Friday, July 3, 2020

What IS a Super Tuscan? (Hint: it's NOT an Italian Superhero)

In these times of pandemics and lockdowns, I hope you and yours are staying safe and able to enjoy nonetheless some of the pleasures of life, including a glass or two of fine wine.  And speaking of fine wine, may I introduce you to a class of wines (if you're not already familiar with them) that have fascinated and tantalized wine professionals and the discriminating wine consumer for a number of years now: Super Tuscans.  (It's not clear who first coined the term (one source points to wine writer Burt Anderson), but basically they are wines grown in Tuscany that do not conform to the traditional DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) regulations that dictate what types of grapes may be used in DOC wines in particular areas.  Instead, these wine producers typically vinify Bordeaux style blends using varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc,and also throwing in some Italian varietals, Sangiovese, for example, which have become some of the world's most prized (and expensive) wines.  (A few years ago, a Sassicaia earned Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year.  It retails for several hundred dollars.)

Originally classified at the lowest level, Vino da Tavola, Super Tuscans were granted IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) status in 1992.  (The IGT designation is the equivalent of the Vin de Pays label in French wines.)  The Maremma region of southwest Tuscany is the primary source of Super Tuscans, and the village of Bolgheri is regarded as perhaps the mother lode of these wines. (Tenuta San Guido, which produces Sassicaia, is located there.)

Some weeks ago, my brother "Lorenzo", a longtime Italophile and connoisseur, discovered a good deal on line for the entry level Ornellaia, a top Super Tuscan producer. (For a detailed history of Ornellaia, please check out this link - https://vinepair.com/articles/ornellaia-tuscany-guide/  .)  I pitched in for a few bottles, and recently partook of this very fine wine.  I share with you now my impressions.


Le Volte dell'Ornellaia 2017




Plush, rich, ripe dark fruit bouquet followed by dense, luscious, dark fruit flavors; round, soft tannins; almost chewy mouthfeel; nicely balanced; medium to full bodied.  Characteristics on a scale of 5:

Body: 4
Acidity: 2
Fruit: 5
Sweetness (from fruit): 3
Tannins: 3

Overall rating: a solid 91 out of 100.

Varietals: 67% Merlot; 20% Cabernet Sauvignon; 13% Sangiovese

Production Notes: Separate vinification of each varietal; malolactic fermentation, following alcoholic fermentation, in stainless steel tanks; aged for 10 months in partly in barrique and in cement tanks

Alcohol: 13.5%

Retail price: $26 to $34

For more information on the estate, the vineyard and the vintage, click on this link: https://www.vintus.com/wines/le-volte-dellornellaia/ornellaia-le-volte-dellornellaia-2017/




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