This post features another often maligned grape/wine that deserves greater attention these days, especially in light of a new generation of vintners and viticulturists who are, in a sense, taking back the reputation, quality and potential of a very regional varietal and promoting its long lost lustre by employing organic and biodynamic wine-growing methods, reducing production and allowing the soil composition to bring out the special qualities of the wine. We're talking about Muscadet (aka Melon de Bourgogne), that white wine from the western edge of the Loire River Valley, bordering the Atlantic coast that imbues the wine with the minerally, sea-spray and grassy notes that make it such a natural accompaniment to oysters especially and shell-fish in general.
Once again, I'm pleased to find myself ahead of the curve, as it were, (it was a highlight of my Loire wine tasting class in March - see my post of April 7) in touting an under appreciated and misunderstood wine, and invite you to read more about the history of this varietal and the new generation of producers in Eric Asimov's most recent article in the New York Times:
http://www.nytimes.com/2014/08/20/dining/muscadet-a-great-value-isnt-getting-its-due.html?hpw&rref=dining&action=click&pgtype=Homepage&version=HpHedThumbWell&module=well-region®ion=bottom-well&WT.nav=bottom-well
For those of you who attended my Loire wine class and were taken with this delightfully refreshing and very modestly priced wine, I encourage you to seek out the other Muscadets recommended in the article and enjoy with a selection from the raw bar - a perfect way to celebrate the fine, late summer weather we're experiencing. A votre santé!
Top Muscadet Producers
Here are some of the best producers of Muscadet available in the United States.
ANDRÉ-MICHEL BRÉGEON Rich, substantial, precise, textured wines. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.)
CHÉREAU-CARRÉ A good range of wines, particularly
those labeled Comte Leloup du Château de Chasseloir. (De Maison
Selections, Chapel Hill, N.C.)
DOMAINE DE L’ÉCU Excellent Muscadet cuvées, along with some experimental whites and reds. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)
JO LANDRON/DOMAINE DE La LOUVETRIE Wines of great purity and expression. (Martin Scott Wines, Lake Success, N.Y.)
DOMAINE PIERRE LUNEAU-PAPIN Wide range of fine wines, particularly L d’Or and Terre de Pierre. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York)
MARC OLLIVIER/DOMAINE DE LA PÉPIÈRE Exceptional wines, especially the structured Clos des Briords and the vivid Clisson. (Louis/Dressner Selections)
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