Long-time readers of this blog may recall that 10 years ago, I reported on a trip to the Central Coast wine region of California, the center of which is Paso Robles with almost 300 wineries radiating out in all directions. https://phillywineguy.blogspot.com/2015/08/forget-napa-paso-robles-is-where-its-at.html
Operating in the shadow of Napa for some decades, this wine region, in my opinion, has many distinct advantages for the passionate wine traveler, including fewer crowds, more personalized service, dazzling vistas, and not least, exceptional wines at more reasonable price points.
Ever since our first visit, my friends and I were keen to make a return trip. In fact, this journey was originally scheduled for the the spring/summer of 2020, but as you will recall, a little virus emerged with global ramifications. Finally, a long five years later, plans came together and in mid-October, we set off to further explore the enological, geographical and gustatory delights of the Central Coast. (Unfortunately, one of my friends and her partner had to cancel due to a sudden medical emergency - she's fine, incidentally.)
What follows then is a summation of the 8 wineries (4 in Part One, 4 in Part Two) we visited, two of which were return visits for me - Justin and Tablas Creek. Additionally, we did a day trip to the stunning Morro Bay with its iconic Rock Mountain on the edge of the sea. (The Hearst Castle in San Simeon is a popular side trip as well, which we did on the previous visit.)
On our first visit in 2015, I don't recall making reservations for a tasting, but do recommend it these days, although for most wineries, weekday walk-ins would likely not be a problem.
So sit back, relax and enjoy a virtual tour of this fabulous wine region and start making travel plans! Cheers!
Epoch Estate Wines
https://epochwines.com/
Nestled in the extreme southeast spoke stretching out from the town of Paso Robles and situated off a winding, rolling rural offshoot of Route 46, Epoch occupies one of the more hidden-away gems of the Central Coast wine region. Reservations are required, but well worth the extra effort. Indeed, the wines of Epoch set the standard for the rest of our tasting forays that week, and as such, in a word, we started off with a bang! Our welcoming and personable host and server, Taylor, who happens to be Assistant Tasting Room Manager, greeted us as soon as we entered the beautifully spacious and reconstructed lounge, bar and tasting venue with a glass of their 2024 White blend, consisting of Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Roussanne.
As it was quite a chilly and blustery day, Taylor graciously invited us to bring our picnic victuals into the lounge, whereas normally outside provisions are allowed only on the open air patios. This made for an exceptional, relaxing and leisurely wine and food tasting as we settled into the comfortable sofas, spreading out our various hors d'oeuvres on the low, rectangular tables and savoring the wines Taylor brought forth the wine samples and casually but expertly explained the attributes of each glass. (Another nice touch was that our tasting sheet, printed on off-white, hefty stock paper, included my name and birthday greeting on the front page.)
We proceeded on to the 2022 York Mountain Viognier, 6 months aging sur lie in French oak barrels, which struck me as one of the finest California Viogniers I've ever tasted, exuding a delightful freshness with notes of mango, lime and citrus blossom supported by flinty minerality and substantial body but not weighty. (I should point out here that the lion's share of Central Coast wineries are known for their Rhone style wines, both red and wine, single varietals and blends, and Epoch is a pre-eminent example of the very high quality of California's mirroring of its precursors.)
Moving over to the reds, we began with the 2021 Sensibility, a 100% Grenache sourced from their Paderewski vineyards, consisting of limestone-studded, dark, gray soils. Aged 17 months in 48% concrete tanks, this wine offers up aromas of fresh red raspberries, strawberries, crushed stone, coastal chaparral and a touch of orange and citrus rind. Tightly wound tannins ease up upon further aerating in this crisply textured expression of the southern Rhone's most notable varietal.
The second red we tasted was the 2021 Estate Blend, which mixed together the usual suspects - Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache, along with small amounts, less than 10% each, of Graciano, Tempranillo and Carignan. Aged 18 months in French oak barrels, this wine would also benefit from decanting or extra breathing time, and leans toward the savory, saline and briny, with aromas opening up to notes of Kalamata olives, leather, wet forest floor followed by blackberry, black plum, tobacco, bay leaf, vanilla, anis and graphite. Powerfully structured and tensely tannic, further opening over a few days will bring out even more textures and flavor developments. This is not to say we did not enjoy it immensely just over the hour or two we spent in the lounge.
