Friday, June 22, 2018

Wines of Alsace (France)

In my latest wine tasting class, we sampled some of the delightful wines of the charming and picturesque corner of the Alsace, located in northeastern France along the German border. Known almost exclusively for its celebrated white wines, including Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Blanc, this area also produces late harvest dessert wines, quality sparkling wines (Crémant d'Alsace) and has entered the red wine market in the form of Pinot Noir. 

Long outshone by the Burgundy and Bordeaux regions, the Alsace has been enjoying a resurgence in popularity among consumers and critical acclaim by wine experts.

Last summer I hosted an Alsatian Wine Tasting and Dinner "down the shore" (New Jersey) and reported on that event in previous blog post (see  http://phillywineguy.blogspot.com/2017/08/alsatian-wine-tasting-dinner.html )

Since it's often hard to tell from the label how sweet these wines may be, I have indicated in the tasting notes the level of sweetness. Late Harvest (Vendange Tardive) wines will be very sweet and are to be enjoyed with dessert.

Almost all the wines were rated as a favorite by at least a few participants, some of them quite being surprised by wines they knew little about previously.  The main disappointment for me as well as the class was the Sylvaner, especially since it was the priciest of the lot.  Although Albert Boxler, the producer, got a very favorable write-up by Kermit Lynch (see notes below), this particular wine left much to be desired.  Typcially, Sylvaner is rather neutral wine with little in the way of aroma, or taste.  Even so, this one had little to offer.  The Sylvaner that I brought back from Alsace last year (Cuvee Z) and which I featured in the tasting referred to above, was very inexpensive and offered more distinctive characteristics and pleasant mouthfeel. It just shows that price does not always indicate how much you may like a wine.

For those of you who enjoy a dry crisp sparkling wine, the Cremant d'Alsace is an excellent choice.  And the Wilm Pinot Gris is a good bargain at about $13 - almost everyone was a fan and estimated its price much higher.  Lastly, the Zind Humbrecht Riesling is hard to beat for a classic dry Alsatian Riesling at a reasonable price.

Cheers!



The Furst ... Cremant d'Alsace Blanc de Blanc (NV)  ($22 PA)




                        

Appellation: Appellation Cremant d'Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100% Pinot Blanc
Production/Tasting Notes:  méthode traditionnelle, with the second fermentation occurring in the bottle; gravel and alluvium soil; on the nose subtle citrus notes and aromas of white flowers.  This is a "Brut" which means it is very dry with very little residual sugar.
Food  Pairing: light seafood, dessert, or on its own as an aperitif
Alcohol: 12%




Wilm Pinot Gris Reserve 2016  ($13 Wine Works, NJ)

                        

 


Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100% Pinot Gris
Production/Tasting Notes: 100% Hand harvesting ; extended and soft pressing ; 4-6 weeks controlled fermentation in stainless steel ; maturing on the fine lees for another 2 to 3 months; nose of ripe fruit - peach, apricot quince; on the palate,  it is both supple and full, with notes of honey and spices. This wine is slightly sweet.(82 points, Wine Spectator)
Food pairing: fish with cream sauce, smoked salmon, duck magret, pan-fried foie gras, grilled or roasted white meats (pork, veal), rabbit, poultry in cream sauce, smoked fish, mushroom dishes such as risotto.
Alcohol:  13%



Albert Boxler Sylvaner 2014  ($26 PA)






Appellation/Region: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100%  Sylvaner
Production/Tasting Notes: Granite soil; 50 year old vines; All grapes are harvested by hand, no fining; after pressing, cold settling before fermentation begins; all natural fermentation;  vinified in foudre ; practicing organic; full-bodied style with a whiff of earth and smoke on the nose, highlighted at the expense of  scant fruit flavors; typically neutral or muted aromas.  This is a very dry wine.
Food  Pairings :  Alsatian onion tart; grilled asparagus with poached egg; seafood chowder
Alcohol: 13%



Rolly Gassmann Pinot Blanc 2014   ($20 PA)





Appellation : Appellation Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100% Pinot Blanc
Production/Tasting Notes:  Biodynamic; hand harvested; indigenous yeast; soil types: limestone, marl, clay, muschelkalk, conglomerate; no irrigation; fragrant aromas with elderflower and a hint of honey; on the palate, luscious and opulent texture, fruity and fresh; apricot, pear, orange, grapefruit and marzipan; lingering finish; aging - 8-10 years.  This wine is as a tad sweet.
Food Pairings: lobster, game fish or with chicken with a rich creamy sauce;  will also pair well with quiche Lorraine.
Alcohol: 13%



