Featuring Another Southeastern Pennsylvania Winery Worth a Day Trip - Wayvine!

 Eschewing air travel as many of you are doing during the ongoing pandemic, especially in light the recent surge in cases, day trips will be the order of the day for months to come and I'm delighted to recommend yet another winery in Southeastern Pennsylvania which offers a bucolic escape from the congested city - WAYVINE Winery & Vineyard near Nottingham, just a few miles north of the Mason Dixon line off Route 1. 

 http://wayvine.wine/

Managed by the Wilson Brothers, Zachary & James, this relatively new winery features mostly well-known Vitis Vinifera single varietals, such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.  What distinguishes their portfolio, however, from other regional wineries is a grape I haven't seen much of in this area, Carmine, which they vinify as both a single varietal and their signature Chief Red Blend, a powerful, tantalizing mélange of this off-the-beaten-track grape, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. 

I had actually heard good things about Wayvine some time ago, through the grapevine, as it were, and so, determined to take advantage of the warm, sunny autumnal weather we've been experiencing of late, I and my wine-loving buddy, Richard, piled into my Prius and we set off down Route 1 on a bright, unseasonably warm recent Sunday all the way past Longwood Gardens, and Kennett Square (and the best winery in Pennsylvania, Va La,  in Avondale) to the Nottingham exit  to enjoy a leisurely afternoon of wine and song (live music provided courtesy of Amy Faden) on the beautiful, spacious grounds of the Wilson Estate, right next to the rolling vineyards showing off their array of fall colors.

The Tasting Flight du jour featured a dry Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Barbera Rosé, Merlot, the aforementioned Chief Red Blend, and Carmine.

The 2019 Riesling, Richard's favorite of the bunch, started us with on a high note as this was the best Pennsylvania Riesling I have sampled thus far and is a worthy neighbor of the many renowned Finger Lakes issues.  Dry, crisp, appetite-whetting, with high acidity, floral and white grapefruit notes this is a well-balanced, harmonious version of the classic German varietal that marks another step in winning me over to a wine that I had shunned for many decades.

The Pinot Grigio was, as expected, a light, easy drinking white with a subdued nose and palate which demonstrated why it has become so popular among less adventurous wine imbibers.  I enjoyed the Barbera Rosé as a summer kind of pink with just enough pizzazz, tartness and tannic hints of the red varietal to keep it interesting.

Carmine, a three-way hybrid of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carignan developed in California in the 1940s, is a cool climate grape with notable tannins, herbaceous aromas and peppery notes, that seems to have found a welcome home in the challenging terroir of Pennsylvania (as well as New York).   The Chief Red Blend brings all these elements together to produce a bold, juicy red that would pair well with a hearty, cold weather stew.  It happens to top out at $35 a bottle but worth a splurge if you're inclined to support local business.

Wayvine also offers a variety of mostly local craft brews on the premises, including a few on tap.  There is even a short list of hand-crafted cocktails available as well as local cheeses (I especially liked the Seven Sisters from the Farm at Doe Run in Coatesville).  You can bring your own snacks or munchies, but they do encourage you to patronize the food truck which on site.  You may bring your own chairs if you like, but there are plenty available there and during inclement weather, there is limited outside seating under a large, open tent they have set up.  Live music on weekends makes it an especially pleasant way to spend the afternoon.

By the way, the tasting includes a free souvenir wine glass sporting the winery's logo, a nice memento.

So there you have it - another PA winery within an hour's drive or so from Philadelphia very much worth checking out, especially on a sunny fall day. Cheers!

P.S. Here's a link to some more information about local wineries:

https://www.phillymag.com/foobooz/vineyards-near-philadelphia/?utm_campaign=EDIT%3A%20Sunday&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=98175121&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-8hPBz7e0iMQwnwEZjaqH5Z3iQFVjqg70zokKhsY8vFzs9zU5WUSir8fOVTPzVuuVmkrJ7-9FJSjefWaZJQ7INC5wR_1g&utm_content=98175121&utm_source=hs_email

Further Notes on PA Wineries for a Day Trip from Philadelphia

 As an addendum to my most recent post on PA wineries in Lancaster, here's another reference and guide from the Inquirer.  I have already reported on several of these in previous posts, but there are a few other suggestions here that you may entertain.

Keep on tasting!

https://www.inquirer.com/things-to-do/pennsylvina-wineries-vineyards-wine-day-trips-20200725.html

New Adventures in Pennsylvania Wineries

 In these times of pandemic lockdowns when people are staying closer to home and avoiding trips by plane, day outings have become very popular. I've already written about a number of nearby wineries (Southeastern Pennsylvania) which are worth a visit; indeed, my last class focused on PA wineries.

