Wine Tasting: Republic of Georgia

 The wine culture of Georgia dates back at least 8,000 years and is documented as one of the earliest in human history. Hundreds of varietals are known to have been cultivated over the centuries and are noted for their distinctive wine-making techniques and taste profiles.

I had been wanting to do a tasting of Georgian wines for some time, but was concerned about availability.  Indeed, I was obliged to source the wines for this tasting from Pennsylvania, New Jersey and online.  There may be some bottle shops in Philadelphia that carry them, such as Jet Wine Bar, but for the best selection online shopping is the way to go. For example, I used the website for Potomac Wines and Spirits to obtain the amber wine and the red blend.  The high shipping cost is somewhat balanced out by the low price of some of the wines.  The Cherry Hill Total Wine store has a fair selection.

In any event, nothing beats a good Qvevri Amber or Saperavi pairing with authentic Georgian cuisine at one of the restaurants in Northeast Philadelphia or the newcomer, Sakartvelo,  at 7th and Chestnut.  Gaumarjos!

Marani Mtsvane 2021 ($15.49 Total Wine, Cherry Hill)

Origin:  Kakheti

Varietal: 100% Mtsvane

Production/Tasting Notes: Scents of grapefruit, lemon, wildflowers; tropical fruit aromas; notes of green apple in the lingering finish; light acidity.

Food Pairing: Grilled fish; salads

Alcohol:12.5%

Teliani Valley  Tsolikouri 2022 ($16 PA stores; $26 Total Wine - go figure!)

Origin:  Lechkhumi

Varietal: 100% Tsolikiouri

Production/Tasting Notes: Fermented in stainless steel; aromas of green apple,  with notes of lemon, limestone; fruit flavors of grapefruit, pineapple; salty minerality.

Food Pairing: Grilled fish; salmon en croûte; salads

Alcohol:12.5%

 

Kakhuri Gvinis Marani Rkatsiteli  2022 ($17 Total Wine)

Origin: Kakheti

Varietal: 100% Rkatsiteli

Production/Tasting Notes: Aromas of peach, apricot; balanced acidity.

Food Pairings: Trout; turkey; chicken; salads

Alcohol: 12.5%

 

Begaso Skywatcher Kvevri Amber 2021 ($16 https://potomacwines.com/)

Origin: Kindzmarauli micro-district, Kakheti

Varietal: 100% Rkatsiteli

Production/Tasting Notes: aromas of apples, pears, green tea; lightly tannic.

Food Pairings: grilled fish or chicken; shellfish

Alcohol: 12%

 

Kindzmarauli Marani Guardians Saperavi 2021 ($12 PA stores)

Origin: Kakheti

Varietals: 100% Saperavi

Production/Tasting Notes: Fruity, plummy; cassis; pomegranate; blackberry; smoke; silky, yet sturdy tannins.

Food pairing: Cheddar, muster; roasted or grilled; lamb; beef; game; mushrooms; lentils;

Alcohol: 13%

Teliani Valley Saperavi 2021 ($26 Total Wine)

Origin: Kakheti

Varietal: 100% Saperavi

Production/Tasting Notes: Stainless steel fermentation; medium-bodied; notes of ripe sour cherry and pomegranate; vibrant acidity; firm tannins; lingering finish.

Food pairing: roasted meats; aged cheeses; burgers; pizza

Alcohol: 13%

 

Kakhuri Gvinis Marani Saperavi 2020 ($13 Total Wine)

Origin: Kakheti

Varietals: 100% Saperavi

Production/Tasting Notes: Notes of cinnamon, cigar box, pomegranate, plummy, earthy; intense berry fruit.

Food pairing: Cheddar, muster; roasted or grilled; lamb; beef; game; mushrooms; lentils;

Alcohol: 13%

 

 

Villa Chven Aleksandrouli- Dzelshavi 2021 ($24 Potomac Wines and Spirits)

Origin: Racha

Varietals: 75% Aleksandrouli-Mujuretuli; 25% Dzelshavi

Production/Tasting Notes: Soft, velvety cherry and blueberry tones; balanced acidity; lasting finish.