Marcel Deiss Alsace 2016  ($24 PA)
 

                        

Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée
Varietals: 13 Alsatian varietals, including Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Muscat, Gewurztraminer and Sylvaner.
Production/Tasting Notes:  Pale yellow color, intense fruity nose show the blending notes of lemon, white flowers, pineapple and yellow peach;  palate is remarkably fruity and distinctive ; saline notes;  complex bouquet, silky mouthfeel, intense finish;some residual sugar
Food Pairing: soups, salads, white meats, fish
Alcohol: 13.5%



Trimbach Gewurztraminer 2014  ($18  Wine Works, NJ)

 

                        

Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée
Varietals: 100% Gewurztraminer

Production/Tasting Notes: Hand harvested; aromas of cinnamon, nutmeg, lychee and rose petal; rich, luscious, intense; well-balanced with dry, spicy finish. (88 points -2015, Wine Spectator)
Food  Pairing: fish or seasoned meats, spicy and exotic dishes, soft cheeses (such as the famous Munster), and a plethora of desserts.
Alcohol: 13.5%



Schoffit  Gewurztraminer Lieu-Dit Harth Cuvee Caroline 2014  ($25  PA) 

 

                               


Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100%  Gewurztraminer
Production/Tasting Notes: Biodynamic; gravelly soil covered by loess; Average vine age 50 Years; hand harvested; fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks; apricot, honey, floral and perfume aromas.  This wine is somewhat sweet. (89 points - 2015, Wine Spectator)

Food Pairings: Porkrich fish (salmon, tuna etc), spicy foodpoultrymild and soft cheese
Alcohol: 13%



Famille Hugel Classic Riesling 2014  ($18.39  PA)





Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100% Riesling
Production/Tasting Notes: Winemaker notes: "Made exclusively from hand harvested grapes from predominantly clay and limestone vineyards, in a dozen of the most favored localities in and around Riquewihr. A cool and long growing season give this unique dry wine great finesse and unequalled intensity."  Bouquet is fresh and lively, crisp and clean, pleasantly aromatic and fruity, green apple, lemongrass, ginger, white peach, fresh moss and blackcurrant, with a touch of muscatel; dry and fresh on the palate, vivacious, nicely taut and elegantly structured, giving depth and persistence; aging potential - 3-5 years to develop full complexity and bouquet. This is a very dry Riesling. (89 points- 2015, Wine Spectator)

Food Pairing: turbot, sea perch, monkfish, lobster, crayfish, seafood, pike-perch, pike, salmon, shellfish, scallops, and carpaccio of raw or marinated fish
Alcohol: 12.5%





Domaine Zinck Pinot Blanc 2015   ($15 Wine Works, NJ)

                         

 

Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100% Pinot Blanc
Production/Tasting Notes: silt, clay-silt; harvest by hand, pneumatic press, static must settling; fermentation in stainless steel tanks with individual heating/refrigeration system, maturation on the lees until the spring; "Notions of baked Mirabelle plums lend their full-fruited aspect to nose and palate. Their softness is countered by fresh lively crispness.... friendly, refreshing and fruit-driven. " Wine Enthusiast, 88 points.
Food Pairing: Shellfish, fresh salads, white meat;  regional dishes: Baeckaoffa, tarte flambée, quiches, fleischnaka; ressed cheeses like Cantal, Salers…
Alchol: 13.5%






Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling (Turckheim) 2015  ($22 Wine Works, NJ)





Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100% Riesling
Production/Tasting Notes: Biodymaic; average vine age 31 years; gravel, silt soil; bright pale yellow/green color; expressive nose, showing intense fruit quality and precise fresh fruit/floral aromatics; flavors of  nectarine, guava, stone and spice; typical palate for a Riesling: freshness, elegance, nice juicy ripe acidity, very dry but not lean, no trace of over ripeness, medium light finish; 91 points, Wine Spectator
Food Pairings:
Alcohol: 12%


AOC Alsace Explained (- Kermit Lynch website)

AOC Alsace wines are generally varietal wines. The wines in which the grape variety appears on the label are 100% the stated variety.


The permitted grapes are the four noble grapes: Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Riesling, and Pinot Gris, completed with Auxerrois (also known as Klevner), Chasselas, Pinot Blanc, Savagnin rosé, Sylvaner, and Pinot Noir.When no grape variety indicated on the label, the wine is typically a blend.


