Rosés have proliferated in recent years such that virtually any red varietal is likely being made into pink wine somewhere in the world. Not only have the grapes diversified in the wine production, but also the styles and the regions of origin. In my most recent class, we sampled wines from a variety of producers - well-established vintners and less familiar ones - and countries, including the New and Old Worlds. We compared rosés vinified from traditional varietals and those from less common, perhaps unexpected grapes.
All wines were purchased at Pennsylvania Wine and Spirits stores, mostly at the 11th and Chestnut location. The 20th and Market shop also has an excellent selection.
Jean-Luc Colombo Cape Bleue Rosé 2021 ($14 + tax)
Classification: Provence (France) Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP)
Production/Tasting
Notes: Dry, but with
deceptively sweet notes; fresh, aromatic, fruity bouquet with spicy notes; complex flavors of fresh raspberries,
cherries; hint of black olive; elegant finish with touch of spice.
(90 points, Wine Enthusiast)
Food
pairings: fish (fresh coho salmon, for example),
poultry, vegetarian fare; also great as an apéritif
Alcohol:
12.5 %
Bieler Pere & Fils Sabine 2021 ($14 + tax)
Origin: Coteaux d'Aix en Provence AOC
Varietal:
33% Grenache; 26% Syrah; 14% Cabernet Sauvignon; 19% Cinsault; 9% Rolle
Production/Tasting
Notes: Fruit contracted from growers since 2005 in higher
elevation vineyards in hills around Aix-en-Provence; nitrogen coverage
following harvest to avoid oxygen contact; balance of delicate wild raspberry,
white peach, herbs de Provence and lively acidity. (90 points, Vinous)
Food
Pairing: fish
(fresh coho salmon, for example), poultry, vegetarian fare; also great as an apéritif
Alcohol:12.5%
Château de Trinquevedel Tavel 2021 ($22 + tax)
Origin: Tavel
Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC)
Varietal: 60%
Grenache, 13% Clairette, 13% Syrah, 10% Cinsault, 3% Mourvedre, 1%
Bourboulence
Production/Tasting
Notes: Cold skin maceration for 12-48 hours in cement
tank; direct press; 20 day alcoholic fermentation in cement tanks; aged in
enamel-lined, stainless steel tanks for 6-9 months; no malolactic fermentation;
pale garnet in color; abundantly
perfumed with blossoms and watermelon; zesty blackberry and black fruit flavors
backed by deep, penetrating undertones of crushed stone and spice. (93 points, Wine Enthusiast)
Food
pairing: Salmon gravelax; osso-buco; veal with olives; white
meat; grilled fish; spicy dishes; Asian cuisine; sweet and sour dishes.
Alcohol: 13.5%
Domaine des Carteresses Tavel 2021 ($14 + tax, Chairman's Select)
Origin:
Tavel
AOC
Varietals:
50%
Grenache; 15% Mourvedre; 13% Clairette; 12% Picpoul; 10% Syrah
Production/Tasting
Notes: Deep ruby-hued; intoxicating notes of candied
cherries and violets; medium-bodied and brimming with juicy blackberry and
black cherry flavors; elegant; boldly structured; lingering finish with streaks
of charred herb and smoke. (92 points, Wine
Enthusiast)
Food Pairings: Salmon gravelax;
osso-buco; veal with olives; white meat; grilled fish; spicy dishes;
bouillabaise; Asian cuisine; sweet and sour dishes.
Alcohol:
13.5%
Buttonwood Grove Rosé 2021 ($22 + tax)
Varietal:
100%
Cabernet Franc
Origin:
Finger Lakes, New York
Production/Tasting
Notes: Hand harvested; 12-hour skin contact before
pressing; on lees for one week before fermentation (stabulation); subtle floral
aromas accompanied by distinctive strawberry and raspberry notes; strawberry
and mint on the palate; bright acidity and light body; body.
Food
Pairing: Light appetizers; fresh green salad.
Alcohol:
11.5%
Amisfield Pinot Noir Rosé 2022 ($18 + tax)
Varietal:
100%
Pinot Noir
Classification:
Central Otago, New Zealand
Production/Tasting
Notes: Hand harvested; cold soaked for 2-8 hours before
pressing; cool fermentation; fine lees; nose exudes floral, rose water and red
berry aromatics; juicy watermelon combined with fresh pomegranate on the
palate; refreshing dry finish.
