Some of these wine regions can take a whole lifetime to explore and master (Bordeaux, the Rhône Valley); others have a much more limited range, but nevertheless offer the discerning wine aficionado much to enjoy and savor (Madiran, Cahors).
What follows below is the wine list for the evening along with some tidbits about the wine regions and producers (vignerons) and a few photos to whet your appetite. The stand-out of the evening was the Cahors which dazzled and delighted pretty much everyone in attendance. At the same time, this wine writer will always have a special affinity for the Chante Cigale. The Château de Nages, a house favorite of mine, was also a hands-down winner.
1. Château de Nages, Vieilles Vignes, Michel
Gassier 2013 (~$15)
Varietals: : 44% Roussanne, 25% Grenache Blanc, 22%
Clairette & 9% Bourboulenc
Classification: Appellation Costières de Nîmes Contrôlée
Production/Tasting
Notes:
Certified organic farming; lees aging; notes of peach, pear,
white flowers and honey character with acacia flowers, rose petals and ripe
fruits (peach, pear, pineapple); Full bodied with an unctuous texture and a
lush, mineral finish.
(90 points Wine
Spectator)
Food
pairings: seafood – calamari, monkfish, turbot (grilled or poached); fresh
goat cheese; asparagus; avocado
13.5% Alcohol
2.
Château de Rochemorin, Pessac-Léognan, André Lurton 2012 (~$25)
Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Classification: Appellation
Pessac-Léognan Contrôlée (Bordeaux)
Production/Tasting Notes: Aged in oak for 10 months (35%
new) on full lees with bâtonnage; no malolactic fermentation;
nose is fresh and lively with notes of
white flowers (acacia), apricot, peach, grapefruit,
honey; well-balanced on the palate revealing myriad flavors:
apricot, peach, citron with a slight saltiness on the finish; may be cellared
up to 2021.
Food pairings: starters; white
meats, fish and shellfish; salads
14% Alcohol
3. Château de Mercuès,
Georges Vigouroux 2009 (~$20)
Varietal: 88% Malbec;
12 % Merlot
Classification: Appellation
Cahors Contrôlée
Production/Tasting
Notes: Aged 12 months in oak casks; dark red with purplish nuances; nose exhibits notes of red/black fruit
(cassis, blackberry, blueberry), spice, licorice; aromatic, complex; palate is round,
supple, creamy with ripe fruit flavors (dark plum) ; full and
rich with powerful, dense tannins; peppery finish; may be cellared through
2024. (91 points, Wine Enthusiast;
90 points Wine Spectator)
Food Pairings: breast of duckling; foie
gras; poultry; charcuterie; cheese: Cabecou, Rocamadour, Cantal
14.5% Alcohol
4.
Chante Cigale, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2011 (~$40)
Varietals: 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 5%
Cinsault
Classification: Appellation
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Contrôlée (Rhône Valley)
Production/Tasting Notes: Aged 15-18 months (70% in
concrete vats; 30% in new barrels); average vine age: 45 years;
deep and intense, exhibiting notes of spice (cinnamon), underbrush and aromas of
black fruits, smooth, round body; lush, rich texture; may be cellared for 10-15 years.
Food pairings: grilled red
meats; coq au vin; venison; ripe cheese
15% Alcohol
5.
Domaine du
Moulié, Madiran, 2011 (~$13)
Varietals:
Mostly Tannat; other grapes include cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc
Production/Tasting Notes: Blackberry,
black cherry aromas with floral hints; intense, full-bodied, exhibiting firm tannins and ripe fruit
Food Pairings:
marbled rib of beef, duck magret with fresh figs, a leg of
lamb, Bigorre black pork or a Thai beef curry.
13.5% Alcohol
Notes on Wine, Producers & Châteaux
Château de Rochemorin:
The wines of Rochemorin were much appreciated in the 18th
century by the lord of the manor, who was none other than Charles Louis de
Secondat, Baron de Montesquieu. The famous philosopher and author of "The
Spirit of the Laws " was full of praise for these vivacious aromatic
wines.
Château de Mercuès: 6,666 vines per hectare (compared
to average of 4, 000); high density is
favorable to Malbec grape, which has grown in Cahors for over 2,000 years. High
density reduces yield per stock and increases quality of wine which exhibits
great concentation and aging potential.
Chante Cigale: In 1874, winemaker Hyppolite Jourdan
declared his 28 hectare estate “Clos Chante Cigale” (vineyard of the singing
cicada). In 1936, when the estate gained
the AOC, the Clos became “Domaine Change Cigale”. The domaine now consists of
104 acres, 88 planted with red grape varietals, 16 are devoted to white
varietals. Family owned and operated, it is overseen by 30-something Alexandre
Favier with his parents Christian and Mariepaule.
Domaine du Moulié:
In 1981, Pierrette and her husband Michel Charrier, bottled
the estate’s first vintage (1979). Since 1981 the Domaine du Moulié produces a
range of Madirans and Pacherencs (since 1990), cleverly blending tradition and
modernity. In 2002, Pierrette took well-deserved retirement and the torch
was passed on to two of her daughters, Lucie the eldest
andMichèle the youngest. The former is in charge of wine vinification
and maturing while the latter handles vine cultivation on the
estate’s steep slopes. The estate currently counts 16 hectares with 14 in
Madiran and 2 in Pacherenc. Recently the two sisters initiated a substantial
transformation, converting a portion of the estate to organic cultivation.
In Gascon language, Moulié means both mill and
miller. The estate is built along the old road that led to the village mill, on
the Bergons River, a small tributary of the Adour. Despite the absence of
official proof, the fact that the estate is built on a crest and its name both
suggest the presence of a windmill in the Middle Ages.
Tannat: this grape variety of choice from the Pyrenean
Piedmont, is the basis for Madiran’s identity and originality. Very rare, with
no more than 3500 hectares throughout the world, it today represents close
to70% of the appellation’s vine stock.
In all probability originating from the Bearn region, Tannat belongs to
the Cotoide family that has been present in the South-West since Roman
times. The term tannat comes from the
Occitan: tan “tannin”, i.e.: tanned. It is made up of compact, cylindrical
two-handled grape bunches; spherical, blue-black medium-sized berries with
thick skin. It is a late-ripening productive variety which flourishes
wonderfully on Madiran lands.
Michel Gassier, Château de Nages, Costières de Nîmes: Rhone Valley's southernmost valley, descending to the edge of the Camargue. Melting glaciers deposited boulders, rocks, gravel and silt to the region which benefits from the moderating effects of sea breezes. Much of the 70 hectares are planted with Syrah, which bears color-drenched, concentrated tannic grapes; Grenache is reserved for poor soil which tempers its exuberance. The terroir is especially suited for Roussane which releases aromatic richness in the wine; Grenache Blanc rounds the blends with mineral notes
