After taking a break in the middle of the week of our Paso Robles winery tours - wherein we took a side trip to the coast visiting Morro Bay, including the imposing Morro Rock that sits like a monolith right on the beach and that can be seen from miles around, and the San Luis Obispo Botanical Gardens - we resumed our enological itinerary with a return visit (for me) to the
Justin Winery justinwine.com
which is located at the far end of the Northwest spoke radiating from the town of Paso Robles.
The roads leading to Justin ramble up and down, around and about over hill and dale offering ever changing vistas of vineyards and grazing fields and copses of trees until one comes across the visitor's entrance (see photo above). It was a bright, sunny, warm California midday as we pulled up to the gravel parking lot where only a handful of visitors had arrived at this early hour to partake of the Michelin-starred culinary delights and award-winning fruits of the vine.
Upon checking in, we were promptly seated in the outdoor patio adjacent to the indoor tasting room and bar where we chose to sample both the Premium Flight ($70) and the Standard Flight ($50) so as to take advantage of a more comprehensive array of cuvees Justin has to offer. (There is a third sampling list, the Heritage Flight [$100] which features top wines from the mid 2010s with price points well above $100.)
Rather than enumerate and describe one-by-one each of the wines we sampled, I will just mention a few of the highlights as enticement to make the journey to Justin if you have to be traveling in the area. The standard flight starts off with the 2024 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, which at $30 a bottle is perhaps the best "value" wine of the entire Justin portfolio - indeed I purchased a couple bottles to ship back home. The entry level Justin Sauvignon Blanc, widely available in stores back East, including in Pennsylvania, is also a good bargain. However, for a very affordable price upgrade, the Reserve offers up a premium Sauvignon Blanc that rivals many more expensive California versions. This medium-body, small production issue from the best of the plots in the Paso Robles area delights the sense with orange-blossom florals and prominent notes of lemon, key lime, kiwi and white peach. Vibrant and crisply acidic with a stony mineral backbone, this wine boasts a nicely balanced texture and mouthfeel that finishes clean and herbaceous with lingering tropical fruit notes. Think crab-stuffed deviled eggs or briny oysters on the half-shell as the perfect pairing.
The red wines of Justin focus to a large extent on Cabernet Sauvignon blends under the Isosceles label with a smaller production line of Cabernet France blends under the Justification label. We sampled a couple of the Isosceles vintages - the 2021 and the 2019 reserve - which are composed predominantly of Cab Sauvignon (over 80%) with small amounts of Cab Franc and Merlot. The Isosceles is known as the Justin's flagship wine, setting the standard for this style of wine on the Central Coast. The 2021 vintage brings complex aromatics of ripe cherry and black currant followed with savory notes of cedar, pipe tobacco, baking spice and warm oak. On the palate, this full-bodied, dark purple blend oozes creme de cassis, black berry jam with hints of red berry, vanilla and licorice leading to layered savory notes of cedar, leather and tobacco leaf. The extended finish takes on baking spice and oak notes with chewy tannins and balancing acidity maintaining freshness and depth.
I must hasten to add that our very young, fresh-faced, host and server, Kyle, who was eminently knowledge, gracious and hospitable, went above and beyond to regale us with superior service, taking pains to split each tasting glass in half for the two of us, explaining in depth the different approaches in grape selection and vinification of each wine we tasted, and most impressively, topped off our tasting experience with a sample of the winery's most prestigious (and expensive at $315 per bottle) issue - the 2015 Platinum Reserve, a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, only available to members. Drawn from the best of their Cabernet barrels, this exceptional wine features complex notes of layered black fruit, exotic spice aromas and textural structural elements that enhance the harmonious, plush, savory, sensorial tasting experience. Barrel-aged in 100% new French oak for 24 months, plus an additional 24 months in the bottle, this Cabernet Sauvignon highlights a rare tasting experience that will remain etched in my sensory repertoire for years to come.
