There was a time when mentioning "Chianti" conjured up images of cheap red wine in large round bottles with straw casings, otherwise known as "fiaschi". In my latest class, one of the objectives was to disabuse students of any such notions, and instead focus on Chianti Classico, and feature several iterations of this highly renowned toast of Tuscany. We sampled Classicos from a variety of producers and subzones of the DOCG, and discovered the wide and diverse range of taste profiles that grace the Sangiovese-based wines from the rolling hills of central Italy whose history and traditions date back many centuries.
I invite you to examine or re-examine the delights of this preeminent wine region which has seen a great renaissance of style and quality in the new millenium.
(All wines were purchased at Total Wine in Claymont Delaware, except the Cafaggios and the Clememente VII which were Chairman Select wines at the 11th and Chestnut Pa. store in Philadelphia.)
Tenuta di Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 ($22)
UGA
Subzone: Greve in Chianti
Varietal:
100% Sangiovese
Production/Tasting
Notes: Maceration with délestage and racking in stainless
steel vats for about 20 days; malolactic fermentation; 24 months aging in
French oak barriques; 3 months bottle aging; ripe, red berry and cherry aromas
and flavors; lavender; violet; mid-weight texture; earthy undertones; vibrant, fresh acidity
with a backbone of firm, sleek tannins; lingering finish. (93 points, James
Suckling).
Food
Pairing: grilled meat; pasta
Alcohol:14%
Baruffo
Cantalici Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 ($25)
Origin:
Chianti
Classico DOCG Riserva
UGA
Subzone: Gaiole in Chianti
Varietals:
100%
Sangiovese
Production/Tasting
Notes: Hand harvested grapes; cold maceration, fermentation
in stainless steel; 18 months (70%)
aging in French oak barrels; notes of berries, ripe plums, spice,
tobacco and chocolate on the nose; soft, immediate opening on the palate with
red fruit and rich, rigorous tannins; cherry and spice on the finish.
Food Pairings: Roast game;
fiorentina steak; pasta
Alcohol:
14.5%
Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico 2021 ($28)
Origin:
Chianti
Classico DOCG
UGA
Subzone: Castellina in Chianti
Varietal:
95%
Sangiovese; 5% Canaiolo
Production/Tasting
Notes: 7 days maceration with racking and pumpovers;14 months aging in barriques; 7 months
bottle aging; fragrant, fresh aromas of red fruit, licorice, currant; hint of
vanilla, cedar spice; soft, round, flavorful on the palate; persistent acidity
on the finish. (89 points, Wine
Enthusiast)
Food
Pairing: medium-aged cheeses; lasagna; ragu' sauces; roast
rabbit; braised veal shank
Alcohol: 13.5%
Castelli Del Grevepesa Clemente VIII Chianti Classico
2019 ($13; retail $25)
Origin: Chianti Classico DOCG
UGA Subzone: San Casciano
Varietal:
100%
Sangiovese
Production/Tasting
Notes: Cherry, plum fruit; vibrant acidity; ripe tannins; herbal notes of thyme, fresh oregano; spice, tobacco; velvety; lingering finishing; (90 points, Wine Spectator)
Alcohol:
14%
S. Andrea in Colle Chianti Classico Riserva
2020 ($24)
Origin: Chianti Classico DOCG
UGA Subzone: San Cascino
Varietal:
100%
Sangiovese
Production/Tasting
Notes: fermentation up to 15 days; 24 months aging in
French oak; medium-bodied; intense aromas of violet flowers, red berries; rich
bing cherry flavor; white rose; vanilla; hints of spice and leather; complex,
smooth.
Food
Pairing: grilled or roasted meats; pasta with red sauce
Alcohol: 14%
Tenuta di Renierei Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 ($27)
Origin: Chianti Classico DOCG
UGA Subzone: Castelnuovo Berardenga
Varietals:
100%
Sangiovese
Production/Tasting
Notes: Made with organic grapes; 18 months aging in Allier
oak barriques; "[F]ruity nose of peaches, plums, lemons, tea leaves,
seaweed; vibrant, racy, medium bodied; tight-grained tannins and crunchy
acidity. Salty undertones". - James Suckling, 93 pts.
"Spicy aromas of wild berries, ripe cherry,
licorice and herbs with silky texture." (Producer/label notes.)
Food
Pairing: pasta with red sauce; grilled pork; hard cheeses
Alcohol: 14.5%
Cafaggio Basilica Solatio Chianti Classico Riserva 2015 ($20; retail $50)
Origin:
Chianti
Classico DOCG
UGA
Subzone: Greve in Chianti
Varietal:
100%
Sangiovese
Production/Tasting
Notes: 24 months aging in Slovenian oak barrels; 6 months
bottle aging; black cherry, plum, wild rosemary,thyme; measured, balance; soft,
exuberant fruit; soft integrated tannins; fleshy, fruity finish. (92 points, Wine Spectator; 93 points Wine Advocate)
Food
Pairing: mushroom risotto; slow cooked pork belly
Alcohol: 14%
Cafaggio Basilica Solatio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2017 ($20; retail $50)
Origin:
Chianti
Classico DOCG
UGA
Subzone: Panzano in Chianti
Varietals:
85%
Sangiovese; 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Production/Tasting
Notes: 18 months aging in French oak barriques; 12 months
in glass-lined concrete vats; 6 months bottle aging before release; organic
grapes; concentrated; "dense matrix of tannins"; blackberry, black
currant, plum, tobacco flavors; lingering finish. (94 points, Wine Spectator; 92 points Wine Advocate)
Food
Pairing: grilled steak or lamb
Alcohol:
14%
Factoids
about Chianti Classico
· The
Classico region between Florence and Siena was defined in 1306 by the Lega del
Chianti.
· The
Gallo Nero (black rooster) was selected by the Chianti League as its symbol in
1384.
· In
1938, the association known as the Comissionaria Industria Fiaschi for the
manufacture of fiaschi (straw-wrapped bottles) is created in Empoli. Fiaschi
are not permitted for riserva or gran selezione selections.
· Chianti
earns DOC status in 1967, and DOCG status in 1984.
· In
2014, the Consorzio Vino Classico introduces the gran selezione category, the highest quality from estate-grown
grapes for Chianti Classico wines.
· UGAs
(Unita' Geografiche Aggiuntive) are approved by the Consorzio Vino Classico in
2021. Currently, there are 11 such
subzones.
· There
are 3 quality levels within the DOCG: Gran Selezione (5%), Riserva (38%) and
Annata (57%). Aging requirements are 30 months, 24 months and 12 months,
respectively. Minimum Sangiovese percentages are 90, 80 and 80, respectively.
· 47
different varietals (all red) may comprise up to 20% of the blend.
· Sangiovese
is the most widely planted grape in Italy, mostly in Tuscany
· Sangiovese comes from the Latin saguis Jovis, meaning "blood of Jove". Other monikers include: Brunello, Prugnolo Gentile, Niellucio, Sangioveto, Morellino.
For more information on Chianti Classico, please see the following pictograms from the October 21, 2022 issue of the Wine Spectator:
