A Wine Tasting - Germany & Austria

 When one thinks of wines from Germany and Austria, what comes to mind is typically Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, respectively. And indeed, they are some of the best examples of these particular varietals. However, there are many other types of wine - red, white and sparkling - that also deserve recognition and serious tasting, including Spätburgunder (Merlot), Gewürztraminer, Blaufränkisch (Lemberger), Zweigelt and St. Laurent. 

In my most recent classes, I featured dry and dry-ish Rieslings as well as Gewurztraminer, Gruner Veltliner, Zweigelt and Spatburgunder.  (Currently, all the wine shops seemed to be out of Lemberger and St. Laurent, but you can get the former at many Finger Lakes wineries if you happen to be visiting that area.)  Contrary to popular belief, most German Riesling are actually dry, it's just that most of the sweet version are exported to the US.  I give some hints below on how to determine if a Riesling is likely to be sweet or dry.

In any case, these are some of selections available in local wine shops which were all enjoyed by those attending my classes.

Prost!

P.S. I include my own personal ratings (PWG)  for the first time on this blog!

Hirsch Kamptal Gruner Veltliner 2022 ($22, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin/Classification: Kamptal DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus -  Austrian Qualitatswein), Austria

Varietal: 100% Gruner Veltliner

Production/Tasting Notes: Loess soil; stainless steel maturation; biodynamic; organic; expressive fresh citrus aromas with wild herb and chamomile notes; delicate fruity character on the palate; crisp, yellow apple taste; touch of white pepper spice. (PWG: 90 points)

Food Pairings: Wienerschnitzel; tuna salad; zucchini quiche

Alcohol: 11.5%

 

Hiedler Loss Gruner Veltliner 2023  ($17, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin: Niederosterreich, Austria

Varietal: 100% Gruner Veltliner

Production/Tasting Notes: Loess soils – lime, dolomite, quartz, mica, clay; hand-harvested; maceration for several hours; fermented in stainless steel; matured on the lees for 4 months; floral scent; white flowers; Mirabelle; lemon zest; minerally palate; bright fruit character; fresh apple; juicy; crisp acidity. (PWG: 93 points)

Food Pairings: Kartoffelsalat (potato salad); salad Nicoise

Alcohol: 12%

 

 

 

Donnhoff Riesling Dry 2023 ($19-22, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin: Nahe, Germany

Varietal: 100% Riesling

Production/Tasting Notes: Stony (slate, quartzite; porphyry, melaphyre) volcanic weathered soils; 15–30-year-old vines; fermentation and maturation in stainless steel and oak barrels; delicate stone fruit, floral and citrus aromas; light to medium body; bracing minerality; fine acidity. (93 points, James Suckling; PWG: 92 points)

Food Pairings: Softshell crab; lobster with rich sauce; scallops

Alcohol: 12%

 

Villa Wolf Gewurztraminer 2023 ($12, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin: Pfalz, Germany

Varietal: 100% Gewurztraminer

Production/Tasting Notes: Delicate aromas of spice, exotic fruits, fresh roses;  juicy texture; touch of sweetness; ight bodied. (PWG: 88 points)

Food Pairings: Spicy Asian cuisine   

Alcohol:   11.5%

Borell Diehl Gewurztraminer Kabinett 2023

Origin/Classification: QmP, Pfalz, Germany

Varietal: 100% Gewurztraminer

Production/Tasting Notes: Very aromatic; fragrances of rose, lychee; orange spice; slightly sweet; light-bodied. (PWG: 89 points)

 

Dr. Loosen “Red Slate” Riesling Dry 2022 ($18, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin: VDP Gutswein (Estate Wine) Mosel, Germany

Varietal: 100% Riesling

Production/Tasting Notes: Fermented in 3,00 liter neutral oak casks; aged on full lees for 12 months; soft, round structure; floral, spicy, citrus blossom aromas; hints of grapefruit, tangerine, apricot, geranium, anise, herbs; lively acidity; intense minerality; flavors of wet stone, citrus, stone fruit; harmonious; expressive texture. (PWG: 90 points)

Food Pairings: Teriyaki

Alcohol: 11.5%

 

St Urbans Single Post Mosel Riesling Kabinett 2020 ($16, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin/Classification: Pradikatswine; Mosel, Germany

Varietal: 100% Riesling

Production/Tasting Notes: Tangerine, lemon flavors; hints of caramel and saffron; delicately sweet; light bodied, lean; juicy; fresh-fruited. (PWG: 89 points)

Food Pairings: Soft cheeses; white meat

Alcohol: 7.5%

 

Villa Wolf Pinot Noir 2022 ($15, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin: Pfalz, Germany

Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir

Production/Tasting Notes: 12 months in French oak barriques; medium-bodied; firm acidity; black cherry fruit; juicy, ripe, and forward with spicy mid-palate; smoky depth; touch of earthy tannins. (PWG: 88 points)      

Food Pairings: Smoked Salmon; lamb; antipasti; salami; risotto; burgers; pork

Alcohol: 13%

 

Pfaffl Vom Haus Zweigelt 2023 ($16, Narberth, PA)

Origin: Niederosterreich, Austria

Varietal: 100% Zweigelt

Production/Tasting Notes: Loess soils; fermentation in stainless steel tanks; 30% maturation in used oak barrels, 70% in stainless steel tanks; cherry and sour cherry aromas; juicy, full, round and spice on the palate; gentle, soft tannins;  round body. (PWG: 89 points)

Food Pairings: burger; pizza; pasta

Alcohol: 13.5%

 

Familie Allendorf Assmnanshauser Spatburgunder Trocken 2019 ($25, Narberth, PA)

Origin/Classification: Assmanshauser VDP Ortswein, Rheingau, Germany

Varietal: 100% Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir)

Production/Tasting Notes: Slate soil; richly concentrated yet racy; ripe, luscious black cherry and plum flavors; supple texture; high-toned acidity; bracing structured feel; finish marked by notes of crushed black pepper, tar, ash with rim of smooth, silken tannins. (88 points, Wine Enthusiast; PWG: 89 points)

Food Pairings: roast lamb; 

Alcohol: 12.5%

 

VDP (Verband Deutscher Pradikatsweinguter) Classifications

Grosses Gewachs (Grosse Lage) (Great Growths) – Made in a dry style with a minimum spätlese ripeness.

Erste Gewachs (Erste Lage) (First Growth) – Same as GG, but pertains only to Rheingau region.

Lagenwein  (Ortswein) (Terroir Wines) – Wine from a top estate bearing the name of the vineyard where the grapes were grown with  strict harvest laws.

Gutswein (House Wines) – Labeled with a proprietary name of a village or region with high quality reflecting regional character.

 

German Wine Labels

QbA (Qualitats bestimmter Anbaugebiete: Everyday table wines from any of the 13 growing regions; vary from sweet to dry.

QmP (Qualitatswein mit Pradikat): indicates standard of production for top level of German wines with the following levels of ripeness:

·        Kabinett: first level of ripeness, generally the lightest of QMP wines; usually driest.

·        Spatlese: harvested later than Kabinett with greater level of ripeness; medium-weight wine; dry or sweet.

·        Auslese: later harvest than Spatlese; medium to heavyweight wines; drier versions pair with richer game meats, cheeses, spicy food.

·        Beerenauslese: individually hand harvested late to create special dessert wines; made from botrytized grapes.

·        Trockenbeerenauslese: shriveled, botrytized grapes are individually hand harvested to produce even more intense dessert wines;

·        Eiswein: grapes harvested while frozen resulting in the extraction of pure intense juice.

 

Tips to Determine if a Riesling Is Likely to be Sweet or Dry

·        Alcohol Percentage: 11.5% ABV and above tend to be dry; below 11% will be sweeter; late-harvest wines at 9% or below are all but certain to be very sweet.

·        Trocken: meaning “Dry” in German, this word is the best indicator of a dry Riesling with a maximum of 9 grams of residual sugar per liter

·        GG: the term ‘Grosses Gewachs” for members of the VDP is used to indicate dry wines made from grapes grown on a single vineyard, commonly recognized as the best dry wines in Germany.

·        Regions that begin with the letters A: these regions – Austria, Australia, Alsace – are best known for their dry Rieslings, particularly Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal in Austria

·        Cooler Climates: these tend toward dry Rieslings, such as the Finger Lakes.

·        Ask a knowledgeable sales person or merchant: Any responsible wine seller worth his/her salt, should be able to point you in the direction of a dry or sweet Riesling.

 

 

 

 

 

Rediscovering and Reassessing a Memorable Wine - Virginia Petit Verdot

 One of the pleasures of sampling wines on a road trip is revisiting, or more precisely, re-tasting wines that you purchased at the winery much later to be reminded why you bought it in the first place.  I have  experienced such rediscoveries multiple times in recent weeks, the latest being a Petit Verdot that I brought back from a trip to Williamsburg in August 2022.  (Please see my previous post from that time in which I briefly mentioned this particular wine https://phillywineguy.blogspot.com/2022/08/virginia-in-vino-veritas.html .)