Finishing off our sample tasting was the 2021 Authenticity, a 100% Syrah also aged 18 months in French oak barrels. As a huge fan of quality Syrahs, this one stood for me as an exceptional rendering of the Northern Rhone style, known for its energetic intensity and dueling flavor profiles of concentrated red/black berries and savory raw or cured meats, with hints of violet and fresh ground pepper all the while exuding wiffs of herbs de Provence and chaparral. Lively acidity, chalky minerality and firm tannins combine to make this Syrah an excellent complement to hearty fare.
The beautifully and meticulously restored and reconstructed building that houses the bar and tasting lounge, including a storage area for aging barrels, arose from the rubble of the original structure that was destroyed in a devastating earthquake in 2003. The Epoch property encompasses two main parcels - the Paderewski and York Mountain vineyards, both of which had producing grapes and wines for many decades. (You can read the full story on the winery website.) Such a historic setting and architecturally appealing edifice greatly enhanced our enjoyment of the tasting experience. See more photos below:
Niner Wine Estates
https://www.ninerwine.com/
Heading back towards Paso Robles on Route 46, the main artery of wineries -along which you'll find literally dozens of wineries dotting the highway - jutting out from town on the southwestern spoke, our next stop, after regaling ourselves at Epoch, was Niner Wine Estates, which sits back from the highway on a flatter, more low lying stretch of the road. Nonetheless, the structure is quite impressive, built with large, solid brown stones on the front of the building that opens up into an expansive, spacious reception area with the rectangular tasting bar to the right where we grabbed a couple of seats to enjoy our second go-round of tasting.
Our server was, shall we say, less enthusiastic and welcoming, at the very least, than Taylor at Epoch, however, we did our best to liven his spirits and try to be a little more engaging and forthcoming, and managed to get a few chuckles out of him with our silly jokes and commentary. The saving grace, as it were, was that the wines did not at all disappoint. We opted for the standard tasting which included two Syrahs, a Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and a Malbec blend. The winery's focus and strength are clearly on powerful, dense and complex reds with just a handful of whites to round out their portfolio.
The Estate comprises two main plots under cultivation: Jespersen Ranch in the Edna Valley, which is actually a coastal AVA, given its proximity to the Pacific Oean, and the Heart Hill Vineyard, which is adjacent to the main reception building. We started off with the 2019 (100%) Syrah from the Jespersen Ranch, a cool-climate vineyard which allows for a later harvest. The fruit is fermented for 1-14 days in stainless steel tanks then aged for 20 months in French oak barrels (31% new), resulting in a rich wine full of dark fruit, savory notes, toasting oak and dark chocolate.
Our next sample was the 2019 Reserve Syrah from the Heart Hill Vineyard that includes a touch of Mourvedre. The steep, rocky hillsides produce a richly textured and expressive wine with peppery notes and softer tannins melding with dark blue and black fruits. Fermented in stainless steel with both native and inoculated Rhone yeasts, the wine is then aged for 22 months in French oak barrels (83% new). Age-worthy for another 10 years or more, it would benefit from decanting for a few hours if drinking in the immediate future.
Third on our sampling list was the 2020 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from the Heart Hill Vineyard. Hand-harvested, destemmed grapes were fermented in stainless steel tanks for a long, slow maceration, followed by about 2 years aging in French oak barrels. The top 16 barrels were selected for this reserve and aged an extra 8 months. Rich and layered with elegant tannins, the wine balances out cherry, dark cocoa and cedar flavors for a memorable, long-lasting taste experience.
We rounded off our list of samples with the 2019 Reserve Twisted Spur, a blend of Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Mourvedre, which is souced from the Heart Hill Vineyard. Each varietal was fermented and aged separately for 14 months before blending and further aged in a new set of (French oak, 65% new) barrels for a total of 22 months. Rich and opulent with alternating layers dark fruit for a full-bodied mouthfeel, it can age well for another 10 years or more.
Apart from wine tasting sampling, Niner offers a highly acclaimed lunch menu that very much tempted us to return; however, time constraints kept us from partaking. No doubt, we would take this into consideration upon a return visit to Paso. We might even get a more lively and friendly server! The appearance of rainbow upon departing bodes well for such a revisit.