Depending on which varieties are used in the blend, the producer can label the wine as AOC Alsace, AOC Alsace “Edelzwicker,” or AOC Alsace “Gentil d’Alsace.”AOC Alsace blends and “Edelzwicker” can be a blend of any grapes allowed within the AOC. There is no grape minimum; the different varieties may be vinified together or separately. The mention of vintage is optional. There is no technical difference between the composition of AOC Alsace blends and “Edelzwicker”—it is at the producer’s discretion as to how they would like to label their wine.


The denomination “Gentil d’Alsace” is reserved for AOC Alsace wines that fit within the standards of a superior quality blend. This blend must consist of a minimum of 50% of noble grapes: Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and/or Gewurztraminer, the rest made up of Sylvaner, Chasselas, Pinot Blanc, and/or Auxerrois. Before blending, each grape variety must be vinified separately and must officially qualify as an AOC Alsace wine.






Notes on Wine Producers

Pierre Gassmann, champion of biodynamic cultivation in Alsace, insists on late harvesting and lengthy cellaring after bottling, creating amply sweet yet balanced styles. In-depth knowledge of the family estate (a complex mosaic of limestone and marls) and pursuit of low yields promote precise expression of different terroirs.
The Rolly Gassman Pinot Blanc comes from a selection of vineyards located within the village of Rorschwhir, it was harvested at optimum ripeness. Pierre Gassmann considers that the grapes are ripe when the pip has turned orange brown inside the grape.
Harvest is done by hand, as most things at the estate. The philosophy that guides the Rolly Gassmann family centers on as little interference with the vines as possible, rigorous selection of grapes, and the most careful handling of both harvest and vinification to produce wines of the highest quality and specificity.
The grapes are taken to the cellar, gently pressed and taken into individual fermentation tanks where no yeast is added, fermentation is done using indigenous yeast. Each vineyard has its own fermentation tank and is vinified separately. Once fermentation is completed and the wine is left to rest and it is bottled within 11 months from harvest. Fermentation can take a few months to complete depending on the circumstances, bottling normally happens just before the next harvest. The bottles are then laid to rest for a couple of years at least for the less complex wines, more elaborate cuvees will be kept aside for many years before being released, as much as 20 years and more.
Surface under vine: 40 hectares
Organic and biodynamic viticulture: since 1997, Organic certification 1998 by Ecocert, biodynamic certification by Biodyvin / Ecocert in 2002.





  • 5.5ha Thann

      • 6.0ha Hunawihr
      • 2.2ha Gueberschwihr
      • 7.3ha Wintzenheim
      • 19.8ha Turckheim
      • 0.3ha Niedermorschwihr



      Marcel Deiss
      The complantation (art of blending grape varietals in one Terroir) is the most original practice of viticulture in Europe. Long before the winemakers knew about the varieties and become scholar ampelographers, the complantation assumes a regular harvest as noted by Olivier de Serres in his book "The Theatre of agriculture and husbandry fields" (1600 ). Closer to our ear (1852), Jean-Louis Stolz characterized more than 100 grape varieties that cultivars planted in the vineyard in Alsace and described specific complantations in the greatest terroirs of Alsace (Sporen, Schoenenbourg Sonnenglanz, Zotzenberg, Kastelberg, Kaefferkopf). At that time, there were very few pure vineyard, the wine makers gradually realized a real adaptation of a complex vines in the terroir by layering technique (replace artistically a dead vine by its resistant neighbor better adapted) .

      While the grape variety has always been optional for AOC Alsace (Order 1945) and many plots on hillsides were still co-planted in the 60s, the introduction of the legislation which requires the mention of grape variety for Grand Cru (1975 ) can be considered as a historical mistake because it has resulted in a dramatic loss of biodiversity of vineyards, establishment of productive clones and a shift in all varieties. Fortunately, some winemakers have the perseverance and obstinacy, and in 2005, to reform this unjust law (the grape variety is now entirely optional for AOC Alsace and the Grand Cru).

      Bernard Schoffit is a brilliant pioneer in Alsace’s greatest Grand Cru, Rangen de Thann. The domaine started by Bernard’s father, Robert at 10 hectares, is situated near Colmar.  25 years ago, Bernard, then still very young, embarked on an ambitious program of buying land in Rangen, around the Clos St. Theobold.  Totaling nearly 6.5 hectares, a good part of it had been abandoned because it was too steep to work. Through sheer determination and ambition, he has now reclaimed all 6.5 hectares.  From these incredibly steep slopes, with extremely low yields, he is making simply extraordinary wine from each cépage he grows.  Bernard’s gift for wine-making is not reserved only for his Rangen wines.  In his vineyards near Colmar he practices the same rigorous approach to yields, and from a less than one hectare parcel of Riesling on Sommerberg (granite), makes one of the most brilliant wines of that varietal in all of Alsace.  These yields, some very old vines and Bernard’s guiding hand produce wines that are all marked by the following characteristics: intensity, very pure varietal character, great concentration of fruit on the palate and perfect acidity to balance and carry this weight into a long and brilliant finish.