Over the Labor Day holiday, I discovered a few more wineries just a little further afield, but readily accessible within an hour or two from the Philadelphia area.  One of them, Nissley Vineyards, is located on a beautiful, expansive estate comprising over 300 acres near the Susquehanna River, above Bainbridge, PA https://nissleywine.com/ ; the other one, Waltz Vineyards, is a very small, boutique winery, located near Manheim, on a hilltop overlooking undulating fields of corn, soybeans and vineyards https://www.waltzvineyards.com/.  A family-run business, Waltz has produced its own estate wines since 2000, and before that for a few years, grew grapes for the wine-making market, after transitioning from more traditional crops.

Nissley Vineyards

As I arrived at the winery on a late Saturday afternoon, after following the long, winding and descending lane off a country road, I ran smack dab into a wedding party in the process of taking pictures post-ceremony, and was directed on a detour to a large, open grassy field where visitors were parked.  The wedding reception was just starting, but the wine shop was open nonetheless and had received a fair number of imbibers enjoying wine outside adjacent to the tasting room.  

It was an absolutely beautiful afternoon, and surely the bride and groom and their guests were delighting in the perfect weather for an outside wedding ceremony and reception.  Safety protocols for visitors were followed and included limiting the number of customers in the wine shop, and requiring masks while inside.

The standard tasting ($6) consisted of 6 generous selections from the expansive wine list which included native varietals (mostly sweet), fruit wines, as well as familiar European single, blended or hybrid varietals.  Of the 3 dry whites, one rosé, and 2 reds I sampled, the whites were clearly preferable to my tasting.

In the photo above are displayed, from left to right, Seyval Blanc '19  (French hybrid blend); Vidal Blanc '18 (French hybrid blend); Chardonnay Reserve '18; Rosé Select '18 (Vinifera and French hybrid blend); Merlot Reserve '18; and Chambourcin '19 (French hybrid blend).  My favorite was the Seyval Blanc, which happened to be the most inexpensive of the six at $14.90, demonstrating once again that price does not necessarily mean a better, preferred or higher quality wine.  (In fact, I was quite disappointed by the Merlot, which I found to be overly tannic, woody and not well-balanced;  other PA wineries do much better versions, including Waltz - see below.)  I took home a bottle of the  bright, tangy and citrusy Seyval as pleasant souvenir from my visit and as a token of my support for local business, especially in these trouble economic times.  

The Vidal, Chardonnay and Rosé were all appealing, if not particularly distinctive, representations of their varietals or hybrids, but on a lovely late summer afternoon, they served their purpose well enough.

The other red that I tried was the Chambourcin '19 (French hybrid blend).  This is a hybrid widely available  among PA wineries as it seems to have adapted well to the regional climate and terroir.  Unfortunately, this particular Chambourcin left me unimpressed, as I've tasted many other superior renditions at local wineries.  Although it is a lighter bodied red, I found Nissley's a bit thin and lacking in structure and flavor.  I would have liked to try the Cabernet Reserve and Cabernet Franc Reserve, but they were not available. You can never tell when one of them might shine through.

To sum up, whereas Nissley is not necessarily a go-to destination from Philadelphia, if you are in the Lancaster-Elizabethtown area, it's definitely worth a visit as an idyllic rural setting in which to sit back, relax and enjoy a few sips.  (They also serve alcoholic smoothies of different flavors, if that's your thing.)

Waltz Vineyards

Perched on a hilltop off another winding country road outside Manheim, PA, Waltz offers a very cozy and attractive tasting room inside next to the barrel room (where you can also sit for a tasting), and an expansive tree-shaded lawn outside where you can enjoy a picnic lunch accompanied by a glass or bottle of one of their wines.

Waltz features two types of wines - Estate bottled, meaning that the wine is produced solely from grapes grown on the property, and a Cellar brand, whose grapes are acquired from outside the estate (usually California, Washington or New York), but vinified by the Waltz winemakers.  A cursory glance at the wine list indicated that these wines were of a higher class and quality than the average PA wine.  How can you tell? There is the price factor, of course, although as I pointed at above, it's not necessarily proof of a finer wine.  Mostly, however, it's apparent in the description of the wine, the length and type of barrel aging.  In addition, the relatively small wine list focused almost exclusively on dry vitis vinifera varietals.

