Wines of Alsace (France)

In my latest wine tasting class, we sampled some of the delightful wines of the charming and picturesque corner of the Alsace, located in northeastern France along the German border. Known almost exclusively for its celebrated white wines, including Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Blanc, this area also produces late harvest dessert wines, quality sparkling wines (Crémant d'Alsace) and has entered the red wine market in the form of Pinot Noir. 

Long outshone by the Burgundy and Bordeaux regions, the Alsace has been enjoying a resurgence in popularity among consumers and critical acclaim by wine experts.

Last summer I hosted an Alsatian Wine Tasting and Dinner "down the shore" (New Jersey) and reported on that event in previous blog post (see  http://phillywineguy.blogspot.com/2017/08/alsatian-wine-tasting-dinner.html )

Since it's often hard to tell from the label how sweet these wines may be, I have indicated in the tasting notes the level of sweetness. Late Harvest (Vendange Tardive) wines will be very sweet and are to be enjoyed with dessert.

Almost all the wines were rated as a favorite by at least a few participants, some of them quite being surprised by wines they knew little about previously.  The main disappointment for me as well as the class was the Sylvaner, especially since it was the priciest of the lot.  Although Albert Boxler, the producer, got a very favorable write-up by Kermit Lynch (see notes below), this particular wine left much to be desired.  Typcially, Sylvaner is rather neutral wine with little in the way of aroma, or taste.  Even so, this one had little to offer.  The Sylvaner that I brought back from Alsace last year (Cuvee Z) and which I featured in the tasting referred to above, was very inexpensive and offered more distinctive characteristics and pleasant mouthfeel. It just shows that price does not always indicate how much you may like a wine.

For those of you who enjoy a dry crisp sparkling wine, the Cremant d'Alsace is an excellent choice.  And the Wilm Pinot Gris is a good bargain at about $13 - almost everyone was a fan and estimated its price much higher.  Lastly, the Zind Humbrecht Riesling is hard to beat for a classic dry Alsatian Riesling at a reasonable price.

Cheers!

The Furst ... Cremant d'Alsace Blanc de Blanc (NV)  ($22 PA)

                        

Appellation: Appellation Cremant d'Alsace Contrôlée

Varietal: 100% Pinot Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes:  méthode traditionnelle, with the second fermentation occurring in the bottle; gravel and alluvium soil; on the nose subtle citrus notes and aromas of white flowers.  This is a "Brut" which means it is very dry with very little residual sugar.

Food  Pairing: light seafood, dessert, or on its own as an aperitif

Alcohol: 12%

Wilm Pinot Gris Reserve 2016  ($13 Wine Works, NJ)

                        

 

Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée

Varietal: 100% Pinot Gris

Production/Tasting Notes: 100% Hand harvesting ; extended and soft pressing ; 4-6 weeks controlled fermentation in stainless steel ; maturing on the fine lees for another 2 to 3 months; nose of ripe fruit - peach, apricot quince; on the palate,  it is both supple and full, with notes of honey and spices. This wine is slightly sweet.(82 points, Wine Spectator)

Food pairing: fish with cream sauce, smoked salmon, duck magret, pan-fried foie gras, grilled or roasted white meats (pork, veal), rabbit, poultry in cream sauce, smoked fish, mushroom dishes such as risotto.

Alcohol:  13%

Albert Boxler Sylvaner 2014  ($26 PA)

Appellation/Region: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée

Varietal: 100%  Sylvaner

Production/Tasting Notes: Granite soil; 50 year old vines; All grapes are harvested by hand, no fining; after pressing, cold settling before fermentation begins; all natural fermentation;  vinified in foudre ; practicing organic; full-bodied style with a whiff of earth and smoke on the nose, highlighted at the expense of  scant fruit flavors; typically neutral or muted aromas.  This is a very dry wine.

Food  Pairings :  Alsatian onion tart; grilled asparagus with poached egg; seafood chowder

Alcohol: 13%

Rolly Gassmann Pinot Blanc 2014   ($20 PA)

Appellation : Appellation Alsace Contrôlée

Varietal: 100% Pinot Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes:  Biodynamic; hand harvested; indigenous yeast; soil types: limestone, marl, clay, muschelkalk, conglomerate; no irrigation; fragrant aromas with elderflower and a hint of honey; on the palate, luscious and opulent texture, fruity and fresh; apricot, pear, orange, grapefruit and marzipan; lingering finish; aging - 8-10 years.  This wine is as a tad sweet.

Food Pairings: lobster, game fish or with chicken with a rich creamy sauce;  will also pair well with quiche Lorraine.

Alcohol: 13%

Marcel Deiss Alsace 2016  ($24 PA)
 

                        

Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée

Varietals: 13 Alsatian varietals, including Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Muscat, Gewurztraminer and Sylvaner.

Production/Tasting Notes:  Pale yellow color, intense fruity nose show the blending notes of lemon, white flowers, pineapple and yellow peach;  palate is remarkably fruity and distinctive ; saline notes;  complex bouquet, silky mouthfeel, intense finish;some residual sugar

Food Pairing: soups, salads, white meats, fish

Alcohol: 13.5%

Trimbach Gewurztraminer 2014  ($18  Wine Works, NJ)

 

                        

Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée

Varietals: 100% Gewurztraminer

Production/Tasting Notes: Hand harvested; aromas of cinnamon, nutmeg, lychee and rose petal; rich, luscious, intense; well-balanced with dry, spicy finish. (88 points -2015, Wine Spectator)

Food  Pairing: fish or seasoned meats, spicy and exotic dishes, soft cheeses (such as the famous Munster), and a plethora of desserts.

