The wine culture of Georgia dates back at least 8,000 years and is documented as one of the earliest in human history. Hundreds of varietals are known to have been cultivated over the centuries and are noted for their distinctive wine-making techniques and taste profiles.
I had been wanting to do a tasting of Georgian wines for some time, but was concerned about availability. Indeed, I was obliged to source the wines for this tasting from Pennsylvania, New Jersey and online. There may be some bottle shops in Philadelphia that carry them, such as Jet Wine Bar, but for the best selection online shopping is the way to go. For example, I used the website for Potomac Wines and Spirits to obtain the amber wine and the red blend. The high shipping cost is somewhat balanced out by the low price of some of the wines. The Cherry Hill Total Wine store has a fair selection.
In any event, nothing beats a good Qvevri Amber or Saperavi pairing with authentic Georgian cuisine at one of the restaurants in Northeast Philadelphia or the newcomer, Sakartvelo, at 7th and Chestnut. Gaumarjos!
Marani
Mtsvane 2021 ($15.49 Total Wine, Cherry Hill)
Origin:
Kakheti
Varietal:
100% Mtsvane
Production/Tasting
Notes: Scents of grapefruit, lemon, wildflowers; tropical
fruit aromas; notes of green apple in the lingering finish; light acidity.
Food
Pairing: Grilled fish; salads
Alcohol:12.5%
Teliani
Valley Tsolikouri 2022 ($16 PA stores; $26 Total Wine - go figure!)
Origin:
Lechkhumi
Varietal:
100% Tsolikiouri
Production/Tasting
Notes: Fermented in stainless steel; aromas of green
apple, with notes of lemon, limestone;
fruit flavors of grapefruit, pineapple; salty minerality.
Food
Pairing: Grilled fish; salmon en croûte; salads
Alcohol:12.5%
Kakhuri Gvinis Marani Rkatsiteli 2022 ($17 Total Wine)
Origin: Kakheti
Varietal:
100%
Rkatsiteli
Production/Tasting
Notes: Aromas of peach, apricot; balanced acidity.
Food
Pairings: Trout; turkey; chicken; salads
Alcohol:
12.5%
Begaso
Skywatcher Kvevri Amber 2021 ($16 https://potomacwines.com/)
Origin:
Kindzmarauli
micro-district, Kakheti
Varietal:
100% Rkatsiteli
Production/Tasting
Notes: aromas of apples, pears, green tea; lightly tannic.
Food
Pairings: grilled fish or chicken; shellfish
Alcohol:
12%
Kindzmarauli
Marani Guardians Saperavi 2021 ($12 PA stores)
Origin:
Kakheti
Varietals:
100% Saperavi
Production/Tasting
Notes: Fruity, plummy; cassis; pomegranate; blackberry; smoke;
silky, yet sturdy tannins.
Food
pairing: Cheddar, muster; roasted or grilled; lamb; beef;
game; mushrooms; lentils;
Alcohol:
13%
Teliani
Valley Saperavi 2021 ($26 Total Wine)
Origin:
Kakheti
Varietal:
100% Saperavi
Production/Tasting
Notes: Stainless steel fermentation; medium-bodied; notes
of ripe sour cherry and pomegranate; vibrant acidity; firm tannins; lingering
finish.
Food
pairing: roasted meats; aged cheeses; burgers; pizza
Alcohol:
13%
Kakhuri
Gvinis Marani Saperavi 2020 ($13 Total Wine)
Origin:
Kakheti
Varietals:
100% Saperavi
Production/Tasting
Notes: Notes of cinnamon, cigar box, pomegranate, plummy,
earthy; intense berry fruit.
Food
pairing: Cheddar, muster; roasted or grilled; lamb; beef;
game; mushrooms; lentils;
Alcohol:
13%
Villa
Chven Aleksandrouli- Dzelshavi 2021 ($24 Potomac Wines and Spirits)
Origin:
Racha
Varietals:
75% Aleksandrouli-Mujuretuli; 25% Dzelshavi
Production/Tasting
Notes: Soft, velvety cherry and blueberry tones; balanced
acidity; lasting finish.
