East Coast Wines - A Tasting

 American wine production is dominated by California, Washington and to a lesser extent Oregon. Nonetheless, wine is produced in all 50 states, and many of these wines are notable in their own right, offering regional distinctions worthy of further exploration. Indeed, we have previously featured wines of Pennsylvania and the Finger Lakes of New York in previous classes. For this tasting, we expanded the territory for our tasting profiles, delving into wines from states that include New Jersey and Maryland, as well as new ones from Pennsylvania (Philadelphia) and New York State (Long Island). 

Overall, the wines were very well received, even those from Maryland, which hardly springs to mind when considering states with an established wine culture.  However, the real standouts were the two selection from the North Fork region of Long Island, courtesy of my wine geek friend Kevin, who graciously offered to sell off a few of his prize collectibles for the edification of my students.  Cheers and Happy Tasting!

Fiore Traminette

Origin:  Pylesville, MD

Varietal: 100% Traminette

Production/Tasting Notes: Aromas of citrus, pineapple, pear; flavors of apricot, grapefruit; hint of honey

Food Pairing: poultry; seafood; salads; vegetarian fare.

Alcohol:12%

 

Harford Vintage Vidal Blanc

Origin: Forest Hill, MD

Varietals: 100% Vidal Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes: semi-dry; hints of orange zest, grapefruit; floral notes

Food  Pairings: Crab dishes; pear & Roquefort tarts; crepes

Alcohol: 13%

 

 

Mural City Rosé

Origin: Erie County; PA

Varietal: 100% Chambourcin

Production/Tasting Notes: Fresh, dry, fruit forward; snappy; zesty.

Food Pairing: hoagies; grilled chicken; roasted veggies

Alcohol:  12%

 

Lamoreaux Landing Yellow Dog Riesling 2021

Origin: Lodi, Seneca Lake, NY

Varietal: 100% Riesling

Production/Tasting Notes: "Scents of toasted grain, hints of orange and orange zest. Mildly off-dry, [crisp] flavors of apple and citrus, balanced and mannered, with limey acidity and the density of poached tuna." Wine & Spirits Magazine, 91 points.

Food Pairing: Smoked fish; spicy, Asian dishes; Indian curry

Alcohol: 11.1%

 

Ravines  Limestone Springs Vineyard Dry Riesling 2021

Origin: Geneva, Seneca Lake, NY

Varietals: 100% Riesling

Production/Tasting Notes: Limestone soil; skin contact in tank before pressing; low temperature fermentation in stainless steel tank; ages on lighter lees before bottling; dry style, delicate aromatics of tangerine, juicy peach; flinty, distinct minerality, vibrant acidity. (92 points, Wine Spectator)

Food Pairing: Spicy Asian fare; dessert dishes

Alcohol: 13.3%

 

Willam Heritage Outer Coastal Plain Merlot 2022

Origin: Mullica Hill, NJ

Varietal: 100% Merlot

Production/Tasting Notes: 10 months in 15% new French oak; Notes of strawberry; olive; forest floor; herbal hints of fresh thyme, oregano.

Food Pairing: Burgers; roast beef; ratatouille

Alcohol: 13.5%

 

Lenz Cabernet Estate Selection 2019

Origin: North Fork, Long Island, NY

Varietal: 100% Cabernet Franc

Production/Tasting Notes: Barrel-fermented in open-ended barrels; on the nose, woody, earthy, traces of mint, red cherry, violet, cardomom; hint of vanilla; on the palate, soft, velvety mouthfeel; notes of red plum, pomegranate, raspberry; unfined, unfiltered.         

Food Pairing: Lentil soup; herb-crusted lamb rack; pizza

Alcohol: 12.5%

Paumanok Grand Vintage Merlot 2013

Origin: North Fork, Long Island, NY

Varietal: 100% Merlot

Production/Tasting Notes: Aged for 15 months in French oak (30% new; 70% neutral). Delicate aromas of plums, cola, and licorice with hints of black pepper. The palate is lively, with creamy, dark fleshy fruit - black cherry, plum; dried herb, autumn leaves; mushroom. Warm and expansive on the mid-palate, with rustic tannins, leading to a persistent finish tinged with sweet herbs, hinting at dark earth notes. (93 points, Wine Enthusiast; 93 points Wine Advocate.)

