A Wine Dinner of Classics and Other Notables

 Recently, I was invited to the curate the wine selection for a friend's dinner party.  The original idea was to feature wines a bit off the beaten path, which we did indeed do, supplemented by a few French classics as well as other readily available favorites.

I have often touted the excellent value of crémants, French sparkling wines produced in regions outside of Champagne.  For this occasion, I offered a crémant de Bourgogne from my own cellar which I was anxious to share with other wine lovers, and indeed, it was a great success.  The Savoie blanc de blanc was one of the off-the-beaten- path selections as it is vinified from a blend of several different varietals, including a few regional ones that are particular to this Alpine region.

The South African Chenin Blanc is another crowd pleaser and a delightful alternative for the Pinot Grigio sector. For those Pinot Noir aficionados, do not overlook those Spatburgunder from Southern Germany; they may be harder to find, but worth the trouble, and usually a very good value.

There is nothing quite like a top Beaujolais cru from Morgon as a great food wine, also a very affordable pleasure.  And is there any other way to finish off a delicious meal than a Sauternes paired with a freshly prepared dessert?

A tip of the tocque to our host Robin for organizing and preparing the menu, as well as the guests who whipped up the creamy corn soup and delicious fruit crumble. (My bad for forgetting to snap a picture of this luscious dessert!) 

All wines were purchased at the Pennsylvania wine and spirits stores, although some may have limited stocks.

JCB No. 21 Brut Crémant de Bourgogne NV (Non Vintage)

Origin: Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) Bourgogne, France

Varietals: Pinot Noir; Chardonnay

Production/Tasting Notes: From the house of Jean-Charles Boisset, who grew up the village of Vougeot, Burgundy; his portfolio features over 40 wines, including vineyards in Burgundy, Napa and Sonoma; this sparkling wine exudes a fresh, fruity nose (green apple, pear) with almond and white flower aromas; laced with crisp acidity, citrus; brioche; full, generous mouth feel. (90 points, Wine Enthusiast)

Alcohol: 12%

Food Pairing: Shrimp salad on toasts; stuffed cucumber barrels; olives

        

    

Varichon & Clerc Privilège Blanc de Blanc Brut NV

Origin: Savoie, France

Varietals: Altesse; Molette; Chardonnay; Chenin Blanc; Maccabeu

Production/Tasting Notes: Méthode champenoise; smooth, creamy; flavors of pear, apple, vanilla, toast.  Altesse is a white grape varietal prominent in the eastern France noted for its full-bodied, concentrated wines, featuring floral, nutty notes with good acidity. Molette is also primarily planted in the Savoie region and typically used as a blending grape.

Alcohol:  12%

Food pairing: Shrimp salad on toasts; stuffed cucumber barrels; olives

            

Ken Forrester Petit Chenin Blanc 2021

Origin : Western Cape, South Africa

Varietal: 100% Chenin Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes:  Hand-harvested; fermented cool; duplex soil with decomposed granite and fine sandy loam on a clay base; fresh, youthful wine with pear, quince flavors intertwined with green apple, grapefruit notes; tangy finish.

Alcohol: 13.5%

Food Pairing: Fresh corn soup

             

Weinhof Scheu Spatburgunder Pfalz Trocken 2017

Origin: Schweigen, Pfalz, Germany

Varietal: 100% Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir)

Production/Tasting Notes: 22 year old vines; clay soils; hand-harvested; 14 day maceration followed by 10 day fermentation; aged in 2500 liter oak barrels for one year before filtered and bottled; complex aromas of black cherry, cassis, wild berry with underlying notes of oak wood.

Alcohol: 13.5%

Food  Pairing: Stuffed chicken breast; vegetable tian; salad

         

   

Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte de Py 2020

Origin: Morgon AOC

Varietal: 100% Gamay

Production/Tasting Notes:  Intense bouquet of black cherry, forest berry, black olive, saline notes; medium-bodied with silky-smooth tannins; notes of bitter chocolate; lively acidity; long, persistent finish melding black cherry, blueberry, blood orange, citrus fruit. (95 points, James Suckling)

Alcohol:  13.5 %

Food Pairing: Stuffed chicken breast; vegetable tian; salad

            

Château Laribotte Sauternes 2018

Origin: Sauternes AOC

Varietals: 95% Semillon; 4% Sauvignon Blanc; 1% Muscadelle

Production/Tasting Notes: Complex notes of acacia, white flower, lemon, honey; rich, fruity mouth feel with flavors of candied fruit, orange peel and apricot. (90 points, Wine Enthusiast)

Alcohol: 13%

Food pairing: Cherry fruit crumble à la mode

 

Adventures in New Jersey Wineries

You don't have to go to all the way to California, Oregon or even upstate New York to spend a pleasant afternoon sipping wines and nibbling on small plates of cheese and charcuterie, and perhaps enjoy some live music to boot.  Granted, you can't expect to always find top quality quaffs in the Garden State, but chances are you'll come across at least a few wines that appeal to your tastes.  So far, I haven't discovered a particular winery across the Delaware River whose products have blown me away.  Still, each of the three establishments that I visited recently offer at least a few wines and/or amenities that make the trip worthwhile, especially if the weather cooperates.

The White Horse Winery in Hammonton is located just a few miles off the Atlantic City Expressway (and so, is easily accessible if you're spending some time down the shore near the gambling mecca), and features estate grown wines as well as wines sourced from outside the state - indeed, all three wineries reviewed in this post include a mix of estate and non-estate grown wines, which is quite common in most Jersey wineries.  

Although the wines that my companion and I sampled - from both sources -  were very respectable and generally well-made, the real selling points are the lovely, and mostly shaded, grounds, relaxed ambience and generous, friendly service.  There was also live music in the form of a singer on acoustic guitar.

Food options included small plates provided by the winery as well as an independent food truck situated near the outside seating area.

My friend and I decided to order both the white flight and the red flight to get the widest sampling of White Horse's offerings.  The white sampler featured two estate wines - Albarino and Vidal Blanc, whereas the red sampler included just one estate wine - Chambourcin.  (There is also a sampler of sweet wines that includes an estate Traminette.)  Albarino, largely associated with Spain (and Portugal as Alvarinho), is becoming more visible in Pennsylvania and New Jersey vineyards. The White Horse version was even more full-bodied and lush than I would have expected, exuding notes of white stone fruit, white flowers, and almond, laced with undertones of minerality and bright acidity.

Generally speaking, I'm not a big fan of Chambourcin as I find that it's a difficult grape to vinify well, often producing thin, angular wines that are not well-balanced and not integrating well its herbaceous and fruit characteristics.  That said, White Horse does a reasonably good job in bringing these various elements together in a pleasant, enjoyable wine featuring spicy, herbal notes along with black cherry and plum flavors on the palate.

Lastly, the food boards were attractively presented and more than ample to satisfy a couple of imbibers.  We were lucky to visit on a rare, comfortably warm, low-humidity summer day, of which there  have been precious few this season.

 

Cape May County has quite a few wineries, both within the town limits as well as in the surrounding area, so you have a choice as to how far afield you want to go in case you're staying there for a few days or more.  On my trip down there, my companions and I visited a few wineries within a mile or two of each other off the same road so we didn't have to worry about losing our way,

The Natali (pronounced nah-TAL-ee) Vineyards, situated down a long gravel stone one-way lane off Route 47, offers an oasis of seclusion and rural respite from the beach crowds and hustle and bustle of the boardwalk and town centers with plenty of outdoor seating (although the heat our day of visit precluded imbibing en plein air).  The inside tasting room has plenty of room to stretch in an air-conditioned environment with small plates available to accompany your tasting.

As evident in the above photo, the charcuterie plate is quite abundant (and tasty!) and can easily serve 3-4 people.  There is also a food truck on weekends or for live music evenings during the week.  As for the wines, we sampled an array of whites and reds that are served in small plastic cups which you can then pour into a stemmed wine glass to fully appreciate the wine.  Most of the wines are estate grown or sourced from New Jersey, although some are vinified from out-of-state grapes.

The "Goshen" is a blend of  Albarino and Viognier which complement each other very nicely balancing the floral notes and acidity of the Spanish grape with the more viscous, apricot flavor of the French varietal.  The real stand-out, however, as expressed unanimously, was the Cabernet Franc with its smoky nose and cherry aromas, supported by smooth, elegant tannins and food-craving acidity.  At $24 a bottle, this is worthy of some of the best Jersey Cab Francs fetching much higher prices.  I also enjoyed the Tempranillo which features jammy notes of fig and dried plum and would pair well with spicy red-sauced pasta or grilled lamb.

The winery also produces its own mead as well as several fruit wines sourced from the Garden State.  Look for locally made jams as well, especially the Black Aronia jam from Jalma Farms sold in the tasting room.

Two connoisseurs inspecting the grapes at Natali

Just a mile or so down the road from Natali is Jessie Creek Winery which also features estate bottled wines as well as others produced from grapes sourced from outside the New Jersey.  The tasting room is a rather large space with a hodgepodge of comfortable sofas and couches along with up-right chairs and tables.  There is an outdoor area reserved for tasting, but on a such a hot day, there was no question that we opted for a cool, inside refuge from the afternoon sun.  

After ordering a wine sampler in the reception area, you can pick up the wines in the lounge to relax and sip. (On the other side of the reception area is a gallery space featuring works by local artists.)  Sample wines are presented in wine spirals which makes it easy to track the wines as you taste from top to bottom.

There are several options for sampler : red, white, off-dry, port/ice, anniversary, as well as build-your-own.  You can also choose to pair wines with chocolates.

We chose the Anniversary sampler which included 2 whites, a rosé, and 2 reds.  Only the Pinot Gris in this selection was estate grown, and it was hands down the top of the pick - a lush, powerful, medium to full-bodied wine with complex flavors of white flowers and stone fruit, and a lingering finish.  Of the reds, the reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was disappointing in that the typical characteristics of the varietal were not well integrated or balanced, especially in consort with the high alcohol content.  

To sum up, Jersey wineries can offer a pleasant experience as a get- away from the day-to-day routine, especially when the weather cooperates, and among the run-of-the-mill wines available, you just may find a real gem.  There are many more wineries to explore in the Garden State, so this report is by no means a definitive assessment.  It does, however, point to its potential, and as quality improves, there is all the more reason to seek out locally produced fruit of the vine.

Virginia - In Vino Veritas

 Earlier this month, I took a week-long trip to Colonial Williamsburg and Jamestown, and as many of you know, wherever I travel, I'm always on the look out for local wineries that are worth visiting.  This is especially true for the state of Virginia which is fast becoming one of the nation's top destinations for wine connoisseurs.  The majority of the state's wineries are located in the northern and northwestern region, but there is a smattering of vineyards and wine-makers in the Historic Triangle region of eastern Virginia.

The first of the three wineries I visited in the Williamsburg area is right next to the historic Shirley Plantation, about 30 minutes from the town center off the John Tyler Memorial Highway (Route 5).  (The plantation itself is worth a visit as National Historic Landmark and one of the nation's oldest active family farms, going back eleven generations.  https://historicshirley.com/ )  The neighboring winery shares the landmark's name as the Upper Shirley Vineyard  https://www.uppershirley.com/ )

My visit was well-timed as the winery had just opened for business that day after I'd completed my tour of the Shirley Plantation, and since the heat had already begun to move into the oppressive stage, a nice, cool, air-conditioned tasting room and dining area was a welcome respite. (When the weather is more amenable to outside imbibing, the winery boasts a very spacious veranda and garden area where drinks and food can be enjoyed.)

Although it wasn't even noon yet, patrons had already arrived for an early lunch and wine-tasting, which was a good sign.  Furthermore, the inside tasting room/dinning area and banquet hall were tastefully decorated, clean and bright.

Wines are available by glass, bottle and in a multi-wine tasting kit which comprises up to ten samples in pre-packaged plastic cups, along with a wine glass that you can take with you as a souvenir.  Also included is a detailed description of each of the wine samples.  My kit featured Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay, White Blend, Rosé, Petit Verdot, Tannat, Divertido (Mourvèdre), and Zachariah (Bordeaux style blend).  I found all the wines well-made and well-balanced, exhibiting characteristics typically associated with the particular varietal or blend, but the standouts for me were the Petit Verdot, Tannat and Zachariah which were exceptional in their expression of the grapes' distinctive flavor profile.  I ended up purchasing a bottle of the Petit Verdot ($32) which is becoming a kind of signature varietal of Virginia as a full-bodied, age-worthy stand-alone red.

As an added plus, judging by the delicious and abundant roast chicken salad I thoroughly enjoyed, the kitchen does a bang-up job with the menu, so don't hesitate to pair your wine(s)  with a scrumptious dish.

About a half hour's drive north of Upper Shirley Vineyards, just off  Route 64 is the New Kent Winery at Dombroski Vineyards, https://newkentwinery.com/ which also houses the Talleysville Brewing Company so that you can sample both estate wines and craft beer at the same venue.  (After tasting several wines, I opted for a draft brew - the Southern Rail Red Ale -  to accompany a small plate which was appropriately refreshing on a super hot and muggy Tidewater afternoon.)

You can ask to sample wines at the bar in the tasting room, but there was no seating inside (at least when I was there) so to order a full glass or bottle to share, you can take it outside to the spacious veranda and garden area.

Featured wines include Chardonnay, Vidal Blanc, Merlot, Norton, Cabernet Franc and Meritage blend.  As you can see, there is a strong French influence on the varietals grown in this area.  I sampled most of the reds which were all good quality and well-produced, boasting fine flavor profiles associated with the particular varietal(s). You may not be familiar with Norton, which is a hybrid thought to be the oldest commercially produced American varietal. Discovered in Missouri in the early 19th century, it is now predominantly grown in Virginia. Medium to full-bodied, and exhibiting red fruit characteristics and taut tannins, this is a good red option which does not overwhelm, yet holds up well on its own and is definitely food friendly.

I was especially taken by the Cabernet Franc which is rich in plum, black cherry, and forest floor with hints of oak and caramel from 24 months of aging. (This was my choice to bring home.)  Price points are quite reasonable, given the quality and regional production, ranging from the low $20s to the low $30s.  There was also a very good deal on a 4-pack of the Meritage in 250ml cans, perfect for a solo diner.  At just $20, I couldn't pass it up!

See below for the full list of wines and beers at the time I visited:  

My third and final visit on this trip was to the Williamsburg Winery, which has a Tasting Room on the main drag down the street from the colonial district. However, I chose to visit the actual headquarters located just a few miles outside the town among the vineyards. 

 I must say that I was a little hesitant, since Williamsburg is very much a tourist destination and I thought the winery might be just capitalizing on the large influx of visitors to the area and producing wines of little distinction to an unsophisticated, less discerning clientele.  I am happy to report that I was pleasantly mistaken.  All the wines I tasted were of good quality and well made; and once I made known to the server that I knew a few things about wine, he opened up to me about his own oenological interests and experiences, and even had me taste one of their top issues that was off the tasting menu.  A tip of the hat to Carmen, if you ever read this.

There are several tasting flights that are available, as well as wines by the glass or bottle.  I chose the Red Wine Flight as I really wanted to sample the Cab Franc and Petit Verdot to compare with the other Virginia wineries I had visited.  The flight then consisted of the 2020 Virginia Cabernet Franc, the 2020 Barrel-Aged Virginia Claret, the 2019 Virginia Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2020 Virginia Petit Verdot.  All wines were oak aged for at least 12 months. To my palate, the Cabernet Franc was closer to the Loire style than that of the Upper Shirley - leaner, more herbal with hints of green pepper and rhubarb, less fruit-forward.

The real standout was the Barrel Aged Claret, a blend of Merlot, Cab Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Tannat. (I purchased a bottle to take home with me.)  All these varietals combine harmoniously to create a wine of great approachability yet fully layered with notes of red and black cherry, vanilla, cocoa, and supported by and integrated with tannins.  This is especially remarkable given the rough year weather-wise according to the winemaker.

 As I noted above, the Petit Verdot is becoming recognized as a mainstay of Virginia wineries, and in keeping with this recognition, the Williamsburg Winery's is a worthy entry, boasting a complex flavor profile, including ripe, dark fruit; cola; leather; herbs and graphite.

The off-menu sample Carmen graciously offered me was their top-of-the line 2017 Adagio blend consisting of Tannat, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  This exceptional wine brings forth a wide array of rich, complex fruit notes, including dates, figs, red raspberry, and dark cherry as well as blueberry and cassis. Balancing out the flavor profile are hints of black pepper and black olive, well integrated with supporting tannins and oak.  At $68 a bottle, it's well worth a special splurge. (Most of the other wines are in the $20-30 range.)

Small plates are available to accompany the wines and there is also a separate restaurant/tavern just opposite the winery at the same location.

To sum up, if you happen to take a trip to Colonial Williamsburg, be sure to take time to visit a winery to relax, sip and savor as a break from all that history.

Wine Tasting By The Shore - Selections from My Cellar

 Earlier this summer, a small group of friends and wine aficionados gathered together for their annual tasting and dinner by the shore.  This year I decided to feature wines from my own private cellar, focusing on summery sips, including three whites, one rosé and one red from both the Old World and New World. Some were old favorites, others more recent discoveries.

