Wine Tasting - Spain Revisited April 2023

 It's been several years since I last led a tasting on Spanish wines (although I did do a wine report in conjunction with my trip to Barcelona right before the Covid lockdown in the spring of 2020), but with the continuing development of Iberian wine regions producing ever higher quality and good value fruit of the vine, it's always the right time to check out what's going in the fincas, viñedos and bodegas.  Spain is much more than just Rioja and Sherry, so here are some selections from an array of varietals and regions for your taste and enjoyment.  Olé y Salud!

Please note that for the 3rd class, I selected an alternate wine list for the same varietals and/or regions, so you have here a couple of options for each style!

Ossian Quintaluna Verdejo Seleccionado de Segovia 2019 ($20, Wine Works, Cherry HIll, NJ)

Origin: Castilla y Leon, Vino de la Tierra, Certificacion de Origen

Varietal: 100% Verdejo

Production and Tasting Notes: Stainless steel fermentation; aged 6 months on the lees in both stainless steel and oak; aromas of white flowers, orchard, stone fruit (peaches), citrus (lemon, Mandarin), with hints of tropical fruit; complex palate showcasing bright acidity, and almond and ripe fruit flavors; fresh grass and aniseed on the finish. (92 points, James Suckling)

Food  Pairing: shellfish; seafood; summer salad; goat cheese

Alcohol: 14%

 

Valdihuete  2021 ($9, Chairman's Select, PA; suggested list price $17)

Origin: Rueda, Denominacion de Origen (DO)

Varietal: 100% Verdejo

Production and Tasting Notes: Stainless steel fermentation; unoaked; aromas of white flowers, white fruit (pear, green apple), mineral, stony notes; vegetable nuances of fennel, herbs, brushwood; elegant, broad and persistent on the palate.  (90 points, James Suckling)

Food  Pairing: shellfish; seafood; summer salad; goat cheese

Alcohol: 12.%

Eulogio Pomares Zarate Albariño 2021 ($20, Wine Works)

Origin: Val do Salnes, Rias Baixas, Denominacion de Origen (DO)

Varietal: 100% Albarino

Production/Tasting Notes: Biodynamically farmed vines; granite soils; partial malolactic fermentation; 3 months on lees; crisp, fresh exhibiting linear, steely style; vibrant acidity; aromas of soft peach and pear with floral notes.  (94 points, Decanter)

Food pairing: aperitif; grilled white meats; fish; seafood; hors d'oeuvres; paella with lobster and chorizo

Alcohol:  12.5%

 

Martin Codax Albariño 2021 ($17.69, PA)

Origin: Rias Baixas, (Galicia) DO

Varietal: 100% Albariño

Production/Tasting Notes: Bright acidity, crisp minerality; notes of pear, passion fruit, apple; lemon, grapefruit; persistent, rounded, full-bodied on the palate.

Food pairing: aperitif; grilled white meats; fish tacos; seafood; hors d'oeuvres; paella with lobster and chorizo

Alcohol:  12.%

Dominio de Tares La Sonrisa de Tares Godello 2021 ($15, Wine Works)

Origin:  Bierzo, DO

Varietal: 100% Godello

Production/Tasting Notes: Slate, schist over clay soil; aged 5 months in stainless steel tanks on the lees; notes of white flowers, green apples, peach; smooth texture on the palate; refreshing acidity; long finish

Food Pairing: seafood ceviche; fish tacos; ahi tuna poke bowl

Alcohol:13.5%

 

Maruxa Godello 2019 ($19, PA)

Origin:  Valdeorras, DO

Varietal: 100% Godello

Production/Tasting Notes: Gently ripe flavors of white peaches, nectarines; hint of smoke on the nose; soft, rounded and juicy on the palate; clean, dry lingering finish.