Food Pairing: Mushroom dishes; pasta with pesto or herb sauce; roast pork;

Alcohol: 13%

  

Notes on Wineries

Mural City Cellars, Philadelphia's first independently owned urban winery located in Fishtown, produced its first vintage in 2019.  Grapes are sourced from small growers within a 300-mile radius, extending all the way to Erie, Pennsylvania.  The labels are designed by local artists. The wines tend to be low-intervention and therefore, lean toward the "natural" style.  Wines can be purchased  site for take away or enjoyed on site in their cozy, comfortable lounge or in the outside patio.

Lamoureux Landing Wine Cellars, located on Seneca Lake in Lodi, New York, operates on 119 acres of planted vineyards in 20 different vineyard blocks.  Founded in 1990 and powered by 100% solar energy, the winery produces predominantly Riesling, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc, among others including Gewurztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gruner Veltliner.

Ravines Wine Cellars, which cultivates grapes on both Seneca and Keuka lakes, offers two separate tasting rooms - one in Hammondsport, the other outside Geneva.  Highly touted for its Rieslings, the winery also produces very find Pinot Noirs and various red blends consisting of such varietals as Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Blaufrankisch. Founded in 2001 by Morton and Lisa Hallgren,  Ravines pioneered the bone-dry, minerally-tinged Riesling which has since become the touchstone of Finger Lakes wine.  Morten grew up on his family's estate winery in the Cotes de Provence and pursued an advanced degree in Enology and Viticulture in at a prestigious Ecole in Montpellier before working at Clos d'Etournel a "Second Growth" winery of great renown in the Medoc region of Bordeaux.  He also served as chief winemaker for Dr. Konstantin Frank's, before branching out on his own beginning with a 17 acre plot on Keuka Lake.  Ravines now possesses 130 acres of estate vineyards.

William Heritage Winery, based in Mullica Hill, also operates a tasting room in Haddonfield.  The winery, located in the heart of the Outer Coastal Plain AVA in Southeastern New Jersey. was established in 2001, after Bill and Penni Heritage began cultivating grapes on their property in 1999. The winery is he family farm on which the grapes are grown dates back six generations of farming.  Winemaker Kevin Bednar served as assistant winemaker at Gallo as well as other wineries in Australia, New Zealand and Austria.

Paumanok Vineyards is a family winery founded in 1983 by Ursula and Charles Massoud in the North Fork area of Long Island, perhaps the most touted wine region on the entire island. The winery specializes in estate grown, vinifera-based wines, including Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot with production limited to about 12,000 cases annually.  Traditionally dense planting at 1100 to 1400 vines per acre produces more concentrated fruit which leads to higher quality wines.

Lenz Winery, also based in the North Fork community, was orginally founded in 1978, then purchased by Peter and Deborah Carroll in 1988, who over the years worked to improve the quality of the wines together with head winemakers Eric Fry, Sam McCullough and Tom until they retired and passed on the reins to Thomas Spotteck and Jerol Bailey.  The winery employs the techniques of hand harvesting, hand-sorting, low intervention, delayed release and full cluster ripening to enhance the overall quality of the wines.

A Wine Tasting by the Shore - Spanish Delights

 While the city was sizzling under a hot sun and stifling humidity, down the shore, it was cool, breezy and refreshing.  And to add to the refreshment, this year's version of "Sipping by the Shore" featured several whites and one red from Spain, starting off with a spritzy Txakoli from the Basque Region.  Our hosts put on a fabulous spread, and instead of traditional tapas, it was more eclectic and even local with the main event featuring delicious mini-hoagies from Bruno's - which the photographer forgot to snap, but here are the hors d'oeuvres which included several different dips, olive focaccia and calamari:

From our balcony, we had a splendid view of the shoreline and rolling waves of the Atlantic:

All wines were purchase at PA wine shops, so they are widely available, many at discount prices as Chairman Selects.

