This past Sunday, 60 Minutes broadcast a special report on how climate change is affecting the wine industry. The piece focused especially on France and England, and how wine producers are adapting to changes in the climate, including drought, flood, increasing temperatures in both winter and summer seasons and longer growing seasons. Of particular note is the burgeoning sparkling wine production in southern England. Already there are quite a few wineries that are giving the Champagne region and its dominance of high quality fizzy wines a run for its money. A few years before the pandemic, I had the opportunity to sample some of England's finest sparklers and was duly impressed. So on this New Year's eve, you may want to alter your buying habits and look for some British bubbly. Cheers!
Friday, December 31, 2021
Sunday, November 21, 2021
Value Wines for $12 or Less - a Tasting
For the first time in two years, I held an in-person wine tasting class! A long time coming, we were finally able to commune together around some good value wines while observing safety protocols. I chose some of my favorite moderately priced wines by well-known, reputable producers that do not disappoint and are easy on the budget. Most of these producers feature a full portfolio of wines that run the gamut from affordable "entry" wines to high-end, highly prized cuvées. Whatever your budget, you can be assured of a high quality product that will tantalize your palate.
Of those we sampled, the Joel Gott and the Penfolds appeared to be the overall winners at the remarkable price of about $12; they were certainly my favorites. In addition to these particular wines, I also highly recommend wines Portuguese and Spanish wines as available in the $8-12 range for the budget conscious.
For further information and recommendations on value wines, check out this article by Eric Asimov of the New York Times from earlier this year. https://www.nytimes.com/2021/04/29/dining/drinks/wine-school-cheap-under-10-dollars.html?searchResultPosition=49
Cheers!
Bonterra
Sauvignon Blanc 2020
Origin:
Mendocino,
California
Varietals:
100% Sauvignon Blanc (Organic)
Production/Tasting
Notes: Slow, cool fermentation followed by a few months
aging in stainless steel; aromas of grapefruit, kumquat, mango, passion fruit,
chermoya (banana/pineapple/kiwi). (90 points, James Suckling)
Food
Pairing: Grilled fish; shellfish; ahi tuna salad
Alcohol:13.2%
La Vieille Ferme Blanc 2019
Origin: Southern Rhône Valley, France
Varietals: Bourbolence; Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc,
Vermentino (Rolle)
Production/Tasting
Notes: Light crush followed by pressing in pneumatic press;
stainless steel fermentation; aromas of fresh, (white flesh) fruit; spring
flowers; lemon-citrus; bright acidity;
lively, crisp refreshing palate; long finish
Food Pairing: apéritif; cold
buffet
Alcohol:
13%
Herederos del Marqués de Riscal 2020
Origin:
Rueda DO (Denominacion de Origen)
Varietal:
100% Verdejo
Tasting
Notes: 100% Organic; stainless steel fermentation for 20
days at controlled temperatures between 13 and 16 degrees Celsius; sur lie 1-2 months; aromas of white flowers
and herbs (fennel, fresh grass, verbena); notes of citrus, peach, melon; rich,
full mouth feel; touch of bitterness on the
persistent finish.
Food
pairing: fish, shellfish, chicken; cold meats
Alcohol: 13%
Joel
Gott Sauvignon Blanc 2020
Origin:
Santa Barbara, California
Varietals:
100% Sauvignon Blanc
Production/Tasting
Notes: Long, cool fermentation in stainless steel; aromas of honeydew melon, pineapple, white peach,
pear with citrus notes; ripe, tropical fruit flavors on the palate with crisp,
refreshing acidity; ruby red grapefruit on the long, clean finish.
Food
Pairing: Grilled fish; shellfish; ahi tuna salad
Alcohol:13.9%
La
Vieille Ferme 2018
Origin: Southern Rhone
Varietals:
Carignan,
Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah
Production/Tasting
Notes: grapes lightly crushed and fermented in cement vats
of 150 and 300 hectolitres; aged in large oak barrels for 10 months; notes of
red fruit and Morello cherries, vanilla and red licorice soft tannins; long
finish. (87 points, Wine Spectator)
Food Pairings: roast chicken;
skirt steak
Alcohol:
14%
Bogle
Essential Red 2017
Origin: Clarksburg, California
Varietals:
Petite
Sirah, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Old Vine Zinfandel
Production/Tasting
Notes: Barrel aged
in American Oak for 12 months; notes of cedar, black plums; medium to full
bodied; velvety, plush on the palate; rich, red fruit.