      Domaine Zinck

      From a family that has worked the earth and the vines at Eguisheim for several generations, Paul Zinck created the Zinck Winery in 1964. He started with 2.5 hectares of vines.
      From his earliest days, Paul watched his parents, Henri and Anna, produce wine along with their mixed farming. With time, they started a winemaking business entirely separate from the rest; 1955 saw the first bottling. Paul continued to develop the winery, improving the equipment and quality of the production.
      In the mid-70s, the winery covered 6 hectares. With the help of his wife, Christiane, Paul set up and launched a serious marketing strategy, creating a sales outlet at the winery and offering wine-tastings of his production. His first attempt at exporting was with activities and wine-tastings in Belgium.
      Driven by the same passion as his father, Philippe jointed the winery in 1997 and took over the working of 8 hectares. While respectful of the values of a family-owned business, he managed to create a subtle balance between traditional small-scale methods and new wine-growing and winemaking techniques. His passion for the vines and the earth, combined with his entrepreneurial skills, have brought the winery recognition and, even more, have produced wines with a style unique to the Alsatian countryside.
      Today, the winery, headed by Philippe and his wife Pascale, who joined him in 2007, covers 20 hectares and produces three complete ranges of wine, all regularly awarded by the professionals: the Portrait, Terroir and Grands Crus, topped off by the Crémant and Crémant rosé. He exports to around twenty countries.


      Trimbach
      The wine-growing history of Maison Trimbach dates back to 1626.
      Since then, twelve generations of winemakers have tirelessly drawn on their passion for Alsace wines, ensuring the wines they produce stand out for their quality and authenticity, patiently establishing, from father to son, a solid reputation for excellence.
      Trimbach wine acquired true international acclaim in 1898 when Frédéric Emile Trimbach received the highest distinction at the International Wine Fair in Brussels.
      This success is due in no small part to the jewel in the estate’s crown, the «Clos Sainte Hune» vineyard.
      Today, the family vineyard is run by Hubert Trimbach, his nephews Jean and Pierre, and  Pierre’s daughter Anne, the oldest member of the 13thgeneration. Their enthusiasm and ambition keep the family’s tradition, rigor and know-how alive, bringing their wines to the very peak of perfection.
      Pierre has been in charge of the « technical side » and vinifications when Jean and Anne are traveling all around the world. Julien, Jean’s son, just joined the Family to work closely with Pierre in the cellar.

      Two turrets overlooked by the surrounding vines, a few meters from the heart of Ribeauvillé, pinpoint the F.E. Trimbach estate.
      Situated on the Wine Route, between the vineyards and the mountains, this pretty village, boasting a rich historical heritage, asserts itself as the center of Alsace winegrowing and cuisine.
      Sheltered by the Vosges Mountains and exposed to maximum sunshine, the Ribeauvillé fault line offers a rich mosaic of soils (limestone, sandstone, marl, clay, etc.).
      These natural assets provide the perfect conditions for an array of aromatic grape varieties.
      The 40 hectares that make up the Trimbach estate stretch over more than 50 parcels and 6 villages, including Bergheim, Ribeauvillé and Hunawihr.
      The Trimbach estate strives to produce high quality wines by using integrated, sustainable winegrowing practices. This is demonstrated with the winery’s focus on preserving nature; close pruning, innovative techniques for maintaining healthy vines, tilling the soils, producing moderate yields, and meticulous selection of the grapes used in each wine.
      This rigor, applied to the property’s own vines, is also applied when the Trimbachs purchase grapes from growers loyal to the estate. This is one of the many tasks carefully overseen by Pierre.

