Rosés: A Postscript

Demonstrating once again my "ahead-of-the-curve" disposition with regard to rosés, I was pleased to see these wines undergo the New York Times taste test a few weeks ago.  To be more precise, the panel sampled only California rosés, and whereas the approach I took in my last few classes was very much international, the upshot is that there is a wide variety of very interesting and eminently quaffable pink wines out there, so if you haven't yet taken advantage of the selection out there, get thee to a wine shop soon - before the summer and the supply run out!

Although I haven't (yet) tasted any of the wines featured in the report by Mr. Asimov and his tasting buddies, I was immediately drawn to the Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Rosé.  Those of you who took my class on Central Coast California wines a few years back may recall my unguarded enthusiasm for the Tablas Creek line of  products.  This one will definitely be on my shopping list for my next run to Total Wine which typically carries their wines.

You will find tasting notes of the one California rosé (a grenache from Sonoma) we sampled in my class on my blog post of May 24.  In the meantime, I invite you to read the following piece by Mr. Asimov on California rosés and seek out any of his panel's recommendations.

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/06/25/dining/tasting-california-roses.html

Sauvignon Blanc: Part Deux - the Good, the Bad and the Really Good!

In my first post this year with particular wine recommendations (see January 4), I featured three very fine Sauvignon Blancs (SBs) at different price points, depending on the size your wallet or purse: Meridian, Joel Gott, and Cloudy Bay.  There are literally hundreds of SBs available in the marketplaces these days from around the world - New Zealand, Chile, California, France, Italy and so on -,  so the question is how do you choose and how do you know whether a particular wine will appeal to your palate.  In many cases it comes down to trial and error - more on my own error in just a moment - but one of my goals in this blog is to inform and make suggestions or recommendations so that you'll be less likely to spend (waste) your hard-earned dollar on a mediocre or even bad wine.

With this in mind, I continue my SB exploration and offer up some of my recent tastings of this noble varietal in all its glory (and occasional disappointments).

Let's start off with the "really good"!

Chalk Hill Sauvignon Blanc Estate 2011

From the very first whiff of this wine's bouquet, I could tell I was in for something exceptional.  Indeed, I can categorically state that this is one of the finest SBs I've had the pleasure of indulging in.  It's actually a blend of 3 SB grapes: 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 7% Sauvigon Gris, and 3% Sauvignon Musque.

The aroma is pungent with the typical citrusy, grapefruit notes, but goes well beyond that with all sorts of fruit sensations - pear, pineapple, lychee, quince - as well as floral and herbal scents. The palate then opens up with orchard fruit, spicy citrus and maybe a touch of mango.  This is a lush, elegant, full-bodied SB which is not surprising given that it's been aged in French oak for 10 months (which may add some vanilla notes as well) and has undergone regular batonnâge (stirring the lees). The finish is long, powerful and persistent, and at 14.8% alcohol (the highest octane SB I've come across), this potent wine is one that you definitely want to pair with food, in particular a meaty, fleshy, full-flavored fish (halibut, mahi- mahi, sea bass) or Asian fish preparations.  Its complexity, potency and full-flavored profile will enhance greatly your dining experience.

The best news is that it is currently available at PA wine store as a Chairman's Select for half its suggested retail price - $15.99. Check online for availability in your area (code 33257) and grab some fast!

www.finewineandgoodspirits.com/

http://www.chalkhill.com/





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Now let's move onto the bottom of the barrel, so to speak, where for the first time I will invoke my CAUTION: BAD WINE alert.  Although I may be overstating the case, there's no doubt that the following wine was the most disappointing I've experienced in many, many months.  The label was attractive and appealing, designed by an artist specially recruited by the winery, and the tasting notes on the shelf label led me to believe it would be an interesting, good quality SB.  At about $15 and hailing from Napa, how could I go wrong?  Well, think again.

The aroma, a little fruity and citrusy, was pleasant enough, although the color left much to be desired - so pale and indistinct it reminded me of slightly dirty dish water.  My first sip was such a let-down, I was almost ready to dump it down the drain right then and there (which I eventually did after a few glasses): sweet, bland, insipid, totally lacking in any of the crisp acidity usually associated with SBs and almost devoid of any finish.  Indeed, after quaffing sufficient quantity to confirm my initial impression with my meal, I was left with a dull buzz and none of the delightful lingering sensations one equates with a fine wine and good food.

Now perhaps some will disagree with my assessment - indeed, it received a fair to good rating in some wine publications - but there are so many fine SBs out there, that it's not worth taking the chance. Buyer Beware!
  
2012 Mason Sauvignon Blanc (Caution: Bad Wine!)





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Whereas the Chalk Hill SB is a very lush, elegant, full-bodied wine which reflects a tasting profile tending towards the Chardonnay mode, the Justin Sauvignon Blanc, originating from Paso Robles along the Central Coast in California is classic New World style SB, featuring grapefruit and green apple aromas and that distinctive crisp acidity which makes the mouth pucker with delight. Fermented in 100% stainless steel tanks, It is a well-structured wine with mineral undertones that play against the array of fruit sensations such as white peach, lemon and lime with hints of lemongrass as well.  This is a great wine to enjoy nicely chilled in the warm summer months either with seafood - calamari, shrimp and other shell fish - or on its own as an aperitif to whet the appetite.  It's also rather strong in alcohol (14.5%), but I have to say that I really didn't notice any debilitating effects as I sampled a few glasses with a seafood salad.  It's very well-balanced in terms of fruit-acidity-alcohol and offers pure drinking pleasure to the SB lover.  Retailing at about $13, you'd be hard pressed to find a more delightful SB at this price point.  (By the way, Justin makes a range of mid to high level reds that are worth checking out and that I plan to write about in a future post.)

http://www.justinwine.com/

Justin Sauvignon Blanc 2012

Rosé Wine Tasting: Round 2

Our second rosé wine tasting took place this past Tuesday, June 3rd, and although the skies looked ominous throughout the day - and indeed there were some scattered showers in the area, including at the Unitarian Church - in the end, the weather gods cooperated and the skies cleared in time to set up the tasting "en plein air".  Despite some damp ground and a noticeably humid atmosphere, it was a pleasant evening to sip cool rosés in a bucolic setting.

The line-up this time included three different rosés  (see my tasting notes for these below) in exchange for the Sonoma Grenache, the Aldesheim Pinot Noir  and the Israeli Barbera that we sampled at the May 20th tasting.  The evening started off with three Provencal rosés, including the 2013 Miraval from the Jolie-Pitt estate, which just happened to be the cover story of the latest issue of the Wine Spectator:



http://www.winespectator.com/issue/show/date/2014-06-30

 Despite the frisson of imbibing a "movie-star wine," the general consensus was that it fell short of expectations, and the Whispering Angel  from  Chateau D'Esclans was again the clear favorite, followed by Jean-Luc Colombo's Cape Bleue whose quality/price ratio is hard to beat (about $13 a bottle).  Still, there's no doubt the Miraval is a good quality wine at a reasonable price - the suggested retail price is $30 but the wine is widely available in NJ and PA for about $23. For the record, I did sample the 2012 vintage last year and thought that this debut rosé hit the mark in terms of overall appeal - bouquet, structure, fruit and minerality, whereas the 2013 vintage didn't quite measure up.

The 100% Garnacha  rosé from Spain - Las Rocas de San Alejandro - was a winner for all the Garnacha/Grenache aficionados who might want something lighter and "chillable" for the summer.

And lastly, we sampled another 100% varietal - this one being a Vermentino Nero from the Liguria region in Italy.  Much darker in color than the typical Provencal rosé, the Mea Rosa is definitely on the fruitier side, from the lush aromatic bouquet down to the extended finish.

More and more red grape varietals are being fashioned into rosés, so that if there's particular red you're fond of, chances are you'll find it in a rosé: for example, even stalwart grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec are now available as rosés.  The summer is just beginning, so start sipping!

Miraval 2013

                                              

                  Varietals: Cinsault, Grenache, Rolle (Vermentino), Syrah

                  Classification: Appellation Côtes de Provence Contrôlée

                  Production/Tasting Notes: “Mis en bouteille par Jolie-Pitt & Perrin” (yes,                                Angelina & Brad); vinified in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats (95%) and      barrels  (5%); pale pink in color; pleasant floral nose of white flowers, soft roses, crushed strawberries and ripe cherries; round and soft on the palate; delicate structure that deepens on the palate; fresh summer red fruit:strawberries, wild raspberries, red currant; hint of lime;mineral notes with a slight saltiness and fresh acidity; savory herbal edge (91 points, Decanter; 89 points, Wine Spectator)

                   13% alcohol                             

 Las Rocas de San Alejandro 2013

                                  

