Revisiting Some of the Best of Pennsylvania

 As regular readers of the blog know, this is not the first time I've featured wines from Pennsylvania.   As the quality and number of wineries in the Keystone State steadily improves and grows, respectively, it behooves me to bring your attention to those local or regional wines that are worth checking out.  

Originally planned for a wine dinner that didn't quite come together as expected, I nevertheless had already drafted the following notes with the appointed wines resting in the cellar, and so I now present them to you. They are all available at the point of origin - all of which are lovely places to visit for a day trip, but some are also in stock at Wegmans off Route 422 near King of Prussia.  Every one comes heartily recommended, so the next time someone turns their nose up at PA wines (like this blogger used to do), enlighten them with these selections. Cheers!

Galen Glen Gruner Veltliner  2021 (~$18 at winery or Wegman's)

    

Origin:  Andreas, Lehigh Valley

Varietal: 100% Gruner Veltliner

Production/Tasting Notes: "Brimming with ripe pear and green apple aromas plus some white pepper. Juicy and mouth-filling for 12% alcohol, the spritz of carbon dioxide lifting the palate beautifully. Long, delicately spicy finish that pulls you back for more." James Suckling, 92 points.

Food Pairing: Aperitif; light appetizers; shellfish

Alcohol:12%

 

Karamoor Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($24)

Origin: Ft. Washington, Montgomery County

Varietals: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes: Aromas of honeydew melon, kiwi; hints of marzipan, vanilla bean, fresh celery; ripe, full-bodied flavors.

Food  Pairings: Light salads; appetizers; fried fish; pasta with tuna and beans

Alcohol: 12.7%%

 

 Penns Woods Cabernet Franc 2021 ($21)

Origin: Chadds Ford, Chester County

Varietal: 100% Cabernet Franc

Production/Tasting Notes: notes of dried herbs on the nose, along with red raspberry and roasted tomato; lively acidity; minerally tannins; well structured; long finish.

Food Pairing: beef bourguignon, lamb  gyro; Tomato Basil Cheddar; Gorgonzola, Ardi Gana 

Alcohol:  13%

 

Va La Mahogany 2014 (~$45)

Origin: Avondale, Southeastern Chester County

Varietals: Field blend of barbera, malvasia nera, charbono, petit verdot, carmine, teroldego, lagrein, sagrantino

Production Notes: Vine age 10-18 years; aged for 17 months in Burgundy and Pennsylvania barrels, followed by 7 months in the bottle before release.

Tasting Notes: very dense, concentrated, opening up to reveal red and dark fruit flavors; velvety, lush texture with hints of bramble, earthiness, dark chocolate, blackberry, spice; powerful, full-bodied but not overbearing; well-balanced, harmonious.

Food Pairings: lamb, prime rib, wild game, red sauces, aged meats and cheeses.

Alcohol: 14.4%

 

 Fero Vineyards Saperavi 2017 ($30)

Origin: Lewisburg, Susquehanna River Valley, Union County

Varietal: 100% Saperavi

Production/Tasting Notes: 18 months aged in oak; primary grape of the Republic of Georgia; 

extremely dark grape skin and juice due to red anthocyanin pigment; fragrant, fleshy, grapey, floral; creamy vanilla; faintly herbal, meaty notes; moderate acidity; long finish.

 

Food Pairing: beef stew, lamb, khachapuri (Georgian style bread with cheese)

Alcohol: 13%

 

Factoids about Pennsylvania Wineries

·       Pennsylvania boasts over 300 licensed wineries

·       There are five AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) in PA:

1. Cumberland Valley

2. Lancaster Valley

3. Central Delaware Valley

4. Lehigh Valley

5. Lake Erie

An AVA is federally designated wine grape-growing region in the U.S. distinguishable by its geography

·       Pennsylvania ranks 5th in the nation for wine production.  