As I stated in my previous post, Petit Verdot is quickly becoming a signature varietal of Virginia wineries, and Upper Shirley's cuvee is a prime example of the quality, depth and richness of this grape which, though usually a minor player in Bordeaux blends and the like, takes on special dimensions as a single varietal.

First settled and farmed in 1613, Upper Shirley was built in 1867 along the banks of the James River just 20 miles southeast of Richmond.  One of just a handful of  artisan winemakers in Eastern Virginia, Upper Shirley Vineyards is a lovely, inviting and hospitable estate with a large, comfortable tasting room and restaurant with both inside and outside seating.  (Again, see my previous post for more details.)   My sampling had featured a number of red, white and rose wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Tannat and Mourvedre.  The Petit Verdot was one of the standout reds, which I was pleased to confirm on my recent tasting.

Upper Shirley Petit Verdot 2016

Origin: Eastern Virginia

Varietal: 100% Petit Verdot

Production/Tasting Notes: Long maceration on skins; 19 months  aging in French and American oak barrels; dense black cherry; brambly jam; smoky, dark chocolate; briar; dried herbs; lingering finish.   This is a luscious, powerful, full-bodied wine that even over a few days continues to develop and mellow further into layered, expanding expressions of red fruit and herbs, sustained by firm tannins. (PWG* Rating: 93-4 points)

Alcohol: 14.1%

*PWG - Philly Wine Guy. I've decided to follow suit with several wine publications and critics and implement my own rating based on my personal experience and assessment of the wine over several tastings.  As such, I will use the 100 point scale and will elaborate on it in a follow-up post. For this debut rating, I assign 93-4 points which indicates a high quality wine with certain exceptional distinctions.  Since no rating can be static, in my opinion, because of how situations can influence one's impressions and assessments, I will allow myself a bit "fudging" between points. 

I realize that the wines of Upper Shirley, including this one that I am featuring here, are not readily available outside of Virginia.  However, the point of this post is to encourage you to explore local and regional wineries when you're on the road, take time to taste the wines, and bring home a few bottles to experience them in a different time and place and see how your perception of the wine may have changed.  No less important is supporting local and regional wineries that do not get the attention of the big players, for the greater the diversity of the world's terroirs, the more robust the cultivation, production and variety of wines we will enjoy.  Salud!

Wine Dinner Featuring (PA) Chairman's Selections

 The Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board, notoriously abbreviated PLCB, has long been the butt of many jokes, endlessly moaned and complained about, and derided by any number of wine connoisseurs, including myself.  However, over recent decades, they have loosened up a bit, if glacially, and many stores offer free wine tastings on Fridays and/or Saturdays.  In fact, I regularly attend those at the 11th and Chestnut Streets for (always) interesting and sometimes surprising selections, curated by Max and James, whom I trust as very knowledgeable and helpful wine geeks, if I may use that term  graciously.

For many years, the PLCB has offered specially discounted wines under the rubric of Chairman's Selections.  I have often availed myself of these (usually) exceptional deals, the only caveat being that they are for the most part "once and done", meaning once the supply is exhausted, you may not see it again.  Nevertheless, they are always worth seeking out.

Which leads me to the theme for a recent wine dinner among a small group of friends where I featured a tasting of five Chairman's Selections, two white and three red, all of which were enthusiastically imbibed by the dinner guests. (Once again I regret that I neglected to take pictures of the delicious food laid out by our gracious hosts, for which I will no doubt be reprimanded!)

In any event, I highly recommend seeking out any of these featured wines for a delightful accompaniment to your next meal. Salud! 

(P.S. I purchased all of them at the Ardmore location, but most should be available at specialty Wine and Spirits stores throughout Pennsylvania.)

Monte del Frà Cà del Magro Custoza Superiore 2021

Origin:  Cà del Magro Custoza Denominazione di Origine Controllata (Veneto, SE of Lake Garda, Italy)

Varietals: Garganega, Trebbiano Toscan, Cortese, Incrocio Manzoni

Production/Tasting Notes:  Unoaked; fresh and bright with notes of  peach, apricots, lemon, melon, honeysuckle, quince paste, beeswax, almonds; lively acidity;  extra virgin olive oil texture on the palate(?); medium to full-bodied with layers of mineral, pepper and smoke; long salt-tinged finish. (91 points Wine Spectator;  93 points, James Suckling)

Food Pairing: Aperitif; light appetizers; fresh water fish; vegetarian and Mediterranean fare

Alcohol:13%

 

Jean-Claude Mas Allnat Vermentino 2023

Origin: Pays d'Oc (France)

Varietals: 100% Vermentino

Production/Tasting Notes: Light, fresh and elegant nose with floral notes of hawthorn, lime blossom, fresh pear and touch of lemon; juicy, textured palate with integrated acidity;