Alcohol: 13%
Clement et Florian Berthier Sancerre Pinot Noir Rosé ($28 + tax)
Origin: Sancerre
(Loire) Appellation d'Origine Protégée
Varietal:
100%
Pinot Noir
Production/Tasting
Notes: Pale salmon-colored; mineral-tinged strawberry,
tangerine and honeysuckle scents with spicy touch; juicy and exacting on the
palate, offering refreshing orange zest and red berry flavors deepening and
spreading out gradually on the back half; concentrated, lively; strong,
persistent, red fruit-driven finish
Food
Pairing: Quiche; charcuterie
Alcohol: 13.5%
G.D. Vajra Rosabella Vino Rosato 2021 ($20+tax)
Origin:
Barolo,
Piedmont, Italy
Varietals:
90%
Nebbiolo; 10% Dolcetto and Barbera
Production/Tasting
Notes: Saignée method with short skin contact; short time
aging in stainless steel tanks; no malolactic fermentation; Heady, floral and
fruity caromatics (rose, hibiscus, pomegranate, rhubarb, strawberry); bright
and juicy palate incorporating red cherries, raspberries, rhubarb, hint of
strawberry; thread of stony minerality; bright acidity; long fnish.
Food
Pairing: Pizza; pasta with light sauce; grilled fish
Alcohol:
12.5%
Bandol La Bastide Blanche 2021 ($25 + tax)
Varietals: Mourvèdre; Grenache; Cinsault
Classification: Appellation Bandol Contrôlée (Provence)
Production/Tasting
Notes: Organic; aromas of strawberry cream, pomegranate,
blood orange with floral and spicy accents; silky, refined palate with delicate
but distinct flavors of melon and peach, lavender; light to medium in body but
with texture and character of surprising weight and substance; long, floal
fnish (92 points; Vinous)
Food
Pairing: Bouillabaisse
Alcohol:
13%
Pfaffl
Rosé vom Haus 2022 ($16 + tax)
Origin:
Niedereosterreich
(Austria)
Varietal:
Zweigelt;
St. Laurent
Production/Tasting
Notes: Certified Sustainable winery; 36-hour maceration
before low-pressure pneumatic press; fermentation and storage in wooden barrels
before bottling; vine age between 19 and 29 years; aromas of raspberries,
strawberries with a touch of spice on the nose; deep, complex red fruit flavors
with spicy notes on the palate and finish.
Food
Pairing: light poultry; fish; aperitif; sorbet
Alcohol:
13%
Factoids
about Rosés
· Production
of rosé worldwide has increased substantially in the last decade from 35,000
cases in 2017 to 85,000 cases in 2020.
· Traditionally,
rosé has been made by the saignée method
wherein the pale wine is run off vats of red wine after a brief fermentation
when the color is still light pink.
These days higher quality rosé is produced as an end in itself focusing
on select vineyards and vines which are cultivated, harvested and vinified
uniquely for the pink juice.
· Whereas
the majority of rosé produced in the world follows the model of the Provence
style in terms of hue, body and taste profile, rosé is currently being made from
virtually all manner of red varietals offering a richer, fleshier and more
varied gustatory experience.
· Grenache,
Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Tempranillo and Pinot Noir are the most typical red
varietals used to produce rosé. White
grapes, such as Clairette, are sometimes used in the red blend to balance
texture, body and taste.
· The
Tavel appellation in Southern France
by law produces only rosé.
· King
Louis XIV was a big fan of Tavel rosé and no doubt contributed to its renown.
· According
to a recent feature in the Wine Spectator,
these five foods are particularly suited for rosé:
1.
Artichokes (Tavel)
2.
Asparagus (Provence)
3.
Eggs (Italian rosato from Etna or d'Abruzzo)
4.
Jamon (Spanish rosados)
5.
Bouillabaisse (Bandol, France)
For more on cooking with rosé, please see the
following article from VinePair which includes a recipe for steamed clams with rosé:
And for further recommended rosés, also check out VinePair's list of Best Rosés in 2023:
