Long outshone by the Burgundy and Bordeaux regions, the Alsace has been enjoying a resurgence in popularity among consumers and critical acclaim by wine experts.
Last summer I hosted an Alsatian Wine Tasting and Dinner "down the shore" (New Jersey) and reported on that event in previous blog post (see http://phillywineguy.blogspot.com/2017/08/alsatian-wine-tasting-dinner.html )
Since it's often hard to tell from the label how sweet these wines may be, I have indicated in the tasting notes the level of sweetness. Late Harvest (Vendange Tardive) wines will be very sweet and are to be enjoyed with dessert.
Almost all the wines were rated as a favorite by at least a few participants, some of them quite being surprised by wines they knew little about previously. The main disappointment for me as well as the class was the Sylvaner, especially since it was the priciest of the lot. Although Albert Boxler, the producer, got a very favorable write-up by Kermit Lynch (see notes below), this particular wine left much to be desired. Typcially, Sylvaner is rather neutral wine with little in the way of aroma, or taste. Even so, this one had little to offer. The Sylvaner that I brought back from Alsace last year (Cuvee Z) and which I featured in the tasting referred to above, was very inexpensive and offered more distinctive characteristics and pleasant mouthfeel. It just shows that price does not always indicate how much you may like a wine.
For those of you who enjoy a dry crisp sparkling wine, the Cremant d'Alsace is an excellent choice. And the Wilm Pinot Gris is a good bargain at about $13 - almost everyone was a fan and estimated its price much higher. Lastly, the Zind Humbrecht Riesling is hard to beat for a classic dry Alsatian Riesling at a reasonable price.
Cheers!
The Furst ... Cremant d'Alsace Blanc de
Blanc (NV) ($22 PA)
Appellation: Appellation
Cremant d'Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100%
Pinot Blanc
Production/Tasting Notes: méthode traditionnelle, with
the second fermentation occurring in the bottle; gravel and alluvium soil; on
the nose subtle citrus notes and aromas of white flowers. This is a "Brut" which means it is very dry with very little residual sugar.
Food
Pairing: light seafood, dessert, or on its own as an aperitif
Alcohol: 12%
Wilm
Pinot Gris Reserve 2016 ($13 Wine Works, NJ)
Appellation:
Appellation Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100% Pinot Gris
Production/Tasting Notes: 100%
Hand harvesting ; extended and soft pressing ; 4-6 weeks controlled
fermentation in stainless steel ; maturing on the fine lees for another 2 to 3
months; nose of ripe fruit - peach, apricot quince; on the palate, it is both supple and full, with notes of honey
and spices. This wine is slightly sweet.(82 points, Wine Spectator)
Food pairing: fish
with cream sauce, smoked salmon, duck magret, pan-fried
foie gras, grilled or roasted white meats (pork, veal), rabbit, poultry in
cream sauce, smoked fish, mushroom dishes such as risotto.
Alcohol: 13%
Albert Boxler Sylvaner 2014 ($26 PA)
Appellation/Region: Appellation
Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100% Sylvaner
Production/Tasting Notes: Granite
soil; 50 year old vines; All grapes are
harvested by hand, no fining; after
pressing, cold settling before fermentation begins; all natural fermentation; vinified in foudre ;
practicing organic; full-bodied style with a
whiff of earth and smoke on the nose, highlighted at the expense of scant fruit flavors; typically neutral or
muted aromas. This is a very dry wine.
Food
Pairings : Alsatian onion tart; grilled asparagus with poached egg; seafood chowder
Alcohol: 13%
Rolly
Gassmann Pinot Blanc 2014 ($20 PA)
Appellation :
Appellation Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100%
Pinot Blanc
Production/Tasting Notes: Biodynamic; hand harvested; indigenous yeast;
soil types: limestone, marl, clay, muschelkalk,
conglomerate; no irrigation; fragrant aromas with elderflower and a hint of
honey; on the palate, luscious and opulent texture, fruity and fresh; apricot,
pear, orange, grapefruit and marzipan; lingering finish; aging - 8-10 years. This wine is as a tad sweet.
Food Pairings: lobster, game fish or with chicken with a rich creamy
sauce; will also pair well with quiche
Lorraine.
Alcohol: 13%
Marcel Deiss Alsace 2016 ($24 PA)
Appellation: Appellation
Alsace Contrôlée
Varietals: 13
Alsatian varietals, including Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir,
Muscat, Gewurztraminer and Sylvaner.
Production/Tasting Notes: Pale yellow color, intense
fruity nose show the blending notes of lemon, white flowers, pineapple and
yellow peach; palate is remarkably
fruity and distinctive ; saline notes;
complex bouquet, silky mouthfeel, intense finish;some residual sugar
Food Pairing:
soups, salads, white meats, fish
Alcohol: 13.5%
Trimbach Gewurztraminer 2014 ($18 Wine Works, NJ)
Appellation: Appellation
Alsace Contrôlée
Varietals: 100%
Gewurztraminer
Production/Tasting Notes: Hand
harvested; aromas of cinnamon, nutmeg, lychee and rose petal; rich, luscious,
intense; well-balanced with dry, spicy finish. (88 points -2015, Wine Spectator)
Food
Pairing: fish or seasoned meats, spicy and
exotic dishes, soft cheeses (such as the famous Munster), and a plethora of
desserts.
Alcohol: 13.5%
Schoffit
Gewurztraminer Lieu-Dit Harth Cuvee Caroline 2014 ($25 PA)
Appellation: Appellation
Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100% Gewurztraminer
Production/Tasting Notes: Biodynamic; gravelly
soil covered by loess; Average vine age 50 Years; hand harvested;
fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks; apricot, honey, floral and perfume aromas. This wine is somewhat sweet. (89 points - 2015, Wine Spectator)
Food Pairings: Pork, rich fish (salmon, tuna etc), spicy food, poultry, mild and soft cheese
Alcohol: 13%
Famille Hugel Classic Riesling 2014 ($18.39 PA)
Appellation: Appellation
Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100% Riesling
Production/Tasting Notes: Winemaker
notes: "Made exclusively from hand harvested grapes from predominantly clay and
limestone vineyards, in a dozen of the most favored localities in and around
Riquewihr. A cool and long growing season give this unique dry wine great
finesse and unequalled intensity."
Bouquet is fresh and lively, crisp and clean, pleasantly aromatic and
fruity, green apple, lemongrass, ginger, white peach, fresh moss and
blackcurrant, with a touch of muscatel; dry
and fresh on the palate, vivacious, nicely taut and elegantly structured,
giving depth and persistence;
aging potential - 3-5 years to develop full complexity and bouquet. This is a very dry Riesling. (89 points- 2015, Wine Spectator)
Food Pairing: turbot, sea perch, monkfish, lobster, crayfish,
seafood, pike-perch, pike, salmon, shellfish, scallops, and carpaccio of raw or
marinated fish
Alcohol: 12.5%
Domaine Zinck Pinot Blanc 2015 ($15 Wine Works, NJ)
Appellation: Appellation
Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100% Pinot Blanc
Production/Tasting Notes: silt,
clay-silt; harvest
by hand, pneumatic press, static must settling; fermentation in stainless steel
tanks with individual heating/refrigeration system, maturation on the lees
until the spring; "Notions of baked Mirabelle plums lend their
full-fruited aspect to nose and palate. Their softness is countered by fresh
lively crispness.... friendly, refreshing and fruit-driven. " Wine
Enthusiast, 88 points.
Food Pairing: Shellfish, fresh salads, white
meat; regional dishes: Baeckaoffa, tarte
flambée, quiches, fleischnaka; ressed cheeses like Cantal, Salers…
Alchol: 13.5%
Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling (Turckheim) 2015 ($22 Wine Works, NJ)
Appellation: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée
Varietal: 100% Riesling
Production/Tasting Notes: Biodymaic;
average vine age 31 years; gravel, silt soil; bright pale yellow/green color; expressive nose, showing
intense fruit quality and precise fresh fruit/floral aromatics; flavors of nectarine, guava, stone and spice; typical
palate for a Riesling: freshness, elegance, nice juicy ripe acidity, very dry
but not lean, no trace of over ripeness, medium light finish; 91 points, Wine
Spectator
Food Pairings:
Alcohol: 12%
AOC Alsace Explained (- Kermit Lynch
website)
AOC Alsace wines are generally varietal wines. The wines in which the grape variety appears on the label are 100% the stated variety.
The permitted grapes are the four noble grapes: Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Riesling, and Pinot Gris, completed with Auxerrois (also known as Klevner), Chasselas, Pinot Blanc, Savagnin rosé, Sylvaner, and Pinot Noir.When no grape variety indicated on the label, the wine is typically a blend.
Depending on which varieties are used in the blend, the producer can label the wine as AOC Alsace, AOC Alsace “Edelzwicker,” or AOC Alsace “Gentil d’Alsace.”AOC Alsace blends and “Edelzwicker” can be a blend of any grapes allowed within the AOC. There is no grape minimum; the different varieties may be vinified together or separately. The mention of vintage is optional. There is no technical difference between the composition of AOC Alsace blends and “Edelzwicker”—it is at the producer’s discretion as to how they would like to label their wine.
The denomination “Gentil d’Alsace” is reserved for AOC Alsace wines that fit within the standards of a superior quality blend. This blend must consist of a minimum of 50% of noble grapes: Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and/or Gewurztraminer, the rest made up of Sylvaner, Chasselas, Pinot Blanc, and/or Auxerrois. Before blending, each grape variety must be vinified separately and must officially qualify as an AOC Alsace wine.
Notes on Wine Producers
Pierre Gassmann, champion of biodynamic cultivation in
Alsace, insists on late harvesting and lengthy cellaring after bottling,
creating amply sweet yet balanced styles. In-depth knowledge of the family
estate (a complex mosaic of limestone and marls) and pursuit of low yields
promote precise expression of different terroirs.
The Rolly Gassman Pinot Blanc comes from a selection of vineyards located within the village of Rorschwhir, it was harvested at optimum ripeness. Pierre Gassmann considers that the grapes are ripe when the pip has turned orange brown inside the grape.
Harvest is done by hand, as most things at the estate. The philosophy that guides the Rolly Gassmann family centers on as little interference with the vines as possible, rigorous selection of grapes, and the most careful handling of both harvest and vinification to produce wines of the highest quality and specificity.
The grapes are taken to the cellar, gently pressed and taken into individual fermentation tanks where no yeast is added, fermentation is done using indigenous yeast. Each vineyard has its own fermentation tank and is vinified separately. Once fermentation is completed and the wine is left to rest and it is bottled within 11 months from harvest. Fermentation can take a few months to complete depending on the circumstances, bottling normally happens just before the next harvest. The bottles are then laid to rest for a couple of years at least for the less complex wines, more elaborate cuvees will be kept aside for many years before being released, as much as 20 years and more.
Surface under vine: 40 hectares
Organic and biodynamic viticulture: since 1997, Organic certification 1998 by Ecocert, biodynamic certification by Biodyvin / Ecocert in 2002.
Harvest is done by hand, as most things at the estate. The philosophy that guides the Rolly Gassmann family centers on as little interference with the vines as possible, rigorous selection of grapes, and the most careful handling of both harvest and vinification to produce wines of the highest quality and specificity.
The grapes are taken to the cellar, gently pressed and taken into individual fermentation tanks where no yeast is added, fermentation is done using indigenous yeast. Each vineyard has its own fermentation tank and is vinified separately. Once fermentation is completed and the wine is left to rest and it is bottled within 11 months from harvest. Fermentation can take a few months to complete depending on the circumstances, bottling normally happens just before the next harvest. The bottles are then laid to rest for a couple of years at least for the less complex wines, more elaborate cuvees will be kept aside for many years before being released, as much as 20 years and more.
Surface under vine: 40 hectares
Organic and biodynamic viticulture: since 1997, Organic certification 1998 by Ecocert, biodynamic certification by Biodyvin / Ecocert in 2002.
- 6.0ha Hunawihr
- 2.2ha Gueberschwihr
- 7.3ha Wintzenheim
- 19.8ha Turckheim
- 0.3ha Niedermorschwihr
Marcel Deiss
The
complantation (art of blending grape varietals in one Terroir) is the most
original practice of viticulture in Europe. Long before the winemakers knew
about the varieties and become scholar ampelographers, the complantation
assumes a regular harvest as noted by Olivier de Serres in his book "The
Theatre of agriculture and husbandry fields" (1600 ). Closer to our ear
(1852), Jean-Louis Stolz characterized more than 100 grape varieties that
cultivars planted in the vineyard in Alsace and described specific
complantations in the greatest terroirs of Alsace (Sporen, Schoenenbourg
Sonnenglanz, Zotzenberg, Kastelberg, Kaefferkopf). At that time, there were
very few pure vineyard, the wine makers gradually realized a real adaptation of
a complex vines in the terroir by layering technique (replace artistically a
dead vine by its resistant neighbor better adapted) .
While the grape variety has
always been optional for AOC Alsace (Order 1945) and many plots on hillsides
were still co-planted in the 60s, the introduction of the legislation which
requires the mention of grape variety for Grand Cru (1975 ) can be considered
as a historical mistake because it has resulted in a dramatic loss of
biodiversity of vineyards, establishment of productive clones and a shift in
all varieties. Fortunately, some winemakers have the perseverance and
obstinacy, and in 2005, to reform this unjust law (the grape variety is now
entirely optional for AOC Alsace and the Grand Cru).
Bernard Schoffit is a brilliant pioneer
in Alsace’s greatest Grand Cru, Rangen de Thann. The domaine started by
Bernard’s father, Robert at 10 hectares, is situated near Colmar. 25
years ago, Bernard, then still very young, embarked on an ambitious program of
buying land in Rangen, around the Clos St. Theobold. Totaling nearly 6.5
hectares, a good part of it had been abandoned because it was too steep to
work. Through sheer determination and ambition, he has now reclaimed all 6.5
hectares. From these incredibly steep slopes, with extremely low yields,
he is making simply extraordinary wine from each cépage he grows.
Bernard’s gift for wine-making is not reserved only for his Rangen wines.
In his vineyards near Colmar he practices the same rigorous approach to
yields, and from a less than one hectare parcel of Riesling on Sommerberg
(granite), makes one of the most brilliant wines of that varietal in all of
Alsace. These yields, some very old vines and Bernard’s guiding hand
produce wines that are all marked by the following characteristics: intensity,
very pure varietal character, great concentration of fruit on the palate and
perfect acidity to balance and carry this weight into a long and brilliant
finish.
Domaine Zinck
From a family that has worked the earth and
the vines at Eguisheim for several generations, Paul Zinck created the Zinck
Winery in 1964. He started with 2.5 hectares of vines.
From his earliest days, Paul watched his parents, Henri and Anna,
produce wine along with their mixed farming. With time, they started a
winemaking business entirely separate from the rest; 1955 saw the first
bottling. Paul continued to develop the winery, improving the equipment and
quality of the production.
In the mid-70s, the winery covered 6 hectares. With the help of his
wife, Christiane, Paul set up and launched a serious marketing strategy,
creating a sales outlet at the winery and offering wine-tastings of his production.
His first attempt at exporting
was with activities and wine-tastings in Belgium.
Driven by the same passion as his father, Philippe jointed the
winery in 1997 and took over the working of 8 hectares. While respectful of the
values of a family-owned business, he managed to create a subtle balance
between traditional small-scale methods and new wine-growing and winemaking
techniques. His passion for the vines and the earth, combined with his
entrepreneurial skills, have brought the winery recognition and, even more,
have produced wines with a style unique to the Alsatian countryside.
Today, the winery, headed by Philippe and his wife Pascale, who
joined him in 2007, covers 20 hectares and produces three complete ranges of
wine, all regularly awarded by the professionals: the Portrait, Terroir and
Grands Crus, topped off by the Crémant and Crémant rosé. He exports to around
twenty countries.
Trimbach
The
wine-growing history of Maison Trimbach dates back to 1626.
Since then, twelve
generations of winemakers have tirelessly drawn on their passion for Alsace
wines, ensuring the wines they produce stand out for their quality and
authenticity, patiently establishing, from father to son, a solid reputation
for excellence.
Trimbach wine
acquired true international acclaim in 1898 when Frédéric Emile Trimbach
received the highest distinction at the International Wine Fair in Brussels.
This success is
due in no small part to the jewel in the estate’s crown, the «Clos Sainte Hune»
vineyard.
Today, the family vineyard
is run by Hubert Trimbach, his nephews Jean and Pierre, and Pierre’s
daughter Anne, the oldest member of the 13thgeneration. Their
enthusiasm and ambition keep the family’s tradition, rigor and know-how alive,
bringing their wines to the very peak of perfection.
Pierre has been in
charge of the « technical side » and vinifications when Jean and Anne are
traveling all around the world. Julien, Jean’s son, just joined the Family to
work closely with Pierre in the cellar.
Two turrets
overlooked by the surrounding vines, a few meters from the heart of
Ribeauvillé, pinpoint the F.E. Trimbach estate.
Situated on the
Wine Route, between the vineyards and the mountains, this pretty village,
boasting a rich historical heritage, asserts itself as the center of Alsace
winegrowing and cuisine.
Sheltered by the
Vosges Mountains and exposed to maximum sunshine, the Ribeauvillé fault line
offers a rich mosaic of soils (limestone, sandstone, marl, clay, etc.).