Salud!

Txakoli Primo Zarautz ($10 Chairman Select; $26 suggested retail) 

Origin:  Zarautz

Varietal: Xarelo; Macabeo; Chardonnay

Production/Tasting Notes:  Lightly frizzante; aromas of lemon, fresh basil; nasturtium; flavors of lemon, orange and lime zest; chopped basil, parsley, lavender; briny, salty on the palate; oyster shell minerality. (92 points Wine Enthusiast)

Food Pairing: Aperitif; light appetizers; shellfish

Alcohol:11.5%

 

Vina Olabarri  Blanco 2021 ($16.39)

Origin: Rioja DOCa

Varietals: 100% Viura; 10% Garnacha and Malvasia

Production/Tasting Notes: Nose of jackfruit flesh, curry leaf, citrus; nutty, savory, phenolic on the palate; spiced fruit; medium bodied; nicely rounded.

Food  Pairings:  pasta; salads; fish, seafood

Alcohol: 13%

 

 Dominio de la Granadilla Verdejo  2020 ($20)

Origin: Rueda DO

Varietal: 100% Verdejo

Production/Tasting Notes: Fermentation in Hungarian and French oak; 9 months on the lees with constant bâtonnage; intense, complex nose with balsamic and spice (fennel) notes; rounded on the palate; lively acidity; (90 points, James Suckling)

Food Pairing: appetizers; fish; white meat; smoked meat; Serrano ham

Alcohol:  13%

 

Bodegas O'Ventosela Taquilino Treixadura 2021 ($18)

Origin: Riberiro DO (Galicia)

Varietals: Treixadura

Production/Tasting Notes: Aromas of white fruit, crisp apple, pear; fresh, lively acidity; persistent on the palate; a "softer Assyrtiko" (Max).

Alcohol: 12%

 

Dominio Los Pinos 2021 ($20)

Origin: Valencia DO

Varietal: 40% Syrah; 40% Monastrell; 20% Garnacha

Production/Tasting Notes: Organically grown;  malolactic fermentation in concrete tanks; no barrel aging; 30 year old vines; natural, indigenous yeast; dark fruit, cherry jam notes on the nose; spicy; eucalyptus; rich, dense on the mid-palate; lingering finish; no added sulfites; 

 

Food Pairing: beef stew, lamb, roasted or grilled red meats;

Alcohol: 14%

 

Wine Tasting: Republic of Georgia

 The wine culture of Georgia dates back at least 8,000 years and is documented as one of the earliest in human history. Hundreds of varietals are known to have been cultivated over the centuries and are noted for their distinctive wine-making techniques and taste profiles.

I had been wanting to do a tasting of Georgian wines for some time, but was concerned about availability.  Indeed, I was obliged to source the wines for this tasting from Pennsylvania, New Jersey and online.  There may be some bottle shops in Philadelphia that carry them, such as Jet Wine Bar, but for the best selection online shopping is the way to go. For example, I used the website for Potomac Wines and Spirits to obtain the amber wine and the red blend.  The high shipping cost is somewhat balanced out by the low price of some of the wines.  The Cherry Hill Total Wine store has a fair selection.

In any event, nothing beats a good Qvevri Amber or Saperavi pairing with authentic Georgian cuisine at one of the restaurants in Northeast Philadelphia or the newcomer, Sakartvelo,  at 7th and Chestnut.  Gaumarjos!

Marani Mtsvane 2021 ($15.49 Total Wine, Cherry Hill)

Origin:  Kakheti

Varietal: 100% Mtsvane

Production/Tasting Notes: Scents of grapefruit, lemon, wildflowers; tropical fruit aromas; notes of green apple in the lingering finish; light acidity.

Food Pairing: Grilled fish; salads

Alcohol:12.5%

Teliani Valley  Tsolikouri 2022 ($16 PA stores; $26 Total Wine - go figure!)

Origin:  Lechkhumi

Varietal: 100% Tsolikiouri

Production/Tasting Notes: Fermented in stainless steel; aromas of green apple,  with notes of lemon, limestone; fruit flavors of grapefruit, pineapple; salty minerality.