The sample wine tasting consisted of 5 selections of your choice for $12.  Although the price may appear a little steep, you may choose from wines that top out at $40-45 per bottle.  (More on those price points below.)  I selected a mix of Cellar and Estate wines, including the 2019 Cellar Sauvignon Blanc, the 2017 Estate Reserve Chardonnay, the 2019 Cellar 1599 Rosé, the 2018 Cellar 1599 Merlot and the Estate 2016 Crow Woods Cabernet Sauvignon.  The samples were served in a novel type of vessel for wine tasting: test tubes!  You then pour the test tube fluid into your wine glass. This saves table space and allows you to taste from your glass at your leisure. 

Following what I believe is a newly enacted PA regulation due to the pandemic, you are obliged to order a cheese or salami plate with the wine tasting, but this affords the opportunity to partake of more locally produced delights.  I chose the Special Reserve Cheddar, made from raw cow's milk, which was so flavorful and rich! (See https://farmfromage.com/ for more about Lancaster County gourmet cheeses.)

The Cellar wines were well produced and featured the typical, pleasing characteristics of these popular varietals: crisp, refreshing Sauvignon Blanc with notes of grapefruit and minerality;  plum scented Merlot, nicely balanced with sturdy tannic structure.  Nonetheless, I was especially interested in the Estate wines to see what the local terroir could produce.

The Chardonnay exhibited the typical characteristics of such a wine that has been aged 9 months in French oak, with extra aging on the lees: hints of pear, apple, with a slightly buttery texture.  While respectable, I would be hard pressed to lay out $38 for a bottle, especially since I'm very particular about Chardonnay.  Still, you could do worse for $12 a glass.

The 2016 Crow Woods Cabernet tops out the Estate wines at $45 a bottle so you would expect this to be the "pièce de résistance" of the winery's production, however, I was somewhat disappointed.  Aged 24 months in French oak barrels, this Cab exhibits some of the usual notes found in well made versions of  the varietal - dark fruit, strong tannic backbone, green pepper.  Overall, though, I found the tannins and oak to be a bit overwhelming.  Perhaps less aging in oak or simply more bottle aging would soften and mellow these notes to a more velvety palate.

On the other hand, the 2016 Cherry Tree Merlot

hit all the right notes for me - nicely balanced red fruit and spice, fine tannic structure, and a pleasing, plush mouthfeel. It was certainly one of the best PA merlots I've sampled, along with Karamoor's.  At $40 a bottle, it's still not too easy on the wallet, but for a well-made local product, it's worth an occasional splurge.  The personal touch to the wine-tasting experience and hospitality certainly added to the enjoyment.

There are many other interesting attractions and activities in the Lancaster-Lebanon-Harrisburg area, such as biking, hiking, boating, craft breweries, markets, etc., so do yourself a favor and take a day or two to enjoy the local colors.

P.S. I will be holding wine tasting classes November 10 and 17 for the Mt Airy Learning Tree. They will be small classes (8 maximum) with strict safety protocols. See the link for more info: https://aceweb.mtairylearningtree.org/CourseStatus.awp?&course=20FCK04A

What IS a Super Tuscan? (Hint: it's NOT an Italian Superhero)

In these times of pandemics and lockdowns, I hope you and yours are staying safe and able to enjoy nonetheless some of the pleasures of life, including a glass or two of fine wine.  And speaking of fine wine, may I introduce you to a class of wines (if you're not already familiar with them) that have fascinated and tantalized wine professionals and the discriminating wine consumer for a number of years now: Super Tuscans.  (It's not clear who first coined the term (one source points to wine writer Burt Anderson), but basically they are wines grown in Tuscany that do not conform to the traditional DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) regulations that dictate what types of grapes may be used in DOC wines in particular areas.  Instead, these wine producers typically vinify Bordeaux style blends using varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc,and also throwing in some Italian varietals, Sangiovese, for example, which have become some of the world's most prized (and expensive) wines.  (A few years ago, a Sassicaia earned Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year.  It retails for several hundred dollars.)

Originally classified at the lowest level, Vino da Tavola, Super Tuscans were granted IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) status in 1992.  (The IGT designation is the equivalent of the Vin de Pays label in French wines.)  The Maremma region of southwest Tuscany is the primary source of Super Tuscans, and the village of Bolgheri is regarded as perhaps the mother lode of these wines. (Tenuta San Guido, which produces Sassicaia, is located there.)

Some weeks ago, my brother "Lorenzo", a longtime Italophile and connoisseur, discovered a good deal on line for the entry level Ornellaia, a top Super Tuscan producer. (For a detailed history of Ornellaia, please check out this link - https://vinepair.com/articles/ornellaia-tuscany-guide/  .)  I pitched in for a few bottles, and recently partook of this very fine wine.  I share with you now my impressions.