The following morning proved to be an unsettled day weatherwise as a large storm with potential severe downpours and high winds was threatening most of Southern California. Nevertheless, we persevered as we had reservations at the well-regarded Daou winery and nothing would stop us for our appointed time for lunch and a tutored tasting. As we would find out, out efforts were amply rewarded and indeed, exceeded expectations.
On our way, we did run head on into a very heavy, but brief downpour, but fortunately, the rain tapered off as we made our way to the northwest sector of the Paso Robles wine region, winding through twisty, turning, hilly roads that snaked over oak forests and rolling vineyards. It took us a while to find the right entrance to the Daou restaurant/tasting room as the estate is quite sprawling and has at least a few entrances, including one for deliveries and production facilities, which seem to through the GPS off kilter.
Once we reached the main visitor center, we were rewarded with stunning, panoramic views of vineyards, wooded expanses and grazing pastures that extended as far as the eye could see almost all directions. The storm clouds that rolled across the skyline only added to the dramatic landscapes creating unforgettable imagery to enhance the dining and tasting experience.
Upon entering the reception area, we were immediately seated and offered warm blankets as it was a rather chilly and windy day. Such a generous gesture of hospitality was only enhanced by our friendly, knowledgeable and welcoming host and server who proceeded to offer top notch service, recommendations and even off-menu wine samples.
Tastings are conducted in large, expansive dining areas both inside and outside where guests can order hors d'oeuvres or full meals from the menu to accompany flights, bottles or just glasses of wine. The outside patio was shielded somewhat from the chilly winds by full sized glass partitions below which were tables and chairs spread out among descending levels of gardened terraces with splended panoramic views of the hills and valley stretching out to the horizon. Because of the cool, rainy weather no one was seated in this area, but no doubt, in more agreeable weather conditions, I could see the tables fully occupied by wine aficionados. Fireplaces were roaring both inside and outside at the one end of the patio.
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| Sheltered outside patio |
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| Inside tasting and dining room |
The standard tasting flight started off with the 2024 Reserve Rose' which the hostess offered us even before we were seated. Crafted in the Provencal style, with 97% Grenache and 3% Sauvignon, this crisp, fruity rose was aged in French oak barrels for 7 months and exudes aromas of jasmine, lime zest, passion fruit and pineapple. Boasting summer flavors of orange, raspberry, green apple and starfruit, even on cool, blustery day, it was a delightful, introduction to what proved to be an exceptional array of deeply complex, plush, dense and full-bodied reds.
Next up in our flight was the first red, the 2022 Reserve Eye of the Falcon, a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Petit Verdot, and 1 % Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. The complex nose opens up with heady scents of violet, blueberry, black cherry, plum and baking spices, interspersed with hints of fennel, jasmine and graham cracker. The palate tantalizes with chocolate-covered cherry and white pepper spice as the lively tannins extend the long, integrated finish.
As we delighted in the rich, complex flavors of the Falcon, the large and abundant mezze platter arrived as our first food menu order to begin sating our appetite. The various hors d'oeuvres included hummus, fromage blanc, snap peas, baby carrots, radishes, cucumbers, romesco, romanesco and crusty whole grain bread. (We were so engrossed in tasting all the delicious food samples, that I forgot to take a picture of it!)
Number three on the tasting flight was the 2022 Limited Release Daou Cabernet Sauvignon, a single varietal aged 22 months in 80% new French Oak. The extra aging and choice of the best fruit from select vineyards enhance the elegance and robust aromas and flavors of the wine with layers of black fruit, plum, and blueberry complemented with nuances of licorice, vanilla, and thyme and a touch of cedar and toasted cocoa nibs. Finely structure tannins provide a velvety texture leading to a lingering, spicy, earthy finish.
The 2022 Estate Micho, a Right Bank style Bordeaux blend of 63 % Merlot and 37% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 21 months in 80% new French oak was number 3 on the tasting flight, and is named after the sister of the Daou founders, George and Daniel Daou. Sourced from particular Paso Robles vineyard blocks on the Daou estate, this round, velvety, elegant wine offers up aromas of violet, black cherry, blueberry, with hints of baking spice and dried herbs. Fine tannins and fresh acidity provide for a long, lingering finish.
