Wine Tasting: Sauvignon Blancs from around the World

 Among the white noble varietals, Sauvignon Blanc often gets short shrift as an also-ran next to Chardonnay and Riesling. Nevertheless, this particular varietal enjoys a myriad of expressions throughout the Old and New Worlds, and is now getting more recognition among some wine critics as a world class wine with ever increasing point scales worthy of accolades previously reserved for its sibling varietals. In my latest class, we delved into the particularities of various terroirs from around the world that are instrumental in producing distinctive tasting profiles that will delight and tantalize your taste buds as we move into the spring season.

1692 Spier Seaward Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Origin/Classification: W.O. (Wine of Origin) Coastal Region, South Africa

Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes: Aromas of melon, gooseberry, tropical fruit, grass and green figs; notes of grapefruit and other citrus fruit; crisp, light-bodied; long lingering finish.

Food Pairings: Seafood salad; roast chicken

Alcohol: 13.5%

 

Dog Point 2023

Origin: AMW (Marlborough), Wairu Valley, New Zealand

Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes: Whole bunch pressed; 4 months aging in stainless steel tanks; partly fermented with indigenous yeast; no fining; perfumy array of citrus including grapefruit, lemon, lime, mandarin; juicy and fresh upfront on the palate with ripe stone fruit; intense, generous flavors; refreshing saline acidity. (92 points, James Suckling)  Most participants were turned off by the rather musty, powdery, funky nose on this wine, but once you get past that, on the palate it becomes more and more savory as indicated the notes mentioned above.

Alcohol: 13%

  

Chalk Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Origin: Chalk Hill, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County

Varietal: 93% Sauvignon Blanc; 7% Sauvignon Gris

Production/Tasting Notes: Cultured yeast fermentation in barrel; 5 months aging on the lees in 69% French oak (10% new) and 31% stainless steel with periodic batonnage; aromas of white flower, passion fruit, guava, honeydew, citrus with a touch of oak; crisp, plush on the palate with balanced acidity, smooth texture; Meyer lemon on the finish.

Food Pairings: lobster with rich sauce; scallops

Alcohol: 14.6%

 

King Maui Cellar Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Origin: Marlborough, New Zealand

Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes: Herbaceous and tropical overtones featuring green melon, citrus and grapefruit flavors; abundant acidity. (92 points, Wine Advocate)

Food Pairings: Salmon, oysters        

Alcohol:   12.5%

 

Brisandes (Los Vascos) Sauvignon Blanc 2024

Origin: Colchagua Valley, Chile

Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes: Collaboration with Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite; cold maceration for a few hours followed by pressing and fermenting at low temperature in stainless steel tanks; partly aged on the lees; aromas of peach, pear, lychee and citrus (lime) with undertones of tarragon, peppermint and freshly cut grass; lively, fresh and persistent on the palate; crisp finish. (90 points, James Suckling)

Food Pairings: Seafood and shellfish

Alcohol: 12%

 

Framingham Sauvignon Blanc  2023

Origin/Classification: Marlborough, New Zealand

Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes: Some skin contact in fermentation; briefly aged in oak and acacia barrels; intense aromas of gooseberry, currant leaves, lime zest; crisp and tangy; medium-bodied; bright acidity; citrusy finish.  (90 points, James Suckling);   “display[s} fresh ginger, white pepper and passion fruit flavors… intense and mouthwatering, including salted lime, ruby grapefruit and yuzu.” – Wine Spectator, 90 points.

Food Pairings: Soft cheeses; white meat

Alcohol: 13%

 

Nicolas Gaudry Pouilly-Fume 2023

Origin: Appellation Pouilly-Fume Controlee

Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes: Zesty citrus aromas, grapefruit and lemon; herbal notes of thyme and grass; crisp, lively acidity; minerally undertones imbue flinty notes.

Food Pairings: Oysters; goat cheese; grilled chicken; sauteed shrimp

Alcohol: 13%

 

 

Pascal Thomas Pouilly Fume 2023

Origin: Appellation Pouilly Fume Controlee

Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes:  Hand-harvested; aromas of grapefruit; gooseberry; green pear, quince, lemon peel with subtle earth and flint notes and a crisp finish.

Food Pairings: crabcakes, seafood, and vegetable forward dishes.