Food
Pairing: cheeseburger; pizza; tomato-based dishes
Alcohol: 14.5 %
Penfolds
Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2018
Origin : Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Coonawarra, Wrattonbully, Clare Valley, Padthaway; South Australia
Varietal:
70%
Shiraz; 30% Cabernet Sauvignon
Production/Tasting Notes: Ten months aging in seasoned oak hogheads; aromatics of red licorice, fennel root and black rose; hints of dried sage, thyme, toasted oak; plum, dark cherry and blackberry on the palate; undertones of vanilla bean, spice, dried rosemary, sage; fine grained tannins provide structure and balance to fruit and length to finish
Food Pairings: grilled meat with roasted vegetable
Alcohol: 14.5%
Notes on Wine Producers
Bonterra
Organic Vineyards
Vegetarian, GMO free, low sulfite, made with organic
grapes. Awarded Winery of the Year in 2016 by Wine Enthusiast. Received
the 2020 California Green Medal in the Environment category, recognized as the
California winery that “best demonstrates Environmental Stewardship through
maximized environmental benefits from implementing sustainable practices.” Awarded the international 2020 Drinks Business
Green Award for Best Organic Initiative, for the Tastes Like Saving the Planet
advertising campaign.
La Vieille Ferme
La
Vieille Ferme, a label of the Famille Perrin, proprietors of Chateau de
Beaucastel, a renowned Chateauneuf du Pape estate, has been producing wines for
over 40 years. The red is mostly sourced from the Ventoux regions in the
Southern Rhône; the altitude of the Luberon brings freshness and finesse to the
whites and rosés.
Marques
de Riscal
Founded in 1858 by Guillermo Hurtado de Amezaga and
first bottled wines in 1862. First
non-French wine to obtain the Diploma of Honor from the Bordeaux Exhibition in
1895. started production of the first white wines from Rueda in
1972. In 1974 he introduced the French variety Sauvignon Blanc in the
area. In 1980 it was one of the driving wineries of the DO Rueda. The DO
Rueda is one of the few European wine regions specialized in the production of
white wine and the protection and development of its native variety, Verdejo. Vinos de los Herederos del Marqués de Riscal has the largest vineyard
owned by the Rueda Denomination of Origin (330 hectares);
in addition, it's one of the first wine producers in the area, as well as one
of the largest in Castilla y Lion.
Joel Gott Wines
Launched in 1996 with
Zinfandel sourced from grapes sourced from Amador County, California. With the
success of the Zinfandel, more varietals were added to the portfolio; now
leasing vineyards in California, Oregon and Washington, and storing barrels in Napa.
In 1999, launched a series of gourmet burger stands in the Bay Area named
Gott's Roadside. Gott Wines are
now partnered with Trinchero Family Estates which markets and distributes the
wines.
Bogle Vineyards
Bogle family has been farming in the Clarksburg (California) region for six generations; their involvement in the wine business spans back 50 years. Warren Vernon Bogle, in the 4th generation, purchased the first acreage after serving in WWII. It wasn't until 1968 that Warren and his son Chris planted the first 20 acres of wine grapes on the Home Ranch. For 10 years, the family grew grapes for other wineries, then releasing the wine under their own label in 1978. The original winery, constructed in 1979, still stands today. In 1989, Warren's son Chris and his wife Patty undertook the winery project in earnest. Chris farmed, while Patty did the books at night, with offices in the family home. Chris proudly grew the wine grape farming operation, reaching his goal of 1,000 acres before he passed away in 1997. Upon his death, Patty dove in, taking over all winery management and leading a core team of staff, many of whom are still at the winery today. Her three children, Warren, Jody and Ryan work in the day-to-day operations of the winery. Awarded 2018 Green Medal Leader Award, which recognizes the vineyard that best demonstrates environmentally sound, socially equitable and economically viable sustainability practices. Starting with the 2017 vintage, all 91 growers were required to implement the California Rules for Sustainability standards. This resulted in 96% of all grapes crushed at Bogle in 2018 being Certified Green.
Penfolds
Established in 1844 by Christopher and Mary Penfold. Mary assumed total responsibility in 1870 after Christopher's death. By 1907, Penfolds had beome South Australia's largest winery. Penfolds Grange, one of the most foremost and revered wines in the world first, was first produced in 1960 by Chief Winemaker Max Schubert. In 1988, Grange was given a heritage listing in South Australia. Penfolds has garnered 29 Winery of the Year awards from Wine & Spirits Magazine, more than any other winery in the world. Koonunga Hill is the "gateway" or entry level label of the Penfolds collection of wines.