Not to be overshadowed by the memorable, top-notch wines we sampled, Justin is noted for its Michelin-starred kitchen which serves a prix-fixe dining menu in the evening, but also a somewhat less ambitious lunch menu which we enjoyed while savoring the wine samples. The same high quality food and preparation go into the midday selections as we discovered in our order of the Burrata, the Summer Estate Salad and the Housemade Rigatoni. Even if Justin were not an esteemed winery, I would definitely go back for the food. Each dish was outstanding, bounteous and memorable. (Once again I apologize for neglecting to take pictures of each dish, so engrossed was I in absolute deliciousness and full-flavored sensation in every bite.) The burrata was brought to new heights with the addition of duck prosciutto and aleppo pistachio, the salad was bursting with garden fresh heirloom tomatoes from their plot not 50 yards away, and the rigatoni was perhaps the most creative and tasty medley of pasta, guanciale and fresh vegetables - topped with 24-month aged parmesan - I have ever had the pleasure of consuming. Needless to say, we were totally sated when we finally managed to extricate ourselves from the table and move on down the road to another of Paso's iconic wineries - Tablas Creek.
Just a few miles down the road from Justin lies the Tablas Creek Vineyard which was founded in the late 1980s as a partnership between Robert Haas, a California wine importer and the Perrin family, owners of the celebrated Chateau de Beaucastel of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape (C-d-P) appellation in the Southern Rhone valley. Supported by vine cuttings from Beaucastel, Tablas Creek and other wineries came to be known as the "Rhone Rangers" emulating the style, varietals and blends of their world-renowned French forerunners. Whites include Bourbolenc, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussane and Viognier, whereas the Reds cover the varietals that make Chateaufneuf-du-Pape and their sister appellations so sought after - Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Counoise, Syrah. They also produce a favorite of mine more associated with the Madiran region of SW France as well as Uruguay, Tannat.
Not only has Tablas Creek been certified as both organic and biodynamic for many years, they were also the first to be Regenerative Organic Certified in 2022. ROC protocols go beyond organic or biodynamic certification by setting the world's highest standards for soil health, animal welfare and farmworker fairness. Regenerative practices include interplantings of hundreds of fruit trees around and within vineyards, composting made on-site from prunings and grape must, natural pest control, maintenance of 100+ acres of native oak woodland and beehives to support biodiversity. Furthermore, they are 100% solar-powered, and use dry-farmed block to reduce water use. What this means to consumers like you and me is that you can be assured that the wine you consume from such vineyards are produced in the most environmentally friendly and compatible manner and will be maintained for future generation to enjoy.
We opted for the Classic Flight Tasting which included one white (100% White Grenache), one rose (a Patelin de Tablas blend of Grenache Noir, Mourvedre, with a touch of Vermentino and Counoise) and three reds (100% Grenache noir; Cotes de Tablas; and Esprit de Tablas, the latter two being varied blends of Grenache Noir, Mourvedre, Syrah, Counoise, Vaccarese, and Cinsault). The Esprit de Tablas, sourced from the top 15% estate grown lots, is modeled after the Beaucastel C-d-P, yet the $75 a bottle price tag is very attractive given that C-d-Ps of note generally run well over $100. Furthermore, despite or perhaps because of Tablas Creek's regenerative practices, price points are noticeably more affordable than many other reputable Paso Robles producers, as prices for the samples we tasted from from $30 to $45, excepting the aforementioned Esprit de Tablas.
I'm especially drawn to their Vermentino which is beautifully textured, exuding notes of apricot, honeysuckle, lemongrass on the nose with flavors of peach, yellow raspberry, mandarin and sweet spice on the palate tinged with salty minerality. Stone fruit and star fruit linger on the layered finish. And on my first visit to Tablas 10 years ago, I was enraptured by their Tannat, that captivates with aromas of black cherry, blueberry, cocoa and sweet thyme. Flavors of earthy mocha and dark berries on the palate lead to namesake grippy tannins and bright acidity on the finish.
The Cotes de Tablas lines of both white and red are generally available in wine shops on the East Coast, but for the widest and deepest selections, there's nothing that beats an on-site visit for tasting and purchase. It's must stop on the itinerary for any fan of Rhone-style wines.