Alcohol: 13%

 

Justin Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Origin: Central Coast, California

Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes:  Whole cluster pressing;  fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel tanks; no malolactic fermentation; aromas of ripe lemon, green apple, peach, citrus blossom and fresh herbs; medium-bodied; bright lemon and Granny Smith on initial palate, pineapple and fresh-cut herbs on mid-palate; moderately long finish textured with sustained citrus, herbal and mineral notes. (91 points, Wine Spectator)

Food Pairings: Grilled salmon; tapas; seafood salad

Alcohol: 13.5%

Rapura Springs Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Origin: AMW Marlborough, New Zealand

Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes: These notes are specifically for the 2024 vintage, but may be used as a reference point for the 2023 issue that we tasted in class: "Generous, vibrant, offering intense passion fruit, lemongrass and lemon verbena [creating] an aromatic mix with lemon, Key lime and vetiver accents, plus a long, juicy finish." Wine Spectator, 92 points.

Alcohol: 13%

Notes on Sauvignon Blanc

Flavor Profiles & Aromas: Citrus, (Grapefruit, Lemon), Melon; herb, freshly cut grass, boxwood, gooseberry; mineral; those with oak – vanilla, spice, smoke. (A common perception is that sometimes the aroma, especially in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, is reminiscent of cat pee, which critics shy away from naming, but there’s denying the pungent aroma in certain brands.)

Styles: 1) Crisp - lively and refreshing, full of fruit flavors; 2) Elegant, crisp yet round and complex; layers of flavors; 3) Oak – toasty notes, hints of smoke and vanilla.

Food Pairings:

          Fruity – Mussels, Scallops, Shellfish

          Grassy/Herbal – Grilled Vegetables

          Creamy, Oaked – Grilled Chicken, Swordfish

Major Sauvignon Blanc Producing Regions:

          Bordeaux – Pessac-Leognan, Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers

          Loire – Pouilly-Fume, Sancerre, Touraine

          New Zealand – Marlborough, Hawkes Bay

          California – Sonoma County, Napa Valley

          South Africa – Stellenbosch

          Chile, Washington State

A Wine Tasting - Germany & Austria

 When one thinks of wines from Germany and Austria, what comes to mind is typically Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, respectively. And indeed, they are some of the best examples of these particular varietals. However, there are many other types of wine - red, white and sparkling - that also deserve recognition and serious tasting, including Spätburgunder (Merlot), Gewürztraminer, Blaufränkisch (Lemberger), Zweigelt and St. Laurent. 

In my most recent classes, I featured dry and dry-ish Rieslings as well as Gewurztraminer, Gruner Veltliner, Zweigelt and Spatburgunder.  (Currently, all the wine shops seemed to be out of Lemberger and St. Laurent, but you can get the former at many Finger Lakes wineries if you happen to be visiting that area.)  Contrary to popular belief, most German Riesling are actually dry, it's just that most of the sweet version are exported to the US.  I give some hints below on how to determine if a Riesling is likely to be sweet or dry.

In any case, these are some of selections available in local wine shops which were all enjoyed by those attending my classes.

Prost!

P.S. I include my own personal ratings (PWG)  for the first time on this blog!

Hirsch Kamptal Gruner Veltliner 2022 ($22, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin/Classification: Kamptal DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus -  Austrian Qualitatswein), Austria

Varietal: 100% Gruner Veltliner

Production/Tasting Notes: Loess soil; stainless steel maturation; biodynamic; organic; expressive fresh citrus aromas with wild herb and chamomile notes; delicate fruity character on the palate; crisp, yellow apple taste; touch of white pepper spice. (PWG: 90 points)

Food Pairings: Wienerschnitzel; tuna salad; zucchini quiche

Alcohol: 11.5%

 

Hiedler Loss Gruner Veltliner 2023  ($17, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin: Niederosterreich, Austria

Varietal: 100% Gruner Veltliner

Production/Tasting Notes: Loess soils – lime, dolomite, quartz, mica, clay; hand-harvested; maceration for several hours; fermented in stainless steel; matured on the lees for 4 months; floral scent; white flowers; Mirabelle; lemon zest; minerally palate; bright fruit character; fresh apple; juicy; crisp acidity. (PWG: 93 points)

Food Pairings: Kartoffelsalat (potato salad); salad Nicoise

Alcohol: 12%

 

 

 

Donnhoff Riesling Dry 2023 ($19-22, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin: Nahe, Germany