Food Pairing: Grilled fish; salmon en croûte; salads

Alcohol:12.5%

 

Kakhuri Gvinis Marani Rkatsiteli  2022 ($17 Total Wine)

Origin: Kakheti

Varietal: 100% Rkatsiteli

Production/Tasting Notes: Aromas of peach, apricot; balanced acidity.

Food Pairings: Trout; turkey; chicken; salads

Alcohol: 12.5%

 

Begaso Skywatcher Kvevri Amber 2021 ($16 https://potomacwines.com/)

Origin: Kindzmarauli micro-district, Kakheti

Varietal: 100% Rkatsiteli

Production/Tasting Notes: aromas of apples, pears, green tea; lightly tannic.

Food Pairings: grilled fish or chicken; shellfish

Alcohol: 12%

 

Kindzmarauli Marani Guardians Saperavi 2021 ($12 PA stores)

Origin: Kakheti

Varietals: 100% Saperavi

Production/Tasting Notes: Fruity, plummy; cassis; pomegranate; blackberry; smoke; silky, yet sturdy tannins.

Food pairing: Cheddar, muster; roasted or grilled; lamb; beef; game; mushrooms; lentils;

Alcohol: 13%

Teliani Valley Saperavi 2021 ($26 Total Wine)

Origin: Kakheti

Varietal: 100% Saperavi

Production/Tasting Notes: Stainless steel fermentation; medium-bodied; notes of ripe sour cherry and pomegranate; vibrant acidity; firm tannins; lingering finish.

Food pairing: roasted meats; aged cheeses; burgers; pizza

Alcohol: 13%

 

Kakhuri Gvinis Marani Saperavi 2020 ($13 Total Wine)

Origin: Kakheti

Varietals: 100% Saperavi

Production/Tasting Notes: Notes of cinnamon, cigar box, pomegranate, plummy, earthy; intense berry fruit.

Food pairing: Cheddar, muster; roasted or grilled; lamb; beef; game; mushrooms; lentils;

Alcohol: 13%

 

 

Villa Chven Aleksandrouli- Dzelshavi 2021 ($24 Potomac Wines and Spirits)

Origin: Racha

Varietals: 75% Aleksandrouli-Mujuretuli; 25% Dzelshavi

Production/Tasting Notes: Soft, velvety cherry and blueberry tones; balanced acidity; lasting finish.

Food Pairing: lamb stew; grilled meats

Alcohol: 14%

 

Notes on Wine Grapes and Regions of Georgia

Saperavi, which means "something to color with," is the leading, and most widely planted, red grape varietal in Georgia. It is vinified in many versions - dry, semi-sweet, full-on sweet, or fortified. This very dark, inky, even opaque grape typically has aromas of dark berries, licorice, grilled meat, tobacco, chocolate and spices.  Sappy and tannic, it is now being grown in the US, particularly in central Pennsylvania (Fero Vineyards) and the Finger Lakes in New York.

Aleksandrouli is primarily grown in the mountainous hillsides in the Racha region of western Georgia, consisting of stony, calcareous soil.  It is typically partnered with Mujuretuli, producing a semi-dry red wine with good acidity and organoleptic properties of cherries and pomegranates.

Dzelshavi is predominantly grown in Racha region, one of the smallest wine regions in Georgia, and is believe to be one of the oldest varietals.  Thin-skinned and producing light, fresh, lively wines, it may be compared to lighter Beaujolais, Pinot Noir or Cabernet Franc, and as such, may be slightly chilled for summer fare.  It is often used as a blending grape, as in the Villa Chven for this tasting.

Rkatsiteli is the leading white grape varietal in Georgia, representing 43% of all plantings across 20, 000 hectares.  Native to the Kakheti region in eastern Georgia, it is the principal grape of this region.  Often blended with 15-20% Mtsvane, the name means "red shoot" referring to the stalks.  It is widely grown throughout Eastern Europe, and also in the Finger Lakes.  Restrained but refreshing, it typically features notes of green apples, quince and white peach, and might be compared to Petit Chablis or Pinot Grigio.  In more recent years, it has been vinified as an amber or skin-contact wine resulting in more complexity and texture.

