Wine Tasting By The Shore - Selections from My Cellar

 Earlier this summer, a small group of friends and wine aficionados gathered together for their annual tasting and dinner by the shore.  This year I decided to feature wines from my own private cellar, focusing on summery sips, including three whites, one rosé and one red from both the Old World and New World. Some were old favorites, others more recent discoveries.

Our hosts once again outdid themselves in preparing a delicious array of tasty delights, meticulously prepared and presented, that complemented the wines beautifully.

The menu included mouth-watering treats such as pigs-in-a-blanket, burrata, tomato pie, foccacia with grapes, roast salmon accompanied by pasta, broccoli and fruit salads.

As for the wines, pretty much every one was a hit, with distinct favorites for each person.  I was pleased that the Torrontés received rave reviews since it's not widely known among US consumers and has a very distinctive aromatic profile.  A special mention is also in order for the Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc which I purchased in the pre-pandemic days during a multi-stop tour of wineries.  I remember enjoying it very much at the time, and it aged nicely in the intervening years.

See detailed notes below on the wines, varietals and wine-makers.

Cheers!

Quinta da Alorna Arinto 2018

Origin: DOC Do Tejo (Portugal)

Varietals: 100% Arinto

Production/Tasting Notes: Fermentation at 17 degrees Celsius in stainless steel vats; intense aromas with notes of citrus fruit, banana, and green tea; crisp, vivacious acidity; persistent finish with aromatic sensations   

Food  Pairing: seafood; red fish; Asian food; cheeses with mild aromatic intensity

Alcohol: 13%

 

Karen Birmingham Rosé of Pinot Noir 2020

Origin: Lodi, California

Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir

Production/Tasting Notes: Fruit-driven, delicate, light, crisp; crushed rosehips, raspberry

Food pairing: light, summery hors d'oeuvres

Alcohol:  12.5%

 

Rancho Campo Torrontés 2019

Origin : Mendoza, Argentina

Varietal: 100% Torrontés

Production/Tasting Notes:  Ebulliently, intensely aromatic and perfumy; nectarine; cardamon; white flower; citrus notes of orange, lime and grapefruit; bright, zippy acidity; light velvety palate.

Food Pairings: scallops, white fish; goat cheese on fruit toast; Thai green curry; salmon; piri piri chicken

 

Alcohol: 13%

 

Roberto Sarotto Virgilio Gavi 2020

Origin: Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) Gavi (Italy)

Varietals: 100% Cortese

Tasting Notes: Expressive aromas of acacia, floral scents, green apples, Bosc pear, ripe lemon; apricot; dry, crisp acidity; refreshing palate with elegant, fruity character; long finish.

Food  Pairing: light appetizers; fish, white meats

Alcohol: 12%

 

Domaine Le Seurre Cabernet Franc Barrel Collection Cuvée Classique 2014

Origin: Keuka Lake, Finger Lakes, New York

Varietals: 100% Cabernet Franc      

Production/Tasting Notes:  22 months in French oak Barrels; aromas of red berries, smoke, herbs, minerals; light to medium body;

Food Pairing: lamb shank; grilled, roasted meats; barbecue ribs

Alcohol:  13.5 %

 

Notes on Grape Varietals and Winemakers

Arinto

Primarily grown around the Lisbon area, particularly the Bucelas region. Found in either single varietals or in blends with over native Portuguese grapes. Naturally high in acidity and similar in profile to Sauvignon Blanc; expresses an array of citrus fruit notes, especially lemon and grapefruit (but without any of the "cat pee" aromas sometimes associated with the New Zealand varietal) as well as stone fruit such as peach flavors when aged

Torrontés

Recognized as the signature white grape of Argentina, it's actually a class of grapes representing several varietals grown in high altitude regions (up to 10,000 feet), particularly the Salta. Often intensely aromatic and perfumy with notes of spice and white flowers. Widely blended with Chardonnay.

Cortese

Primary white varietal associated with the Gavi region of southeast Piedmont.  Noted for its bracing acidity, with crisp, lime, herbal and grassy aromatic notes and flavors of apple, peach and honeydew.  Historically, dates back to the 17th and long considered Piedmont's white varietal.  Also found in the Veneto region where it's typically blended with Trebbiano and Garganega.