Food Pairing: lamb stew; grilled meats

Alcohol: 14%

 

Notes on Wine Grapes and Regions of Georgia

Saperavi, which means "something to color with," is the leading, and most widely planted, red grape varietal in Georgia. It is vinified in many versions - dry, semi-sweet, full-on sweet, or fortified. This very dark, inky, even opaque grape typically has aromas of dark berries, licorice, grilled meat, tobacco, chocolate and spices.  Sappy and tannic, it is now being grown in the US, particularly in central Pennsylvania (Fero Vineyards) and the Finger Lakes in New York.

Aleksandrouli is primarily grown in the mountainous hillsides in the Racha region of western Georgia, consisting of stony, calcareous soil.  It is typically partnered with Mujuretuli, producing a semi-dry red wine with good acidity and organoleptic properties of cherries and pomegranates.

Dzelshavi is predominantly grown in Racha region, one of the smallest wine regions in Georgia, and is believe to be one of the oldest varietals.  Thin-skinned and producing light, fresh, lively wines, it may be compared to lighter Beaujolais, Pinot Noir or Cabernet Franc, and as such, may be slightly chilled for summer fare.  It is often used as a blending grape, as in the Villa Chven for this tasting.

Rkatsiteli is the leading white grape varietal in Georgia, representing 43% of all plantings across 20, 000 hectares.  Native to the Kakheti region in eastern Georgia, it is the principal grape of this region.  Often blended with 15-20% Mtsvane, the name means "red shoot" referring to the stalks.  It is widely grown throughout Eastern Europe, and also in the Finger Lakes.  Restrained but refreshing, it typically features notes of green apples, quince and white peach, and might be compared to Petit Chablis or Pinot Grigio.  In more recent years, it has been vinified as an amber or skin-contact wine resulting in more complexity and texture.

Mtsvane, meaning "green from Kakheti", grows well in the calcareous soil of the Kakheti region.  Believed to be older that Rkatsiteli, it is usually vinified either as a single variety or blended with Rkatsiteli.

Tsolikouri, originating in Kolketi, is the leading white grape of western Georgia. It may be blended with lighter-bodied Tsitska or sometimes with Krakhuna to produce Sviri wines.  It is also vinified as a single varietal. As the warm and sunny Georgian climate allows Tsolikouri to naturally reach high sugar levels,  sweet and semi-sweet wines are commonly produced with this grape.

                                                Brief History of Georgian Wine

The roots of Georgian viticulture date back approximately 8,000 years as discovered in grape pips in the region.  Qvevri - clay pots - are a distinctive feature of Georgian wine-making and were the first vessels ever to be used in winemaking.  The egg-shaped qvevri are buried in the ground, ensuring optimal temperature for aging and storage of wine. The chacha (grape skins, stalks and pips) sink to the bottom as the wine becomes enriched by volatile and non-volatile elements, after which  the wine is separated from the chacha and stablilized.  Maceration time is typically about one month for both red and white wine.

Historically, over 500 unique, indigenous grape varietals in Georgia have been recorded by ampelographers, although only a few dozen are currently planted for commercial wine production.  As in most of Europe, phylloxera wreaked extensive damage on wine-growing regions throughout Georgia in the 19th century.  Then, in the era of Soviet Collectivism, diversity of varietals was greatly reduced.  However, with growing interest and research in Georgian enology, many local varieties are being rediscovered and cultivated.

During the Soviet era, Ukraine was known as the "breadbasket" of eastern Europe whereas Georgia was touted as the region's wine cellar.   Over 80% of Georgia's wine production was exported to Russian, and quality took second place to quantity.

As a result of the 2006 Russian embargo, Georgia was obliged to turn to the West for potential export markets, and its wineries began to focus more on quality and marketing, adapting their production techniques to cater better to Western tastes.