Food  Pairings:  seafood salad; scallop carpaccio with citrus vinaigrette; langoustine flambéed with pastis; fillet of red mullet

Alcohol: 13%

 

 Bodegas Manzanos 111 Reserva  2018

Origin: Rioja DOCa (Spain)

Varietal: Tempranillo; Garnacha; Graciano

Production/Tasting Notes: Aromas of blackberry, red apple peel, vanilla; pleasant mouthfeel; abundant tannins; flavors of black cherry, black raspberry, cherry pipe tobacco, clove, mint; touch of salinity on extended finish. (93 points, Wine Enthusiast)

Food Pairing: tapas; olives; roasted pepper; smoked meat; Serrano ham

Alcohol:  13.5%

 

Casa Silva Dona Dominga Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

Origin: D.O. Valle de Cochagua, Chile

Varietal: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Production/Tasting Notes: Complex, elegant; up-front notes of calendula and dried currant; spiced currant and cranberry developing into chocolate-covered raspberry nuances; well-notable structure and depth on the mid-palate; lengthy finish. (92 points, Wine Spectator)

 Food Pairings: Grilled meat; roast beef; mushroom stroganoff; Havarti; Guyere 

Alcohol: 14.5%

 

Courtois La Grange Vinsobres 2020

Origin: Appellation Vinsobres Contrôlée (Côtes-du-Rhône)

Varietal: 55% Grenache; 45% Syrah

Production/Tasting Notes: Layered and complex; full-on flavors of boysenberry, plum, violet, cherry amply sprinkled piquant white pepper; smoked herbs; densely packed with streaks of salinity and iron fused with firm tannins; well-structured, powerful. (90 points, Wine Spectator)

 

Food Pairing: beef stew, lamb, roasted or grilled red meats

Alcohol: 14%

 

East Coast Wines - A Tasting

 American wine production is dominated by California, Washington and to a lesser extent Oregon. Nonetheless, wine is produced in all 50 states, and many of these wines are notable in their own right, offering regional distinctions worthy of further exploration. Indeed, we have previously featured wines of Pennsylvania and the Finger Lakes of New York in previous classes. For this tasting, we expanded the territory for our tasting profiles, delving into wines from states that include New Jersey and Maryland, as well as new ones from Pennsylvania (Philadelphia) and New York State (Long Island). 

Overall, the wines were very well received, even those from Maryland, which hardly springs to mind when considering states with an established wine culture.  However, the real standouts were the two selection from the North Fork region of Long Island, courtesy of my wine geek friend Kevin, who graciously offered to sell off a few of his prize collectibles for the edification of my students.  Cheers and Happy Tasting!

Fiore Traminette

Origin:  Pylesville, MD

Varietal: 100% Traminette

Production/Tasting Notes: Aromas of citrus, pineapple, pear; flavors of apricot, grapefruit; hint of honey

Food Pairing: poultry; seafood; salads; vegetarian fare.

Alcohol:12%

 

Harford Vintage Vidal Blanc

Origin: Forest Hill, MD

Varietals: 100% Vidal Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes: semi-dry; hints of orange zest, grapefruit; floral notes

Food  Pairings: Crab dishes; pear & Roquefort tarts; crepes

Alcohol: 13%

 

 

Mural City Rosé

Origin: Erie County; PA

Varietal: 100% Chambourcin

Production/Tasting Notes: Fresh, dry, fruit forward; snappy; zesty.

Food Pairing: hoagies; grilled chicken; roasted veggies

Alcohol:  12%

 

Lamoreaux Landing Yellow Dog Riesling 2021

Origin: Lodi, Seneca Lake, NY

Varietal: 100% Riesling

Production/Tasting Notes: "Scents of toasted grain, hints of orange and orange zest. Mildly off-dry, [crisp] flavors of apple and citrus, balanced and mannered, with limey acidity and the density of poached tuna." Wine & Spirits Magazine, 91 points.

Food Pairing: Smoked fish; spicy, Asian dishes; Indian curry

Alcohol: 11.1%

 

Ravines  Limestone Springs Vineyard Dry Riesling 2021

Origin: Geneva, Seneca Lake, NY

Varietals: 100% Riesling

Production/Tasting Notes: Limestone soil; skin contact in tank before pressing; low temperature fermentation in stainless steel tank; ages on lighter lees before bottling; dry style, delicate aromatics of tangerine, juicy peach; flinty, distinct minerality, vibrant acidity. (92 points, Wine Spectator)

Food Pairing: Spicy Asian fare; dessert dishes

Alcohol: 13.3%

 

Willam Heritage Outer Coastal Plain Merlot 2022

Origin: Mullica Hill, NJ

Varietal: 100% Merlot

Production/Tasting Notes: 10 months in 15% new French oak; Notes of strawberry; olive; forest floor; herbal hints of fresh thyme, oregano.