·       Wine varietals grown in PA include Hybrid (for example, e.g,, Chambourcin, Seyval Blanc, Traminette, Vidal Blanc, Vignles); European, or Vitus Vinifera (Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gruner Veltliner, Merlot, Pinot Grigio, Riesling); and Native (Catawba, Concord, Delaware, Niagara)

·       Galen Glen was the first to plant Gruner commercially east of the Rockies in 2003.  The winery was founded in 1995, when owners Galen, a mechanical engineer and Sarah, a commercial chemist, purchased the Troxell family farm from Galen's father. Daughter Erin, with viticulture degrees from Cornell and the Vinifera EuroMaster program, is now the head of the wine growing team.

·       Anthony Vietri's Va La Vineyards specializes in field blends of northern Italian and French varietals, including  the skin-contact white dubbed La Prima Donna, a blend of Tocai, Malavasia Bianco, Fiano, Pinot Grigio and Petit Manseng.  I've previously touted this winery as Pennsylvania's best in a previous blog post, and though it's a tough choice among their cuvées, the Mahogany may be the finest wine ever produced in the Keystone  State.

·       Karamoor founders Nick and Athena Karabots established the winery in the early 2000s with the first plantings made in 2006, and now consisting of 27 acres under vine. Grapes planted include the classic French varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot and Sauvignon Blanc.  All wines are 100% estate grown.

·       Penns Woods Winery was founded in 2001 by Gino Razzo, an Italian immigrant who had spent decades as a wine importer before turning his attention making wines on farmhouse land near Chadds Ford. A small tasting room first opened in 2006, and as business expanded two more vineyard sites were planted. Their portfolio includes mostly Vitis Vinera wines along with the hybrid Chambourcin.

Wine Tasting: Sommelier's Choice

Over the many years I have been tasting wines and teaching wine tasting courses, there are certain wines that have stood out in my sensory mind bank and have also stood the test of time with regard to consistency in quality, value and overall pleasure in drinking.  It was not an easy choice to make as there are quite a few that I could have chosen.  However, for my latest class a few weeks ago, I chose a mix red and white, foreign and domestic, large and small producers, to offer a broad selection of widely available distinctive wines to suit a variety of occasions.  Hope you enjoy them as much as I do!

Cheers!

Galen Glen Gruner Veltliner  2021  ($17 at Wegmans or at the winery)

Origin:  Andreas, Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania

Varietal: 100% Gruner Veltliner

Production/Tasting Notes: "Brimming with ripe pear and green apple aromas plus some white pepper. Juicy and mouth-filling for 12% alcohol, the spritz of carbon dioxide lifting the palate beautifully. Long, delicately spicy finish that pulls you back for more." (92 Points, James Suckling)

Food Pairing: Aperitif; light appetizers; shellfish

Alcohol:12%

 

Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($14 at Total Wine; a little more in PA)

Origin: Lodi, Sonoma, Lake County, Monterey, Santa Barbara, Napa, California

Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes: Long, cool fermentation in 100% stainless steel tanks; aromas of white peach, honeydew melon, guava, passion fruit with citrus notes;; on the palate, tropical fruit flavors giving way to crisp, refreshing acidity and notes of tangerinc, lime sherbet;fresh-cut green apple; fresh-grated ginger; grapefruit; long, harmonious finish. (91 points, 31/100 Top Wines 2023, Wine Spectator)

Food Pairings:

Alcohol: 13.9%

 

Talbott Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay 2017 ($20 at Total Wine)

Origin: Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County, California

Varietal: 100% Chardonnay

Production/Tasting Notes: Long, cool growing season; deep sand, gravelly soil; medium-bodied; vanilla, brioche aromas; lush palate with dense fruit flavors of bosc pear, pineapple, melon.

