Rosato 2013  
                                                        
Region: Liguria de Levante (Ortonovo), Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT)

Varietal: 100% Vermentino Nero (an ancient autochthonous vine re-discovered and re-proposed after a long period of research and study by Paolo Bosoni and the vine experts)

Production/Tasting Notes: 36 hours cold maceration on the skins, fermentation at controlled temperature and refining in stainless steel vats; vivid deep pink color; bouquet of red fruit, wild strawberries with hint of spice; red fruit on the palate with mineral undertones

Food pairingsAntipasti; seafood dishes; mildly spicy dishes; also as an aperitif

12.5% Alcohol