Domaine Le Seurre

Located on Keuka Lake in the Finger Lakes region of New York State.  Owners Sebastian and Celine LeSeurre, after initial studies in France, traveled the world working at and exploring numerous wineries and vineyards before settling in Keuka Lake where they would establish their own winery.  Their wines include typical varietals of the region such as Riesling, Chardonnay, Gerwurztraminer, Cabernet Franc and Lemberger.        

Karen Birmingham

Worked for many years at LangeTwins Winery in Acampo, California.  She now produces wines for Naked Wines, featuring varietals from the Lodi region, including Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Wine Tasting: Spotlight on Chile

 For many years now, Chile has distinguished itself in the wine industry as a source for good value wines produced from popular varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Sauvignon Blanc, and Merlot.  The influence of vintners who migrated from France to South America is evidenced by the strong presence of these grape varietals of French origin.

In my most recent wine tasting classes, we sampled two whites and four reds, including three Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blends, plus a Cabernet Franc, from various wine-growing regions north and south of the capital Santiago.  Overall, the classes were very impressed by the high quality and very affordable price points.  The sweet spot with regards to pricing, again, is in the $15 to $25 price point range, and occasionally even a little less in this case.

All wines were purchased at Wine Works  https://www.wineworksonline.com/ in Marlton, New Jersey, although some may be available in Pennsylvania wine shops.

Matetic EQ Coastal Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($14)

                               

 Origin: Valle Hermoso, Valle de Casablanca Denominacion de Origen (D.O.),

Varietals: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes: Vineyard 6 miles from Pacific Ocean; grey granite soil with iron-rich mica; organic grapes; cold soak for 12 hours before pressing under layer of inert gas; low temperature fermentation in stainless steel tanks; aged on fine lees for 4 months; 30% fermented in concrete vessels and neutral oak barrels to enhance mineral notes, texture and mouthfeel; complex nose dominated by citrus and tropical aromas, such as mango, papaya, grapefruit peel with light herbal notes; fresh, crisp,  concentrated,  vivid on the palate; lingering finish with underlying salty minerality. (92 points, Vinous) 

Food  Pairing: ceviche, tuna carpaccio; sushi; oysters; scallops; salads; goat or bleu cheeses

Alcohol: 13.5%

 

Mayu Pedro Ximenez 2020 ($13)

                      

Feline approved!

Origin: Valle de Elqui D.O.

Varietal: 100% Pedro Ximenez

Production/Tasting Notes: Hand-harvested at one of the highest altitude vineyards in Chile (6,320 feet); fermentation in stainless steel; clarification by natural sedimentation; aged on fine lees for 4 months; dry, crisp; floral (white flower) and fruit aromas; citrusy; bright acidity; long finish. (90 points, Wine Advocate)

Food pairing: ceviche; fresh seafood; shellfish

Alcohol:  12.5%

Perez Cruz Cabernet Franc Limited Edition 2019 ($16)

                                       

Origin : Valle de Maipo D.O.

Varietal: 96% Cabernet Franc; 4% Petit Verdot

Production/Tasting Notes:  Total maceration period of 27 days; 14 months aging in French oak barrels (50% new); red fruit, herbal and spicy aromas with floral notes; fine tannins, lingering finish.

Food Pairings: lentil soup with ham hock; rack of lamb; rabbit rillettes

 

Alcohol: 14%

 

Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($20)

                                     

 

Origin:  Valle de Maipo D.O.

Varietals: 86.5% Cabernet Sauvignon; 10% Cabernet Franc; 2.1% Syrah; 1.4% Petit Verdot

Production/Tasting Notes: Sourced from old-vine Pirque and Puente Alto vineyards at foot of Andes; stony, alluvial soil; semi-arid Mediterranean climate; daily thermal oscillation of 18 degrees Celsius prolongs ripening of grapes, concentrating and intensifying aromas of unctuous cherry, sarsaparilla; cedar; blackberry, tar; smoke; smooth, silky texture masks firm, underlying tannic structure; long, lingering finish. (92 points, James Suckling)

Food Pairing: grilled, roasted or stewed meats or game in rich sauces with touch of acidity and herbs such as rosemary, thyme, bay leaf

Alcohol:14.6%

 

Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($20)

                             

Origin: Valle de Colchagua D.O.