Food Pairing: seafood ceviche; fish tacos; ahi tuna poke bowl

Alcohol:13.5%

Descendientes de José Palacios Pétalos Bierzo 2020 ($19, Wine Works)

Origin: Bierzo DO

Varietal: 92% Mencia; 5% other red grapes (Alicante Bouschet, Gran Negro, Pan y Carne, Negreda); 3% white grapes (Valenciana, Jerez, Godello);

Production/Tasting Notes: Slow malolactic fermentation over 2 months with indigenous yeasts in steel and oak vats; 8 months aged in barrels; fruit-driven; juicy, round on the palate; fine, powdery tannins; more balanced with bottle aging. (93 points, Wine Advocate)           

Food  Pairings: grilled duck with walnut pesto; blackened Cajun-spiced chicken; Iberico pork

Alcohol: 14.1%

 

Finca Luna Beberide Mencia Bierzo 2018 ($22, PA)

Origin: Bierzo DO

Varietal: 100% Mencia

Production/Tasting Notes: Clay, slate soil; aged in French oak barrels; nose of black cherry, sweet dark berries, espresso, slate, woodsmoke, smoked meats, cedar, graphite; deep, full-bodied and complex on the palate with creamy mouthfeel; long, complex, tangy finish. (92 points, Wine Advocate, Vinous)  On a personal note, I have to say this is the finest Bierzo Mencia I've ever had in the many years it's been a favorite of mine from Spain.

Food  Pairings: grilled duck with walnut pesto; blackened Cajun-spiced chicken; Iberico pork

Alcohol: 13.5%

Pagos del Rey Condado de Oriza Gran Reserva 2014 ($20, Chairman's Select, PA; suggested list price $40)

Origin: Ribero del Duero, DO

Varietal: 100% Tempranillo

Production/Tasting Notes:  Aged  24 months in French and American oak barrels; rich, powerful; complex notes of spice and leather, balsam wood, cedar and mulberry on the nose; deep, expressive on the palate; concentrated dark ripe fruits (plum, blackberry) flavors; long, elegant finish with smooth mouth-feel. (92 Points, Wine Enthusiast)

Food Pairing: Wild mushroom and eggplant; pasta with red clams sauce

Alcohol:  14%

 

Bodegas Olarra Reciente Gran Reserva 2015 ($16 Chairman's Select; suggested list price $65)

Origin: Rioja, DOCa

Varietal: 90% Tempranillo; 10% Graciano and Mazuelo

Production/Tasting Notes: Aged in American oak; two months on the lees; malolactic fermentation; 31 months oak aged, 45 months bottle aged; smoky and oak-tinged cherry and dark berry scents overlain with floral and spice nuances; broad and chewy on the palate, exuding bitter cherry, cassis and mocha flavors and a hint of licorice; long spicy finish with smoky notes and hint of espresso.  (93 Points, Vinous)  This is a classic example of a Rioja Gran Reserva, and if you able to snag the Chairman's Select discount (in PA wine stores) on a bottle, you may never find its equal at that price.

Food Pairing: Wild mushroom and eggplant; pasta with red clams sauce

Alcohol:  13.5%

Finca Bacara Time Waits For No One Monastrell 2017 ($12, Wine Works)

Origin : Jumilla, Denominacion de Origen Protegida (formerly known as DO)

Varietal: 100% Monastrell

Production/Tasting Notes: Hand harvested;  Aged 6 months in American oak barrels; powerful, intense nose dominated by ripe fruit aromas, with hints of new wood; balanced, round and savory on the palate;  (95 points, Decanter)    

 Food Pairings: roasted red meat; braised ox tail stew; baked eggplant stuffed with lamb mince; blue cheese, cured cheeses

 Alcohol: 14.5%

 

Ego Bodegas Marionette Monastrell- Syrah 2020 ($10, Wine Works)

Origin :  Tierra de Murcia, Indicacion Geografica Protegida

Varietal: 50% Monastrell; 50% Syrah

Production/Tasting Notes: Hand harvested;  separately fermented in stainless steel tanks; aromas of red fruit and floral hints complemented with subtle touches of wood; round finish with refreshing acidity and complex tannins. (90 points, Wine Enthusiast)       

Alcohol: 14.5%

Notes on Spanish Wines, Wine Regions and Wine Producers

·       The top two classifications of Spanish wines are Denominacion de Origen Protegida (previously known as Denominacion de Origen, which still appears on many bottles), and Denomincacion de Origen Calificada (DOCa or DOQ  in Catalonia) which includes only the Priorat and Rioja regions.

·       Both DO and DOCa wines distinguish the duration of aging before release:

o   Crianza - 2 years minimum aging, with at least one year in barrel

o   Reserva - 3 years minimum aging, with at least one year in barrel and 6 months in bottle

o   Gran Reserva - 5 years aging, with at least 2 years in barrel and 2 in bottle

·       Although Spanish wine cultivation dates back thousands of years, French wine merchants were instrumental in bringing about the modern era of Spanish winemaking after migrating (predominantly to Rioja and Penedès) during the Phylloxera infestation of the 19th century.

