Wine Tasting: Focus on Zinfandel

 In the wine world, Zinfandel is almost synonymous with California. Yet in the seemingly endless wine-growing regions of the Golden State, this dark-skinned grape has a myriad of expressions depending on the particular vintner and terroir. Whereas the wine first came to national prominence as a sweet pink blush in the 1970s, catering to the less than discriminating palates of the American consumer, over time, as tastes became more sophisticated, dry red Zinfandels of higher quality began to emerge such that today they can fetch premium prices among the cognoscenti. Confirmed by DNA analysis in the late 1990s to be identical to Italy's Primitivo, the grape first migrated from Europe in 19th century, finding great success in California's Napa and Sonoma counties. In my most recent tasting class, we took a deep dive into some of California's quality Zins, plus a comparison with a Primitivo from the varietal's Old World precursor.

        

Cline Zinfandel Ancient Vines Contra Costa County 2020

              

Origin: Contra County, California

Varietals: 100% Zinfandel

Tasting Notes: Fermented in temperature-controlled open top concrete tanks; after racking, aged in American oak for 15 months; fruit-forward raspberry and spicy cinnamon flavors.  (88 points, Wine Spectator)

Food  Pairing: slow-cooked barbecued pork

Alcohol: 14.5%

 

Ancient Peaks Zinfandel 2018

        

Origin: Santa Margarita AVA, Paso Robles, California

Varietal: 100% Zinfandel

Production/Tasting Notes: Diverse soil types include rocky alluvium, shale, volcanic, granite; round, juicy flavors of cherry, raspberry, wild berry with notes of peppery spice.  (88 points, Wine Spectator)

Food pairing: wood-fired pizza, smoked chicken, lasagna, tri-tip steak

Alcohol:  15%

 

Pedroncelli Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Mother Clone 2019

        

Origin:  Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California

Varietals: 86% Zinfandel; 14% Petit Verdot

Production/Tasting Notes: After destemming, cold soak for 48 hours, followed by fermentation with selected yeast; daily pumpovers and fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks with delestage regimes; 12 months aging in American oak barrels, 30% new oak; aromas of ripe red berry with notes of cinnamon and white pepper; jammy flavors of cherry and berry enhanced by hints of vanilla, licorice and baking spice; round tannins, lively finish. (89 points, Wine Spectator)

Food Pairing: braised ribs

Alcohol:15.5%

 

BottroMagno Primitivo 2020

            

Origin: Puglia (Murgia) IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta), Italy

Varietals: 100% Primitivo

Production/Tasting Notes: Soils of calcareous Clay-loam and gravel; vines planted in 1975; 1,980 feet elevation; stainless steel tank fermentation; pumpover maceration;  12 months aging in stainless steel tanks; 6 month bottle aging before release; aromas of black cherry and baking spices with undertones of mint and tobacco; smooth and velvety on the palate with balanced acidity; long, appealing finish.           

Food  Pairings: barbeque; demi-glaces; duck a l'orange; slow-braised beef

Alcohol: 14%

 

Sextant Central Coast Zinfandel 2018

        

Origin: Chalk Knoll Vineyard in San Ardo sub AVA of Monterey County, California

Varietals: 75% Zinfandel; 25% Syrah and Petite Sirah

Production/Tasting Notes:  Brambly boysenberry and black cardamom on the nose; rich, full tannins impart texture and weight to the wine, balanced by bright acidity; dark fruit flavors of black cherry, plum, and wild fig on the palate; luscious finish with notes of sweet vanilla and clove.                  

Food Pairing:

Alcohol:  14.9 %

 

Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma Country 2020

            

Origin : Sonoma County

Varietal: 86% Zinfandel; 10% Petite Sirah; 2% Alicante Bouschet; 2% Mixed Reds

Production/Tasting Notes: Blend comprised of vineyards ranging from Sonoma Valley, Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley and Dry Creek, 55% estate grown, 45% purchased from long-standing growers; fermented separately in small batches, then blended; 65% pumpover fermentation in closed top stainless steel;  7-10 days fermentation; malolactic fermentation; 10 months aging in 10% American oak; 85% neutral French and American oak barrel; intense aromas of currant and plum accompanied by savory notes of black olive, anise and allspice; briary black raspberry on the palate supported by supple, lively tannins and a powerful, lingering finish. (92 points, Wine Spectator)

Food Pairings: short ribs; braised pork belly; gnocchi gorgonzola

Alcohol: 15%

 

Notes on Zinfandel vs. Primitivo

For many years there has been a debate about the origin of Zinfandel, and whether indeed it is the same grape as the Primitivo grown in Italy.  Through DNA analysis by a researcher at UC Davis, it has been confirmed that they do, in fact, share the same genetic profile.  The difference in style of the wine then has to do with terroir and the production techniques of the wine maker.  There is still, however, the question of the how the grape first came to California and what was its origins.  It is known that Primitivo in Italy arrived from Croatia where it assumed several different names, including Tribidrag and Crljenak Kastelanski.  Whether Zinfandel came from Croatia or Italy may never be definitively answered, but there's no doubt that California has claimed it as one of its own and it has become almost synonymous with the Golden State. 

And just to add another mystery to its origin, the etymology of the name "Zinfandel" remains unknown.  So whenever you lift a class of Zin, give a nod to that first anonymous wine grower who put it on the California map and enjoy the enduring enigma of this delightful wine.