Originally, the plan was to take a tour across the border to the Valle de Guadelupe to visit some of the haciendas and bodegas of Mexico's premier wine region. Unfortunately, the costs and travel exigencies proved to be more than my friends and I had bargained for. (I still plan to make that trip one day, but will need to investigate further for more travel friendly options.) Undeterred, I knew that there were some wine regions in the San Diego County area that were in easy driving distance, so I preceded to scope them out online.
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| Orfila Vineyards and Winery |
There are, in fact, two distinct viticultural areas just southeast of Escondido - the San Pascual Valley, and further to the east, the Ramona Valley. Given the rural, rugged terrain and terroir, it only made sense to concentrate on one area at a time. Each area boast 10-12 wineries, most of them being smaller independent, family-run operations, including estate-bottled wines and others sourced from outside the region.
We started out on a gray, cloudy day (which soon turned into a rather rainy afternoon) at the Orfila Vineyards and Winery https://www.orfila.com/. Although still relatively young, founded in 1994, the 70-acre Orfila estate is one of the larger and more well-established wineries in the area.
The large outside terrace area offers scenic views of the vineyards down below and the surrounding valleys and mountains that extend into the distance. The wine menu offers an array of mostly red estate and outsourced wines from other California regions - Pinots, Sangiovese, Merlot, Lagrein, Syrah, Tempranillo and few blends. A tasting of 4 wines costs $25.
Although as a whole, the wines were not particularly distinctive in terms of quality and expression, the Lagrein was the most interesting in that it's a less common varietal, originating in the South Tyrol valleys of the Trention-Alto Adige in northeast Italy. Of a dense, dark hue, exuding dark plum and wild cherry flavors, this strong, full-bodied wine whose history dates back to the 16th century, offers an acidic structure and slightly astringent finish that pairs well with food such as pork chops and venison stew.
A lovely day destination for imbibing in a rustic valley with stunning, panoramic views, it's an enjoyable escape from freeway driving. Just don't expect to be blown away by the wines.
The next stop on our itinerary were the Mia Marie Vineyards https://miamarie.com/ just a short jog down the freeway to Highland Valley Road where most of the San Pascual wineries are located. Be prepared for a very twisting, turning, serpentine country road that wends itself up and down and over large crags and outcroppings in this rugged terrain. The actual turn off to Mia Marie is another curvy ascent to a mountaintop that affords panoramic views of the surrounding valley. Although it was very overcast and about to rain, the vistas were still impressive.
Established in 2017 with a planting of grapes on ten acres of a former 105-acre avocado ranch, this relatively young winery produces estate-only wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Merlot, Sangiovese and Sauvignon Blanc. A 5-flight tasting was $25 and included Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Tempranillo Rosé, Redmond Red and Grenache. Other wines are available by the glass.
The hilltop tasting room boasts a very expansive terrace, part of which is covered and includes the service area, as well as an open seating area where live music is offered on fair weather days.
As the covered seating area with heat lamps was already occupied by a large group of imbibers, we made ourselves comfortable in one of the inside lounges.
As for the wines, although none were of exceptional distinction or gravitas, there is no doubt that the wine-making was a of serious nature with a strong potential for enhanced development as production and experience matured. That said, the Tempranillo rosé and the Redmond Blend were quite pleasant and quaffable. Most intriguing, however, was the Falanghina - available only by the glass or bottle - which I persuaded the winemaker to offer me a sample. I had featured this northern Italian varietal in class last year, and so, was curious to taste an American-produced version as it is rarely planted here in the New World. A delightful light-to-medium bodied white of crisp, fruity character, the wine tantalizes the nose with white flowers, lychee and sweet pea and refreshes the palate with tangy acidity.
The third and final stop on the day's enological expedition was at Domaine Artefact Vineyard and Winery https://domaineartefact.wine/ just down the road off Highland Valley Road. By this time, the rain was coming down pretty steadily so we had to make a quick dash from the parking lot to the tasting room. As the tasting proved, it was well worth getting a little damp to delight in the offerings of the small, family-run winery that specializes in Rhone-style wines.
A 4-wine flight costs $25, for either all red, or a red-white combo. The white selections included a 100% Grenache Blanc ("La Dame Blanche") and a white blend consisting of Viognier, Roussane, Grenahce Blanc and Marsanne ("Les Beaux Blancs). Fully realized to mirror the wines of the Southern Rhone, the medium-bodied Grenache Blanc exuded notes of lemon zest, nectarine, lime, and tart apple whereas the full-bodied Beaux Blancs blend incorporated aromas of grapefruit, fresh cut herb and florals, complimented by underlying minerality and bright acidity, for a lingering, complex finish.
The red flight included 100% single varietals of Grenache Noir, Mourvedre and Syrah, plus a GSM blend with a touch of Petite Sirah. These medium to full-bodied hearty and powerful reds exhibited classic characteristics of each varietal in a harmonious, balance of red or dark fruit, earthy tones, complex minerality, herb and spice, and a healthy dose of acidity. All were exceptionally well vinified and extracted, and while each was a delightful tasting experience in and of itself, perhaps the Syrah hit the highest note for me personally with its appeal of rich, ripe blackberry, herbal/spice notes of thyme, bay leaf, and black pepper underlain with hints of leather and vanilla. These were all robust wines with strong ABVs of 15% or more.
The consensus by the end of the day was that Domaine Artefact had knocked it out of the park wherein each wine we tasted was a winner, so that despite the rainy weather outside, it all ended on a high note as we braved rush hour freeway traffic back to La Jolla for a gastronomic treat of artisan pizza and antipasto at Isola Pizza Bar, which is highly recommended. https://www.isolapizzabar.com/
Winery Coda
A few days prior to our winery tour in the San Pascual Valley, I had the pleasure of meeting up with another friend at a very cozy and bustling establishment in Encinitas known as the Solterra Winery and Kitchen https://solterrawinery.com/ The winebar/bistro is right adjacent to the actual winery where grapes are vinified from select growers and regions from Oregon down to the Valle de Guadelupe in Baja California, Mexico, with three distinct labels that correlate to where the fruit is sourced.
Crushing over 80 tons of fruit each year, the winery controls the entire vinification process once the grapes arrive, and it is a testament to the skill and expertise of the wine maker that each of the wines we tasted for the special Happy Hour menu really hit the mark for quality and execution. And with such an expansive selection of wines of different styles and origins, you're bound to find something you like.
Not to be overshadowed by the wines, the food menu, an eclectic mix of tapas, flatbreads, salads, charcuterie, paellas and other entrees, does not disappoint, and dishes are prepared with an abundance of mostly locally and sustainably sourced ingredients. The Happy Hour menu was an especially good deal wherein we regaled ourselves with tasty flatbreads, roasted shishoto peppers, patatas bravas and lamb burgers.
To sum up, if you find yourself cruising down the San Diego Freeway near Encinitas, do yourself a favor, especially if you have a growling tummy and a thirsty palate, and stop in at Solterra for a satisfying gastronomic and enological experience.
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