Le Volte dell'Ornellaia 2017

Plush, rich, ripe dark fruit bouquet followed by dense, luscious, dark fruit flavors; round, soft tannins; almost chewy mouthfeel; nicely balanced; medium to full bodied.  Characteristics on a scale of 5:

Body: 4

Acidity: 2

Fruit: 5

Sweetness (from fruit): 3

Tannins: 3

Overall rating: a solid 91 out of 100.

Varietals: 67% Merlot; 20% Cabernet Sauvignon; 13% Sangiovese

Production Notes: Separate vinification of each varietal; malolactic fermentation, following alcoholic fermentation, in stainless steel tanks; aged for 10 months in partly in barrique and in cement tanks

Alcohol: 13.5%

Retail price: $26 to $34

For more information on the estate, the vineyard and the vintage, click on this link: https://www.vintus.com/wines/le-volte-dellornellaia/ornellaia-le-volte-dellornellaia-2017/

No Rain in Spain, but the Quality Wine Flows Cheap and Freely! (pre-Coronavirus lockdown!)

Back from a recent business trip to Spain (fortunately, my colleagues and I returned before the country went into lock-down, and health check lines were implemented at ports of entry causing extremely long waits), I am eager to report on the wines and food I sampled there.  Indeed, I feel lucky that I was able to enjoy the food and wine culture there for a brief period since none of us knows when travel bans may be lifted.  And so, onto more pleasant things -

Sagrada Familia, Facade

Roof top of Casa Mila by Gaudi

First of all, as those of you who've had the pleasure of touring Spain well know, the price of wine there is eminently affordable, even in restaurants (as opposed to most places in the US, especially Pennsylvania, where the mark-up is often as high as 3 times the retail price).  Consequently, it's a great joy to peruse the wine list to see that a large portion of the wines come in under 20 Euros a bottle, and a glass of wine - which, I might add, is poured directly from a freshly opened bottle - averages about 4 Euros.  

And so, upon arrival, for my first full course evening meal at La Bodegueta, 233, Carrer Provenca, http://provenca.labodegueta.cat/ , I was all set to order some great wines without worrying about my budget.  I started off with a lovely and lively Verdejo, with bright citrus and fruit flavors, crisp acidity that whets the appetite for some delicious tapas such patates Bodegueta, Pop Provenca (octupus) and pickled anchovies.

Finca Menade, Verdejo Ecologica 2019

Pickled anchovies

After a few glasses of the Verdejo, I washed down the rest of the tapas with a light bodied, but perky, fruity and tantalizing local Garnacha.  And to top off the tapas, so to speak, I opted for the house-made dark chocolate helado (gelato) which dazzled my taste buds to no end. I was off to an auspicious start!

The next afternoon, after touring the Casa Mila, one of Gaudi's numerous architectural masterpieces that dot the city, I stopped for some lunch-time tapas at "Artespanol"  http://provenca.labodegueta.cat/   right down the street.  The mini Manchego slider and Champinones al Ajillo (sauteed mushrooms with garlic) hit the spot.  And it's never too early for a glass of Tempranillo to pair with the tapas, especially at 4 Euros a glass!

That evening I met my new colleague and amigo, Karol, at a local hangout (Els Sortidors del Parlament   https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187497-d4987810-Reviews-Bodega_Els_Sortidors_del_Parlament-Barcelona_Catalonia.html) near the University - nothing fancy, and although it was more of brew-focused pub, it still had an ample wine list, this being Spain where the wine flows.... well, you get the idea.  I selected, and introduced to Karol, a Mencia from the Bierzo region in northwest Spain, one of my go-to reds from this D.O.

Once regarded as a simple, regional grape vinified for local table wine, the quality of Mencia has improved markedly in recent years attracting the attention of the worldly consumer.  Even in the US, it is a good value wine, typically exhibiting earthy, vegetal characteristics with notes of berry and a stony minerality.  It is genetically related to Jaen from Portugal and may have originated from this lusophonic neighbor.

By the way, the hotel where my colleagues and I resided that week was the Hotel Ayre Rousillon https://www.ayrehoteles.com/hoteles/ayre-hotel-rosellon/    located a block from Gaudi's renowned Sagrada Familia in the city's Eixample barri.  Conveniently located, it offers a fabulous breakfast buffet for a modest price (15 Euros), and a small bar serving a basic tapas menu.  Single rooms average around 100 Euros per night.  Check-in, concierge and daily room cleaning were all up to par.  My room even had a view of the Sagrada Familia.