Food Pairings: grilled fish or chicken; shellfish

Alcohol: 14.1%

 

Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva 2020 ($21 at Total Wine)

Origin: Denominazione di Origine Controllata Cannonau di Sardegna

Varietal: 100% Cannonau (Grenache)

Production/Tasting Notes: Estate grown; granite, schist, sandstone and limestone soil; fermentation on the skins in stainless steel vats; 6 months oak barrel aging; aromas of blackberry, cranberry, lavender, hibiscus, sage; medium to full-bodied; soft, polished tannins; undertones of chocolate; vibrant acidity; plum notes on the palate; long, lingering finish with tinge; of herbal, licorice. (94 points, James Suckling; 91 points, Wine Enthusiast, Vinous)

Food pairing: roasted meats; aged cheeses

Alcohol: 14%

 

Château de Nages Héritage Rouge 2020 ($20 at Total Wine)

Origin: Appellation Costières de Nîmes Contrôlée

Varietals: 70%  Grenache; 15% Mourvedre; 15% Syrah

Production/Tasting Notes: Rolled pebbles over iron-rich red clay; certified organic farming; manual harvest; native yeast fermentation, warm maceration for 20 days; partial aging in French oak barrels for 12 months; complex array of red ripe berries (raspberry, cherry), oriental spice, pepper, aromatic herbs; black cherry; licorice;  minerally; long, lush finish.

Food pairing: Cheddar, muster; roasted or grilled; lamb; beef; game; mushrooms; lentils;

Alcohol: 14.5%

 

 

Meandro do Vale Meao 2019 ($30 at Total Wine; less at Lisbon Wine in Spirits in Newark, NJ)

Origin: Douro Denominacao de Origem Controlada

Varietals: 44% Tourigo Nacional; 35% Touriga Franca; 15% Tinta Roriz; 4% Tinta Barroca; 2% Alicante Bouschet

Production/Tasting Notes: 14 months aging in French oak barrels;  ripe black fruit; mulled cherry; dried mint; earthy; creamy tannins; concentrated but, soft and fruity as it opens up; long, fresh, complex, chewy finish; (92 points, Wine Enthusiast; 91 points Wine Advocate; 89 points, Wine Spectator)

Alcohol: 14%

 

Notes on Wineries and Producers

Galen Glen Winery

Galen Glen was the first winery to commerically plant Gruner Veltiner in the US east of the Rockies in 2003.  The owners, Galen and Sarah Troxell, established the winery in 1995 on the Troxell family farm, purchased from Galen's father.     Transitioning from corporate jobs in mechanical engineering and chemistry, they represent the 7th generation to farm the land which sits atop a 1000 ft ridge on the fringe of the Lehigh Valley Viticultural Area.  Their daughter Erin, with degrees from Cornell University and the Vinifera EuroMaster program, heads the winegrowing program.

Joel Gott

Established in 1996, Joel Gott wines are known for their consistent high ratings among prominent wine publications at moderate price points and are sourced from vineyards throughout California, Oregon and Washington.  A 4th generation vintner, Gott first made waves among wine critics with his Zinfandel, which has since expanded to many varietals.

Talbott Vineyards

Specializing in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Talbot Vineyards was established in 1982 in the Santa Lucia Highlands, eventually incorporating two distinct estate vineyards, Diamond T and Sleepy Hollow, whose 1990 vintage Chardonnay garnered 100 points in a Wine Spectator retrospective tasting.        

Sella & Mosca

Sella and Mosca were an engineer and a lawyer, respectively, who, in 1899, established a winery after becoming entranced with a property in Alghero and imagining the possibility of recovering the uncultivated land to produce wines suited to the particular terroir, namely Vermentino and Cannonau.

Chateau de Nages

The Rhone Valley estate  of the Chateau de Nages was originally purchased during World War II by patriarch Joseph Torres.  Upon his death, the estate was passed onto his son-in-law Alfred Gassier, whose son Roger, in turn, invested heavily in planting high quality grape varietals, modernizing equipment and renovating the farmhouse. In 1993, Roger's son Michel took charge of the estate and focused single-mindedly was on transforming the Chateau into a premium organic winery.  His daughter Isabel joined the team in 2022.  The Costieres di Nimes appellation incorporates the Rhone Valley's southernmost vineyards. The Chateau has been cited over 10 times by Wine Spectator as one of the Top 10 French Wineries for Value.