Varietal: 100% Riesling

Production/Tasting Notes: Stony (slate, quartzite; porphyry, melaphyre) volcanic weathered soils; 15–30-year-old vines; fermentation and maturation in stainless steel and oak barrels; delicate stone fruit, floral and citrus aromas; light to medium body; bracing minerality; fine acidity. (93 points, James Suckling; PWG: 92 points)

Food Pairings: Softshell crab; lobster with rich sauce; scallops

Alcohol: 12%

 

Villa Wolf Gewurztraminer 2023 ($12, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin: Pfalz, Germany

Varietal: 100% Gewurztraminer

Production/Tasting Notes: Delicate aromas of spice, exotic fruits, fresh roses;  juicy texture; touch of sweetness; ight bodied. (PWG: 88 points)

Food Pairings: Spicy Asian cuisine   

Alcohol:   11.5%

Borell Diehl Gewurztraminer Kabinett 2023

Origin/Classification: QmP, Pfalz, Germany

Varietal: 100% Gewurztraminer

Production/Tasting Notes: Very aromatic; fragrances of rose, lychee; orange spice; slightly sweet; light-bodied. (PWG: 89 points)

 

Dr. Loosen “Red Slate” Riesling Dry 2022 ($18, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin: VDP Gutswein (Estate Wine) Mosel, Germany

Varietal: 100% Riesling

Production/Tasting Notes: Fermented in 3,00 liter neutral oak casks; aged on full lees for 12 months; soft, round structure; floral, spicy, citrus blossom aromas; hints of grapefruit, tangerine, apricot, geranium, anise, herbs; lively acidity; intense minerality; flavors of wet stone, citrus, stone fruit; harmonious; expressive texture. (PWG: 90 points)

Food Pairings: Teriyaki

Alcohol: 11.5%

 

St Urbans Single Post Mosel Riesling Kabinett 2020 ($16, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin/Classification: Pradikatswine; Mosel, Germany

Varietal: 100% Riesling

Production/Tasting Notes: Tangerine, lemon flavors; hints of caramel and saffron; delicately sweet; light bodied, lean; juicy; fresh-fruited. (PWG: 89 points)

Food Pairings: Soft cheeses; white meat

Alcohol: 7.5%

 

Villa Wolf Pinot Noir 2022 ($15, Wineworks, NJ)

Origin: Pfalz, Germany

Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir

Production/Tasting Notes: 12 months in French oak barriques; medium-bodied; firm acidity; black cherry fruit; juicy, ripe, and forward with spicy mid-palate; smoky depth; touch of earthy tannins. (PWG: 88 points)      

Food Pairings: Smoked Salmon; lamb; antipasti; salami; risotto; burgers; pork

Alcohol: 13%

 

Pfaffl Vom Haus Zweigelt 2023 ($16, Narberth, PA)

Origin: Niederosterreich, Austria

Varietal: 100% Zweigelt

Production/Tasting Notes: Loess soils; fermentation in stainless steel tanks; 30% maturation in used oak barrels, 70% in stainless steel tanks; cherry and sour cherry aromas; juicy, full, round and spice on the palate; gentle, soft tannins;  round body. (PWG: 89 points)

Food Pairings: burger; pizza; pasta

Alcohol: 13.5%

 

Familie Allendorf Assmnanshauser Spatburgunder Trocken 2019 ($25, Narberth, PA)

Origin/Classification: Assmanshauser VDP Ortswein, Rheingau, Germany

Varietal: 100% Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir)

Production/Tasting Notes: Slate soil; richly concentrated yet racy; ripe, luscious black cherry and plum flavors; supple texture; high-toned acidity; bracing structured feel; finish marked by notes of crushed black pepper, tar, ash with rim of smooth, silken tannins. (88 points, Wine Enthusiast; PWG: 89 points)

Food Pairings: roast lamb; 

Alcohol: 12.5%

 

VDP (Verband Deutscher Pradikatsweinguter) Classifications

Grosses Gewachs (Grosse Lage) (Great Growths) – Made in a dry style with a minimum spätlese ripeness.

Erste Gewachs (Erste Lage) (First Growth) – Same as GG, but pertains only to Rheingau region.

Lagenwein  (Ortswein) (Terroir Wines) – Wine from a top estate bearing the name of the vineyard where the grapes were grown with  strict harvest laws.

Gutswein (House Wines) – Labeled with a proprietary name of a village or region with high quality reflecting regional character.

 

German Wine Labels

QbA (Qualitats bestimmter Anbaugebiete: Everyday table wines from any of the 13 growing regions; vary from sweet to dry.