      Domaine Zind Humbrecht
      Represented by: Olivier Humbrecht
      Winegrowers father to son since 1620, the Humbrecht family has cultivated their vines in the great terroirs of Alsace.
      Domaine Zind Humbrecht was created in 1959 through the amalgamation of the Humbrecht family vineyards in Gueberschwihr and the Zind family vineyards in Wintzenheim.  Prior to 1959, both families produced and sold their wines under their respective names.
      After taking over the reins from Léonard and Geneviève Humbrecht in 1989, the Domaine is today run by Olivier and Margaret Humbrecht.
      Winegrowing is a tradition in the Humbrecht family that has been passed down from father to son since the 30 Year War in 1620. Canon Barth, an historian of Alsatian wine, recounts that the Humbrecht family was a tenant of the Marbach Abbey vineyards near Gueberschwihr in the 18th century.  However, it was only in 1947 that the Humbrecht family began producing, vinifying and selling their wines under the Humbrecht name.
      Domaine Zind Humbrecht today comprises of 41.1 hectares of vines, spread out over the following 6 communes:
        The expression of terroir, conveyed through grape varieties of Alsace, is reinforced by cultivating the vines organically and according to biodynamic principles. Great lengths are gone to each growing season to produce the best quality grapes from each vineyard. As respect for the vine and soil life is imperative, the viticultural tasks are carried out by a team of 22 dedicated staff members. The high ratio of vineyard worker to vineyard surface enables an attention to detail and the execution of many of the viticultural tasks manually. In addition, animal traction and the use of their own compost help to reduce the impact of mechanical compaction on the soils.
      Ripe, balanced and concentrated grapes enables the elimination of any vinification techniques that would modify the initial harmony of each terroir. Fermentations are very slow, and the wines spend a minimum of 6 months on the total lees. The wines are bottled between 12 and 24 months after the harvest.
      The yield is greatly vintage dependent, and averages around 35hl/ha with an annual production of between 12 000 and 16 000 cases.
      Since 1992, the Domaine Zind Humbrecht is located at Route de Colmar, Turckheim, in the heart of the Herrenweg vineyard.


      Famille Hugel
      The first traces of the Hugel family in Alsace can be traced back to the XVth century.  Some two centuries later, Hans Ulrich Hugel settled in Riquewihr, which had been devastated by the terrible Thirty Years War. In 1639 he was made a freeman of the city and soon took charge of the very powerful Corporation of Winegrowers.  In 1672 his son built a fine house in the Rue des Cordiers, and over the doorway was carved the family crest which was the origin of the company’s logo still used today.  During the XVIIIth and XIXth centuries, the Hugel family gained an enviable reputation for their winegrowing skills and for the meticulous way in which they cultivated their vineyards. 
       In 1902, Frédéric Emile Hugel left the old family property and established himself in premises in the centre of Riquewihr which still form the heart of the family business 


       Albert Boxler (-from the Kermit Lynch website)

      The small family domaine in France that works traditionally using techniques and savoir faire passed down across multiple generations is under serious threat today. Consolidation, technology, regulation, foreign investment, globalization, and many other factors (all in the name of progress), threaten the great agricultural tradition of winegrowing in France, arguably the world’s greatest winegrowing culture. Few domaines in France embody this way of life more ably and proudly than Domaine Albert Boxler in Niedermorschwihr. Jean Boxler, many generations removed from his ancestor of the same name that moved here from Switzerland in 1673, currently rules the roost at this humble yet incredibly exciting domaine. Intense and serious about his land, his craft, and his wine, Jean is the genius behind what are certainly some of the finest white wines in Alsace (and the world). 

      World War II brought Jean’s grandfather Albert back to Niedermorschwihr from Montana, where he was busy enjoying the natural gifts of big sky country. After the war Albert returned to the family domaine in time to harvest the 1946 crop. He became the first generation to bottle the family’s production himself and commercialize it under a family label. The wine still wears a label drawn by his cousin in 1946. Albert’s son Jean-Marc continued the tradition for several decades until passing the baton to his son Jean in 1996. 

      The family’s holdings are centered around the ancient village of Niedermorschwihr in the Haut-Rhin, dominated by the imposing granite hillside grand cru, Sommerberg. Jean vinifies micro-parcels within this cruseparately, de-classifying some into his Réserve wines and producing multiple bottlings of Sommerberg from the different lieux-dits depending on the vintage. Sommerberg gives racy, intensely structured, very long-lived wines. Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Blanc are the specialties of the domaine, Jean also produces one of Alsace’s best Crémants (and Edelzwickers), an incredible Gewurztraminer grown in limestone, and some of the most hauntingly pure Vendanges Tardives and SGNs in all of Alsace. If that weren’t enough, the Boxlers also own land in the powerful grand cru Brand, the ultimate counterpart to their holdings in Sommerberg. 

      The Sommerberg hillside terminates in Jean’s driveway, making it easy to basically live in the vineyards, ensuring exceptionally healthy fruit year after year. After harvest, the wines are vinified and aged in old foudresin a small cellar underneath the family home until bottling. Not much has changed over the centuries; not much has needed to. Tasting through the entire range of Boxler’s wines is ample proof of the fact that Alsace, along with Burgundy, is the source of the world’s most complex, exciting white wines, and will probably always be.



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