Varietals: 100% Garnacha

Classification: Denominacion de Origen (DOC) Calatayud (Spain)

Production/Tasting Notes: From high altitude vineyards (3500 feet); fruit forward with aromas of raspberries and strawberries; bright red fruit flavors mingled with a hint of spice;full-bodied; long, fruity finish

Food pairings: Light, savory tapas

                
                  13.5 % Alcohol

“Mea Rosa” Rosato 2013  
                                                        

Region: Liguria de Levante (Ortonovo), Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT)

Varietal: 100% Vermentino Nero (an ancient autochthonous vine re-discovered and re-proposed after a long period of research and study by Paolo Bosoni and the vine experts)

Production/Tasting Notes: 36 hours cold maceration on the skins, fermentation at controlled temperature and refining in stainless steel vats; vivid deep pink color; bouquet of red fruit, wild strawberries with hint of spice; red fruit on the palate with mineral undertones

Food pairings:  Antipasti; seafood dishes; mildly spicy dishes; also as an aperitif

12.5% Alcohol

Rosé Wine Tasting: Round 1

This past Tuesday evening (May 20) our wine tasting group gathered on a wooded knoll on the grounds of the Unitarian Church off Lincoln Drive to sample an array of delightful rosé wines from around the world.  It was a pleasant evening to toast the impending Memorial Holiday weekend and the summer season.

We started off with my favorite "house" rosé, Jean-Luc Colombo's "Cape Bleue" which at about $13  a bottle (and widely available in PA, NJ & DE) is hard to beat for a intoxicatingly aromatic, fresh and fruity Provencal rosé with a intriguing hint of spice.

Next up was what many consider to be the finest Provencal rosé with the ethereal moniker of "Whispering Angel" from the D'Esclans estate.  Bone-dry with a firm, fleshy backbone, it certainly captivates the eye, not to mention the taste buds, with the most gorgeous pale pink hue.  This was a favorite of many tasters in the group.

The third selection was a 100% Grenache from Sonoma County, California. This 2012 Komomo was distinctive for its minerality, and more astringent, even earthy or musty aspects, as well as a notable watermelon aroma.  The more it breathed, the more it opened up and developed further with a long, lingering finish.  It scored top marks for at least one wine aficionado in our group.

We next moved onto two Pinot Noir rosés, the first from the Willamette Valley in Oregon (Adelsheim) and the second from the renowned Sancerre appellation in France - Thomas-Labaille "L'Authentique".  While both are of excellent quality and would be great choices for all you Pinot Noir lovers, the French wine edged out the Oregonian in our group's estimation with its complex palate of herbs, minerality and racy acidity.  The Adelsheim, by comparison, exhibits a lovely bouquet of white flowers and orange blossom along with typical strawberry notes.

The evening ended with something completely different : an Israeli wine from Galilee vinified from Barbera and Merlot grapes.  Distinctively darker and cherry-red in color, it was notable for its of aromas of cherries, pomegranate and white flowers. Slightly tannic and light to medium bodied and invitingly aromatic, it nonetheless finished somewhat short and abruptly.

Overall, the favorites were the "Whispering Angel" and the Sancerre, which are definitely worth the few extra bucks - typically about $20 a bottle.

1. Jean-Luc Colombo Cape Bleue Rosé 2013

Varietals: 67% Syrah, 33% Mourvèdre

Classification: Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP)

Production/Tasting Notes: Dry, but with deceptively sweet notes; fresh, aromatic, fruity bouquet with spicy notes;  complex flavors of fresh raspberries, cherries; hint of black olive; elegant finish with touch of spice.

Food pairings:  fish (fresh coho salmon, for example), poultry, vegetarian fare; also great as an apéritif

12.5 % Alcohol

2. Whispering Angel Caves D'Esclans 2012

                   

Varietal: Grenache, Rolle (Vermentino), Cinsault, Syrah, Tibouren

Classification: Appellation Côtes de Provence Contrôlée

Production/Tasting Notes: Vinified in stainless steel tanks; “batônnage” twice weekly; singularly gorgeous pale pink in color; appealingly fresh fragrance of light summer fruits (rapsberry, strawberry, cranberry); cherry nuances; firm, fleshy structure on the palate; firm texture and fine dry finish;

(World's Greatest Provençal Rosé? - you decide!)