Quinta do Vale Meao

The original property of this renowned Quinta goes back to 1877 when the matriarch, D. Antonia Adelaide Ferreira purchased 300 hectares of virgin land to be developed into a model farm from scratch.  Over the succeeding decades and generations, grapes were cultivated and vinified under the auspices of the Casa Ferrereinha. In 1998, Francisco Javier de Olazabal resigned from his position at Sogrape which had acquired Casa Ferrereinha to dedicate himself,  along with his son, to producing high quality wines wines at the Quinta, namely, Quinta do Vales Meao and the second label Meandro do Vale Meao.  In 2014, the flagship cuvée was awarded 97 points by Wine Spectator for its 2011 vintage, and ranked number 4 in the magazine's Top 100 of the year.

Chianti Classico - A Tasting

 There was a time when mentioning "Chianti" conjured up images of cheap red wine in large round bottles with straw casings, otherwise known as "fiaschi".  In my latest class, one of the objectives was to disabuse students of any such notions, and instead focus on Chianti Classico, and feature several iterations of this highly renowned toast of Tuscany.  We sampled Classicos from a variety of producers and subzones of the DOCG, and discovered the wide and diverse range of taste profiles that grace the Sangiovese-based wines from the rolling hills of central Italy whose history and traditions date back many centuries.  

I invite you to examine or re-examine the delights of this preeminent wine region which has seen a great renaissance of style and quality in the new millenium.

(All wines were purchased at Total Wine in Claymont Delaware, except the Cafaggios and the Clememente VII which were Chairman Select wines at the 11th and Chestnut Pa. store in Philadelphia.)

Tenuta di Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 ($22)

    

Origin:  Chianti Classico DOCG (Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita) Riserva

UGA Subzone: Greve in Chianti

Varietal: 100% Sangiovese

Production/Tasting Notes: Maceration with délestage and racking in stainless steel vats for about 20 days; malolactic fermentation; 24 months aging in French oak barriques; 3 months bottle aging; ripe, red berry and cherry aromas and flavors; lavender; violet; mid-weight texture;  earthy undertones; vibrant, fresh acidity with a backbone of firm, sleek tannins; lingering finish. (93 points, James Suckling).

Food Pairing: grilled meat; pasta

Alcohol:14%

 

Baruffo Cantalici Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 ($25)

    

Origin: Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva

UGA Subzone: Gaiole in Chianti

Varietals: 100% Sangiovese

Production/Tasting Notes: Hand harvested grapes; cold maceration, fermentation in stainless steel; 18 months (70%)  aging in French oak barrels; notes of berries, ripe plums, spice, tobacco and chocolate on the nose; soft, immediate opening on the palate with red fruit and rich, rigorous tannins; cherry and spice on the finish.

Food  Pairings: Roast game; fiorentina steak; pasta

Alcohol: 14.5%

 

           

 Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico 2021 ($28)

    

Origin: Chianti Classico DOCG

UGA Subzone: Castellina in Chianti

Varietal: 95% Sangiovese; 5% Canaiolo

Production/Tasting Notes: 7 days maceration with racking and pumpovers;14 months aging in barriques; 7 months bottle aging; fragrant, fresh aromas of red fruit, licorice, currant; hint of vanilla, cedar spice; soft, round, flavorful on the palate; persistent acidity on the finish. (89 points, Wine Enthusiast)

Food Pairing: medium-aged cheeses; lasagna; ragu' sauces; roast rabbit; braised veal shank

Alcohol:  13.5%

 

Castelli Del Grevepesa Clemente VIII Chianti Classico 2019 ($13; retail $25)

    

Origin: Chianti Classico DOCG

UGA Subzone: San Casciano

Varietal: 100% Sangiovese

Production/Tasting Notes: Cherry, plum fruit; vibrant acidity; ripe tannins; herbal notes of thyme, fresh oregano; spice, tobacco; velvety; lingering finishing; (90 points, Wine Spectator)

Alcohol: 14%

 

 S. Andrea in Colle Chianti Classico Riserva 2020 ($24)

    

Origin: Chianti Classico DOCG

UGA Subzone: San Cascino

Varietal: 100% Sangiovese

Production/Tasting Notes: fermentation up to 15 days; 24 months aging in French oak; medium-bodied; intense aromas of violet flowers, red berries; rich bing cherry flavor; white rose; vanilla; hints of spice and leather; complex, smooth.