Varietals: 90% Cabernet Sauvignon; 10% Merlot

Production/Tasting Notes: Granite, clay soils; hand-harvested, manual selection of bunches before destemming; maceration in fermentation tanks for 5 days, followed by fermentation of 7-10 days, then racked into stainless steel and concrete tanks; malolactic fermentation; 55%  aged in French oak barrels for 12 months (30% first use; 70% 2nd and 3rd use); complex array of aromas - black fruit, strawberry, blueberry, black plum; crème de cassis; notes of leather, tobacco, toast, toffee; smooth tannins on the palate; long finish. (94 points, James Suckling)  

Food  Pairings: red meats; Mongolian beef; pasta with Bolognese sauce; lamb chops     

Alcohol: 14.5%

 

Primus The Blend 2018 ($15)

                         

Origin: Apalta, Valle de Colchagua

Varietals: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon; 20% Carmenère; 10% Petit Verdot; 10% Syrah; 5% Cabernet Franc          

Production/Tasting Notes:  Well-drained clay-loam and colluvial soils; organic, sustainably-farmed vineyards; Mediterranean climate; 66% aged in French oak barrels (18% new) for 12 months; 33% in 5000 liter foudres; the blend features particular characteristics from each of the varietals: structure from the Cab Sauv; red fruit delivered by the Merlot; weight and softness from Carmenère as well as spice; smooth, finish complex finish by virtue of Petit Verdot; persistence and elegance from Cab Franc. Medium body. (92 points, Tim Atkin, MW)

Food Pairing: lamb shank; grilled, roasted meats; barbecue ribs

Alcohol:  13.5 %

 

                    Notes on Chilean Wine-Growing Regions

Maipo

Home of viticulture in Chile.  Vines first planted in the 1540s, but expanded greatly in the 1800s.  Located at the northern end of the Central Valley, just south of capital Santiago. High elevation and river gravels offer ideal combination for Bordeaux-style reds. Has become a world-class region for producing Cabernet Sauvignon. Alto Maipo, which includes sub-regions Puento Alto and Pirque, is the most prestigious of the viticultural areas.  Vineyards in this region run along the eastern edge of the Andes with altitudes between 1300 and 2500 feet. Warm sun and colder nights allow slow ripening and balanced acidity.  Colluvial soils are rocky and free-draining, stressing the vines which produce a higher concentration of sugars and acids. Other sub-regions are the Central Maipo and Maipo Bajo, the latter focusing more on wine-making and less on viticulture.

Colchagua

Central Chile region with great promise. Noted especially for Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Syrah.  Characterized by steep slopes on the edge of coastal mountains, free-draining granitic soils, stressing grapes that produce small yields and high concentrated flavors. Great variation in diurnal temperatures also help in creating grapes with balanced ripeness and acidity. Climate is warm, but cooled by ocean breezes; dry, but refreshed by rivers and occasional rainfall.

Elqui

Located 250 miles north of Santiago on the edge of the Atacama Desert, currently the northernmost wine-growing region.  Traditionally focused exclusively on producing Pisco, Chile's trademark brandy; now producing bright, intensely aromatic wines, notably Sauvignon Blanc, Carmenère, Syrah and Pedro Ximenez .  Hot and dry, requiring irrigation.  High altitude - up to 6550 feet, along with bright, hot days followed by cool, fresh nights, allowing grapes to develop intense varietal character and refreshing levels of acidity.  Elqui means "narrow valley" in the local Quechua language. Rocky and thin soils with chalky components provide good drainage.

Casablanca

East-West Valley, about 20 miles long, located 60 miles northwest of Santiago.  Best known for crisp white wines, particularly, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, the Valley is now recognized as one of Chile's quality wine regions.  A relatively new region, plantings began in the 1980s. At 20 miles from the Pacific Ocean,  the Valley is strongly influenced by the cooling effects of the Humboldt Current, flowing up from the Antarctic.  The oceanic influence brings cool morning fog and greater cloud cover than elsewhere in northern Chile, enhancing the growing of white wines. A longer ripening period allows more time to develop greater flavor complexity while maintaining a balance of sugar and acidity.