Rounding out the tasting flight was the 2021 Estate Soul of a Lion, a Cab-dominated blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Petit Verdot, aged 22 months in 100% new French oak. The flagship Cab of the Daou estate, this dark, ruby-purple hued wine impresses with abundant aromas of black cherry, blackberry, black currant and blueberry jam interlaced with notes of baking spice, graphite and sage. Sumptuous layers of chocolate-covered blueberry, tobacco, mocha, vanilla and toasted oak interplay to render a concentrated and elegant mouthfeel with round, vibrant tannins - an exceptional tasting experience by any measure.
Curious readers will want to know, of course, how much it will set you back to purchase such a fine wine as the "Lion", as well as the others on the tasting menu. The Rose comes in at $40, the Falcon $75, the Ltd Release Cab $90, the Micho $85 and the Lion, a hefty $155. These prices may strike the casual wine drinker as quite elevated, but are in line with price points of the more prominent Paso wineries, and are very much reflected in the high quality standards. The $50 tasting fee allows you to sample each one and is waived with the purchase of 3 bottles. I should also point out that most servers at these wineries are more than happy to share extra samples of off-menu wines, sometimes even without asking. Such classy, generous gestures are part and parcel of the hospitality granted to guests.
McPrice Myers Wines
After our extended, leisurely mountaintop experience of gustatory and enological delights at Daou, we descended to the valley and wound our way along Route 46 in search of another winery that was open on a Tuesday afternoon and looked promising. We ended up at McPrice Myers, which I've since learned only recently opened up their new tasting room that featured sleek lines and a minimalist two-toned modernist design holding about a half-dozen small tables, a few couches and a long bar along spacious, tall windows the length of the room that looked out across the road to undulating vineyards.
There is also an outside tasting terrace on the opposite side of the barwith views of steep mountains rising up several hundred feet and lead to the Hilltop Estate Guest House, luxury accommodations for up six people with all sorts of amenities, including an infinity pool, and touting panoramic views overlooking vineyards and the tasting room.
Our tasting flight consisted mostly of reds, but began the 2023 Larner Viognier, the flagship white varietal synonymous with the Condrieu region of the Northern Rhone Valley in South Central France. McPrice Myers sources their grapes from vineyard from both estate plots as well as regions outside Paso Robles, notably, Santa Barbara County, as is the case with this Viognier, which originates from Ballard Canyon in the Santa Ynez Valley. Viogner is a heavier weight white and this medium-bodied Larner offers up notes of dried apricot, lemon rind, jasmine, peach and ginger, with well-balanced palate and restrained acidity.
All the reds we tasted featured Grenache, either as a blending grape or a single varietal, except for the 2023 Brave Fortune, a100% Syrah which is also sourced from the Larner vineyard and exhibits a rich and savory profile highlighted by complex notes of dark fruit, pepper, smoke and earthiness. Not for the faint of heart, it tops out at about 15.2 % alcohol.
The 2023 Sel de la Terre consists of 100% Grenache and is largely sourced from estate blocks in Westside Paso. Notes of black cherry, cola, cocoa, boysenberry and black pepper may be detected on the nose with a ripe, rich core of black cherry, layered with star anise, mace and clove of the palate leading to malleable tannins on the finish.
Grenache predominates in the 2023 L'Ange Rouge at 68% with 24% Syrah and 8% Mourvedre in a classic GSM Southern Rhone style blend featuring intensely deep aromas of elderberry, blackberry and toasted herb (thyme and oregano) that persist on the palate with pepper spice.
The ambience at McPrice Myers was definitely more chill and cerebral after the hustle and bustle of Daou so if you're looking for a calm, laid back tasting room (or patio in warmer weather) to just relax in and do some serious sipping, you will not be disappointed by this modest yet elegant setting.
Rounding out our tasting was the 2023 Beautiful Earth Red, a blend leading with 60% Grenache and diminishing contributions of Grenache, Petite Sirah, Mourvedre and Cabernet Sauvignon, and touted as their flagship Paso blend from the West Side vineyards. Rated 90 and 91 by Wine Spectator and Robert Parker, respectively, its spiced cherry, black fruit, herb and tobacco aromas and tense, tightly wound tannins and broad finish will develop nicely on a plush palate with further aging.
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