Dresser Winery dresserwinery.com
Our last day of touring took us to a couple of wineries on the east side of Paso Robles, just a short drive from our Airbnb rental. First on the itinerary was Dresser Winery, a small (only about a dozen acres under vine for 7 varietals, producing 2,000 cases annually), family-owned and operated vineyard and wine production facility originally founded in 2000. Specializing in bold, full-bodied reds from estate grown grapes, owner-winemaker Cory Burke produces a portfolio of dynamic and palate pleasing reds - Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Malbec, in a mix of both blends and single varietals.
Our tasting samples actually started off, however, with a crisp and refreshing Pinot Gris, produced with grapes from a neighboring vineyard, Stillwater, which was to be the last stop in our week's enological adventures. We opted to pair the wine samples with freshly baked scones sourced from a local bakery that you may reserve ahead of your visit. The Pinot Gris, offering up aromas of candied tropical fruit, followed by floral notes of wildflowers and herbs, finishing with bright lemon zest, was paired with the lemon ginger scones.
Next up was the 2021 Zinfandel, which was paired with bacon, date and goat cheese scones (Yum! Yum!). Aged for 15 months in 85% Hungarian oak and 15% American oak, this tasty, delightful Zin appeals with a nose of thin mints, vanilla bean and lavender. The 2022 Kaia Lee, named after the Burkes' daughter, is a blend of 60% Zinfandel, 30% Malbec and 10% Syrah and exudes aromas of black cherry, strawberry interspersed with umami soy and truffle notes. The Syrah adds hints of pepper to the nose and palate. Paired with cherry scones, the bright acidity brings out tart strawberry and dark chocolate on the finish.
Last, but not least, the 2022 Daydream, a blend of 60% Zinfandel, 20% Syrah, 10% Petite Sirah and 10% Merlot, was paired with the double chocolate scones and enticed with delicious aromas of waffles, mixed berry compote and smoky, candied, brown sugar bacon. Full-bodied with well-integrated tannins, the finish ends on a chocolatey note.
For a very small winery of limited production, the winery's extensive portfolio is quite impressive. The picturesque, intimate setting is enhanced by personal attention that was graciously granted us by our lovely host and server, Sheila, a local teacher who only recently had begun working in the hospitality/wine industry was eager to please and chat up her customers.
To sum up, Dresser epitomizes the friendly, easy-going, laid-back ambience and hospitality of modest, family-run wineries Paso wineries that nevertheless produce enticing, powerful, high quality wines and reflect that rich diversity and potential of this remarkable terroir.
Still Waters Vineyards https://www.stillwatersvineyards.com/
Last on our winery itinerary for the week was the Still Waters Vineyards, located just 10 minutes or so down the road from Dresser and situated at the end of a long lane high above the main road with panoramic views of countless rows of vines that stretch into the distant valley as far as the eye can see.
The picturesque outdoor garden-like setting is definitely one of the added pleasures of sipping wine at this low-key, family-run winery. I must say, however, that the owner-winemaker, who was holding forth pretty much non-stop with a large group of wine tourists brought in by bus, did tend to distract my friend Richard and myself as we endeavored to enjoy the wines on the sample list. Fortunately, the tasting did not disappoint, and included a Pinot Gris, a Zinfandel and two red blends. (Please see the photo below for detailed descriptons.)
Our server and host was very welcoming, offering us very friendly hospitality and cogent remarks regarding the wines we were sampling as well as a description of the winery and its operation. The price point of most the wines for sale was perhaps the easiest on the wallet, hovering around the mid to upper $30 range. Alas! After I made my selection for a shipment back home, we were informed that for some reason the winery was not able to to ship to Pennsylvania.
Despite the disappointment of not being to bring back some wines from Still Waters, the relaxing atmosphere was a fitting ending to our week of enological meanderings in this most appealing and varied landscape that produces world-class wines in diverse settings, but each unique in their own way. Given the plethora of wineries in the greater Paso Robles area, I could certainly foresee yet another follow-up visit in the years to come, and I would highly recommend to all you wine travelers out there that you put this region high on your list for gustatory destinations.