These natural
assets provide the perfect conditions for an array of aromatic grape varieties.
The 40
hectares that make up the Trimbach estate stretch over more than 50 parcels and
6 villages, including Bergheim, Ribeauvillé and Hunawihr.
The Trimbach
estate strives to produce high quality wines by using integrated, sustainable
winegrowing practices. This is demonstrated with the winery’s focus on
preserving nature; close pruning, innovative techniques for maintaining healthy
vines, tilling the soils, producing moderate yields, and meticulous selection
of the grapes used in each wine.
This rigor, applied
to the property’s own vines, is also applied when the Trimbachs purchase grapes
from growers loyal to the estate. This is one of the many tasks carefully
overseen by Pierre.
Domaine Zind Humbrecht
Represented
by: Olivier
Humbrecht
Winegrowers father to son since
1620, the Humbrecht family has cultivated their vines in the great terroirs of
Alsace.
Domaine Zind Humbrecht was created in 1959 through the
amalgamation of the Humbrecht family vineyards in Gueberschwihr and the Zind
family vineyards in Wintzenheim. Prior to 1959, both families produced
and sold their wines under their respective names.
After
taking over the reins from Léonard and Geneviève Humbrecht in 1989, the Domaine
is today run by Olivier and Margaret Humbrecht.
Winegrowing
is a tradition in the Humbrecht family that has been passed down from father to
son since the 30 Year War in 1620. Canon Barth, an historian of Alsatian wine,
recounts that the Humbrecht family was a tenant of the Marbach Abbey vineyards
near Gueberschwihr in the 18th century. However, it was
only in 1947 that the Humbrecht family began producing, vinifying and selling
their wines under the Humbrecht name.
Domaine
Zind Humbrecht today comprises of 41.1 hectares of vines, spread out over the
following 6 communes:
The yield is greatly vintage
dependent, and averages around 35hl/ha with an annual production of between 12
000 and 16 000 cases.
Since 1992, the Domaine Zind
Humbrecht is located at Route de Colmar, Turckheim, in the heart of the
Herrenweg vineyard.
Famille Hugel
The first traces of the Hugel family in Alsace can be traced back to the XVth century. Some two centuries later, Hans Ulrich Hugel settled in Riquewihr, which had been devastated by the terrible Thirty Years War. In 1639 he was made a freeman of the city and soon took charge of the very powerful Corporation of Winegrowers. In 1672 his son built a fine house in the Rue des Cordiers, and over the doorway was carved the family crest which was the origin of the company’s logo still used today. During the XVIIIth and XIXth centuries, the Hugel family gained an enviable reputation for their winegrowing skills and for the meticulous way in which they cultivated their vineyards.
In 1902, Frédéric Emile Hugel left the old family property and established himself in premises in the centre of Riquewihr which still form the heart of the family business
World War II brought Jean’s grandfather Albert back to Niedermorschwihr from Montana, where he was busy enjoying the natural gifts of big sky country. After the war Albert returned to the family domaine in time to harvest the 1946 crop. He became the first generation to bottle the family’s production himself and commercialize it under a family label. The wine still wears a label drawn by his cousin in 1946. Albert’s son Jean-Marc continued the tradition for several decades until passing the baton to his son Jean in 1996.
The family’s holdings are centered around the ancient village of Niedermorschwihr in the Haut-Rhin, dominated by the imposing granite hillside grand cru, Sommerberg. Jean vinifies micro-parcels within this cruseparately, de-classifying some into his Réserve wines and producing multiple bottlings of Sommerberg from the different lieux-dits depending on the vintage. Sommerberg gives racy, intensely structured, very long-lived wines. Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Blanc are the specialties of the domaine, Jean also produces one of Alsace’s best Crémants (and Edelzwickers), an incredible Gewurztraminer grown in limestone, and some of the most hauntingly pure Vendanges Tardives and SGNs in all of Alsace. If that weren’t enough, the Boxlers also own land in the powerful grand cru Brand, the ultimate counterpart to their holdings in Sommerberg.
The Sommerberg hillside terminates in Jean’s driveway, making it easy to basically live in the vineyards, ensuring exceptionally healthy fruit year after year. After harvest, the wines are vinified and aged in old foudresin a small cellar underneath the family home until bottling. Not much has changed over the centuries; not much has needed to. Tasting through the entire range of Boxler’s wines is ample proof of the fact that Alsace, along with Burgundy, is the source of the world’s most complex, exciting white wines, and will probably always be.
