Wine Tasting: A Rosé by Any Other Name

 Rosés have proliferated in recent years such that virtually any red varietal is likely being made into pink wine somewhere in the world. Not only have the grapes diversified in the wine production, but also the styles and the regions of origin. In my most recent class, we sampled wines from a variety of producers - well-established vintners and less familiar ones - and countries, including the New and Old Worlds. We compared rosés vinified from traditional varietals and those from less common, perhaps unexpected grapes. 

All wines were purchased at Pennsylvania Wine and Spirits stores, mostly at the 11th and Chestnut location.  The 20th and Market shop also has an excellent selection.

Jean-Luc Colombo Cape Bleue Rosé 2021 ($14 + tax)

                     

Varietals: 67% Syrah, 33% Mourvèdre

Classification: Provence (France) Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP)

Production/Tasting Notes: Dry, but with deceptively sweet notes; fresh, aromatic, fruity bouquet with spicy notes;  complex flavors of fresh raspberries, cherries; hint of black olive; elegant finish with touch of spice. (90 points, Wine Enthusiast)

Food pairings:  fish (fresh coho salmon, for example), poultry, vegetarian fare; also great as an apéritif

Alcohol: 12.5 %

Bieler Pere & Fils Sabine 2021 ($14 + tax)

    

Origin:  Coteaux d'Aix en Provence AOC

Varietal: 33% Grenache; 26% Syrah; 14% Cabernet Sauvignon; 19% Cinsault; 9% Rolle

Production/Tasting Notes: Fruit contracted from growers since 2005 in higher elevation vineyards in hills around Aix-en-Provence; nitrogen coverage following harvest to avoid oxygen contact; balance of delicate wild raspberry, white peach, herbs de Provence and lively acidity. (90 points, Vinous)

Food Pairing: fish (fresh coho salmon, for example), poultry, vegetarian fare; also great as an apéritif

Alcohol:12.5%

 

Château de Trinquevedel Tavel 2021 ($22 + tax)

    

Origin: Tavel Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC)

Varietal: 60% Grenache, 13% Clairette, 13% Syrah, 10% Cinsault, 3% Mourvedre, 1% Bourboulence  

Production/Tasting Notes: Cold skin maceration for 12-48 hours in cement tank; direct press; 20 day alcoholic fermentation in cement tanks; aged in enamel-lined, stainless steel tanks for 6-9 months; no malolactic fermentation;  pale garnet in color; abundantly perfumed with blossoms and watermelon; zesty blackberry and black fruit flavors backed by deep, penetrating undertones of crushed stone and spice. (93 points, Wine Enthusiast)

Food pairing: Salmon gravelax; osso-buco; veal with olives; white meat; grilled fish; spicy dishes; Asian cuisine; sweet and sour dishes.

Alcohol:  13.5%

Domaine des Carteresses Tavel 2021 ($14 + tax, Chairman's Select)

    

Origin: Tavel AOC

Varietals: 50% Grenache; 15% Mourvedre; 13% Clairette; 12% Picpoul; 10% Syrah

Production/Tasting Notes: Deep ruby-hued; intoxicating notes of candied cherries and violets; medium-bodied and brimming with juicy blackberry and black cherry flavors; elegant; boldly structured; lingering finish with streaks of charred herb and smoke. (92 points, Wine Enthusiast)

Food  Pairings: Salmon gravelax; osso-buco; veal with olives; white meat; grilled fish; spicy dishes; bouillabaise; Asian cuisine; sweet and sour dishes.

Alcohol: 13.5%

 

Buttonwood Grove Rosé 2021 ($22 + tax)

    

Varietal: 100% Cabernet Franc

Origin: Finger Lakes, New York

Production/Tasting Notes: Hand harvested; 12-hour skin contact before pressing; on lees for one week before fermentation (stabulation); subtle floral aromas accompanied by distinctive strawberry and raspberry notes; strawberry and mint on the palate; bright acidity and light body; body.

Food Pairing: Light appetizers; fresh green salad.

Alcohol: 11.5%

 

Amisfield Pinot Noir Rosé 2022 ($18 + tax)

    

Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir

Classification: Central Otago, New Zealand

Production/Tasting Notes: Hand harvested; cold soaked for 2-8 hours before pressing; cool fermentation; fine lees; nose exudes floral, rose water and red berry aromatics; juicy watermelon combined with fresh pomegranate on the palate; refreshing dry finish.

Alcohol: 13%

Clement et Florian Berthier Sancerre Pinot Noir Rosé ($28 + tax)

        

Origin: Sancerre (Loire) Appellation d'Origine Protégée

Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir

Production/Tasting Notes: Pale salmon-colored; mineral-tinged strawberry, tangerine and honeysuckle scents with spicy touch; juicy and exacting on the palate, offering refreshing orange zest and red berry flavors deepening and spreading out gradually on the back half; concentrated, lively; strong, persistent, red fruit-driven finish

Food Pairing: Quiche; charcuterie

Alcohol:  13.5%

G.D. Vajra Rosabella Vino Rosato 2021 ($20+tax)

        

Origin: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy

Varietals: 90% Nebbiolo; 10% Dolcetto and Barbera

Production/Tasting Notes: Saignée method with short skin contact; short time aging in stainless steel tanks; no malolactic fermentation; Heady, floral and fruity caromatics (rose, hibiscus, pomegranate, rhubarb, strawberry); bright and juicy palate incorporating red cherries, raspberries, rhubarb, hint of strawberry; thread of stony minerality; bright acidity; long fnish.

Food Pairing: Pizza; pasta with light sauce; grilled fish

Alcohol: 12.5%        

Bandol La Bastide Blanche 2021 ($25 + tax)

    

Varietals: Mourvèdre; Grenache; Cinsault

Classification: Appellation Bandol Contrôlée (Provence)

Production/Tasting Notes: Organic; aromas of strawberry cream, pomegranate, blood orange with floral and spicy accents; silky, refined palate with delicate but distinct flavors of melon and peach, lavender; light to medium in body but with texture and character of surprising weight and substance; long, floal fnish (92 points; Vinous)

Food Pairing: Bouillabaisse

Alcohol: 13%

Pfaffl Rosé vom Haus 2022 ($16 + tax)

        

Origin: Niedereosterreich (Austria)

Varietal: Zweigelt; St. Laurent

Production/Tasting Notes: Certified Sustainable winery; 36-hour maceration before low-pressure pneumatic press; fermentation and storage in wooden barrels before bottling; vine age between 19 and 29 years; aromas of raspberries, strawberries with a touch of spice on the nose; deep, complex red fruit flavors with spicy notes on the palate and finish.

Food Pairing: light poultry; fish; aperitif; sorbet

Alcohol: 13%

 

Factoids about Rosés

·       Production of rosé worldwide has increased substantially in the last decade from 35,000 cases in 2017 to 85,000 cases in 2020.

·       Traditionally, rosé has been made by the saignée method wherein the pale wine is run off vats of red wine after a brief fermentation when the color is still light pink.  These days higher quality rosé is produced as an end in itself focusing on select vineyards and vines which are cultivated, harvested and vinified uniquely for the pink juice.

·       Whereas the majority of rosé produced in the world follows the model of the Provence style in terms of hue, body and taste profile, rosé is currently being made from virtually all manner of red varietals offering a richer, fleshier and more varied gustatory experience.

·       Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Tempranillo and Pinot Noir are the most typical red varietals used to produce rosé.  White grapes, such as Clairette, are sometimes used in the red blend to balance texture, body and taste.

·       The Tavel appellation in Southern France by law produces only rosé.

·       King Louis XIV was a big fan of Tavel rosé and no doubt contributed to its renown.

·       According to a recent feature in the Wine Spectator, these five foods are particularly suited for rosé:

            1. Artichokes (Tavel)

            2. Asparagus (Provence)

            3. Eggs (Italian rosato from Etna or d'Abruzzo)

            4. Jamon (Spanish rosados)

            5. Bouillabaisse (Bandol, France)

For more on cooking with rosé, please see the following article from VinePair which includes a recipe for steamed clams with rosé:

https://vinepair.com/articles/rose-steamed-clams/?utm_source=The+Drop+by+VinePair&utm_campaign=b30cfaf7f5-May_30_2023&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_b653fb8c99-b30cfaf7f5-47192817&mc_cid=b30cfaf7f5&mc_eid=4bb0758b46

And for further recommended rosés, also check out VinePair's list of Best Rosés in 2023:

https://vinepair.com/buy-this-booze/25-best-rose-wines-2020/?utm_source=The+Drop+by+VinePair&utm_campaign=9fc9127ce1-May_25_2023&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_b653fb8c99-9fc9127ce1-47192817&mc_cid=9fc9127ce1&mc_eid=4bb0758b46

Wine Tasting - Spain Revisited April 2023

 It's been several years since I last led a tasting on Spanish wines (although I did do a wine report in conjunction with my trip to Barcelona right before the Covid lockdown in the spring of 2020), but with the continuing development of Iberian wine regions producing ever higher quality and good value fruit of the vine, it's always the right time to check out what's going in the fincas, viñedos and bodegas.  Spain is much more than just Rioja and Sherry, so here are some selections from an array of varietals and regions for your taste and enjoyment.  Olé y Salud!

Please note that for the 3rd class, I selected an alternate wine list for the same varietals and/or regions, so you have here a couple of options for each style!

Ossian Quintaluna Verdejo Seleccionado de Segovia 2019 ($20, Wine Works, Cherry HIll, NJ)

Origin: Castilla y Leon, Vino de la Tierra, Certificacion de Origen

Varietal: 100% Verdejo

Production and Tasting Notes: Stainless steel fermentation; aged 6 months on the lees in both stainless steel and oak; aromas of white flowers, orchard, stone fruit (peaches), citrus (lemon, Mandarin), with hints of tropical fruit; complex palate showcasing bright acidity, and almond and ripe fruit flavors; fresh grass and aniseed on the finish. (92 points, James Suckling)

Food  Pairing: shellfish; seafood; summer salad; goat cheese

Alcohol: 14%

 

Valdihuete  2021 ($9, Chairman's Select, PA; suggested list price $17)

Origin: Rueda, Denominacion de Origen (DO)

Varietal: 100% Verdejo

Production and Tasting Notes: Stainless steel fermentation; unoaked; aromas of white flowers, white fruit (pear, green apple), mineral, stony notes; vegetable nuances of fennel, herbs, brushwood; elegant, broad and persistent on the palate.  (90 points, James Suckling)

Food  Pairing: shellfish; seafood; summer salad; goat cheese

Alcohol: 12.%

Eulogio Pomares Zarate Albariño 2021 ($20, Wine Works)

Origin: Val do Salnes, Rias Baixas, Denominacion de Origen (DO)

Varietal: 100% Albarino

Production/Tasting Notes: Biodynamically farmed vines; granite soils; partial malolactic fermentation; 3 months on lees; crisp, fresh exhibiting linear, steely style; vibrant acidity; aromas of soft peach and pear with floral notes.  (94 points, Decanter)

Food pairing: aperitif; grilled white meats; fish; seafood; hors d'oeuvres; paella with lobster and chorizo

Alcohol:  12.5%

 

Martin Codax Albariño 2021 ($17.69, PA)

Origin: Rias Baixas, (Galicia) DO

Varietal: 100% Albariño

Production/Tasting Notes: Bright acidity, crisp minerality; notes of pear, passion fruit, apple; lemon, grapefruit; persistent, rounded, full-bodied on the palate.

Food pairing: aperitif; grilled white meats; fish tacos; seafood; hors d'oeuvres; paella with lobster and chorizo

Alcohol:  12.%

Dominio de Tares La Sonrisa de Tares Godello 2021 ($15, Wine Works)

Origin:  Bierzo, DO

Varietal: 100% Godello

Production/Tasting Notes: Slate, schist over clay soil; aged 5 months in stainless steel tanks on the lees; notes of white flowers, green apples, peach; smooth texture on the palate; refreshing acidity; long finish

Food Pairing: seafood ceviche; fish tacos; ahi tuna poke bowl

Alcohol:13.5%

 

Maruxa Godello 2019 ($19, PA)

Origin:  Valdeorras, DO

Varietal: 100% Godello

Production/Tasting Notes: Gently ripe flavors of white peaches, nectarines; hint of smoke on the nose; soft, rounded and juicy on the palate; clean, dry lingering finish.

Food Pairing: seafood ceviche; fish tacos; ahi tuna poke bowl

Alcohol:13.5%

Descendientes de José Palacios Pétalos Bierzo 2020 ($19, Wine Works)

Origin: Bierzo DO

Varietal: 92% Mencia; 5% other red grapes (Alicante Bouschet, Gran Negro, Pan y Carne, Negreda); 3% white grapes (Valenciana, Jerez, Godello);

Production/Tasting Notes: Slow malolactic fermentation over 2 months with indigenous yeasts in steel and oak vats; 8 months aged in barrels; fruit-driven; juicy, round on the palate; fine, powdery tannins; more balanced with bottle aging. (93 points, Wine Advocate)           

Food  Pairings: grilled duck with walnut pesto; blackened Cajun-spiced chicken; Iberico pork

Alcohol: 14.1%

 

Finca Luna Beberide Mencia Bierzo 2018 ($22, PA)

Origin: Bierzo DO

Varietal: 100% Mencia

Production/Tasting Notes: Clay, slate soil; aged in French oak barrels; nose of black cherry, sweet dark berries, espresso, slate, woodsmoke, smoked meats, cedar, graphite; deep, full-bodied and complex on the palate with creamy mouthfeel; long, complex, tangy finish. (92 points, Wine Advocate, Vinous)  On a personal note, I have to say this is the finest Bierzo Mencia I've ever had in the many years it's been a favorite of mine from Spain.

Food  Pairings: grilled duck with walnut pesto; blackened Cajun-spiced chicken; Iberico pork

Alcohol: 13.5%

Pagos del Rey Condado de Oriza Gran Reserva 2014 ($20, Chairman's Select, PA; suggested list price $40)

Origin: Ribero del Duero, DO

Varietal: 100% Tempranillo

Production/Tasting Notes:  Aged  24 months in French and American oak barrels; rich, powerful; complex notes of spice and leather, balsam wood, cedar and mulberry on the nose; deep, expressive on the palate; concentrated dark ripe fruits (plum, blackberry) flavors; long, elegant finish with smooth mouth-feel. (92 Points, Wine Enthusiast)

Food Pairing: Wild mushroom and eggplant; pasta with red clams sauce

Alcohol:  14%

 

Bodegas Olarra Reciente Gran Reserva 2015 ($16 Chairman's Select; suggested list price $65)

Origin: Rioja, DOCa

Varietal: 90% Tempranillo; 10% Graciano and Mazuelo

Production/Tasting Notes: Aged in American oak; two months on the lees; malolactic fermentation; 31 months oak aged, 45 months bottle aged; smoky and oak-tinged cherry and dark berry scents overlain with floral and spice nuances; broad and chewy on the palate, exuding bitter cherry, cassis and mocha flavors and a hint of licorice; long spicy finish with smoky notes and hint of espresso.  (93 Points, Vinous)  This is a classic example of a Rioja Gran Reserva, and if you able to snag the Chairman's Select discount (in PA wine stores) on a bottle, you may never find its equal at that price.

Food Pairing: Wild mushroom and eggplant; pasta with red clams sauce

Alcohol:  13.5%

Finca Bacara Time Waits For No One Monastrell 2017 ($12, Wine Works)

Origin : Jumilla, Denominacion de Origen Protegida (formerly known as DO)

Varietal: 100% Monastrell

Production/Tasting Notes: Hand harvested;  Aged 6 months in American oak barrels; powerful, intense nose dominated by ripe fruit aromas, with hints of new wood; balanced, round and savory on the palate;  (95 points, Decanter)    

 Food Pairings: roasted red meat; braised ox tail stew; baked eggplant stuffed with lamb mince; blue cheese, cured cheeses

 Alcohol: 14.5%

 

Ego Bodegas Marionette Monastrell- Syrah 2020 ($10, Wine Works)

Origin :  Tierra de Murcia, Indicacion Geografica Protegida

Varietal: 50% Monastrell; 50% Syrah

Production/Tasting Notes: Hand harvested;  separately fermented in stainless steel tanks; aromas of red fruit and floral hints complemented with subtle touches of wood; round finish with refreshing acidity and complex tannins. (90 points, Wine Enthusiast)       

Alcohol: 14.5%

Notes on Spanish Wines, Wine Regions and Wine Producers

·       The top two classifications of Spanish wines are Denominacion de Origen Protegida (previously known as Denominacion de Origen, which still appears on many bottles), and Denomincacion de Origen Calificada (DOCa or DOQ  in Catalonia) which includes only the Priorat and Rioja regions.

·       Both DO and DOCa wines distinguish the duration of aging before release:

o   Crianza - 2 years minimum aging, with at least one year in barrel

o   Reserva - 3 years minimum aging, with at least one year in barrel and 6 months in bottle

o   Gran Reserva - 5 years aging, with at least 2 years in barrel and 2 in bottle

·       Although Spanish wine cultivation dates back thousands of years, French wine merchants were instrumental in bringing about the modern era of Spanish winemaking after migrating (predominantly to Rioja and Penedès) during the Phylloxera infestation of the 19th century.

·       Spain has more land under vine than any other country and ranks third in wine production after Italy and France.

·       Castilla y Leon is Spain's largest wine region and includes many DOs, such as Bierzo and Toro, as well as some quality producers labeled DO Vino de la Tierra.

·       The Ribera del Duero DO was established in 1982, about 120 miles north-northwest of Madrid.  Cultivation under vine increased five-fold from then until 2020, from 12,350 acres to over 59,000.  Today there are more than 300 wineries, including Bodegas Vega Sicilia, one of Spain's most acclaimed, founded in 1864.

·       Monastrell is the varietal known as Mourvèdre in France.

·       The Jumilla DO, created in 1996, is an arid and mountainous region northwest of Murcia, with a heritage in old vine Monastrell.

·       Rias Baixas, a DO in the Galicia region of northwestern Spain, adjacent to Portugal's northern border, is best known for its Albariño (Alvarinho  in Portuguese) wines.