Alcohol: 13.5%

Schoffit  Gewurztraminer Lieu-Dit Harth Cuvee Caroline 2014  ($25  PA) 

 

                               

Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée

Varietal: 100%  Gewurztraminer

Production/Tasting Notes: Biodynamic; gravelly soil covered by loess; Average vine age 50 Years; hand harvested; fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks; apricot, honey, floral and perfume aromas.  This wine is somewhat sweet. (89 points - 2015, Wine Spectator)

Food Pairings: Pork, rich fish (salmon, tuna etc), spicy food, poultry, mild and soft cheese

Alcohol: 13%

Famille Hugel Classic Riesling 2014  ($18.39  PA)

Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée

Varietal: 100% Riesling

Production/Tasting Notes: Winemaker notes: "Made exclusively from hand harvested grapes from predominantly clay and limestone vineyards, in a dozen of the most favored localities in and around Riquewihr. A cool and long growing season give this unique dry wine great finesse and unequalled intensity."  Bouquet is fresh and lively, crisp and clean, pleasantly aromatic and fruity, green apple, lemongrass, ginger, white peach, fresh moss and blackcurrant, with a touch of muscatel; dry and fresh on the palate, vivacious, nicely taut and elegantly structured, giving depth and persistence; aging potential - 3-5 years to develop full complexity and bouquet. This is a very dry Riesling. (89 points- 2015, Wine Spectator)

Food Pairing: turbot, sea perch, monkfish, lobster, crayfish, seafood, pike-perch, pike, salmon, shellfish, scallops, and carpaccio of raw or marinated fish

Alcohol: 12.5%

Domaine Zinck Pinot Blanc 2015   ($15 Wine Works, NJ)

                         

 

Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée

Varietal: 100% Pinot Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes: silt, clay-silt; harvest by hand, pneumatic press, static must settling; fermentation in stainless steel tanks with individual heating/refrigeration system, maturation on the lees until the spring; "Notions of baked Mirabelle plums lend their full-fruited aspect to nose and palate. Their softness is countered by fresh lively crispness.... friendly, refreshing and fruit-driven. " Wine Enthusiast, 88 points.

Food Pairing: Shellfish, fresh salads, white meat;  regional dishes: Baeckaoffa, tarte flambée, quiches, fleischnaka; ressed cheeses like Cantal, Salers…

Alchol: 13.5%

Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling (Turckheim) 2015  ($22 Wine Works, NJ)

Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée

Varietal: 100% Riesling

Production/Tasting Notes: Biodymaic; average vine age 31 years; gravel, silt soil; bright pale yellow/green color; expressive nose, showing intense fruit quality and precise fresh fruit/floral aromatics; flavors of  nectarine, guava, stone and spice; typical palate for a Riesling: freshness, elegance, nice juicy ripe acidity, very dry but not lean, no trace of over ripeness, medium light finish; 91 points, Wine Spectator

Food Pairings:

Alcohol: 12%

AOC Alsace Explained (- Kermit Lynch website)

AOC Alsace wines are generally varietal wines. The wines in which the grape variety appears on the label are 100% the stated variety.


The permitted grapes are the four noble grapes: Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Riesling, and Pinot Gris, completed with Auxerrois (also known as Klevner), Chasselas, Pinot Blanc, Savagnin rosé, Sylvaner, and Pinot Noir.When no grape variety indicated on the label, the wine is typically a blend.


Depending on which varieties are used in the blend, the producer can label the wine as AOC Alsace, AOC Alsace “Edelzwicker,” or AOC Alsace “Gentil d’Alsace.”AOC Alsace blends and “Edelzwicker” can be a blend of any grapes allowed within the AOC. There is no grape minimum; the different varieties may be vinified together or separately. The mention of vintage is optional. There is no technical difference between the composition of AOC Alsace blends and “Edelzwicker”—it is at the producer’s discretion as to how they would like to label their wine.


The denomination “Gentil d’Alsace” is reserved for AOC Alsace wines that fit within the standards of a superior quality blend. This blend must consist of a minimum of 50% of noble grapes: Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and/or Gewurztraminer, the rest made up of Sylvaner, Chasselas, Pinot Blanc, and/or Auxerrois. Before blending, each grape variety must be vinified separately and must officially qualify as an AOC Alsace wine.

Notes on Wine Producers

Pierre Gassmann, champion of biodynamic cultivation in Alsace, insists on late harvesting and lengthy cellaring after bottling, creating amply sweet yet balanced styles. In-depth knowledge of the family estate (a complex mosaic of limestone and marls) and pursuit of low yields promote precise expression of different terroirs.

The Rolly Gassman Pinot Blanc comes from a selection of vineyards located within the village of Rorschwhir, it was harvested at optimum ripeness. Pierre Gassmann considers that the grapes are ripe when the pip has turned orange brown inside the grape.
Harvest is done by hand, as most things at the estate. The philosophy that guides the Rolly Gassmann family centers on as little interference with the vines as possible, rigorous selection of grapes, and the most careful handling of both harvest and vinification to produce wines of the highest quality and specificity.
The grapes are taken to the cellar, gently pressed and taken into individual fermentation tanks where no yeast is added, fermentation is done using indigenous yeast. Each vineyard has its own fermentation tank and is vinified separately. Once fermentation is completed and the wine is left to rest and it is bottled within 11 months from harvest. Fermentation can take a few months to complete depending on the circumstances, bottling normally happens just before the next harvest. The bottles are then laid to rest for a couple of years at least for the less complex wines, more elaborate cuvees will be kept aside for many years before being released, as much as 20 years and more.
Surface under vine: 40 hectares
Organic and biodynamic viticulture: since 1997, Organic certification 1998 by Ecocert, biodynamic certification by Biodyvin / Ecocert in 2002.

5.5ha Thann

• 6.0ha Hunawihr

• 2.2ha Gueberschwihr

• 7.3ha Wintzenheim

• 19.8ha Turckheim

• 0.3ha Niedermorschwihr

Marcel Deiss

The complantation (art of blending grape varietals in one Terroir) is the most original practice of viticulture in Europe. Long before the winemakers knew about the varieties and become scholar ampelographers, the complantation assumes a regular harvest as noted by Olivier de Serres in his book "The Theatre of agriculture and husbandry fields" (1600 ). Closer to our ear (1852), Jean-Louis Stolz characterized more than 100 grape varieties that cultivars planted in the vineyard in Alsace and described specific complantations in the greatest terroirs of Alsace (Sporen, Schoenenbourg Sonnenglanz, Zotzenberg, Kastelberg, Kaefferkopf). At that time, there were very few pure vineyard, the wine makers gradually realized a real adaptation of a complex vines in the terroir by layering technique (replace artistically a dead vine by its resistant neighbor better adapted) .