Food pairings:  your favorite summertime Provençal fare

13 % Alcohol

3. Komomo Grenache Rose 2012 (Pauline's Vineyard)

                   

Varietals: 100% Grenache

Classification/Region: Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California

Production/Tasting Notes: 100% stainless steel fermentation; watermelon, strawberry, red cherry aromas; hints of minerality; long, lingering finish

Food pairings: Mediterranean fare

13.1 % Alcohol

          

4. Adelsheim Rosé 2013

                   

Varietal:  100% Pinot Noir

Region: Willamette Valley, Oregon

Production/Tasting Notes: Saignée method (portion of juice bled off from Pinot Noir fermenter 6-12 hours after filled with grapes); slow, cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks; 12% fermented in older, neutral French oak barrels; bottled 2/24/14; fresh strawberry, raspberry aromas, hint of vanilla bean, orange blossom, white flowers; rich well-textured palate

Food pairings: Mediterranean style dishes, bouillabaisse; grilled shrimp; goat cheese, ham and poultry entrees

13.5% Alcohol

5. Thomas-Labaille “l'Authentique” Rosé 2013

                

Classification: Appellation Sancerre Contrôlée

Varietal: (old vine) Pinot Noir

Tasting Notes:  Mineral-driven nose and palate typical of Loire wines;  ripe strawberry backed by racy acidity; also notes of sweet herbs on the palate

Food pairings: Fresh goat cheese; salmon baked with herbs; fish tacos with avocado and cilantro

Alcohol: 12.5%

6. Recanati Rosé 2013

                   

Varietals: 70% Barbera, 30% Merlot

Region: Galilee, Israel

Production/Tasting Notes:  Unirrigated Manara vineyard; cherry red color; light-medium body; aromas of crushed strawberries, pomegranate, white  flowers, raspberry, cherry; balanced acidity; light tannins; mouth-filling; crisp, refreshing

Food pairings: Grilled fish, seafood; spicier fare

       12.5% Alcohol

Tasting Preview: Everything is Coming up Rosés

My next class will feature rosé wines.  The June 3rd class is already sold out, but there are a few spaces left for the May 20th class (next Tuesday).  Sign up at the following link:

https://learningtree.ccwis.com/CourseStatus.awp?&course=14SCK07A


There was time in the not too distant past when rosé wine brought to mind cheap, sweet, low quality, mass-produced pink plonk from Portugal whose empty bottles served as candle-holders in university dorm rooms- I'm looking at you Mateus and Lancers! It's a whole new world these days where there has been a virtual revolution in the variety, availability and provenance of this previously maligned style of wine.

So if you're one of those who hasn't sipped a rosé since your college days, this course is for you. We will be sampling a wide range of rosés from several different countries, vinified from any number of different grape varietals and featuring styles from light and fragrant to complex and full-bodied. These will include wines from France, California, Oregon and Israel.  The wines are vinified from  Pinot Noir, Grenache, Barbera, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cabernet Franc and other varietals. The latest vintages are now arriving in wine shops across the tri-state region so it's a very good time to get out there and start sampling.  Many of the wines I will feature are available at PA State Stores, and the one at 12th & Chestnut Sts. in Philadelphia has an especially strong selection. Just ask Max for some recommendations.

There is nothing like a cool, refreshing glass of fine rosé to usher in the summer season. Please join us as we explore the new and exciting world of rosé wine!

"How to Love Wine"

In my blogger profile, I mention that among the many wine resources and references I regularly consult is the New York Times wine column, which is written by Eric Asimov.  I especially like reading his columns because they very much reflect my own philosophy of wine discovery and enjoyment, in addition to which I am almost always assured of learning something new about wine or of being pointed in a new direction in my search for intriguing wines.  For this reason, I was particularly drawn to actually buying (I rarely buy books these days for fear of tipping my overloaded book shelves) and delving into his new book "How to Love Wine", published in October 2012 by William Morrow (an imprint of Harper Collins).  Described as part memoir and part manifesto, the book alternates between tales of his (self-)education and experience in wine from the teen years up until his appointment as "Chief Wine Critic" of the Times about 10 years ago, and his take on wine culture (mostly in the United States) and such imposing and over-hyped criteria of wine appreciation as the tasting note, and the 100 point scale.






From a wine lover's perspective, Asimov can be viewed as living a charmed life: imagine being paid to drink fabulous wines from all over the world, traveling to picturesque chateaux, charming wineries and bucolic vineyards in beautiful, romantic settings to do research and then give your own personal assessment of the wines!  (Okay, I do get a little remuneration for the wine courses I conduct, but I still have my day job to pay the bills.)  Since we are both about the same age and pursued our interest and passion for wine in roughly the same time periods, what I found particularly interesting was the "memoir" chapters of the book wherein he describes his first tastings of wine as a teenager, his first big splurge on a bottle of wine (a 1995 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion for his parents' 30th anniversary) and his various and sundry adventures and misadventures in wine drinking through college, graduate school  and beyond, before he took serious measures in educating himself about wine.  I could certainly relate to these accounts of youthful experimentation and (at times) embarrassing situations.  His eventual appointment as "Chief Wine Critic" (a title he assumes with deference and humility) is somewhat fortuitous, yet mostly likely due to many years of dogged  journalistic inquiry and editorial experience.

On the "manifesto" side, Asimov takes issue with the "tyranny" of the tasting note and the limitations of the 100-point scoring system.  His main criticism of the tasting note seems to be that it's become more of a critic's game to list how many different aromas and tasting sensations one can eke out of a single wine sampling, as opposed to whether the wine is actually any good and will suit a consumer's expectations and preferences.  As for the 100-point scale, he points out that these blind-tasting scorings ignore the single most important consideration when enjoying  wine: context.  (In a recent column related to so-called objective wine scoring, Asimov makes the case that he is not at all averse to making a point of his personal preferences in assessing wines. http://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/23/dining/a-wine-critics-realm-isnt-a-democracy.html )

Overall, I found the book to be a very enjoyable and enlightening read, inasmuch as I highly value the author's approach to the experience of wine tasting and his criticism of the trappings of wine culture, not to mention that I find his personal preferences in wine to be very much in synch with my own so that I trust his judgement.  His writing style is engaging and personable and generally avoids pedantic and overwrought wine terminology.  However, I did find an overabundance of references to high-end Bordeaux wines as well as other ethereal wines from France and Italy which may either leave the reader in a fog as to what he's talking about or give the impression of name-dropping to bolster his wine "cred".  A further caution is that the memoir parts of the book - as much as I enjoyed reading about his exploits and adventures and comparing them to my own - may become tiresome and tedious to the younger reader (i.e, under 45 years of age).  In the end, the book will be most appreciated by the serious wine reader (or geek), but is not likely to be of great interest to the casual wine drinker.  That said, I will leave you with some of the more salient points Asimov makes that hold value for all wine imbibers of today:

Right now is the greatest time in history to be a wine drinker [due to] unparalleled access to more different sorts of excellent wines, from more places all over the world, than ever before.

Nobody, not even the world's greatest wine scholar, will ever master all they need to know to choose the right bottle every time.

The single most important thing one can do if one wants good bottles with dinner is to make friends with a smart salesperson at a good wine shop.

Wine production today is essentially divided between those who make huge amounts of acceptable wine for cheap prices and those who make small amounts of more ambitious, more distinctive and more expensive wines.

What's in [a] glass at a particular moment almost never represents the full potential of a good wine.  It offers a ... suggestion, ... but is almost never completely knowable.

Bogle "Essential Red"

One of the purposes of my blog is to alert followers to wines I come across that I find to be of especially good value, in terms of price and quality, as well as exceptional wines that are worth the occasional splurge.  Most of these then will be "everyday" wines that will not break the bank, that are readily available in PA, NJ or DE, and that have been "pre-sampled" and evaluated by me so that you can be reasonably assured you will find them distinctive in some way and thoroughly enjoyable depending on your own personal taste profile.

Continuing along this vein, if you're are a fan of the big, juicy, jammy red blends of California, you'd be hard pressed to do better than the BOGLE ESSENTIAL RED, which marries together Old Vine Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah to create a luscious, mouth-filling blend with rich, ripe fruit (boysenberry and cherry) that is eminently quaffable, yet offers a degree of complexity of layers on the palate and a lingering finish of licorice and tobacco that elevates it above the typical mass-produced California blend at this price point ( $11-13).  Aged 18 months in American and French oak, it boasts soft and silky tannins with pleasant vanilla notes without the harsh "oakiness".  If you're looking for a wine that's approachable and a crowd-pleaser while keeping an eye on your budget, this is a great choice or, as the Wine Spectator (88 pts) opines, "a no-brainer for summer entertaining".  (I sampled the 2010 vintage, though the 2011 vintage should be in stores now. PA code is 6685.)