                   

    

Tuesday evening, our work team celebrated at a neighborhood restaurant Los Bellota http://www.losbellota.com/  just down the street from the hotel with a full array of hors d'oeuvres, tapas and paella washed down with an excellent Reserva Rioja and topped off with Cava in frosted flutes.

The Ramon Bilbao Reserva 2015 is a Tempranillo blend (with Mazuelo 5% and Graciano 5%) from the Rioja region (DOCa.), and aged 20 months in American oak and another 20 months in the bottle before release.  https://www.bodegasramonbilbao.es/en/

Tasting notes: Intense nose with notes of black fruit, fresh red berries;sweet, spicy aromas of vanilla, cumin, and nuances of wild herbs tinged with menthol; fresh, intense mouthfeel with good acidity, and well balanced alcohol; lasting, bold finish with reappearance of red fruit and sweet spice; ready to drink now but with great cellaring potential.

And here's the Cava that topped off the regalia, courtesy of the restaurant owner:

It's a typical blend for Cava, including Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada with a touch of Chardonnay.  Aged 2 1/2 years on the lees, it is produced in the méthode champenoise.

Tasting notes: fresh, dry, clean with a nose of citrus, white flower, mineral, anise, and croissant; pairs well with sauteed shrimp, fried calamari, cold asparagus salad, Manchego cheese, Serano ham, cold. (Indeed, we actually should have started off with this sparkler to accompany our tapas!)

The following evening, after an especially long and intense work day, my colleague Pedro and I took the metro down to the Barri Gotic to check out the Cuisines Santa Caterina next to the newly renovated Santa Caterina market. 

              

 In this sprawling space under the undulating wooden superstructure of the market, the restaurant and tapas bar is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and features an eclectic array of fusion cuisine, including Mediterranean, Asian and vegetarian dishes served on sleek counters and long wooden tables.  After superabundance of meats and cheeses at repasts in the previous few days, veggies, greens, salads and fresh grilled fish were a welcome alternative.  We opted for a zucchini salad, sauteed vegetables and grilled calamari with asparagus. 

               

 The rustic, whole grain and sour dough breads were also absolutely scrumptious. A bright, fresh and crisp couple of glasses of  house Verdejo also did the trick. (The restaurant website link appears to be broken, but you can direct your browser to this Barcelona website for more info.  https://www.barcelona.com/barcelona_directory/restaurants/catalan/cuines_santa_caterina )


For my final night in Barcelona, Karol joined me for a delicious and abundant repast at another neighborhood restaurant that caters mostly to locals (I spied only a few other turistas in the dining space).  Meson A Veiga,  just up the street from the Hotel Ayre Roussillon on Carrer de Sardenya, features Galician style cuisine in a relaxed, convival setting with friendly, welcoming service.  https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187497-d5768278-Reviews-A_Veiga-Barcelona_Catalonia.html

                   

It was obviously a very popular neighborhood spot as it quickly filled up (it was a Friday night) so we were fortunate to get there early and grab an open table for two.  We started off with a large goat cheese salad and fried calamari which I attacked with gusto as I had skipped lunch that day to build up an appetite after the breakfast buffet.

For the wine, I selected a Godello from the Monterrei D.O. (Denominacion de Origen) in Galicia.  (Godello is the star white wine in the neighboring Valdeorras D.O. and its top producer is Godeval.  Please see my previous blog post touting this wine which is one of my all time favorites and a Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2016  https://phillywineguy.blogspot.com/2017/06/   )

                 

This 2018 Galvan, a 60/40 blend of Godello and Treixadura, originates from the Adegas Daniel Fernandez, "adega" being the local term for winery or estate, as in neighboring Portugal.  http://bodegasdanielfernandez.com/

At 13% alcohol, the Galvan is delightfully crisp and expressive, exuding an intense fruity bouquet with notes of citrus, white flowers and fragrant green herbs.  It paired most excellently with the whole grilled sea bass I enjoyed as a main course and held forth with a persistent fruity finish.  (And not to belabor the point, but at just 14 euros, you would be hard pressed to find anything remotely close in value in a Stateside restaurant.)

               

So there you have it, folks - what may be my last trip to Europe for the foreseeable future.  I hope you are all well-stocked with fruit of the vine to see us through these trying times.  (As far as I know, you can still order wine online while the brick-and-mortar wine and spirit shops are shuttered.)

Take care, stay safe and enjoy a glass of vino to take the edge off. Salud!