Rosé Wine Tasting: Round 1

This past Tuesday evening (May 20) our wine tasting group gathered on a wooded knoll on the grounds of the Unitarian Church off Lincoln Drive to sample an array of delightful rosé wines from around the world.  It was a pleasant evening to toast the impending Memorial Holiday weekend and the summer season.

We started off with my favorite "house" rosé, Jean-Luc Colombo's "Cape Bleue" which at about $13  a bottle (and widely available in PA, NJ & DE) is hard to beat for a intoxicatingly aromatic, fresh and fruity Provencal rosé with a intriguing hint of spice.

Next up was what many consider to be the finest Provencal rosé with the ethereal moniker of "Whispering Angel" from the D'Esclans estate.  Bone-dry with a firm, fleshy backbone, it certainly captivates the eye, not to mention the taste buds, with the most gorgeous pale pink hue.  This was a favorite of many tasters in the group.

The third selection was a 100% Grenache from Sonoma County, California. This 2012 Komomo was distinctive for its minerality, and more astringent, even earthy or musty aspects, as well as a notable watermelon aroma.  The more it breathed, the more it opened up and developed further with a long, lingering finish.  It scored top marks for at least one wine aficionado in our group.

We next moved onto two Pinot Noir rosés, the first from the Willamette Valley in Oregon (Adelsheim) and the second from the renowned Sancerre appellation in France - Thomas-Labaille "L'Authentique".  While both are of excellent quality and would be great choices for all you Pinot Noir lovers, the French wine edged out the Oregonian in our group's estimation with its complex palate of herbs, minerality and racy acidity.  The Adelsheim, by comparison, exhibits a lovely bouquet of white flowers and orange blossom along with typical strawberry notes.

The evening ended with something completely different : an Israeli wine from Galilee vinified from Barbera and Merlot grapes.  Distinctively darker and cherry-red in color, it was notable for its of aromas of cherries, pomegranate and white flowers. Slightly tannic and light to medium bodied and invitingly aromatic, it nonetheless finished somewhat short and abruptly.

Overall, the favorites were the "Whispering Angel" and the Sancerre, which are definitely worth the few extra bucks - typically about $20 a bottle.

1. Jean-Luc Colombo Cape Bleue Rosé 2013

Varietals: 67% Syrah, 33% Mourvèdre

Classification: Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP)

Production/Tasting Notes: Dry, but with deceptively sweet notes; fresh, aromatic, fruity bouquet with spicy notes;  complex flavors of fresh raspberries, cherries; hint of black olive; elegant finish with touch of spice.

Food pairings:  fish (fresh coho salmon, for example), poultry, vegetarian fare; also great as an apéritif

12.5 % Alcohol

2. Whispering Angel Caves D'Esclans 2012

                   

Varietal: Grenache, Rolle (Vermentino), Cinsault, Syrah, Tibouren

Classification: Appellation Côtes de Provence Contrôlée

Production/Tasting Notes: Vinified in stainless steel tanks; “batônnage” twice weekly; singularly gorgeous pale pink in color; appealingly fresh fragrance of light summer fruits (rapsberry, strawberry, cranberry); cherry nuances; firm, fleshy structure on the palate; firm texture and fine dry finish;

(World's Greatest Provençal Rosé? - you decide!)

Food pairings:  your favorite summertime Provençal fare

13 % Alcohol

3. Komomo Grenache Rose 2012 (Pauline's Vineyard)

                   

Varietals: 100% Grenache

Classification/Region: Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California

Production/Tasting Notes: 100% stainless steel fermentation; watermelon, strawberry, red cherry aromas; hints of minerality; long, lingering finish

Food pairings: Mediterranean fare

13.1 % Alcohol

          

4. Adelsheim Rosé 2013

                   

Varietal:  100% Pinot Noir

Region: Willamette Valley, Oregon

Production/Tasting Notes: Saignée method (portion of juice bled off from Pinot Noir fermenter 6-12 hours after filled with grapes); slow, cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks; 12% fermented in older, neutral French oak barrels; bottled 2/24/14; fresh strawberry, raspberry aromas, hint of vanilla bean, orange blossom, white flowers; rich well-textured palate

Food pairings: Mediterranean style dishes, bouillabaisse; grilled shrimp; goat cheese, ham and poultry entrees

13.5% Alcohol

5. Thomas-Labaille “l'Authentique” Rosé 2013

                

Classification: Appellation Sancerre Contrôlée

Varietal: (old vine) Pinot Noir

Tasting Notes:  Mineral-driven nose and palate typical of Loire wines;  ripe strawberry backed by racy acidity; also notes of sweet herbs on the palate

Food pairings: Fresh goat cheese; salmon baked with herbs; fish tacos with avocado and cilantro

Alcohol: 12.5%

6. Recanati Rosé 2013

                   

Varietals: 70% Barbera, 30% Merlot

Region: Galilee, Israel

Production/Tasting Notes:  Unirrigated Manara vineyard; cherry red color; light-medium body; aromas of crushed strawberries, pomegranate, white  flowers, raspberry, cherry; balanced acidity; light tannins; mouth-filling; crisp, refreshing

Food pairings: Grilled fish, seafood; spicier fare

       12.5% Alcohol

Tasting Preview: Everything is Coming up Rosés

My next class will feature rosé wines.  The June 3rd class is already sold out, but there are a few spaces left for the May 20th class (next Tuesday).  Sign up at the following link:

https://learningtree.ccwis.com/CourseStatus.awp?&course=14SCK07A


There was time in the not too distant past when rosé wine brought to mind cheap, sweet, low quality, mass-produced pink plonk from Portugal whose empty bottles served as candle-holders in university dorm rooms- I'm looking at you Mateus and Lancers! It's a whole new world these days where there has been a virtual revolution in the variety, availability and provenance of this previously maligned style of wine.

So if you're one of those who hasn't sipped a rosé since your college days, this course is for you. We will be sampling a wide range of rosés from several different countries, vinified from any number of different grape varietals and featuring styles from light and fragrant to complex and full-bodied. These will include wines from France, California, Oregon and Israel.  The wines are vinified from  Pinot Noir, Grenache, Barbera, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cabernet Franc and other varietals. The latest vintages are now arriving in wine shops across the tri-state region so it's a very good time to get out there and start sampling.  Many of the wines I will feature are available at PA State Stores, and the one at 12th & Chestnut Sts. in Philadelphia has an especially strong selection. Just ask Max for some recommendations.

There is nothing like a cool, refreshing glass of fine rosé to usher in the summer season. Please join us as we explore the new and exciting world of rosé wine!

"How to Love Wine"

In my blogger profile, I mention that among the many wine resources and references I regularly consult is the New York Times wine column, which is written by Eric Asimov.  I especially like reading his columns because they very much reflect my own philosophy of wine discovery and enjoyment, in addition to which I am almost always assured of learning something new about wine or of being pointed in a new direction in my search for intriguing wines.  For this reason, I was particularly drawn to actually buying (I rarely buy books these days for fear of tipping my overloaded book shelves) and delving into his new book "How to Love Wine", published in October 2012 by William Morrow (an imprint of Harper Collins).  Described as part memoir and part manifesto, the book alternates between tales of his (self-)education and experience in wine from the teen years up until his appointment as "Chief Wine Critic" of the Times about 10 years ago, and his take on wine culture (mostly in the United States) and such imposing and over-hyped criteria of wine appreciation as the tasting note, and the 100 point scale.






From a wine lover's perspective, Asimov can be viewed as living a charmed life: imagine being paid to drink fabulous wines from all over the world, traveling to picturesque chateaux, charming wineries and bucolic vineyards in beautiful, romantic settings to do research and then give your own personal assessment of the wines!  (Okay, I do get a little remuneration for the wine courses I conduct, but I still have my day job to pay the bills.)  Since we are both about the same age and pursued our interest and passion for wine in roughly the same time periods, what I found particularly interesting was the "memoir" chapters of the book wherein he describes his first tastings of wine as a teenager, his first big splurge on a bottle of wine (a 1995 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion for his parents' 30th anniversary) and his various and sundry adventures and misadventures in wine drinking through college, graduate school  and beyond, before he took serious measures in educating himself about wine.  I could certainly relate to these accounts of youthful experimentation and (at times) embarrassing situations.  His eventual appointment as "Chief Wine Critic" (a title he assumes with deference and humility) is somewhat fortuitous, yet mostly likely due to many years of dogged  journalistic inquiry and editorial experience.

On the "manifesto" side, Asimov takes issue with the "tyranny" of the tasting note and the limitations of the 100-point scoring system.  His main criticism of the tasting note seems to be that it's become more of a critic's game to list how many different aromas and tasting sensations one can eke out of a single wine sampling, as opposed to whether the wine is actually any good and will suit a consumer's expectations and preferences.  As for the 100-point scale, he points out that these blind-tasting scorings ignore the single most important consideration when enjoying  wine: context.  (In a recent column related to so-called objective wine scoring, Asimov makes the case that he is not at all averse to making a point of his personal preferences in assessing wines. http://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/23/dining/a-wine-critics-realm-isnt-a-democracy.html )

Overall, I found the book to be a very enjoyable and enlightening read, inasmuch as I highly value the author's approach to the experience of wine tasting and his criticism of the trappings of wine culture, not to mention that I find his personal preferences in wine to be very much in synch with my own so that I trust his judgement.  His writing style is engaging and personable and generally avoids pedantic and overwrought wine terminology.  However, I did find an overabundance of references to high-end Bordeaux wines as well as other ethereal wines from France and Italy which may either leave the reader in a fog as to what he's talking about or give the impression of name-dropping to bolster his wine "cred".  A further caution is that the memoir parts of the book - as much as I enjoyed reading about his exploits and adventures and comparing them to my own - may become tiresome and tedious to the younger reader (i.e, under 45 years of age).  In the end, the book will be most appreciated by the serious wine reader (or geek), but is not likely to be of great interest to the casual wine drinker.  That said, I will leave you with some of the more salient points Asimov makes that hold value for all wine imbibers of today:

Right now is the greatest time in history to be a wine drinker [due to] unparalleled access to more different sorts of excellent wines, from more places all over the world, than ever before.

Nobody, not even the world's greatest wine scholar, will ever master all they need to know to choose the right bottle every time.

The single most important thing one can do if one wants good bottles with dinner is to make friends with a smart salesperson at a good wine shop.

Wine production today is essentially divided between those who make huge amounts of acceptable wine for cheap prices and those who make small amounts of more ambitious, more distinctive and more expensive wines.

What's in [a] glass at a particular moment almost never represents the full potential of a good wine.  It offers a ... suggestion, ... but is almost never completely knowable.

Bogle "Essential Red"

One of the purposes of my blog is to alert followers to wines I come across that I find to be of especially good value, in terms of price and quality, as well as exceptional wines that are worth the occasional splurge.  Most of these then will be "everyday" wines that will not break the bank, that are readily available in PA, NJ or DE, and that have been "pre-sampled" and evaluated by me so that you can be reasonably assured you will find them distinctive in some way and thoroughly enjoyable depending on your own personal taste profile.

Continuing along this vein, if you're are a fan of the big, juicy, jammy red blends of California, you'd be hard pressed to do better than the BOGLE ESSENTIAL RED, which marries together Old Vine Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah to create a luscious, mouth-filling blend with rich, ripe fruit (boysenberry and cherry) that is eminently quaffable, yet offers a degree of complexity of layers on the palate and a lingering finish of licorice and tobacco that elevates it above the typical mass-produced California blend at this price point ( $11-13).  Aged 18 months in American and French oak, it boasts soft and silky tannins with pleasant vanilla notes without the harsh "oakiness".  If you're looking for a wine that's approachable and a crowd-pleaser while keeping an eye on your budget, this is a great choice or, as the Wine Spectator (88 pts) opines, "a no-brainer for summer entertaining".  (I sampled the 2010 vintage, though the 2011 vintage should be in stores now. PA code is 6685.)

                                                                    
                                                           

Loire Valley Wines: The Tasting

Below you will find the wines we sampled at my most recent wine tasting course with the Mt Airy Learning Tree (MALT) http://mtairylearningtree.org/ .  Most of these wines can be found at  Wine Works in Marlton, NJ http://www.wineaccess.com/store/wineworks/index.html . The "Cent Visages" Malbec is available at PA wine and liquor stores (code: 46420)

Wines of the Loire Valley

Mt. Airy Learning Tree

March 18/April 1, 2014

1. (March 18 class) Domaine de la Taille aux Loups « Triple Zero » Montlouis Petillant

Jacky Blot

Varietal: Chenin Blanc

Classification: Montlouis-sur-Loire AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlee)

Production/Tasting Notes: No sugar used for chapatalization, triage or dosage; methode traditionelle; bottled after 3 months for secondary fermentation; natural yeasts; grapes harvested from 50+ year old vines (vieilles vignes); no malolactic fermentation, thus preserving acidity and freshness; elegant, brisk, notes of citrus, pear fruit, mineral.

Food pairings: shellfish, sole, flounder; or as an apertif

12.5 % Alcohol

1. (April 1 Class) Francois Pinon Vouvray Brut NV (Non Vintage)

Varietal : Chenin Blanc

Classification: Vouvray AOC

Production/Tasting Notes: Musky florality, showing dried pear, fig and pungent herbal qualities and subtle chalky, alkaline minerality. Broad, palate-coating orchard and pit fruit flavors are quite lush and accessible, offering building richness and gentle back-end grip and lingering finish with spiciness. 12.5 % alcohol

2. Chateau de la Chesnaie (Muscadet) 2012

                      

Varietal: Muscadet (Melon de Bourgogne)

Classification: Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (AOC)

Tasting Notes: Bright, round; crisp, dry, fresh lemon peel; floral & sea spray scents; tangy citrus & oyster mineral notes across palate

Food pairings: quintessential shellfish wine; also, fish, risotto, cheese

12 % Alcohol

2. (April 1 class) Domaine de la Pepière Muscadet (Organic) 2012

Varietal: Muscadet (Melon de Bourgogne)

Classification: Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur Lie (AOC)

Production/Tasting Notes:  Natural yeast fermentation; extended lees contact; deep, vibrant bouquet eliciting aromas of lime, green apple; crisp, dry, lemon-tinged; floral & briny scents; tangy citrus and oyster mineral notes across palate; full-bodied for a Muscadet. 12 % Alcohol

3. Hubert Brochard Sancerre 2011

                           

Varietals: Sauvignon Blanc

Classification/Region: Chavignol, Sancerre (AOC)

Production/Tasting Notes: Aged on lees; no filtration; intense minerality;dry, crisp; floral scents; white fruit aromas and flavors

Food Pairings: seafood; fish in sauces; Crottin de Chavignol goat chees

13 % Alcohol

4. Domaine de la Pepie (Marc Ollivier) Cabernet Franc 2012

Varietal: Cabernet Franc 100%

Classification: Vin de Pays du Val de Loire

Production/Tasting Notes: Dry, earthy, rustic; medium-bodied;notes of raspberry, plum, white pepper, rosemary, cola;

Food pairing: burgers, salmon; artisan pizza, savory crepes

12 % Alcohol

5. Bernard Baudry “La Croix Boissee” 2011

Varietal: Cabernet Franc 100%

Classification: Chinon AOC

Production/Tasting Notes: Unfiltered; no pesticides or chemical fertilizers used in soil;
"light-bodied and fresh, yet dense, with persistent flavors of red fruit, herbs and mineral" (3 stars in NY Times review);  perfumed aromas of black fruit, crushed hazelnut, coffee, spice box, green bean, and tobacco; fine, solid structure and minerality with a long mouth coating finish; will benefit from aging

Food pairings: Roast chicken, roasted lamb; braised veal;

13% Alcohol

6. Cot (Malbec) “Cent Visages,” Jean Francois Merieau 2010
   

   
   

    

Varietals: Malbec 100%

Classification: Touraine AOC

Production/Tasting Notes: Medium bodied; dry with lively acidity; aromas of dark berries (cranberry, cherry) combined with minerality and smokiness;

Food pairings: Roasted or grilled meats; cheeses; ratatouile

12.5 % Alcohol

Factoids about Loire Valley and its Wines

• Loire Valley wine producers are at the forefront of the natural or biodynamic movement which uses minimalist techniques to make wine.
• The largest wine region in France, the Loire Valley extends from the edge of the Atlantic Ocean in the Nantais to the central regions of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume through the heart of the famed Chateaux of the Loire
• The Loire River runs 625 miles
• If not for the River, vineyards could not likely grow well so far north
• There are over 60 different appellations in the Loire Valley ranging in style from bone-dry to intensely sweet, including some excellent petillants (sparkling wines)
• Cremant de Loire and Vouvray petillant are the sparkling wines of the region made from Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc
• The Sancerrois is home to the best Sauvignon Blanc from villages such as Sancerre, Pouilly, Quincy, Menetou-salon and Reuilly

Common Grape Varieties of the Loire Valley

Whites

CHENIN BLANC – Vinified for wines ranging from dry to sweet, from still to bubbly. Predominant grape of Vouvray whites

SAUVIGNON BLANC – Principal grape of the famed Sancerre and Pouilly Fume AOCs

MUSCADET (alias MELON de BOURGOGNE); THE grape of the Nantais region, renowned for its pairing with shellfish, especially oysters, and seafood.

Reds

CABERNET FRANC – The workhorse red grape of the Loire; if it's a red wine from the Loire, it's most likely Cabernet Franc.