While the grape variety has always been optional for AOC Alsace (Order 1945) and many plots on hillsides were still co-planted in the 60s, the introduction of the legislation which requires the mention of grape variety for Grand Cru (1975 ) can be considered as a historical mistake because it has resulted in a dramatic loss of biodiversity of vineyards, establishment of productive clones and a shift in all varieties. Fortunately, some winemakers have the perseverance and obstinacy, and in 2005, to reform this unjust law (the grape variety is now entirely optional for AOC Alsace and the Grand Cru).

Bernard Schoffit is a brilliant pioneer in Alsace’s greatest Grand Cru, Rangen de Thann. The domaine started by Bernard’s father, Robert at 10 hectares, is situated near Colmar.  25 years ago, Bernard, then still very young, embarked on an ambitious program of buying land in Rangen, around the Clos St. Theobold.  Totaling nearly 6.5 hectares, a good part of it had been abandoned because it was too steep to work. Through sheer determination and ambition, he has now reclaimed all 6.5 hectares.  From these incredibly steep slopes, with extremely low yields, he is making simply extraordinary wine from each cépage he grows.  Bernard’s gift for wine-making is not reserved only for his Rangen wines.  In his vineyards near Colmar he practices the same rigorous approach to yields, and from a less than one hectare parcel of Riesling on Sommerberg (granite), makes one of the most brilliant wines of that varietal in all of Alsace.  These yields, some very old vines and Bernard’s guiding hand produce wines that are all marked by the following characteristics: intensity, very pure varietal character, great concentration of fruit on the palate and perfect acidity to balance and carry this weight into a long and brilliant finish.

Domaine Zinck

From a family that has worked the earth and the vines at Eguisheim for several generations, Paul Zinck created the Zinck Winery in 1964. He started with 2.5 hectares of vines.

From his earliest days, Paul watched his parents, Henri and Anna, produce wine along with their mixed farming. With time, they started a winemaking business entirely separate from the rest; 1955 saw the first bottling. Paul continued to develop the winery, improving the equipment and quality of the production.

In the mid-70s, the winery covered 6 hectares. With the help of his wife, Christiane, Paul set up and launched a serious marketing strategy, creating a sales outlet at the winery and offering wine-tastings of his production. His first attempt at exporting was with activities and wine-tastings in Belgium.

Driven by the same passion as his father, Philippe jointed the winery in 1997 and took over the working of 8 hectares. While respectful of the values of a family-owned business, he managed to create a subtle balance between traditional small-scale methods and new wine-growing and winemaking techniques. His passion for the vines and the earth, combined with his entrepreneurial skills, have brought the winery recognition and, even more, have produced wines with a style unique to the Alsatian countryside.

Today, the winery, headed by Philippe and his wife Pascale, who joined him in 2007, covers 20 hectares and produces three complete ranges of wine, all regularly awarded by the professionals: the Portrait, Terroir and Grands Crus, topped off by the Crémant and Crémant rosé. He exports to around twenty countries.

Trimbach

The wine-growing history of Maison Trimbach dates back to 1626.

Since then, twelve generations of winemakers have tirelessly drawn on their passion for Alsace wines, ensuring the wines they produce stand out for their quality and authenticity, patiently establishing, from father to son, a solid reputation for excellence.

Trimbach wine acquired true international acclaim in 1898 when Frédéric Emile Trimbach received the highest distinction at the International Wine Fair in Brussels.

This success is due in no small part to the jewel in the estate’s crown, the «Clos Sainte Hune» vineyard.

Today, the family vineyard is run by Hubert Trimbach, his nephews Jean and Pierre, and  Pierre’s daughter Anne, the oldest member of the 13^thgeneration. Their enthusiasm and ambition keep the family’s tradition, rigor and know-how alive, bringing their wines to the very peak of perfection.

Pierre has been in charge of the « technical side » and vinifications when Jean and Anne are traveling all around the world. Julien, Jean’s son, just joined the Family to work closely with Pierre in the cellar.

Two turrets overlooked by the surrounding vines, a few meters from the heart of Ribeauvillé, pinpoint the F.E. Trimbach estate.

Situated on the Wine Route, between the vineyards and the mountains, this pretty village, boasting a rich historical heritage, asserts itself as the center of Alsace winegrowing and cuisine.

Sheltered by the Vosges Mountains and exposed to maximum sunshine, the Ribeauvillé fault line offers a rich mosaic of soils (limestone, sandstone, marl, clay, etc.).

These natural assets provide the perfect conditions for an array of aromatic grape varieties.

The 40 hectares that make up the Trimbach estate stretch over more than 50 parcels and 6 villages, including Bergheim, Ribeauvillé and Hunawihr.

The Trimbach estate strives to produce high quality wines by using integrated, sustainable winegrowing practices. This is demonstrated with the winery’s focus on preserving nature; close pruning, innovative techniques for maintaining healthy vines, tilling the soils, producing moderate yields, and meticulous selection of the grapes used in each wine.

This rigor, applied to the property’s own vines, is also applied when the Trimbachs purchase grapes from growers loyal to the estate. This is one of the many tasks carefully overseen by Pierre.

Domaine Zind Humbrecht

Represented by: Olivier Humbrecht

Winegrowers father to son since 1620, the Humbrecht family has cultivated their vines in the great terroirs of Alsace.

Domaine Zind Humbrecht was created in 1959 through the amalgamation of the Humbrecht family vineyards in Gueberschwihr and the Zind family vineyards in Wintzenheim.  Prior to 1959, both families produced and sold their wines under their respective names.

After taking over the reins from Léonard and Geneviève Humbrecht in 1989, the Domaine is today run by Olivier and Margaret Humbrecht.