QmP (Qualitatswein mit Pradikat): indicates standard of production for top level of German wines with the following levels of ripeness:

·        Kabinett: first level of ripeness, generally the lightest of QMP wines; usually driest.

·        Spatlese: harvested later than Kabinett with greater level of ripeness; medium-weight wine; dry or sweet.

·        Auslese: later harvest than Spatlese; medium to heavyweight wines; drier versions pair with richer game meats, cheeses, spicy food.

·        Beerenauslese: individually hand harvested late to create special dessert wines; made from botrytized grapes.

·        Trockenbeerenauslese: shriveled, botrytized grapes are individually hand harvested to produce even more intense dessert wines;

·        Eiswein: grapes harvested while frozen resulting in the extraction of pure intense juice.

 

Tips to Determine if a Riesling Is Likely to be Sweet or Dry

·        Alcohol Percentage: 11.5% ABV and above tend to be dry; below 11% will be sweeter; late-harvest wines at 9% or below are all but certain to be very sweet.

·        Trocken: meaning “Dry” in German, this word is the best indicator of a dry Riesling with a maximum of 9 grams of residual sugar per liter

·        GG: the term ‘Grosses Gewachs” for members of the VDP is used to indicate dry wines made from grapes grown on a single vineyard, commonly recognized as the best dry wines in Germany.

·        Regions that begin with the letters A: these regions – Austria, Australia, Alsace – are best known for their dry Rieslings, particularly Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal in Austria

·        Cooler Climates: these tend toward dry Rieslings, such as the Finger Lakes.

·        Ask a knowledgeable sales person or merchant: Any responsible wine seller worth his/her salt, should be able to point you in the direction of a dry or sweet Riesling.

 

 

 

 

 

Rediscovering and Reassessing a Memorable Wine - Virginia Petit Verdot

 One of the pleasures of sampling wines on a road trip is revisiting, or more precisely, re-tasting wines that you purchased at the winery much later to be reminded why you bought it in the first place.  I have  experienced such rediscoveries multiple times in recent weeks, the latest being a Petit Verdot that I brought back from a trip to Williamsburg in August 2022.  (Please see my previous post from that time in which I briefly mentioned this particular wine https://phillywineguy.blogspot.com/2022/08/virginia-in-vino-veritas.html .)

As I stated in my previous post, Petit Verdot is quickly becoming a signature varietal of Virginia wineries, and Upper Shirley's cuvee is a prime example of the quality, depth and richness of this grape which, though usually a minor player in Bordeaux blends and the like, takes on special dimensions as a single varietal.

First settled and farmed in 1613, Upper Shirley was built in 1867 along the banks of the James River just 20 miles southeast of Richmond.  One of just a handful of  artisan winemakers in Eastern Virginia, Upper Shirley Vineyards is a lovely, inviting and hospitable estate with a large, comfortable tasting room and restaurant with both inside and outside seating.  (Again, see my previous post for more details.)   My sampling had featured a number of red, white and rose wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Tannat and Mourvedre.  The Petit Verdot was one of the standout reds, which I was pleased to confirm on my recent tasting.

Upper Shirley Petit Verdot 2016

Origin: Eastern Virginia

Varietal: 100% Petit Verdot

Production/Tasting Notes: Long maceration on skins; 19 months  aging in French and American oak barrels; dense black cherry; brambly jam; smoky, dark chocolate; briar; dried herbs; lingering finish.   This is a luscious, powerful, full-bodied wine that even over a few days continues to develop and mellow further into layered, expanding expressions of red fruit and herbs, sustained by firm tannins. (PWG* Rating: 93-4 points)

Alcohol: 14.1%

*PWG - Philly Wine Guy. I've decided to follow suit with several wine publications and critics and implement my own rating based on my personal experience and assessment of the wine over several tastings.  As such, I will use the 100 point scale and will elaborate on it in a follow-up post. For this debut rating, I assign 93-4 points which indicates a high quality wine with certain exceptional distinctions.  Since no rating can be static, in my opinion, because of how situations can influence one's impressions and assessments, I will allow myself a bit "fudging" between points. 

I realize that the wines of Upper Shirley, including this one that I am featuring here, are not readily available outside of Virginia.  However, the point of this post is to encourage you to explore local and regional wineries when you're on the road, take time to taste the wines, and bring home a few bottles to experience them in a different time and place and see how your perception of the wine may have changed.  No less important is supporting local and regional wineries that do not get the attention of the big players, for the greater the diversity of the world's terroirs, the more robust the cultivation, production and variety of wines we will enjoy.  Salud!