Mtsvane, meaning "green from Kakheti", grows well in the calcareous soil of the Kakheti region.  Believed to be older that Rkatsiteli, it is usually vinified either as a single variety or blended with Rkatsiteli.

Tsolikouri, originating in Kolketi, is the leading white grape of western Georgia. It may be blended with lighter-bodied Tsitska or sometimes with Krakhuna to produce Sviri wines.  It is also vinified as a single varietal. As the warm and sunny Georgian climate allows Tsolikouri to naturally reach high sugar levels,  sweet and semi-sweet wines are commonly produced with this grape.

                                                Brief History of Georgian Wine

The roots of Georgian viticulture date back approximately 8,000 years as discovered in grape pips in the region.  Qvevri - clay pots - are a distinctive feature of Georgian wine-making and were the first vessels ever to be used in winemaking.  The egg-shaped qvevri are buried in the ground, ensuring optimal temperature for aging and storage of wine. The chacha (grape skins, stalks and pips) sink to the bottom as the wine becomes enriched by volatile and non-volatile elements, after which  the wine is separated from the chacha and stablilized.  Maceration time is typically about one month for both red and white wine.

Historically, over 500 unique, indigenous grape varietals in Georgia have been recorded by ampelographers, although only a few dozen are currently planted for commercial wine production.  As in most of Europe, phylloxera wreaked extensive damage on wine-growing regions throughout Georgia in the 19th century.  Then, in the era of Soviet Collectivism, diversity of varietals was greatly reduced.  However, with growing interest and research in Georgian enology, many local varieties are being rediscovered and cultivated.

During the Soviet era, Ukraine was known as the "breadbasket" of eastern Europe whereas Georgia was touted as the region's wine cellar.   Over 80% of Georgia's wine production was exported to Russian, and quality took second place to quantity.

As a result of the 2006 Russian embargo, Georgia was obliged to turn to the West for potential export markets, and its wineries began to focus more on quality and marketing, adapting their production techniques to cater better to Western tastes.

Wine Dinner Featuring Pinot Noir

 

Recently, a friend and erstwhile attendee of my wine tasting classes, hosted a small group dinner where we featured a selection of Oregon and Burgundy Pinot Noirs, including a Crémant de Bourgogne.  To add a little intrigue to the occasion, I decided to have the guests blind taste each of the still wines as we progressed through the dinner to see if they could determine whether the bottle originated from Burgundy, France or the Willamette Valley in Oregon.  The decision is hardly self-evident as both regions produce very high quality Pinot, and although there may be some general distinction between the Old World and New World, when it comes down to a particular winery or domaine, one can easily mistake the French wine for the Oregon issue.  

Paul Chollet Crémant de Bourgogne "Oeil de Perdrix" NV

 

Origin: Appellation Crémant de Bourgogne, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Bourgogne, France

Tasting Notes: Delicate effervesence of fine bubbles; aromas of raspberry, grapefruit; blanc de noir - source from pinot noir grapes in Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits; Hautes Côtes; dry, mineral-driven. A lovely way to begin the evening with mini gougères, saucissons sur concombres, and pistachios.  (Sorry, I missed taking a photo of these hors d'oeuvres!)

Alcohol: 12%

 

Kelley Fox Weber Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018

Origin: Dundee Hills AVA, Willamette Valley, Oregon

Production Notes: Classic red Jory soil - volcanic with silt, clay, loam; vines planted in 1983; 50% whole cluster pressed and aged in neutral Burgundy barrels (228L) made from tight-grain French forests; 194 cases

Tasting Notes: Nose of lovely red berries, most notably, strawberries, and a beautiful silky texture and long finish. It has good acidity and will age for at least ten years nicely. Because there is no new oak influence or other flavour and tannin manipulations, this wine is very purely singing of this inimitable place in Oregon.