Our hosts once again outdid themselves in preparing a delicious array of tasty delights, meticulously prepared and presented, that complemented the wines beautifully.

The menu included mouth-watering treats such as pigs-in-a-blanket, burrata, tomato pie, foccacia with grapes, roast salmon accompanied by pasta, broccoli and fruit salads.

As for the wines, pretty much every one was a hit, with distinct favorites for each person.  I was pleased that the Torrontés received rave reviews since it's not widely known among US consumers and has a very distinctive aromatic profile.  A special mention is also in order for the Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc which I purchased in the pre-pandemic days during a multi-stop tour of wineries.  I remember enjoying it very much at the time, and it aged nicely in the intervening years.

See detailed notes below on the wines, varietals and wine-makers.

Cheers!

Quinta da Alorna Arinto 2018

Origin: DOC Do Tejo (Portugal)

Varietals: 100% Arinto

Production/Tasting Notes: Fermentation at 17 degrees Celsius in stainless steel vats; intense aromas with notes of citrus fruit, banana, and green tea; crisp, vivacious acidity; persistent finish with aromatic sensations   

Food  Pairing: seafood; red fish; Asian food; cheeses with mild aromatic intensity

Alcohol: 13%

 

Karen Birmingham Rosé of Pinot Noir 2020

Origin: Lodi, California

Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir

Production/Tasting Notes: Fruit-driven, delicate, light, crisp; crushed rosehips, raspberry

Food pairing: light, summery hors d'oeuvres

Alcohol:  12.5%

 

Rancho Campo Torrontés 2019

Origin : Mendoza, Argentina

Varietal: 100% Torrontés

Production/Tasting Notes:  Ebulliently, intensely aromatic and perfumy; nectarine; cardamon; white flower; citrus notes of orange, lime and grapefruit; bright, zippy acidity; light velvety palate.

Food Pairings: scallops, white fish; goat cheese on fruit toast; Thai green curry; salmon; piri piri chicken

 

Alcohol: 13%

 

Roberto Sarotto Virgilio Gavi 2020

Origin: Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) Gavi (Italy)

Varietals: 100% Cortese

Tasting Notes: Expressive aromas of acacia, floral scents, green apples, Bosc pear, ripe lemon; apricot; dry, crisp acidity; refreshing palate with elegant, fruity character; long finish.

Food  Pairing: light appetizers; fish, white meats

Alcohol: 12%

 

Domaine Le Seurre Cabernet Franc Barrel Collection Cuvée Classique 2014

Origin: Keuka Lake, Finger Lakes, New York

Varietals: 100% Cabernet Franc      

Production/Tasting Notes:  22 months in French oak Barrels; aromas of red berries, smoke, herbs, minerals; light to medium body;

Food Pairing: lamb shank; grilled, roasted meats; barbecue ribs

Alcohol:  13.5 %

 

Notes on Grape Varietals and Winemakers

Arinto

Primarily grown around the Lisbon area, particularly the Bucelas region. Found in either single varietals or in blends with over native Portuguese grapes. Naturally high in acidity and similar in profile to Sauvignon Blanc; expresses an array of citrus fruit notes, especially lemon and grapefruit (but without any of the "cat pee" aromas sometimes associated with the New Zealand varietal) as well as stone fruit such as peach flavors when aged

Torrontés

Recognized as the signature white grape of Argentina, it's actually a class of grapes representing several varietals grown in high altitude regions (up to 10,000 feet), particularly the Salta. Often intensely aromatic and perfumy with notes of spice and white flowers. Widely blended with Chardonnay.

Cortese

Primary white varietal associated with the Gavi region of southeast Piedmont.  Noted for its bracing acidity, with crisp, lime, herbal and grassy aromatic notes and flavors of apple, peach and honeydew.  Historically, dates back to the 17th and long considered Piedmont's white varietal.  Also found in the Veneto region where it's typically blended with Trebbiano and Garganega.

Domaine Le Seurre

Located on Keuka Lake in the Finger Lakes region of New York State.  Owners Sebastian and Celine LeSeurre, after initial studies in France, traveled the world working at and exploring numerous wineries and vineyards before settling in Keuka Lake where they would establish their own winery.  Their wines include typical varietals of the region such as Riesling, Chardonnay, Gerwurztraminer, Cabernet Franc and Lemberger.        

Karen Birmingham

Worked for many years at LangeTwins Winery in Acampo, California.  She now produces wines for Naked Wines, featuring varietals from the Lodi region, including Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.