Wine Dinner Featuring (PA) Chairman's Selections

 The Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board, notoriously abbreviated PLCB, has long been the butt of many jokes, endlessly moaned and complained about, and derided by any number of wine connoisseurs, including myself.  However, over recent decades, they have loosened up a bit, if glacially, and many stores offer free wine tastings on Fridays and/or Saturdays.  In fact, I regularly attend those at the 11th and Chestnut Streets for (always) interesting and sometimes surprising selections, curated by Max and James, whom I trust as very knowledgeable and helpful wine geeks, if I may use that term  graciously.

For many years, the PLCB has offered specially discounted wines under the rubric of Chairman's Selections.  I have often availed myself of these (usually) exceptional deals, the only caveat being that they are for the most part "once and done", meaning once the supply is exhausted, you may not see it again.  Nevertheless, they are always worth seeking out.

Which leads me to the theme for a recent wine dinner among a small group of friends where I featured a tasting of five Chairman's Selections, two white and three red, all of which were enthusiastically imbibed by the dinner guests. (Once again I regret that I neglected to take pictures of the delicious food laid out by our gracious hosts, for which I will no doubt be reprimanded!)

In any event, I highly recommend seeking out any of these featured wines for a delightful accompaniment to your next meal. Salud! 

(P.S. I purchased all of them at the Ardmore location, but most should be available at specialty Wine and Spirits stores throughout Pennsylvania.)

Monte del Frà Cà del Magro Custoza Superiore 2021

Origin:  Cà del Magro Custoza Denominazione di Origine Controllata (Veneto, SE of Lake Garda, Italy)

Varietals: Garganega, Trebbiano Toscan, Cortese, Incrocio Manzoni

Production/Tasting Notes:  Unoaked; fresh and bright with notes of  peach, apricots, lemon, melon, honeysuckle, quince paste, beeswax, almonds; lively acidity;  extra virgin olive oil texture on the palate(?); medium to full-bodied with layers of mineral, pepper and smoke; long salt-tinged finish. (91 points Wine Spectator;  93 points, James Suckling)

Food Pairing: Aperitif; light appetizers; fresh water fish; vegetarian and Mediterranean fare

Alcohol:13%

 

Jean-Claude Mas Allnat Vermentino 2023

Origin: Pays d'Oc (France)

Varietals: 100% Vermentino

Production/Tasting Notes: Light, fresh and elegant nose with floral notes of hawthorn, lime blossom, fresh pear and touch of lemon; juicy, textured palate with integrated acidity;

Food  Pairings:  seafood salad; scallop carpaccio with citrus vinaigrette; langoustine flambéed with pastis; fillet of red mullet

Alcohol: 13%

 

 Bodegas Manzanos 111 Reserva  2018

Origin: Rioja DOCa (Spain)

Varietal: Tempranillo; Garnacha; Graciano

Production/Tasting Notes: Aromas of blackberry, red apple peel, vanilla; pleasant mouthfeel; abundant tannins; flavors of black cherry, black raspberry, cherry pipe tobacco, clove, mint; touch of salinity on extended finish. (93 points, Wine Enthusiast)

Food Pairing: tapas; olives; roasted pepper; smoked meat; Serrano ham

Alcohol:  13.5%

 

Casa Silva Dona Dominga Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

Origin: D.O. Valle de Cochagua, Chile

Varietal: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Production/Tasting Notes: Complex, elegant; up-front notes of calendula and dried currant; spiced currant and cranberry developing into chocolate-covered raspberry nuances; well-notable structure and depth on the mid-palate; lengthy finish. (92 points, Wine Spectator)

 Food Pairings: Grilled meat; roast beef; mushroom stroganoff; Havarti; Guyere 

Alcohol: 14.5%

 

Courtois La Grange Vinsobres 2020

Origin: Appellation Vinsobres Contrôlée (Côtes-du-Rhône)

Varietal: 55% Grenache; 45% Syrah

Production/Tasting Notes: Layered and complex; full-on flavors of boysenberry, plum, violet, cherry amply sprinkled piquant white pepper; smoked herbs; densely packed with streaks of salinity and iron fused with firm tannins; well-structured, powerful. (90 points, Wine Spectator)

 

Food Pairing: beef stew, lamb, roasted or grilled red meats

Alcohol: 14%