·       Spain has more land under vine than any other country and ranks third in wine production after Italy and France.

·       Castilla y Leon is Spain's largest wine region and includes many DOs, such as Bierzo and Toro, as well as some quality producers labeled DO Vino de la Tierra.

·       The Ribera del Duero DO was established in 1982, about 120 miles north-northwest of Madrid.  Cultivation under vine increased five-fold from then until 2020, from 12,350 acres to over 59,000.  Today there are more than 300 wineries, including Bodegas Vega Sicilia, one of Spain's most acclaimed, founded in 1864.

·       Monastrell is the varietal known as Mourvèdre in France.

·       The Jumilla DO, created in 1996, is an arid and mountainous region northwest of Murcia, with a heritage in old vine Monastrell.

·       Rias Baixas, a DO in the Galicia region of northwestern Spain, adjacent to Portugal's northern border, is best known for its Albariño (Alvarinho  in Portuguese) wines.

Adventures in Wine Tasting in Southern California

Readers of this blog know that whenever and wherever I'm traveling, if there are any wineries in the region, it has become my duty and mission to check them out as logistics permit.  And then there are those trips which naturally incorporate winery visits into the itinerary.  Such was the case for my recent trip (March 2023) to the San Diego area.

Originally, the plan was to take a tour across the border to the Valle de Guadelupe to visit some of the haciendas and bodegas of Mexico's premier wine region.  Unfortunately, the costs and travel exigencies proved to be more than my friends and I had bargained for.  (I still plan to make that trip one day, but will need to investigate further for more travel friendly options.)  Undeterred, I knew that there were some wine regions in the San Diego County area that were in easy driving distance, so I preceded to scope them out online.

Orfila Vineyards and Winery

There are, in fact, two distinct viticultural areas just southeast of Escondido - the San Pascual Valley, and further to the east, the Ramona Valley.  Given the rural, rugged terrain and terroir, it only made sense to concentrate on one area at a time.  Each area boast 10-12 wineries, most of them being smaller independent, family-run operations, including estate-bottled wines and others sourced from outside the region.

We started out on a gray, cloudy day (which soon turned into a rather rainy afternoon) at the Orfila Vineyards and Winery https://www.orfila.com/.  Although still relatively young, founded in 1994, the 70-acre Orfila estate is one of the larger and more well-established wineries in the area.

The large outside terrace area offers scenic views of the vineyards down below and the surrounding valleys and mountains that extend into the distance.  The wine menu offers an array of mostly red estate and outsourced wines from other California regions - Pinots, Sangiovese, Merlot, Lagrein, Syrah, Tempranillo and few blends.  A tasting of 4 wines costs $25.

Although as a whole, the wines were not particularly distinctive in terms of quality and expression, the Lagrein was the most interesting in that it's a less common varietal, originating in the South Tyrol valleys of the Trention-Alto Adige in northeast Italy. Of a dense, dark hue, exuding dark plum and wild cherry flavors, this strong, full-bodied wine whose history dates back to the 16th century, offers an acidic structure and slightly astringent finish that pairs well with food such as pork chops and venison stew.

A lovely day destination for imbibing in a rustic valley with stunning,  panoramic views, it's an enjoyable escape from freeway driving. Just don't expect to be blown away by the wines.

The next stop on our itinerary were the Mia Marie Vineyards  https://miamarie.com/ just a short jog down the freeway to Highland Valley Road where most of the San Pascual wineries are located.  Be prepared for a very twisting, turning, serpentine country road that wends itself up and down and over large crags and outcroppings in this rugged terrain.  The actual turn off to Mia Marie  is another curvy ascent to a mountaintop that affords panoramic views of the surrounding valley.  Although it was very overcast and about to rain, the vistas were still impressive.

Established in 2017 with a planting of grapes on ten acres of a former 105-acre avocado ranch, this relatively young winery produces estate-only wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Merlot, Sangiovese and Sauvignon Blanc.  A 5-flight tasting was $25 and included Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Tempranillo Rosé, Redmond Red and Grenache.  Other wines are available by the glass.  