Winegrowing is a tradition in the Humbrecht family that has been passed down from father to son since the 30 Year War in 1620. Canon Barth, an historian of Alsatian wine, recounts that the Humbrecht family was a tenant of the Marbach Abbey vineyards near Gueberschwihr in the 18^th century.  However, it was only in 1947 that the Humbrecht family began producing, vinifying and selling their wines under the Humbrecht name.

Domaine Zind Humbrecht today comprises of 41.1 hectares of vines, spread out over the following 6 communes:

  The expression of terroir, conveyed through grape varieties of Alsace, is reinforced by cultivating the vines organically and according to biodynamic principles. Great lengths are gone to each growing season to produce the best quality grapes from each vineyard. As respect for the vine and soil life is imperative, the viticultural tasks are carried out by a team of 22 dedicated staff members. The high ratio of vineyard worker to vineyard surface enables an attention to detail and the execution of many of the viticultural tasks manually. In addition, animal traction and the use of their own compost help to reduce the impact of mechanical compaction on the soils.

Ripe, balanced and concentrated grapes enables the elimination of any vinification techniques that would modify the initial harmony of each terroir. Fermentations are very slow, and the wines spend a minimum of 6 months on the total lees. The wines are bottled between 12 and 24 months after the harvest.

The yield is greatly vintage dependent, and averages around 35hl/ha with an annual production of between 12 000 and 16 000 cases.

Since 1992, the Domaine Zind Humbrecht is located at Route de Colmar, Turckheim, in the heart of the Herrenweg vineyard.

Famille Hugel
The first traces of the Hugel family in Alsace can be traced back to the XVth century.  Some two centuries later, Hans Ulrich Hugel settled in Riquewihr, which had been devastated by the terrible Thirty Years War. In 1639 he was made a freeman of the city and soon took charge of the very powerful Corporation of Winegrowers.  In 1672 his son built a fine house in the Rue des Cordiers, and over the doorway was carved the family crest which was the origin of the company’s logo still used today.  During the XVIIIth and XIXth centuries, the Hugel family gained an enviable reputation for their winegrowing skills and for the meticulous way in which they cultivated their vineyards. 
 In 1902, Frédéric Emile Hugel left the old family property and established himself in premises in the centre of Riquewihr which still form the heart of the family business 

 Albert Boxler (-from the Kermit Lynch website)

The small family domaine in France that works traditionally using techniques and savoir faire passed down across multiple generations is under serious threat today. Consolidation, technology, regulation, foreign investment, globalization, and many other factors (all in the name of progress), threaten the great agricultural tradition of winegrowing in France, arguably the world’s greatest winegrowing culture. Few domaines in France embody this way of life more ably and proudly than Domaine Albert Boxler in Niedermorschwihr. Jean Boxler, many generations removed from his ancestor of the same name that moved here from Switzerland in 1673, currently rules the roost at this humble yet incredibly exciting domaine. Intense and serious about his land, his craft, and his wine, Jean is the genius behind what are certainly some of the finest white wines in Alsace (and the world). 

World War II brought Jean’s grandfather Albert back to Niedermorschwihr from Montana, where he was busy enjoying the natural gifts of big sky country. After the war Albert returned to the family domaine in time to harvest the 1946 crop. He became the first generation to bottle the family’s production himself and commercialize it under a family label. The wine still wears a label drawn by his cousin in 1946. Albert’s son Jean-Marc continued the tradition for several decades until passing the baton to his son Jean in 1996. 

The family’s holdings are centered around the ancient village of Niedermorschwihr in the Haut-Rhin, dominated by the imposing granite hillside grand cru, Sommerberg. Jean vinifies micro-parcels within this cruseparately, de-classifying some into his Réserve wines and producing multiple bottlings of Sommerberg from the different lieux-dits depending on the vintage. Sommerberg gives racy, intensely structured, very long-lived wines. Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Blanc are the specialties of the domaine, Jean also produces one of Alsace’s best Crémants (and Edelzwickers), an incredible Gewurztraminer grown in limestone, and some of the most hauntingly pure Vendanges Tardives and SGNs in all of Alsace. If that weren’t enough, the Boxlers also own land in the powerful grand cru Brand, the ultimate counterpart to their holdings in Sommerberg. 

The Sommerberg hillside terminates in Jean’s driveway, making it easy to basically live in the vineyards, ensuring exceptionally healthy fruit year after year. After harvest, the wines are vinified and aged in old foudresin a small cellar underneath the family home until bottling. Not much has changed over the centuries; not much has needed to. Tasting through the entire range of Boxler’s wines is ample proof of the fact that Alsace, along with Burgundy, is the source of the world’s most complex, exciting white wines, and will probably always be.

Wine Tasting: Independent Producers (Naked Wines)

As the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board (PLCB) has loosened restrictions on consumers' access to wine sales from out of state in the last few years, a number of Internet Wine Clubs have opened up their services to Pennsylvania residents, allowing them to select and purchase wine online and have it shipped directly to their homes or businesses. 

In this most recent class of mine, we sampled an array of wines from Naked Wines  https://us.nakedwines.com//  which is based in California and supports independent growers and winemakers from around the world, including France, Italy, Spain, Australia, New Zealand and California.

Overall, class attendees were impressed with the quality of the wines, although the Rod Easthope Sauvignon Blanc caused some dissension among the ranks; on the other hand, Oscar's White Douro was a clear winner to several imbibers, including myself.

As for the reds, the Arabella Shiraz and the Karen Birmingham Zinfandel were highly appreciated in both classes, and for Pinot Noir aficionados, the Scott Kelly from Oregon was very impressive, especially given its price point. In fact, this was the real standout for me, as much as I liked the Arabella and the Birmingham.

The Minervois and the Cabernet Sauvignon were quite average and did not leave a lasting impression. But remember, if you're not satisfied, just ask for your money back and you will be credited promptly with no hassle with Naked Wines policy.  I've only had to do this once and it was no problem.  

In general, their wines are of good quality and a good value - mostly in the $10-20 range once you're a member.  So if you're in the market to shop online for wines, this may be a good place to start.

