Recently, a friend and erstwhile attendee of my wine tasting classes, hosted a small group dinner where we featured a selection of Oregon and Burgundy Pinot Noirs, including a Crémant de Bourgogne. To add a little intrigue to the occasion, I decided to have the guests blind taste each of the still wines as we progressed through the dinner to see if they could determine whether the bottle originated from Burgundy, France or the Willamette Valley in Oregon. The decision is hardly self-evident as both regions produce very high quality Pinot, and although there may be some general distinction between the Old World and New World, when it comes down to a particular winery or domaine, one can easily mistake the French wine for the Oregon issue.
Paul Chollet Crémant de Bourgogne "Oeil de
Perdrix" NV
Origin: Appellation
Crémant de Bourgogne, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Bourgogne, France
Tasting Notes: Delicate effervesence of fine bubbles; aromas of raspberry, grapefruit; blanc
de noir - source from pinot noir grapes in Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits; Hautes
Côtes; dry, mineral-driven. A lovely way to begin the evening with mini gougères, saucissons sur concombres, and pistachios. (Sorry, I missed taking a photo of these hors d'oeuvres!)
Alcohol:
12%
Kelley
Fox Weber Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018
Origin: Dundee Hills AVA, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Production
Notes: Classic red Jory soil - volcanic with silt,
clay, loam; vines planted in 1983; 50% whole cluster pressed and aged in
neutral Burgundy barrels (228L) made from tight-grain French forests; 194 cases
Tasting Notes: Nose of
lovely red berries, most notably, strawberries, and a beautiful silky texture
and long finish. It has good acidity and will age for at least ten years
nicely. Because there is no new oak influence or other flavour and tannin
manipulations, this wine is very purely singing of this inimitable place in
Oregon.
- Kelley Fox,
Winemaker
These 35-year-old vines fit nicely into the
Kelley Fox portfolio of old vine Dundee Hills Pinots. They blend together a
subtle mix of tart berry, lemony acidity, savory herbs and hints of coffee
grounds. At the core is a palate-pleasing wine with pretty strawberry fruit
coming to medium concentration before trailing out through the finish, leaving
a hint of cinnamon as it fades.
- Paul Gregutt, Wine Enthusiast, 93 Points (Excellent,
Highly Recommended)
Evening Land Pinot Noir 2022
Origin: Eola-Amity Hills AVA, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Tasting Notes: This was the first still Pinot we sampled with the dinner, and since there was no comparison with previous wines, it was anyone's guess as whether it was French or Oregonian. It was more or less an even split, but all agreed that it was delightful wine of ruby hue, delicate aromas - a touch of red fruit, a bit earthy; rather velvety and smooth on the palate with soft, textured tannins. It accompanied the first course - a cool, refreshing puree of pea soup with a dollop of sour cream and sprig of dill.
Origin: Appellation
Côte de Nuits Villages Contrôlées,
Bourgogne
Production/Tasting
Notes: Eighteen months aging in French oak barrels; bright
sour-cherry on the nose; wide array of red berry, black currant notes; lively
acidity; robust tannins; earthy; spice. (92 Points; James Suckling)
Alcohol: 13.5%
We enjoyed the Côte de Nuits Villages and Kelley Fox with the delicious and savory coq au vin and the refreshing, delightful salad.
Many thanks to our host and chef of the evening, Robin, and her gracious hospitality. And hats off as well to the guests who contributed both supplemental dishes and a willingness to play along with the blind-tasting and offer up cogent and perceptive comments on the wines. Santé!
Notes on the Bourgogne and Willamette Wine Regions
There are five major regions that constitute the Burgundy viticultural area, from Chablis in the far north to Beaujolais in the south with the Côte d'Or, the Côte Chalonnaise and le Maconnais in between from north to south (please note that the French Viticulture establishment promotes the region as Bourgogne, but I use both the English and French names interchangeably) :
Chablis is known for its crisp, dry, steely, minerally, unoaked Chardonnay, whereas Beaujolais specializes in Gamay, from the fizzy, fruity, bubble-gummy Nouveau Beaujolais, to the distinctive, classic Cru Beaujolais which continues to garner acclaim from wine critics the world over.
The Côte de Nuits excels in world-class Pinot, routinely demanding price points between $1,000 and $10,000 per bottle for the top labels due to limited quantity, availability and reputation. Nevertheless, there are good value deals to be had with a little effort and research, as we found with the Côte de Nuits Villages at our dinner. This appellation typically offers affordable price points for dependable high quality.
The Willamette Valley is the heart and most reputed region of the Oregon wine industry, best known for its Pinot Noir, but also producing fine Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling. Due to its ideal terroir for growing Pinot Noir, it is not surprising to learn that many notable French winemakers have planted stakes in the Pacific Northwest https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/oregons-french-winemakers/
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