Other reds grown in the Loire: Cot (Malbec), Gamay, Pinot Noir, Pineau d'Aunis, Grolleau

Wine Quotes: One not only drinks the wine, one smells it, observes it, tastes it, sips it and one talks about it.

~King Edward VII

Loire Valley Wines - A Tasting Preview

My next wine tasting class with the Mount Airy Learning Tree (MALT) will feature wines of the Loire River Valley.  The first of two classes on this region is sold out, but there are a few spaces open for the second class on April 1. See the link below to sign up:

https://learningtree.ccwis.com/CourseStatus.awp?&course=14WCK08B

Famed for its dazzling, picturesque and historic country chateaux, the Loire Valley often plays second fiddle to the more prestigious Bordeaux and Burgundy wine regions. Yet this area of central France, bisected by the country's longest river, boasts the largest wine growing region and offers a wide selection of white, red, rose and sparkling wines at affordable price points that cater to all manner of palates. Extending over 600 miles from the heart of France to the Atlantic Ocean, the Loire River forms a climatic boundary between northern and southern France providing conducive conditions for viticulture that otherwise would not survive at such a northern latitude. Join us as we embark on a tasting tour of some of the notable wine districts and chateaux of this delightful and intriguing region of France.

Without giving away too many details, here's just a short preview of the wines we will be sampling:

First, we'll start off with a sparkling wine (petillant, in French), also known as a Cremant de Loire.  Bubblies that originate from outside the Champagne region cannot legally be referred to as champagnes. Rather, they are usually called "Cremant" as in "Cremant de Loire" or "Cremant de Bourgogne".  These are often very good value alternatives to  high-priced champagnes.  We'll be toasting the end of winter with a top Cremant de Loire vinified with chenin blanc grapes.

Next will be a Muscadet from the western Loire region Sevre et Maine near where the Loire River runs into the Atlantic Ocean.  These wines are famed for their pairing with shellfish.

The third white wine we'll sample hails from the Sancerre region which, along with Pouilly Fume, represent some of the finest Sauvignon Blancs to be had from France.

As for red wines, we will begin with a couple of Cabernet Francs which is the predominant red grape of the Loire. Indeed, if the grape is not mentioned on the label of a red wine from the Loire, it most assuredly will be Cabernet Franc.  The first one comes from a producer known for his natural wine-making techniques, and though he doesn't claim to be part of the natural wine movement, his wines, in fact, reflect the special characteristics of these wines.  The second Cab Franc will be the top ranked red from a recent New York Times review of Loire Valley wines.

The 6th and final wine is a Cot, which is the local term for Malbec.  If you're familiar with the robust, hearty Malbecs from Argentina, get ready for something a little different.  This is also a naturally produced red wine, from the Touraine appellation.

Stay tuned for a full description of these wines and further Loire recommendations following the classes in a few weeks.

Rosso di Montalcino Revisited

Soon after I posted a feature on this second label of the Montalcino wine region which produces the prestigious and renowned Brunello (see my January 8 post below), I came across this reassessment and re-tasting of Rosso di Montalcino by NY Times wine writer Eric Asimov and his panel of tasters.

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/02/19/dining/making-his-case-for-the-second-montalcino.html?ref=ericasimov

Like Mr. Asimov, whom I follow closely and usually find myself in synch with (I just bought a copy of his latest book entitled How to Love Wine; more on that later), I'm a big fan of Rosso as a moderately priced alternative to the often over-priced Brunello.  Although I haven't (yet) tasted any of the wines they review in the article, I look forward to seeking them out and will be sure to report on them.  The Rosso wines they taste range in price from $23 to $82, which is seriously moving into Brunello territory with respect to price points, though as a Kermit Lynch import, it is likely worth the big bucks.  However, as with the Rosso I reported on in the previous post, there are very decent Rossos to be enjoyed for less than $20 and represent a very good value.

Both Chianti and Rosso are made from the Sangiovese grape (as is the Brunello), but what distinguishes them is the expression of the grape which, no doubt, arises from the particular terroir in which it is cultivated and matured.  As Asimov points out,  the Montalcino  "tends to be richer and more concentrated than that grown in the Chianti zones. As a result, good Chiantis, in which sangiovese is the dominant rather than the sole grape, will generally be more graceful and finer textured than the Montalcino. The Montalcinos will be denser and more powerful; the best combine muscularity with elegance."

You may have a preference for one or the other, but again like Asimov, I enjoy both styles - the earthy, sweet & bitter aromas of Chianti, as well as the denser, more robust fruit expression of the Rosso di Montalcino.  Do let me know what you think!