Rod Easthope Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2017

 

Appellation/Region: Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 

Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes:  On the nose notes of gooseberry, elderflower, fennel; bright, zesty acidity; passion fruit and citrus flavors; medium bodied; long finish

Food  Pairing: seafood, hard cheeses, goat cheese salad, aperitif

Alcohol: 12.5%

Oscar’s (Quevedo) White Douro 2016

Appellation: Douro, Portugal

Varietals: Viosinho (50%), Gouveio (45%), Arinto (5%)

Production/Tasting Notes: Crushed and pressed berries were fermented with temperature control at 18ªC; after fermentation, aged for two month on the lees; bottled in February 2017; full nose of tropical fruits backed with some citrus, reminiscent of pear, passion fruit, and lemon zest blended with a touch of white pepper; smoothly textured, medium to full bodied white; limoncello, fine minerality; finishes with clean citrus flavor that lingers on and excites the taste buds.

Food pairing: seafood, salads, aperitif

Alcohol:  13%

Benjamin Darnault Minervois 2015

Appellation : Minervois Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP)  (Languedoc-Roussillon, SW France)

Varietals: Old Vine Grenache blend

Production/Tasting Notes:  rich, ripe berry flavors, smooth, medium-bodied

Food Pairings: roast pork;

Alcohol: 13%

Scott Kelley Pinot Noir 2016

Appellation/Region: Oregon

Varietal: 100%  Pinot Noir

Production/Tasting Notes: Fermented in concrete and oak vessels; aromas of black cherries, berries, hints of vanilla, toasty spice; juicy, light to medium bodied

Food  Pairings :  chanterelle mushroom risotto; roast chicken, pizza, burgers

Alcohol: 14.5%



F. Stephen Miller Cabernet Sauvignon 2016




Appellation/Region: Sierra Foothills, California
Varietals: 100%  Cabernet Sauvignon
Production/Tasting Notes:  dark red fruit, silky vanilla and spice; full-bodied
Food Pairing: grilled porterhouse steak with grilled asparagus; robust red pasta sauces
Alcohol: 14.5%

Arabella Reserve Shiraz Viognier 2016

Appellation: Western Cape, South Africa

Varietals: 95% Syrah, 5% Viognier

Production/Tasting Notes: rich plummy, jammy fruit; moderate acidity and tannins; soft, silky finish with addition of Viognier;

Food  Pairing: beef, lamb, spicy foods

Alcohol: 14.5%

Karen Birmingham Zinfandel 2015 

Appellation/Region :  Lodi, California

Varietal: 100%  Zinfandel

Production/Tasting Notes: Aged in oak barrels; blend of new and old vine fruit; aromoas of licorice, fennel, perfume; smooth; woodsy dark berries; peppery finish

Food Pairings: Burgers, barbecue ribs, grilled meats, hearty pasta/lasagna

Alcohol: 15% 

Notes on Winemakers

Scott Kelley: The Pinot Noir expert who made Robert Mondavi Private Selection and Estancia Pinot Noir for over a decade.

Karen Birmingham honed her wine-making skills  working for years at sustainable winery LangeTwins (with David Akiyoshi).

Consultant oenologist Benjamin Darnault has clients all over the South of France, which means he gets to cherry-pick the very best grapes the region has to offer. Voted 2011 Winemaker of the Year by UK Naked Wines members.

Rod Easthope left his full-time post as Chief Winemaker at Craggy Range, New Zealand's most iconic winery, to set-up-shop alone and make an exclusive range of wines just for Naked Wines, using grapes from Hawke's Bay, Marlborough and Central Otago.

Stephen de Wet was selected as 2009 Winemaker of the Year by UK members. Grows grapes in the Robertson Valley in South Africa. Started the Arabella winery from scratch in 2006.

Interview with Rowan Gormley, Founder of Naked Wines

Right, ok, so give me the lowdown on Naked Wines:

Well, the idea behind Naked Wines is that: you shouldn't need to be rich to drink great wine. Because great wine doesn't cost a lot of money to make - it only costs a lot of money to sell.

We are a subscription-based, crowdfunded wine retailer. The business model is a virtuous circle: so our customers crowdfund our wine makers. That means the wine makers don't need to waste time and money selling to the customers, which means they are able to give us the wine at preferential prices and we pass those onto our customers.

You started Naked Wines in 2008 during an economic downturn, how was it getting this new business model up and running during that time?

Well, I think probably because it was such a bizarre time, that was what probably made us bold enough to say: instead of just setting up a slightly better wine retailer, offering slightly better product, at slightly better prices – it made us bold, and said: if we're going to change people's behavior in the middle of a down-turn, we need to offer something that is so fantastic that even in a downturn people will change their behavior.

What was the original reaction to the business model? Because I guess crowdfunding wasn’t as well-known back then.

I don't think the word had even been invented then!

I think the reaction - there just wasn't one. We'd get about 20 orders a day. We were all sitting there twiddling our thumbs. 

Then, somehow the flywheel starts turning, and starts gaining momentum. It's partly that we got the message right and we got the execution right on the site. It was also about building up a core of customers, that when someone went along to the website and said: “what's all this Naked Wine stuff?” there were other people there for them to talk to.

How long did it take for you to turn a profit?

We turned profitable halfway through our third year, and we've been profitable ever since.

What’s the stats?

We've sold 10 million bottles of wine last year (2013) 200 000 Angels, who are the people that fund us, who give us 60 million EUR a year to invest in wine.

I came across Naked Wines through vouchers I’ve seen in deliveries from Amazon for example, and I noticed on your site as well, that you go on it say “do you have a voucher”. 

It seems to be quite a prominent marketing tool; I just wanted to know what the idea behind this was?

The idea was – to get people to change their behavior is pretty hard. To get people to try something new is pretty hard. And we're confident that once people have tried it, they'll keep buying. So being such a good deal, people who would normally go “no I can’t be bothered” give it a shot.

What do you think was the biggest challenge when setting up this business?

Definitely people. When we set up Naked Wines in the UK it was very straightforward. Because seventeen of use left, we were quite a cohesive team, everybody knew the other people could do their job so everyone just focused on getting their own job done – and I had the luxury of being able to take only people who I knew were brilliant.