A Bordeaux-Fueled Movable Feast

 As a follow-up to the Burgundy wine dinner I reported on last summer (see my post of August 25 https://phillywineguy.blogspot.com/2021/08/wine-dinner-la-bourguignonne.html), a small group of wine-loving friends gathered on a recent Sunday evening to delight in some of the best Bordeaux has to offer in sparkling, white and red wines accompanied by mouth-watering hors d'oeuvres, entrées and dessert.  (Even as the omicron wave has ebbed, we took the precaution of testing prior the dinner.)

To start off the evening, the first host popped open a bottle of Crémant de Bordeaux, which was perhaps the best value wine of the offerings at about $22, demonstrating that one does not have to break the bank to enjoy the world-renowned reputation of this region.  

                                   

                                   

The Croix de Roche Crémant, Rosé de Bordeaux NV is a blend of 40% Malbec, 40% Merlot, and 5% each of the other red varietals that are permitted by law in the vinification of  Bordeaux wines - Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Carmenère.  Pink salmon hued with aromas of red currant and berries, the palate is crisp and fresh, offering hints of white peach and apple cider and strawberry with a lingering finish of minerality.  Certified organic, this sparkler spends 6 months in Saint Emilion barrels, then is further aged for 36 months on its thin lees.  As I often point out, the crémants (French sparkling wines produced outside of Champagne) are budget-wise alternatives of dependable quality to their higher-priced cousins, and this one was no exception.

Up next was perhaps the most-celebrated white Bordeaux from Pessac Leognan in the Graves appellation of the Left Bank, Château Cabonnieux, a blend of 65% Sauvignon Blanc and 35% Semillon.

                                

Aged 10 months in wooden casks (25% new oak), this grand cru classé exudes aromas of intense citrus fruit with a distinctive note of quinine, and on the palate, the rounded mouth feel is full of viscous white, candied fruit supplemented by cask aging which allows for extra cellaring time in the bottle.   As an aficionado of Sauvignon Blanc, I must point out that this Bordeaux style differs notably from those of other regions such as the Loire Valley, New Zealand and California in that it is more full bodied, denser, more viscous, and, with the barrel-aging, is suited for extra cellaring.  Furthermore, it is more of "food wine", best appreciated in conjunction with seafood, liver pate, white meat, cheeses and fruit desserts.  At our table, the host regaled us lobster-stuffed endive, petit gougères and a cheese platter of Roquefort and aged Welsh cheddar.

After a delightful array of appetizers and amuse-bouche paired with the bubbly and Carbonnieux, we migrated down the road nearby to the house of our next host to savor the Bordeaux reds along with an elegant and beautifully prepared entrée of braised short-ribs, haricots verts and potato purée.  (Apparently, I was so taken by the presentation and my appetite that I forgot to document the visual for which I apologize!)

The first red that we sampled was a 2016 Chateau Giscours, which is a Grand Cru Classé (Troisième cru or 3rd growth) from the Margaux appellation on the Left Bank.

                                    

A blend of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, along with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, Giscours is emblematic of the classic Margaux style in harmonizing elegance, bouquet and class. Exuding lush black fruit married with new oak flavors, this complex wine continues to release layers of concentrated aromas and flavors in an exquisite balance of power and vitality.  The Château itself has a 600 year history going back to when it was a defensive tower overlooking the marshlands of the Médoc at the time.  Wine production began on the estate in the 16th century.  Personally speaking, although I'm drawn to all manner of the Bordeaux styles, Margaux has a special place in my palate archive and library of senses, epitomizing elegance and class.  At about $92 a bottle, this is a splurge worth indulging in to experience the beauty and power of this classic.

Next on the Bordeaux "carte à vins", was a 2017 No. 3 d' Angélus, the third label of the Château Angélus Grand Vin, which attained Premier Grand Cru Classé "A" status in 2012.  Typical of Right Bank reds, Merlot is the predominant grape at 85%, supplemented with Cabernet Franc.