Food Pairing: grilled or roasted meats; pasta with red sauce

Alcohol: 14%

 

Tenuta di Renierei Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 ($27)

    

Origin: Chianti Classico DOCG

UGA Subzone: Castelnuovo Berardenga

Varietals: 100% Sangiovese

Production/Tasting Notes: Made with organic grapes; 18 months aging in Allier oak barriques; "[F]ruity nose of peaches, plums, lemons, tea leaves, seaweed; vibrant, racy, medium bodied; tight-grained tannins and crunchy acidity. Salty undertones". - James Suckling, 93 pts.

"Spicy aromas of wild berries, ripe cherry, licorice and herbs with silky texture."  (Producer/label notes.)

Food Pairing: pasta with red sauce; grilled pork; hard cheeses

Alcohol: 14.5%

 

Cafaggio Basilica Solatio Chianti Classico Riserva 2015 ($20; retail $50)

    

Origin: Chianti Classico DOCG

UGA Subzone: Greve in Chianti

Varietal: 100% Sangiovese

Production/Tasting Notes: 24 months aging in Slovenian oak barrels; 6 months bottle aging; black cherry, plum, wild rosemary,thyme; measured, balance; soft, exuberant fruit; soft integrated tannins; fleshy, fruity finish. (92 points, Wine Spectator; 93 points Wine Advocate)

Food Pairing: mushroom risotto; slow cooked pork belly

Alcohol: 14%

 

Cafaggio Basilica Solatio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2017 ($20; retail $50)

    

Origin: Chianti Classico DOCG

UGA Subzone: Panzano in Chianti

Varietals: 85% Sangiovese; 15% Cabernet Sauvignon

Production/Tasting Notes: 18 months aging in French oak barriques; 12 months in glass-lined concrete vats; 6 months bottle aging before release; organic grapes; concentrated; "dense matrix of tannins"; blackberry, black currant, plum, tobacco flavors; lingering finish. (94 points, Wine Spectator; 92 points Wine Advocate)

Food Pairing: grilled steak or lamb

Alcohol: 14%

Factoids about Chianti Classico

·       The Classico region between Florence and Siena was defined in 1306 by the Lega del Chianti.

·       The Gallo Nero (black rooster) was selected by the Chianti League as its symbol in 1384.

·       In 1938, the association known as the Comissionaria Industria Fiaschi for the manufacture of fiaschi (straw-wrapped bottles) is created in Empoli. Fiaschi are not permitted for riserva or gran selezione selections.

·       Chianti earns DOC status in 1967, and DOCG status in 1984.

·       In 2014, the Consorzio Vino Classico introduces the gran selezione category, the highest quality from estate-grown grapes for Chianti Classico wines.

·       UGAs (Unita' Geografiche Aggiuntive) are approved by the Consorzio Vino Classico in 2021.  Currently, there are 11 such subzones.

·       There are 3 quality levels within the DOCG: Gran Selezione (5%), Riserva (38%) and Annata (57%). Aging requirements are 30 months, 24 months and 12 months, respectively. Minimum Sangiovese percentages are 90, 80 and 80, respectively.

·       47 different varietals (all red) may comprise up to 20% of the blend.

·       Sangiovese is the most widely planted grape in Italy, mostly in Tuscany

·       Sangiovese comes from the Latin saguis Jovis, meaning "blood of Jove". Other monikers include: Brunello, Prugnolo Gentile, Niellucio, Sangioveto, Morellino.  

 For more information on Chianti Classico, please see the following pictograms from the October 21, 2022 issue of the Wine Spectator: