Earlier this month, I took a week-long trip to Colonial Williamsburg and Jamestown, and as many of you know, wherever I travel, I'm always on the look out for local wineries that are worth visiting. This is especially true for the state of Virginia which is fast becoming one of the nation's top destinations for wine connoisseurs. The majority of the state's wineries are located in the northern and northwestern region, but there is a smattering of vineyards and wine-makers in the Historic Triangle region of eastern Virginia.
The first of the three wineries I visited in the Williamsburg area is right next to the historic Shirley Plantation, about 30 minutes from the town center off the John Tyler Memorial Highway (Route 5). (The plantation itself is worth a visit as National Historic Landmark and one of the nation's oldest active family farms, going back eleven generations. https://historicshirley.com/ ) The neighboring winery shares the landmark's name as the Upper Shirley Vineyard https://www.uppershirley.com/ )
My visit was well-timed as the winery had just opened for business that day after I'd completed my tour of the Shirley Plantation, and since the heat had already begun to move into the oppressive stage, a nice, cool, air-conditioned tasting room and dining area was a welcome respite. (When the weather is more amenable to outside imbibing, the winery boasts a very spacious veranda and garden area where drinks and food can be enjoyed.)
Although it wasn't even noon yet, patrons had already arrived for an early lunch and wine-tasting, which was a good sign. Furthermore, the inside tasting room/dinning area and banquet hall were tastefully decorated, clean and bright.
Wines are available by glass, bottle and in a multi-wine tasting kit which comprises up to ten samples in pre-packaged plastic cups, along with a wine glass that you can take with you as a souvenir. Also included is a detailed description of each of the wine samples. My kit featured Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay, White Blend, Rosé, Petit Verdot, Tannat, Divertido (Mourvèdre), and Zachariah (Bordeaux style blend). I found all the wines well-made and well-balanced, exhibiting characteristics typically associated with the particular varietal or blend, but the standouts for me were the Petit Verdot, Tannat and Zachariah which were exceptional in their expression of the grapes' distinctive flavor profile. I ended up purchasing a bottle of the Petit Verdot ($32) which is becoming a kind of signature varietal of Virginia as a full-bodied, age-worthy stand-alone red.
As an added plus, judging by the delicious and abundant roast chicken salad I thoroughly enjoyed, the kitchen does a bang-up job with the menu, so don't hesitate to pair your wine(s) with a scrumptious dish.
About a half hour's drive north of Upper Shirley Vineyards, just off Route 64 is the New Kent Winery at Dombroski Vineyards, https://newkentwinery.com/ which also houses the Talleysville Brewing Company so that you can sample both estate wines and craft beer at the same venue. (After tasting several wines, I opted for a draft brew - the Southern Rail Red Ale - to accompany a small plate which was appropriately refreshing on a super hot and muggy Tidewater afternoon.)
You can ask to sample wines at the bar in the tasting room, but there was no seating inside (at least when I was there) so to order a full glass or bottle to share, you can take it outside to the spacious veranda and garden area.
Featured wines include Chardonnay, Vidal Blanc, Merlot, Norton, Cabernet Franc and Meritage blend. As you can see, there is a strong French influence on the varietals grown in this area. I sampled most of the reds which were all good quality and well-produced, boasting fine flavor profiles associated with the particular varietal(s). You may not be familiar with Norton, which is a hybrid thought to be the oldest commercially produced American varietal. Discovered in Missouri in the early 19th century, it is now predominantly grown in Virginia. Medium to full-bodied, and exhibiting red fruit characteristics and taut tannins, this is a good red option which does not overwhelm, yet holds up well on its own and is definitely food friendly.
I was especially taken by the Cabernet Franc which is rich in plum, black cherry, and forest floor with hints of oak and caramel from 24 months of aging. (This was my choice to bring home.) Price points are quite reasonable, given the quality and regional production, ranging from the low $20s to the low $30s. There was also a very good deal on a 4-pack of the Meritage in 250ml cans, perfect for a solo diner. At just $20, I couldn't pass it up!
See below for the full list of wines and beers at the time I visited:
My third and final visit on this trip was to the Williamsburg Winery, which has a Tasting Room on the main drag down the street from the colonial district. However, I chose to visit the actual headquarters located just a few miles outside the town among the vineyards.
I must say that I was a little hesitant, since Williamsburg is very much a tourist destination and I thought the winery might be just capitalizing on the large influx of visitors to the area and producing wines of little distinction to an unsophisticated, less discerning clientele. I am happy to report that I was pleasantly mistaken. All the wines I tasted were of good quality and well made; and once I made known to the server that I knew a few things about wine, he opened up to me about his own oenological interests and experiences, and even had me taste one of their top issues that was off the tasting menu. A tip of the hat to Carmen, if you ever read this.
There are several tasting flights that are available, as well as wines by the glass or bottle. I chose the Red Wine Flight as I really wanted to sample the Cab Franc and Petit Verdot to compare with the other Virginia wineries I had visited. The flight then consisted of the 2020 Virginia Cabernet Franc, the 2020 Barrel-Aged Virginia Claret, the 2019 Virginia Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2020 Virginia Petit Verdot. All wines were oak aged for at least 12 months. To my palate, the Cabernet Franc was closer to the Loire style than that of the Upper Shirley - leaner, more herbal with hints of green pepper and rhubarb, less fruit-forward.
The real standout was the Barrel Aged Claret, a blend of Merlot, Cab Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Tannat. (I purchased a bottle to take home with me.) All these varietals combine harmoniously to create a wine of great approachability yet fully layered with notes of red and black cherry, vanilla, cocoa, and supported by and integrated with tannins. This is especially remarkable given the rough year weather-wise according to the winemaker.
As I noted above, the Petit Verdot is becoming recognized as a mainstay of Virginia wineries, and in keeping with this recognition, the Williamsburg Winery's is a worthy entry, boasting a complex flavor profile, including ripe, dark fruit; cola; leather; herbs and graphite.
The off-menu sample Carmen graciously offered me was their top-of-the line 2017 Adagio blend consisting of Tannat, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. This exceptional wine brings forth a wide array of rich, complex fruit notes, including dates, figs, red raspberry, and dark cherry as well as blueberry and cassis. Balancing out the flavor profile are hints of black pepper and black olive, well integrated with supporting tannins and oak. At $68 a bottle, it's well worth a special splurge. (Most of the other wines are in the $20-30 range.)
Small plates are available to accompany the wines and there is also a separate restaurant/tavern just opposite the winery at the same location.
To sum up, if you happen to take a trip to Colonial Williamsburg, be sure to take time to visit a winery to relax, sip and savor as a break from all that history.