                             

Aged in one to three-year-old barrels, this ruby-tinted cuvée offers up aromas of ripe red currant, red berry and plum with hints of graphite and subtle floral notes.  Although lighter in intensity and density than Cabernet Sauvignon-drive Left Bank reds, the Angélus is just as expansive and layered, balancing acidity and fine-grained tannins. (Students of my classes may recall the adage I often refer to as the mark of a well-balanced wine: FATA-Fruit, Acidity, Tannin, Alcohol which is beautifully exemplified in this wine.)  If you're a fan of Merlot, which is regaining its reputation as a world class wine after being maligned in the aftermath of the 2004 film Sideways, the Angelus a classic example of the power and prestige of this noble grape.

This family-run Château also dates back to the 16th century and is currently managed by Hubert Bouard de la Forest and his daughter Stéphane, a graduate of the Faculté d'Oenologie in Bordeaux, who represents the 8th generation. The estate's symbol and namesake refer to the angelus peal, or call to prayer, which tolls from the three Saint-Emilion churches overlooking the vineyards.

Our next wine was also from the Right Bank and Merlot-based - 2016 Chateau Vieux Chevrol from the Lalande de Pomerol appellation.                                      

   

Blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, this organically farmed wine is aged in 600 liter casks (10% new oak) after being fermented with natural yeast and uses no filtration.  In 1925, the Lalande de Pomerol appellation was separated off by decree from the Pomerol designation.  As such, although this marks a loss of cachet of the more prestigious parent designation, it does usually result in more affordable pricing with high quality wines - the Chevrol was a very reasonable $29 per bottle.  

Darkly perfumed with notes of cassis, violet, leather, plum and blackberry, subtle, medium-grain tannins combine with moderate acidity to pair well with beef, lamb or game.  If you're on the fence about investing in a Merlot, a Lalande-de-Pomerol such as the Chateau Vieux Chavrol represents a very approachable initiation into the delights the Right Bank flagship grape.

Back to the other side of the river, our last featured red was from the prestigous Pauillac appellation, home of several of the top Grand Vins de Bordeaux, such as Lafite and Mouton-Rothschild.  Indeed, although our budget certainly would not allow such stratospheric aspirations, the tiny, 1-hectare estate of Château Chantecler is surrounded by the aforementioned, world-renowned Châteaux.

                               

One of the last independent producers left in the Pauillac, Chantecler produces only a few hundred cases of the wine which is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc from 45+year old vines. Lush, silky, powerfully structured and exuding captivating perfumes of concentrated, dark fruits, Chantecler is primed for aging and developing for many more years, but was amply appreciated in its current state by our circle of friends and is representative of the ultimate expression of Pauillac's Premier Cru (first growth) terroir at a fraction of the price - upwards of $1,000 versus $95.  Because Bordeaux is such a large, high-quality wine-growing region, despite the eye-popping prices that the top wines can fetch on the open market, there are plenty of options for more down-to-earth pricing that often present equivalent or near-equivalent tasting experiences, certainly less than $100, and even at $40 or less. See the following excerpts for recommendations from the Wine Spectator special value wines from the Côtes de Bordeaux:

and the Côtes de Castillon : 

Moving onto the dessert phase of the evening, a delightfully scrumptious array of pastries was passed around the table  to tantalize our sweet tooth.

                              

Continuing with the Bordeaux theme, the host presented us with a pour from a Sauternes that she and her husband picked up during one of their frequent visits to France - a 2003 Château d'Arche-Lafaurie

                                   

                             

 A typical blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc produced from grapes concentrated by the magic of pourriture noble (noble rot), intoxicating aromas of pear, apricot, peach, honey and orange alternate together on a palate of viscous, lush sweetness that complement the fruity, succulent pastries.  (Sauternes also pairs well with bleu cheese and foie gras, if you're so inclined.)  Such was a the pièce de résistance that topped off the evening featuring Bordeaux libations that have long been standard bearers of the ultimate in wine culture.

Special thanks to our hosts Carroll, Robin and Bruce for the splendid choice of wines and lovingly prepared food as well as their warm hospitality.  Also, a shout-out to Mike and Linda for engaging conversation.  It was a rich and convivial evening of gastronomic and oenological delights, not to mention long-delayed lively social interaction, which will be treasured for years come.