When we set up in the US for example, we've got 65 staff in the US, and I just never really appreciated how hard it is to hire effectively. And after I've made a few mistakes, I started reading about it and saw that it's not unusual to be... that 1 in 2 is a good hit rate. We're a small business, it's a tough thing to be dealing with. So definitely people is the hardest thing.

Did you come across any tips you'd give to other people who are hiring?

I tended to hire people who were like me – instead of hiring people who were complementary to me, and had strengths where I was weak.

The second thing is, you go through the interview process, offer someone a job - and by lunch time on their first day you knew they were wrong for the job. We thought “How do we take that first morning of the job and actually put it into the interview process so that we can avoid those mis-hires?” and that's been very effective.

And lastly what do you think was kind of key to your success so far?

Never giving up. I think it’s key to being an entrepreneur. It's not creative genius, or technical ability; you just got to really want it.. Almost always your first idea doesn't work.

-          YPHonline.com  6/24/2014

A Taste of Sicily

In the not too distant past, Sicilian wines were not much to write home about; indeed, no one really wrote home about them, except perhaps to say how wasted they got on cheap plonk while stumbling around Palermo or Mt Etna or Siracusa.  And most people just associated Sicily with the Godfather movies.  How things (and the vino) have changed!  At the most recent wine dinner I conducted with a small group of friends who meet semi-regularly,  the verdict was in - perhaps the best tasting yet!  This is just anecdotal evidence of how far Sicilian wines have come, and we were sampling only the mid-range-priced wines - most for less than $20!

There are quite a few indigenous varietals on this Mediterranean island (scroll down for descriptions), and except for the Nero d'Avola-Syrah blend, we stuck to these wines for they offer such distinctive and delightful flavor profiles. (Sicily also produces its share of common noble varietals to cater to the international market.)  Between the two white wines, the Insolia was the stunner, especially for around $12 a bottle, although I also enjoyed the bright, fresh and lively Grillo as well.

Among the reds, every one seemed to have their favorite, but it seemed that the Etna Rosso and the SantAgostino made the most waves.

All wines were purchased at WineWorks in Cherry Hill, NJ, but they should also be available in PA and Delaware stores.

If you have yet to experience Sicilian fruit of the vine, you're in for a real treat!

Cincin!!

Tami’ Grillo 2015

                  

Appellation: Terre Siciliane Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT)

Varietal: 100% Grillo

Production/Tasting Notes:  Direct press, then fermented and aged in stainless steel for 6 months; short maceration (1 week) then six months in stainless steel; filtered because of its young  age. The Tami project was an idea that came to me a few years ago, and that was to prove that it's possible to make good, simple, natural wine in Sicily. Tami is something I've started with some friends who own vineyards in Contrada, a district close to mine. Three years ago, we agreed we would convert their vineyards to organic viticulture. In 2009, we made the first "all grape" vinification. The goal was to take good grapes and make a simple, every day wine. There is a white, and two reds. – Ariana Occhipinti, winemaker

Food Pairings: Macaroni with fresh lemon and cream sauce; lemon chicken; walnut-rolled goat cheese with honey

Alcohol: 12.5%


Cusmano Insolia 2016

               

Appellation: Terre Siciliane IGT

Varietal: 100% Insolia

Production/Tasting Notes: Cold pressing with skins and first fermentation at 8°C for around 12 hours, soft second pressing; cold decanting and fermentation at 18°-20°C; 4 months on the lees in stainless steel containers, and successive fining in the bottle; average 16 year-old vines; aromatic, displays nutty, citrusy characters with herbal notes.

Food Pairings: Risotto with mushrooms and walnuts; salmon sashimi; steamed clams with butter

Alcohol: 13%



Firiato Le Sabbie dell’Etna Etna Rosso 2013



Appellation: Etna  Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC)

Varietals: Nerello Masacalese, Nerello Cappuccio

Production/Tasting Notes: Hand-harvested; 14-day fermentation in steel tanks; 12 months aging in durmast Slovenian casks; 6 months maturation in bottle; minerally, ripe and elegant notes unfold  into alternating intense and distinct hints of blackcurrants, prune jam, black cherries, licorice, pepper and wilted violet; palate: well-balanced and harmonious, rich, warm, refined with suave tannins; lingering aroma, juicy finish.

Food Pairings: Pigeon breasts in red-wine sauce; wild mushroom and eggplant filo parcels; linguini with tomato and clams

Alcohol: 13%

Tami’ Nero d’Avola 2016

               

Appellation: Terre Siciliane IGT

Varietal: 100%  Nero d’Avola

Production/Tasting Notes: One week maceration on skins; fermented and aged in stainless steel for 6 months; see below for further tasting notes under Nero d’Avola

Food pairings: Chicken salad with pomegranate, pinenuts and raisins (rosé)
Caramelized barbecued pork patties (bun cha)
Charcoal-grilled rump steak

Alcohol: 13%


Valle dell’Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2013



Appellation : Cerasuolo di Vittoria Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) (Sicily’s first DOCG)

Varietal: 60% Nero d’Avola, 40% Frappato

Production/Tasting Notes: Fermented using indigenous yeast in stainless steel; aging: combination of stainless steel (for Frappato) and oak (for Nero d'Avola) for 12 months, and an additional nine months in bottle; delicately smoky aromas of red fruits, plum, camphor and herbs, lifted by a bright floral nuance (Frappato); plush and gentle, plum and black cherry flavors (Nero d’Avola); firm, fine-grained tannins. (Alternate take: fresh berry, rose-petal and citrus character with green-tea undertones?)

Alcohol: 13.5 %


Firiato Santagostino Baglio Soria 2011



Appellation: Sicilia IGT

Varietals: Nero d’Avola, Syrah

Production/Tasting Notes: 10-day fermentation in steel tanks; malolactic fermentation; 8 months aging in American durmast barriques; 6 months maturation in bottle; well-defined nuances of marasca cherries, wild berries, rhubarb, cloves, aromatic herbs and prunes that alternate and blend with charming hints of licorice, ink and tobacco leaves; on the palate suave, soft and caressing; silky, fine tannins.

Food pairings: Sicilian eggplant and tomato stew (caponata)
Braised pork knuckle
Chilli con carne

Alcohol: 14.5%

Factoids about Sicilian Wines

• There is evidence of vine training and wine production from the earliest settlements of the Phoenicians on Sicily’s west coast and the Greeks on Sicily’s east coast from the eighth century B.C.
• The Greek colonists brought their cultivated knowledge of vine training and winemaking to southern Italy and Sicily beginning with their earliest settlements.
• Thomas Jefferson procured a 400-liter barrel that of Woodhouse’s Marsala wine for his Monticello wine cellar through the office of the U.S. secretary of the navy.
• Before the 1950s there were few producers of quality wine in Sicily.
• In 1985, Diego Planeta assumed a role that put him at the center of the Sicilian style and quality revolution of the 1990s when became president of the Istituto Regionale della Vitee del Vino (IRVV, “Regional Institute of Vine and Wine”).
• From about 1995 to 2005, private Sicilian companies rapidly developed quality bottled wine for the international market.
• A Sicily-wide IGT, Sicilia IGT, was created in 1995. By the end of the 1990s, Sicilia IGT wines, many featuring Nero d’Avola, increasingly dominated the sold-by-the-bottle market. As of 2008 more than 25 percent of all Sicilian wine, bulk and otherwise, was bottled at the IGT level, and Sicilia IGT was and remains by far the largest category of Sicilian bottled wine. In 2011, it was promoted to DOC status.

• Terre Siciliane is the region-wide IGT title for the island of Sicily. It was created in November 2011, to take the place of the erstwhile 'Sicilia IGT', which had just been promoted to DOC status (as Sicilia DOC). The name Terre Siciliane translates literally as 'Sicilian lands'.  In keeping with the stylistic freedom of the IGT category, Terre Siciliane IGT wines can be made in virtually any style: red, white or rosé, still or sparkling, dry or sweet. Naturally, given Sicily's strong focus on its traditional grape varieties, the likes of Catarratto, Grillo, Inzolia, Nero d'Avola and Nerello Mascalese will feature strongly in wines produced under the title. But the island is also known for its focus on the international wine market, and thus the 'international' grape varieties (e.g. Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay), so these will also make up an important part of the Terre Siciliane wine portfolio over time.

Indigenous Grape Varieties of Sicily

Whites

CATARRATTO-  The wine’s color is pale straw yellow with green tints. It smells mildly fruity and has notes of fresh straw. Compared to other white varieties, Catarratto makes wine with moderate alcohol levels and high acidity. The wine has a bitterness that is slight but noticeable, particularly at the back of the palate. This induces winemakers to blend in other varieties with a softer character. Inzolia is Catarratto’s traditional blending partner.

INZOLIA (INSOLIA) -Inzolia (or Ansonica) is an Italian grape variety grown in both Sicily and Tuscany. While it is most famous traditionally as an ingredient in the fortified Marsala wines, it is now seen more and more as a crisp, dry white wine, in blends and as a single variety. Inzolia wines are moderately aromatic, and tend to display nutty, citrusy characters with herbal notes.
     The grape has a long and complicated history. It is thought to have originated on the island of Sicily, and is related to other Sicilian natives like Grillo and Nerello Mascalese, but other sources have argued that Inzolia is related to the Roditis and Sideritis grape varieties of Greece. A grape that goes by the name Irziola is mentioned by Pliny the Elder in Naturalis Historia, but there is no evidence to suggest this is the same variety.
     Today, Inzolia is found across Sicily, particularly in Palermo and Agrigento. It is permitted as a blending grape in many of the island's DOC appellations, adding a nutty weight to wines made with Catarratto and Grillo. Inzolia's tendancy to lose acidity late in the season means that it has long been a building block of Marsala wines, but improved winemaking techniques and a change in fashions has seen Inzolia's place in Sicilian winemaking change significantly.

GRILLO - a Sicilian white grape variety most famous for its role in the island's fortified Marsala wines (Grillo, Catarratto, and Inzolia make up the base wine of Marsala.)
 It is still widely planted on Sicily despite Marsala's fall from fashion, and is now used most commonly in a variety of still white wines, both varietal and blended. Grillo, when vinified to a high standard, makes a fresh, light white wine with nutty, fruit-driven flavors that include lemon and apple.
     There is some debate as to the origins of Grillo, as its earliest mention comes as recently as the mid-19th Century. Some believe that the variety is native to Sicily, suggesting it is the progeny of Catarratto and Muscat of Alexandria. Others have hypothesized that it was brought to the island from the southern Italian region of Puglia. There is even some evidence to suggest that this was the variety in the Roman wine Mamertino, a particular favorite of Julius Caesar.
Grillo is well suited to the hot, dry Sicilian climate. Its high levels of sugar and the ease with which it oxidizes make it a good option for fortification. Unfortunately, Sicily's other great white contender, Catarratto, yields more highly and so became the preferred choice for Marsala, which led to a decline in plantings of Grillo in the 20th Century.
     Happily, as focus has shifted from quantity to quality, Sicilian producers are beginning to revisit and replant Grillo, particularly as viticultural and vinicultural techniques have improved. Winemakers are now able to control thiols more easily, giving Grillo wines with more pleasant, fruit-driven aromas rather than the rather more earthy styles that were previously available. Some commentators have suggested that this is not a true expression of the variety.
     Grillo has become a viable contender for the quintessential Italian table white: light, easy-drinking and often associated with very good value. In this regard it competes with Soave, Gavi and IGT Pinot Grigio.

GRECANICO- Though Grecanico wine lacks aroma, in the mouth it is firm, elegant, and never top-heavy with alcohol, with moderate to high levels of acidity. As a means of lightening and livening up high-alcohol, low-acid white wines, Grecanico could have an important role in Sicily’s future.