Wednesday, August 25, 2021
Wine Dinner à la Bourguignonne
Following a delay of many months, a long-planned wine dinner among a small gathering of old and new friends finally took place recently on a warm Saturday evening in Mt Airy. The host, a wine enthusiast who's attended a number of my wine tasting classes over the years, featured an array of white and red burgundy wines (to which he is unabashedly partial), accompanied by a movable feast of French cheeses, shrimp cocktail, ripe, juicy Jersey tomatoes, rice and rack of lamb, topped off by a decadent selection of pastries and chocolates with a pour of a local Pennsylvania ice wine.
We started off at the home of the host's neighbor with the two white Burgundies: a 2018 Puligny-Montrachet from the Domaine Vincent Bachelet and a Premier Cru Chablis from the Vignoble Dampt.
The Puligny-Montrachet is produced at the family estate in Chassagne-Montrachet in the Cote de Beaune region of Burgundy where Vincent established in 2007 his portion of the original 4th generation estate of 100 hectares which was divided among him and his brothers.
This 100% Chardonnay exudes a particular aroma of tropical fruit, notably pineapple, along with hints of white flowers and orange zest, which carries onto the palate supported by a touch of minerality and bright acidity. The mouthfeel is full, enveloping and expressive; the finish is long and persistent. The host was a little surprised at how fruity the wine came off, more than he had recollected from previous tastings. What is especially notable about the wines of Burgundy, which, with a few exceptions, are produced from just two varietals (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir), is that the expression of the same grape in the same region can vary widely depending on the particular terroir, appellation, and even vineyard, sometimes referred to as lieu-dit or locality. This is especially evident in the Chablis we tasted next.
The Chablis region is the northernmost wine district of the Burgundy region, and because of the somewhat cooler climate, the wines are typically less fruity, more acidic and more minerally, or even "steely" or "flinty". This is why I am especially fond of Chablis (not to be confused with imitations you may have come across growing up years ago when French wine designations were commonly appropriated by unscrupulous wine makers in California and elsewhere). Chablis is also generally only slightly oaked, if at all.
The 2018 Premier Cru Chablis we sampled was from the Mont-de-Milieu vineyard holding of Vignoble Dampt, another family estate that goes back generations and has earned a special HVE (Haute Valeur Environmentale) certification that recognizes its sustainable farming practices. I should add that it is a very good value at just $37 a bottle as fine Chablis are often priced much higher.
Sunday, August 8, 2021
Wine Tasting & Dinner By the Shore - a Recap
After a hiatus of almost 2 years due to some virus pandemic thing you may have heard about, a group of friends gathered by the Jersey Shore the other weekend for another in a semi-regular series of wine tasting dinners for which I select and present the wines. This time I made selections from my own wine cellar, some of which had been previously earmarked for previous tastings that never materialized for some reason, and others which I just thought would be a delightful, cool and refreshing treat for what turned out to be a perfect summer day by the sea.
We started off appropriately with a bubbly from the Loire region of France sourced from Cabernet Franc grapes - a "blanc de noir" as it were, that is, a sparking white wine made from red-skinned grapes. (The juice is extracted from the grapes with no maceration with the skins.) This was quite a hit among the group, and I must say that the "Crémants" of France (sparkling wines from outside of Champagne) are often a very good deal in which you can avoid paying exorbitant prices for highly touted Champagnes. This particular sparkler was in the $20 price point.
The theme of the tasting was actually "A Trip Around the World" and so we continued our exploration with wines from Portugal, Argentina, France, New York State (Finger Lakes) before bringing it all back home to Pennsylvania. According to consensus, pretty much every one was a winner, although there were certainly favorites among the imbibers.
Most of the wines were around $20 or less, but the Saperavi, a special cuvée that is aged for 18 months and then cellared for a few more months, topped out at around $30. I've written previously about the winery near Lewisburg that produces this Georgian-grape wine. https://phillywineguy.blogspot.com/2018/10/ It's definitely worth a visit if you're up in the region.
Cheers to a (halting) return to normalcy!
Du Petit Thuouars Brut Crémant de Loire NV
Appellation: Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) Crémant de Loire, France
Varietal: 100% Cabernet Franc
Production/Tasting Notes: Méthode traditionelle; aromas of apple, pear, brioche; dry, medium-bodied; delicate bubbles.