Post-script: all wines, except for the Sauternes, were purchased at the Corkscrew Wine Shop in Princeton, New Jersey.

Italian Wines: Off the Beaten Path

 There are over 300 grape varietals grown in Italy that are made into wine.  You may be familiar with at least a handful of the more popular ones, such as Sangiovese, Pinot Grigio, Moscato and Nebbiolo.  However, with so many others that are lesser known, yet just as worthy, if not more, it behooves the wine aficionado to make the extra effort to seek them out for a broader appreciation and understanding of what Italy has to offer.

In my latest class, we sampled several of these "off the beaten path" wines from the northernmost region, Piedmont, all the way down to Sicily.  Styles ranged from light, crisp and fruity to dark, complex and full-bodied.  So no matter your particular tastes, you can be assured there's something that will fit your palate, and at a reasonable price point.

One caveat is that although I was able to find all these wines in Pennsylvania State Stores, except for the Grignolino which I purchased at Moore Brothers in Pennsauken, New Jersey, I did have to travel to many different locations since supplies varied quite a bit from store to store.  It's always a good idea, therefore,  to call ahead of time to make sure what you're looking for is in stock as the search function on the state website is not always up to date.  Also, these wines are often Chairman's Select, so when you see them, grab 'em right away because you never know if or when they will come back.

Roberto Sarotto Virgilio Gavi 2020  ($11)

                   

Origin: Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) Gavi

Varietals: 100% Cortese

Tasting Notes: Expressive aromas of acacia, floral scents, green apples, Bosc pear, ripe lemon; apricot; dry, crisp acidity; refreshing palate with elegant, fruity character; long finish. (Reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc?)

Food  Pairing: light appetizers; fish, white meats

Alcohol: 12%

 

La Segreta Grillo 2019  ($13)

                         

Origin: Denominazione di Origine (DOC) Sicilia (Sicily)

Varietal: 100% Grillo

Production/Tasting Notes: Hand-harvested; fermentation at 59 degrees; following fermentation, maturation on the lees; delicate aromas of citrus blossoms, notes of white peaches, grapefruit, seabreeze; mineral; ash; fresh, smooth on the palate; medium body; tangy acidity. (92  points, James Sucking)

Food pairing: aperitif; grilled white meats; fish; seafood; hors d'oeuvres; vegetarian dishes

Alcohol:  12.5%

 

Terredora di Paolo Corte di Giso Irpinia Falanghina 2020  ($17)

                       

Origin:  Irpinia Falanghina DOC

Varietals: 100% Falanghina

Production/Tasting Notes: High altitude (600 meters) cultivation; cold maceration on the skins; fermented in stainless steel tanks at cool temperatures; aged on its lees in stainless steel tanks; rich, intense bouquet of fruity aromas, apple, pineapple, quince, pear; fresh, clean palate,  vibrant acidity; long, flowery finish. 

Food Pairing: hors d'oeuvres; cold buffet; fish dishes; buffalo mozzarella; fresh cheeses

Alcohol:12.5%

 

Gianni Doglia Grignolino d'Asti 2020  ($17)

                      

Origin: Gignolino d'Asti DOC

Varietals: 100% Grignolino

Production/Tasting Notes: Organically farmed vineyards; calcareous soils; hand-harvested; gentle press; maceration of 2-3 days; no skin contact during fermentation; nose of strawberry, clove, roses, white pepper; fresh red fruits and spices on the palate with soft tannins.                      

Food  Pairings: roast poultry; grilled chicken; turkey sausage; braised rabbit; pasta puttanesca; pepperoni pizza  

Alcohol: 13%

 

Torre Mora Cauru Etna Rosso 2019  ($13)

                   

Origin: Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily)

Varietals: 85% Nerello Mascalese, 15% Nerello Cappuccio

Production/Tasting Notes:  Organic grapes; lightly oaked; fresh, fruity; aromas of wild berries, blue flowers, hint of spice; lithe tannins on the palate; juicy strawberry, blood orange, wild herbs; lingering finish. (91 points, Wine Enthusiast)

Food Pairing: Wild mushroom and eggplant; pasta with red clams sauce

Alcohol:  14.5 %

 