Reds

NERO D’AVOLA- the most important and widely planted red wine grape variety in Sicily. Vast volumes of Nero d'Avola are produced on the island every year, and have been for centuries. The dark-skinned grape is of great historical importance to Sicily and takes its present-day name from the town of Avola on the island's southeast coast. The area was a hotbed of trade and population movement during the Middle Ages and Nero d'Avola was frequently used to add color and body to lesser wines in mainland Italy.
     Translated, Nero d'Avola means "Black of Avola", a reference to the grape's distinctive dark coloring, but its exact origins are the subject of debate. The region of Calabria can lay claim to the variety via its synonym Calabrese (meaning "of Calabria"), though this term may be a derivation of Calaurisi, an ancient name for someone from Avola.
     For most of the 20th Century, Nero d'Avola was used as a blending grape and the name very rarely appeared on wine labels. By the turn of the 21st Century, however, the grape's fortunes had changed considerably, and it is now common to find Nero d'Avola produced as a varietal wine as well. It is often compared to Syrah because it likes similar growing conditions (Sicily has a hot Mediterranean climate) and exhibits many similar characteristics.
     Depending on production methods, Nero d'Avola can be made into dense and dark wine that is stored in oak barrels and suitable for aging, or young and fresh wines. Younger wines show plum and juicy, red-fruit flavors, while more complex examples offer chocolate and dark raspberry flavors. The wine typically has vivid blackberry smells. In the mouth, it has moderate to high alcohol, but its most outstanding characteristic is the high acidity that balances the otherwise soft texture.

NERELLO MASCALESE- a highly regarded, dark-skinned grape variety that grows most commonly on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily. Its wines, which have had a rapid upsurge in popularity in the last decade, have a tendency to reflect their surroundings, giving taut, fresh red wines with fruity, herbaceous flavors, excellent minerality and an earthy nuance. Nerello Mascalese wines often have a perfume reminiscent of those of the noble wines of Barolo and Burgundy.
     The variety takes its name from the Mascali plain between Mount Etna and the coast where it is thought to have originated – a small portion of older vines predate the phylloxera epidemic of the 1880s. The prefix Nerello (“little black one”) refers to the black color of the grapes, and is shared by Nerello Cappuccio, Nerello Mascalese's most common blending partner. Both grapes are found in Etna DOC wines, with Nerello Mascalese making up the bulk of the blend and easily surpassing plantings of Nerello Cappuccio.
     The hugely variable volcanic soils of Etna combined with elevations of up to 1000m above sea level – some of the highest vineyards in Europe – help produce wines with immense character and complexity, and without the excessive weight that often characterizes Sicilian red wines from lower altitudes. Nerello Mascalese is a late-ripening variety, and most vines are trained in the traditional bush-vine method, which works well in the terroir.
     Nerello Mascalese vines also dominate the neighboring Faro DOC surrounding the port city of Messina. Set in the hills above the city, vineyards reach impressive altitudes here too, if not quite the dizzying heights of Etna.
     Outside the two aforementioned DOCs, Nerello Mascalese is used in a variety of blends under the Sicilia IGT banner, often alongside the island's dominant Nero d'Avola grape variety. These wines are most often red, but rosé (rosato) is also made. Across the Strait of Messina in Calabria, the DOCs of Lamezia, Sant'Anna di Isola Capo Rizzuto, and Savuto permit the use of the variety in their respective blends.
     The wine is pale cherry red, with aromas of flowers, particularly violets, red fruit, tobacco,and spices, and in the mouth it is lean, with moderate alcohol, high sourness, and moderate astringency. In appearance the wine is very close to Pinot Noir.

NERELLO CAPPUCCIO - Nerello Cappuccio, or Nerello Mantellato, owes its name to the strange shape of its leaves, resembling a cloak (“Cappuccio” means hood in Italian, “Mantello” means cloak). A monovarietal Nerello Cappuccio is medium-dark red in hue and offers aromas and soft flavors reminiscent of ripe red cherry, vanilla, minerals and light coffee; Nerello Cappuccio wines usually have tougher tannins too and a slightly coarser quality to them.
     A dark-skinned grape variety from Sicily, most famous for its application in the red wines of Etna and Faro. It is rarely found as a varietal wine, and usually plays second fiddle to its cousin Nerello Mascalese, which is more numerous in plantings and considered to be of a higher quality. On its own, Nerello Cappuccio makes a wine that is soft and richly colored, with some cherry flavors on the palate.
     The variety thrives in the volcanic soils of Mount Etna, particularly at higher altitudes. Here, the combination of soil and climate result in elegance and structure in the wines. It ripens slightly earlier than Nerello Mascalese, and buds reasonably early; spring frost can sometimes be an issue. However, Nerello Cappuccio is capable of reaching higher-than-average acidity and has plenty of tannin, making it a good choice for vinification.
     Nerello Cappuccio lends its color and perfume to Etna's blended wines, as well as softening out some of Nerello Mascalese's harder edges (see Nerello Cappuccio – Nerello Mascalese blend). These wines often have an evocative perfume, sometimes likened to those of the noble wines of Barolo and Burgundy. There are a few varietal examples of Nerello Cappuccio made in Sicily, but the grape's long-standing reputation as a blending variety mean these have only started to appear in the last couple of decades. These are mostly labeled under the Sicilia IGT title, as are the few rosato examples.

FRAPPATO - a light-bodied red grape widely grown on the southeastern coast of Sicily.  Cherry-colored, aromatic and low in tannins, varietal Frappato wines are light bodied and slightly reminiscent of good Beaujolais. The wines are pale cherry red and lightly structured, very spicy and floral, and loaded with vivid cherry and pomegranate fruitiness.  However, Frappato is found in more blended wines than varietal examples, and this is where the variety really shines.
     Nero d’Avola is its prime blending partner, because of its complementary bodyweight and concentration of color; the two varieties combine to produce a red wine that is typically designed for short-to-medium term cellaring. Frappato wines may also be blended with Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Nocera.

Wine Quote:
A lot of people say, “I don’t know much about wine, but I know what I like.” Maybe you don’t know what you like, because you just keep drinking the same style. The wine world is pretty vast and diverse, and it’s not marriage. You don’t have to be faithful to one style. So don’t impose your comparatively limited experience on every wine you encounter. Try to understand wine styles you’re not familiar with.
- Kermit Lynch, Wine Merchant & Connoisseur