Alcohol: 12.5%
Herdade do Esporão Monte Velho Branco 2017
Appellation: Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal
Varietals: 40% Antão Vaz; 40% Roupeiro; 20% Perrum
Production/Tasting Notes: Temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks; membrane filtration prior to bottling; average vine age 17 years; aromas of delicate white stone fruits and lemon; firm, intense on the palate; well-balanced with long aromatic finish
Alcohol: 14.5%
Crios Rosé of Malbec 2019
Origin: Valle de Uco, Argentina
Varietal: 100% Malbec
Production/Tasting Notes: Hand harvested; sourced from the highest Andean vineyards at 3700 feet; aromas and flavors of strawberry and gooseberry; dry; delicate; balanced palate and crisp finish.
Alcohol: 14.5%
D’Autrefois Pinot Noir Reserve 2016
Appellation: IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée) Pays d’Oc
Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir
Production/Tasting Notes: 100% aged in oak barrels for 6 months; aromas of cherry, red
Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir
Production/Tasting Notes: 100% aged in oak barrels for 6 months; aromas of cherry, red raspberry; subtle vanilla and spice notes; medium bodied.
Alcohol: 12.5%
Hermann J. Wiemer Gewurztraminer Dry 2017
Appellation: Seneca Lake AVA, New York State
Varietal: 100% Gewurztraminer
Production/Tasting Notes: Hand picked and sorted; whole cluster press; 3-month indigenous yeast fermentation; limited skin contact during fermentation; flowery aromas; hints of fruit and spice distinctive of the varietal; long, vibrant finish.
Alcohol: 12.8%
Fero Saperavi 2017
Origin: Lewisburg, Susquehanna Valley, Union County, Pennsylvania
Varietal: 100% Saperavi
Production/Tasting Notes: 18 months aged in oak; primary grape of the Republic of Georgia; extremely dark grape skin and juice due to red anthocyanin pigment; fragrant, fleshy, grapey, floral; creamy vanilla; faintly herbal meaty notes; moderate acidity; long finish.
Alcohol: 13%
Monday, July 19, 2021
A Primer on Tannins
Soon I'll be reporting on some upcoming wine tastings that are finally being scheduled as people venture out and resume social activities. In the meantime, so that you don't get too lazy in your wine education and knowledge, here's an excellent review of the important role of tannins in wine making and wine appreciation. I've written before about tannins, but it's always good to be reminded of how essential they are for most wines, including reds and whites in terms of structure, aging and appeal.
https://www.washingtonpost.com/food/2021/07/16/what-are-tannins-wine/
Cheers!
Wednesday, March 31, 2021
Virtual Wine Tasting: Value Red Wines for 2021 (Recap)
The other weekend, I held a virtual wine tasting in what has become another in a series of occasional online gatherings to sample, discuss and enjoy wines with fellow wine aficionados. This time I asked participants to choose one or more wines in the list of recommended red wines from my previous blog post. We tasted the following 4 wines which were generally available in local PA wine stores. Although all wines were positively received, the Italian and Argentine wines seemed to have the edge in preference. In any event, they all offer good value and a welcome accompaniment to your dinner dishes.
Zuccardi Serie A Malbec 2019 ($9.99)
Origin:
Valle
de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina
Varietal:
100%
Malbec
Production/Tasting
Notes: Estate grown in Uco Valley; cold maturation for 5-7
days before vinification with native yeasts; partially aged in French oak
barrels; blackcurrant and plum aromas; full-bodied, black cherry and chocolate
notes; velvety finish; structured yet soft tannins. (92 points, James Suckling)
Food Pairing: Steak, burgers,
barbeque
Alcohol:
13.7%
Los
Vascos Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 https://www.taubfamilyselections.com/ ($11.99)
Origin: Colchagua
Valley, Chile
Varietal:
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Tasting
Notes: Estate grown and bottled; produced by Domaines
Baron de Rothschild (Lafite); stainless steel fermentations between 77 80
degress;10-15 days of maceration with frequent pump-overs; 3 months aging in
stainless steel tanks; aromas of red fruit - plum, raspberry, cherry; laced
with notes of ripe strawberries, nutmeg, cocoa, thyme, and black pepper; savory
notes of tobacco, toasted hazelnuts, dark chocolate, tapenade; fresh lively
tannins.
Food
pairing: Barbeque and grilled meats; pizza
Alcohol: 14%
Planeta
La Segreta Il Rosso 2017 planeta.it ($8.99)
Origin:
Sicilia
DOC
Varietals:
50%
Nero d'Avola; 25% Merlot; 20% Syrah; 5% Cabernet Franc
Production/Tasting
Notes: After
diraspapigiatura (destemming), maceration
for 7-14 days; racked then aged in oak; aromas of red fruits, black currant,
mulberry, cocoa, hints of balsamic; flavors
of ripe berries; herbaceous notes; lightly spicy, mentholated finish; soft
tannins.