Goretti Montefalco Sagrantino 2015  ($18; quoted as $40)

                    

Origin : Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG (Umbria)

Varietal: 100% Sagrantino

Production/Tasting Notes:  Hand harvested; aged 14-18 months in barriques; 30 months maturation in total; limestone-clay soil; concentrated,    rich, spicy; aromas of dark, ripe red fruit, underbrush, prune, mocha; rounded, full-bodied; dried cherry, raisin, licorice, tobacco on the palate; well-structured with tightly-knit, gripping tannins. (91 points, Wine Enthusiast)            

Food Pairings:  pasta dishes with intense tomato sauce, roasted or grilled meats or fish; spicy chicken, beef, lamb, game or cheeses.   

Alcohol:
14.5%

 

Notes on Grape Varietals

Cortese

Primary white varietal associated with the Gavi region of southeast Piedmont.  Noted for its bracing acidity, with crisp, lime, herbal and grassy aromatic notes and flavors of apple, peach and honeydew.  Historically, dates back to the 17th and long considered Piedmont's white varietal.  Also found in the Veneto region where it's typically blended with Trebbiano and Garganega.

Grillo

Primary grape in Marsala wine.  Vinified as both a single varietal and blend.  Light, fresh wine with nutty, fruit-driven flavors, including lemon and apple.  May have originated in Sicily, and reputed to be a favorite of Julius Caesar.  A contender for the quintessential Italian table white: light, easy-drinking and good value.

Falanghina

Ancient grape of the Campania region in southern Italy.  Said to be the grape variety behind Falernian, the famous wine of Roman Antiquity. May be of Greek origin.  Thrives in the porous volcanic soils around Mt. Vesuvius. Main component of the Falerno del Massico and Sannio DOC white wines. Can have a slight pine scent, noted for its citrus-blossom aromas, particularly bitter orange, and apple and pear flavors on the palate with spicy or mineral notes.  Often blended with other indigenous Italian varietals.       

Grignolino

Pale red wine of the Monferrato hills in the Piedmont. The name is derived from the Piedmontese dialectal term grignolo meaning "pip".  Naturally high in tannins and acidity.  A local curiosity overshadowed by Nebbiolo and Barbera.  Two DOC regions devoted to this variety:  Grignolino d'Asti and Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese.

Nerello Mascalese

Highly regarded, dark-skinned variety mostly closely associated with the volcanic soils around Mt. Etna in Sicily, aka "Nebbiolo of the South". Perfume reminiscent of Barolo and Burgundy. Noted for producing taut, fresh wines with fruity, herbaceous flavors, excellent minerality and earthy nuance.  Most commonly blended with Nerello Cappuccio.  Takes its name from the Mascali plain between Mt. Etnan and the coast.  Nerello refers to the black skin of the grape. Planted in the some of the highest elevations in Europe - up to 1000 meters (3280 feet).

Sagrantino

Deeply red varietal grown mainly in Umbria region of central Italy. One of the most tannic of Italian grapes and as such demonstrates great affinity for oak aging (a minimum of 12 months in oak, 37 months total). Dark, dense wine with black cherry and ripe blackberry flavor profiles, under laid with spicy, earthy secondary characteristics.  Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG is the highest expression of the single variety.  

 Other Italian Varietals To Seek Out

Reds

Gaglioppo - soft red from Calabria

Refosco - dark-skinned, high acid grape with grassy, violet aromas from Friuli-Venezia-Giulia (northeast Italy)

Schioppettino - deep-colored, medium-bodied wine from Friuli-Venezia-Giulia (a favorite of mine when I can find it!)

Groppello - medium-bodied, bitter almond red from Lake Garda region

Teroldego - deeply colored, intensely fruity red from Trentino region

Whites

Arneis - recently renascent, revived grape from Piedmont gaining traction in US market; floral-scented, delicate aromas belie fuller body and abundant flavors. (Skip the Pinot Grigio, and indulge your palate!)

Pecorino - dry, minerally white from Le Marche (Marches)

Garganega - main white grape of Soave wines from the Veneto

Grechetto - two different varietals, from Todi and Orvieto, sometimes blended together; light-bodied, highly acidic