Food Pairing: Burgers; roast beef; ratatouille

Alcohol: 13.5%

 

Lenz Cabernet Estate Selection 2019

Origin: North Fork, Long Island, NY

Varietal: 100% Cabernet Franc

Production/Tasting Notes: Barrel-fermented in open-ended barrels; on the nose, woody, earthy, traces of mint, red cherry, violet, cardomom; hint of vanilla; on the palate, soft, velvety mouthfeel; notes of red plum, pomegranate, raspberry; unfined, unfiltered.         

Food Pairing: Lentil soup; herb-crusted lamb rack; pizza

Alcohol: 12.5%

Paumanok Grand Vintage Merlot 2013

Origin: North Fork, Long Island, NY

Varietal: 100% Merlot

Production/Tasting Notes: Aged for 15 months in French oak (30% new; 70% neutral). Delicate aromas of plums, cola, and licorice with hints of black pepper. The palate is lively, with creamy, dark fleshy fruit - black cherry, plum; dried herb, autumn leaves; mushroom. Warm and expansive on the mid-palate, with rustic tannins, leading to a persistent finish tinged with sweet herbs, hinting at dark earth notes. (93 points, Wine Enthusiast; 93 points Wine Advocate.)

Food Pairing: Mushroom dishes; pasta with pesto or herb sauce; roast pork;

Alcohol: 13%

  

Notes on Wineries

Mural City Cellars, Philadelphia's first independently owned urban winery located in Fishtown, produced its first vintage in 2019.  Grapes are sourced from small growers within a 300-mile radius, extending all the way to Erie, Pennsylvania.  The labels are designed by local artists. The wines tend to be low-intervention and therefore, lean toward the "natural" style.  Wines can be purchased  site for take away or enjoyed on site in their cozy, comfortable lounge or in the outside patio.

Lamoureux Landing Wine Cellars, located on Seneca Lake in Lodi, New York, operates on 119 acres of planted vineyards in 20 different vineyard blocks.  Founded in 1990 and powered by 100% solar energy, the winery produces predominantly Riesling, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc, among others including Gewurztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gruner Veltliner.

Ravines Wine Cellars, which cultivates grapes on both Seneca and Keuka lakes, offers two separate tasting rooms - one in Hammondsport, the other outside Geneva.  Highly touted for its Rieslings, the winery also produces very find Pinot Noirs and various red blends consisting of such varietals as Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Blaufrankisch. Founded in 2001 by Morton and Lisa Hallgren,  Ravines pioneered the bone-dry, minerally-tinged Riesling which has since become the touchstone of Finger Lakes wine.  Morten grew up on his family's estate winery in the Cotes de Provence and pursued an advanced degree in Enology and Viticulture in at a prestigious Ecole in Montpellier before working at Clos d'Etournel a "Second Growth" winery of great renown in the Medoc region of Bordeaux.  He also served as chief winemaker for Dr. Konstantin Frank's, before branching out on his own beginning with a 17 acre plot on Keuka Lake.  Ravines now possesses 130 acres of estate vineyards.

William Heritage Winery, based in Mullica Hill, also operates a tasting room in Haddonfield.  The winery, located in the heart of the Outer Coastal Plain AVA in Southeastern New Jersey. was established in 2001, after Bill and Penni Heritage began cultivating grapes on their property in 1999. The winery is he family farm on which the grapes are grown dates back six generations of farming.  Winemaker Kevin Bednar served as assistant winemaker at Gallo as well as other wineries in Australia, New Zealand and Austria.

Paumanok Vineyards is a family winery founded in 1983 by Ursula and Charles Massoud in the North Fork area of Long Island, perhaps the most touted wine region on the entire island. The winery specializes in estate grown, vinifera-based wines, including Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot with production limited to about 12,000 cases annually.  Traditionally dense planting at 1100 to 1400 vines per acre produces more concentrated fruit which leads to higher quality wines.

Lenz Winery, also based in the North Fork community, was orginally founded in 1978, then purchased by Peter and Deborah Carroll in 1988, who over the years worked to improve the quality of the wines together with head winemakers Eric Fry, Sam McCullough and Tom until they retired and passed on the reins to Thomas Spotteck and Jerol Bailey.  The winery employs the techniques of hand harvesting, hand-sorting, low intervention, delayed release and full cluster ripening to enhance the overall quality of the wines.