Food
Pairing: pizza, pasta, burgers; Mediterranean fare;
bluefish
Alcohol:
13.5%
Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese IGT 2016 ($19.99)
Origin:
Veneto
IGT
Varietals:
40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone; 25% Rondinella, 5% Sangiovese
Production/Tasting
Notes: Average vine age 35 years; fermented with native
yeasts in stainless steeel; aged 15 months in second-hand barrels; 7 months in
bottle; aromas of crushed cherries, aged balsamic, delicate spice; lively fruit, tart
edge; angular tannins; moderate acidity; herb-, smoke-laced finish (90 points, Wine Spectator)
Food
Pairings: hearty pastas; pizza
Alcohol:
14%
There's one more one wine (not on the original recommended list) that some people sampled and is also from the Veneto region. It was very well received and is a special bargain as a Chairman's Select if you can still find it:
Zenato Alanera Rosso Veronese 2015
Winemaker Notes
Pair Zenato's Alanera with medium-aged cheeses, cured meats, meaty fish such as sea bass fillet with Extra Virgin Olive Oil, or with braised meats and stews.
This is rich and layered with dark berries, chocolate and hints of hazelnuts. Full-bodied, yet bright and focused. Dusty texture. Drink now or hold. (James Sucking, 93 points.)
Wine
Notes
Los
Vascos wines blend Lafite tradition with the unique
terroir of Chile to create elegant wines that bring exceptional to the
everyday. The vision of Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) to expand their
estate took them to South America in 1988, becoming the first French
viticultural investment in modern Chile. Since then, a comprehensive
modernization and investment program has been undertaken, oriented towards the
production of fine wine using and adapting the viticultural experiences of
Bordeaux and other areas where Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) is
present. Los Vascos is located in Valley de Caneten (Colchagua), a closed
valley in the central zone of Chile, approximately 25 miles from the sea. The
valley provides a perfect microclimate for high quality viticulture, with
Northern exposure to lands uncontaminated by airborne or water-borne
pollutants. Daily on-shore winds provide temperature changes between 68-77°F,
for optimum maturation of the grapes.
Allegrini is the Veneto’s most acclaimed winery, and their Amarone is the gold standard. The Allegrini family has been handing down grapegrowing and winemaking traditions over six generations, playing a major role in the Valpolicella Classico area since the 16th century.
Giovanni Allegrini is the patriarch of the modern estate and has worked hard to develop and perfect major innovations in the art of wine, particularly when it comes to Amarone. He was among the first in questioning local viticultural techniques, revolutionizing accepted practices, and speaking clearly about quality. He was able to combine the science of enology with strict grape selection, and between 1960 and 1970, made some of the Valpolicella's best wines.
The estate is based in Fumane di Valpolicella, just north of Verona in northeastern Italy. Valpolicella, or "valley of many cellars" is an area crossed from north to south by a series of hills, which in succession form three parallel valleys. These valleys are crossed by steep-sided, narrow riverbeds which remain dry except during spring thaws or autumn rains.
With 247 acres of vineyards in the Valpolicella Classico, the Allegrinis nurture a collection of remarkable sites, each with its own personality, soil, and microclimate. Together, they speak to the rich history and extraordinary quality of Valpolicella. All seven vineyards, ranging from the steep hillsides of La Grola to the perfect plateau of La Poja, offer unique, special terroir to express the full range of what is possible in one of Italy’s most prestigious and storied winemaking regions. The family has been a leader in a marrying traditional winegrowing styles with vineyard innovation, introducing modern trellis techniques, site, and varietal selection through meticulous evaluation.
Allegrini's winemaking philosophy is largely based on the concept of "cru" production: a single vineyard dedicated to the production of local varieties destined to become a single wine. These crus have been a success worldwide: The Palazzo della Torre, La Grola and La Poja have set the highest benchmarks for Valpolicella's wines.
Monday, February 15, 2021
The 30 Best Red Wines for 2021 (according to VinePair)
As a general rule, I don't usually post second-hand ratings lists since the main purpose in creating this blog was to offer personal, first-hand assessments and recommendations of wine. However, every once in a while, I come across a list that strikes me as worthy of passing on since I'm familiar with most of the wines featured and heartily grant my seal of approval for recommendation. (I'm especially fond of the Allegrini Pallazzo della Torre Veroneses IGT.) Furthermore, most of them are at very attractive price points and eminently affordable.
So here you have a varied and appealing cross section of wines for your 2021 list that won't break the bank (except if you want an occasional splurge). Cheers!