Food
Pairing: lamb stew; grilled meats
Alcohol:
14%
Notes
on Wine Grapes and Regions of Georgia
Saperavi,
which
means "something to color with,"
is the leading, and most widely planted, red grape varietal in Georgia. It
is vinified in many versions - dry, semi-sweet, full-on sweet, or fortified.
This very dark, inky, even opaque grape typically has aromas of dark berries,
licorice, grilled meat, tobacco, chocolate and spices. Sappy and tannic, it is now being grown in
the US, particularly in central Pennsylvania (Fero Vineyards) and the Finger
Lakes in New York.
Aleksandrouli
is
primarily grown in the mountainous hillsides in the Racha region of western
Georgia, consisting of stony, calcareous soil.
It is typically partnered with Mujuretuli,
producing a semi-dry red wine with good acidity and organoleptic properties of
cherries and pomegranates.
Dzelshavi
is
predominantly grown in Racha region, one of the smallest wine regions in
Georgia, and is believe to be one of the oldest varietals. Thin-skinned and producing light, fresh,
lively wines, it may be compared to lighter Beaujolais, Pinot Noir or Cabernet
Franc, and as such, may be slightly chilled for summer fare. It is often used as a blending grape, as in
the Villa Chven for this tasting.
Rkatsiteli
is
the leading white grape varietal in Georgia, representing 43% of all plantings
across 20, 000 hectares. Native to the
Kakheti region in eastern Georgia, it is the principal grape of this
region. Often blended with 15-20%
Mtsvane, the name means "red shoot" referring to the stalks. It is widely grown throughout Eastern Europe,
and also in the Finger Lakes. Restrained
but refreshing, it typically features notes of green apples, quince and white
peach, and might be compared to Petit Chablis or Pinot Grigio. In more recent years, it has been vinified as
an amber or skin-contact wine resulting in more
complexity and texture.
Mtsvane,
meaning "green from Kakheti", grows well in the calcareous soil of
the Kakheti region. Believed to be older
that Rkatsiteli, it is usually vinified either as a single variety or blended
with Rkatsiteli.
Tsolikouri, originating in
Kolketi, is the leading white grape
of western Georgia. It may be blended with lighter-bodied Tsitska or sometimes
with Krakhuna to produce Sviri wines. It
is also vinified as a single varietal. As the warm and sunny Georgian climate
allows Tsolikouri to naturally reach high sugar levels, sweet and semi-sweet wines are commonly
produced with this grape.
Brief
History of Georgian Wine
The roots of Georgian viticulture date back
approximately 8,000 years as discovered in grape pips in the region. Qvevri
- clay pots - are a distinctive feature of Georgian wine-making and were
the first vessels ever to be used in winemaking. The egg-shaped qvevri are buried in the
ground, ensuring optimal temperature for aging and storage of wine. The chacha (grape skins, stalks and pips)
sink to the bottom as the wine becomes enriched by volatile and non-volatile
elements, after which the wine is
separated from the chacha and stablilized.
Maceration time is typically about one month for both red and white wine.
Historically, over 500 unique, indigenous grape
varietals in Georgia have been recorded by ampelographers, although only a few
dozen are currently planted for commercial wine production. As in most of Europe, phylloxera wreaked
extensive damage on wine-growing regions throughout Georgia in the 19th century. Then, in the era of Soviet Collectivism,
diversity of varietals was greatly reduced.
However, with growing interest and research in Georgian enology, many
local varieties are being rediscovered and cultivated.
During the Soviet era, Ukraine was known as the
"breadbasket" of eastern Europe whereas Georgia was touted as the
region's wine cellar. Over 80% of
Georgia's wine production was exported to Russian, and quality took second
place to quantity.
As a result of the 2006 Russian embargo, Georgia was
obliged to turn to the West for potential export markets, and its wineries
began to focus more on quality and marketing, adapting their production
techniques to cater better to Western tastes.