The hilltop tasting room boasts a very expansive terrace, part of which is covered and includes the service area, as well as an open seating area where live music is offered on fair weather days.

As the covered seating area with heat lamps was already occupied by a large group of imbibers, we made ourselves comfortable in one of the inside lounges.

As for the wines,  although none were of exceptional distinction or gravitas, there is no doubt that the wine-making was a of serious nature with a strong potential for enhanced development as production and experience matured.  That said, the Tempranillo rosé and the Redmond Blend were quite pleasant and quaffable.  Most intriguing, however, was the Falanghina - available only by the glass or bottle -  which I persuaded the winemaker to offer me a sample.  I had featured this  northern Italian varietal in class last year, and so, was curious to taste an American-produced version as it is rarely planted here in the New World.  A delightful light-to-medium bodied white of crisp, fruity character, the wine tantalizes the nose with white flowers, lychee and sweet pea and refreshes the palate with tangy acidity. 

The third and final stop on the day's enological expedition was at Domaine Artefact Vineyard and Winery  https://domaineartefact.wine/ just down the road off Highland Valley Road.  By this time, the rain was coming down pretty steadily so we had to make a quick dash from the parking lot to the tasting room.  As the tasting proved, it was well worth getting a little damp to delight in the offerings of the small, family-run winery that specializes in Rhone-style wines.

A 4-wine flight costs $25, for either all red, or a red-white combo.  The white selections included a 100% Grenache Blanc ("La Dame Blanche") and a white blend consisting of Viognier, Roussane, Grenahce Blanc and Marsanne ("Les Beaux Blancs).  Fully realized to mirror the wines of the Southern Rhone, the medium-bodied Grenache Blanc exuded notes of lemon zest, nectarine, lime,  and tart apple whereas the full-bodied Beaux Blancs blend incorporated aromas of grapefruit, fresh cut herb and florals, complimented by underlying minerality and bright acidity, for a lingering, complex finish.

The red flight included 100% single varietals of Grenache Noir, Mourvedre and Syrah, plus a GSM blend with a touch of Petite Sirah.  These medium to full-bodied hearty and powerful  reds exhibited classic characteristics of each varietal in a harmonious, balance of red or dark fruit, earthy tones, complex minerality, herb and spice, and a healthy dose of acidity. All were exceptionally well vinified and extracted, and while each was a delightful tasting experience in and of itself, perhaps the Syrah hit the highest note for me personally with its appeal of rich, ripe blackberry, herbal/spice  notes of thyme, bay leaf, and black pepper underlain with hints of leather and vanilla.  These were all robust wines with strong ABVs of 15% or more.

The consensus by the end of the day was that Domaine Artefact had knocked it out of the park wherein each wine we tasted was a winner, so that despite the rainy weather outside, it all ended on a high note as we braved rush hour freeway traffic back to La Jolla for a gastronomic treat of artisan pizza and antipasto at Isola Pizza Bar, which is highly recommended.  https://www.isolapizzabar.com/

Winery Coda

A few days prior to our winery tour in the San Pascual Valley, I had the pleasure of meeting up with another friend at a very cozy and bustling establishment in Encinitas known as the Solterra Winery and Kitchen https://solterrawinery.com/  The winebar/bistro is right adjacent to the actual winery where grapes are vinified from select growers and regions from Oregon down to the Valle de Guadelupe in Baja California, Mexico, with three distinct labels that correlate to where the fruit is sourced. 

Crushing over 80 tons of fruit each year, the winery controls the entire vinification process once the grapes arrive, and it is a testament to the skill and expertise of the wine maker that each of the wines we tasted for the special Happy Hour menu really hit the mark for quality and execution.  And with such an expansive selection of wines of different styles and origins, you're bound to find something you like.  

Not to be overshadowed by the wines, the food menu, an eclectic mix of tapas, flatbreads, salads, charcuterie, paellas and other entrees, does not disappoint, and dishes are prepared with an abundance of mostly locally and sustainably sourced ingredients.  The Happy Hour menu was an especially good deal wherein we regaled ourselves with tasty flatbreads, roasted shishoto peppers, patatas bravas and lamb burgers.

To sum up, if you find yourself cruising down the San Diego Freeway near Encinitas, do yourself a favor, especially if you have a growling  tummy and a thirsty palate, and stop in at Solterra for a satisfying gastronomic and enological experience.