- Kelley Fox, Winemaker

These 35-year-old vines fit nicely into the Kelley Fox portfolio of old vine Dundee Hills Pinots. They blend together a subtle mix of tart berry, lemony acidity, savory herbs and hints of coffee grounds. At the core is a palate-pleasing wine with pretty strawberry fruit coming to medium concentration before trailing out through the finish, leaving a hint of cinnamon as it fades.

- Paul Gregutt, Wine Enthusiast, 93 Points (Excellent, Highly Recommended)

 

Evening Land Pinot Noir 2022

Origin: Eola-Amity Hills AVA, Willamette Valley, Oregon

Tasting Notes: This was the first still Pinot we sampled with the dinner, and since there was no comparison with previous wines, it was anyone's guess as whether it was French or Oregonian. It was more or less an even split, but all agreed that it was delightful wine of ruby hue, delicate aromas - a touch of red fruit, a bit earthy; rather velvety and smooth on the palate with soft, textured tannins.  It accompanied the first course - a cool, refreshing puree of pea soup with a dollop of sour cream and sprig of dill.

 Domaine du Clos des Poulettes Côte de Nuits Villages "en Vierville"  2019

Origin: Appellation Côte de Nuits Villages  Contrôlées, Bourgogne

Production/Tasting Notes: Eighteen months aging in French oak barrels; bright sour-cherry on the nose; wide array of red berry, black currant notes; lively acidity; robust tannins; earthy; spice. (92 Points; James Suckling)

Alcohol: 13.5%

We enjoyed the Côte de Nuits Villages and Kelley Fox with the delicious and savory coq au vin and the refreshing, delightful salad. 

Many thanks to our host and chef of the evening, Robin, and her gracious hospitality.  And hats off as well to the guests who contributed both supplemental dishes and a willingness to play along with the blind-tasting and offer up cogent and perceptive comments on the wines.  Santé!

 Notes on the Bourgogne and Willamette Wine Regions

There are five major regions that constitute the Burgundy viticultural area, from Chablis in the far north to Beaujolais in the south with the Côte d'Or, the Côte Chalonnaise and le Maconnais in between from north to south (please note that the French Viticulture establishment promotes the region as Bourgogne, but I use both the English and French names interchangeably) :

Chablis is known for its crisp, dry, steely, minerally, unoaked Chardonnay, whereas Beaujolais specializes in Gamay, from the fizzy, fruity, bubble-gummy Nouveau Beaujolais, to the distinctive, classic Cru Beaujolais which continues to garner acclaim from wine critics the world over.

The Côte de Nuits  excels in world-class Pinot, routinely demanding price points between $1,000 and $10,000 per bottle for the top labels due to limited quantity, availability and reputation. Nevertheless, there are good value deals to be had with a little effort and research, as we found with the Côte de Nuits Villages at our dinner. This appellation typically offers affordable price points for dependable high quality.

Côte de Beaune is especially known for its Chardonnay, including some of the best in the world from such Village appellations such as Aloxe-Corton, Chorey-les-Beaune and Puligny-Montrachet. Pommard and Volnay produce Pinot Noir that rival those from the Côte de Nuits.

The Côte Chalonnaise offers good value wines - Pinot Noir and Chardonnay - at a fraction of the cost of those in the Côte de Nuits.  Three of the best known appellations include Rully, Mercurey and Givry.

The Mâconnais district lies to the south of the Côte Chalonnaise, overlapping with the northern edge of the Beaujolais region. Notable  for its world renowned Pouilly-Fuissé appellation, the Mâconnais produces crisp, clean whites of little oak influence with flavors and aromas of  apple, pear and lemon from the dominant Chardonnay varietal.

The Willamette Valley is the heart and most reputed region of the Oregon wine industry, best known for its Pinot Noir, but also producing fine Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling.  Due to its ideal terroir for growing Pinot Noir, it is not surprising to learn that many notable French winemakers have planted stakes in the Pacific Northwest https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/oregons-french-winemakers/

Currently, the Willamette Valley AVA includes 10 sub-AVAs, but is likely to add more in the coming years..