As a follow-up to the Burgundy wine dinner I reported on last summer (see my post of August 25 https://phillywineguy.blogspot.com/2021/08/wine-dinner-la-bourguignonne.html), a small group of wine-loving friends gathered on a recent Sunday evening to delight in some of the best Bordeaux has to offer in sparkling, white and red wines accompanied by mouth-watering hors d'oeuvres, entrées and dessert. (Even as the omicron wave has ebbed, we took the precaution of testing prior the dinner.)
To start off the evening, the first host popped open a bottle of Crémant de Bordeaux, which was perhaps the best value wine of the offerings at about $22, demonstrating that one does not have to break the bank to enjoy the world-renowned reputation of this region.
The Croix de Roche Crémant, Rosé de Bordeaux NV is a blend of 40% Malbec, 40% Merlot, and 5% each of the other red varietals that are permitted by law in the vinification of Bordeaux wines - Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Carmenère. Pink salmon hued with aromas of red currant and berries, the palate is crisp and fresh, offering hints of white peach and apple cider and strawberry with a lingering finish of minerality. Certified organic, this sparkler spends 6 months in Saint Emilion barrels, then is further aged for 36 months on its thin lees. As I often point out, the crémants (French sparkling wines produced outside of Champagne) are budget-wise alternatives of dependable quality to their higher-priced cousins, and this one was no exception.
Up next was perhaps the most-celebrated white Bordeaux from Pessac Leognan in the Graves appellation of the Left Bank, Château Cabonnieux, a blend of 65% Sauvignon Blanc and 35% Semillon.
Aged 10 months in wooden casks (25% new oak), this grand cru classé exudes aromas of intense citrus fruit with a distinctive note of quinine, and on the palate, the rounded mouth feel is full of viscous white, candied fruit supplemented by cask aging which allows for extra cellaring time in the bottle. As an aficionado of Sauvignon Blanc, I must point out that this Bordeaux style differs notably from those of other regions such as the Loire Valley, New Zealand and California in that it is more full bodied, denser, more viscous, and, with the barrel-aging, is suited for extra cellaring. Furthermore, it is more of "food wine", best appreciated in conjunction with seafood, liver pate, white meat, cheeses and fruit desserts. At our table, the host regaled us lobster-stuffed endive, petit gougères and a cheese platter of Roquefort and aged Welsh cheddar.
After a delightful array of appetizers and amuse-bouche paired with the bubbly and Carbonnieux, we migrated down the road nearby to the house of our next host to savor the Bordeaux reds along with an elegant and beautifully prepared entrée of braised short-ribs, haricots verts and potato purée. (Apparently, I was so taken by the presentation and my appetite that I forgot to document the visual for which I apologize!)
The first red that we sampled was a 2016 Chateau Giscours, which is a Grand Cru Classé (Troisième cru or 3rd growth) from the Margaux appellation on the Left Bank.
A blend of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, along with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, Giscours is emblematic of the classic Margaux style in harmonizing elegance, bouquet and class. Exuding lush black fruit married with new oak flavors, this complex wine continues to release layers of concentrated aromas and flavors in an exquisite balance of power and vitality. The Château itself has a 600 year history going back to when it was a defensive tower overlooking the marshlands of the Médoc at the time. Wine production began on the estate in the 16th century. Personally speaking, although I'm drawn to all manner of the Bordeaux styles, Margaux has a special place in my palate archive and library of senses, epitomizing elegance and class. At about $92 a bottle, this is a splurge worth indulging in to experience the beauty and power of this classic.
Next on the Bordeaux "carte à vins", was a 2017 No. 3 d' Angélus, the third label of the Château Angélus Grand Vin, which attained Premier Grand Cru Classé "A" status in 2012. Typical of Right Bank reds, Merlot is the predominant grape at 85%, supplemented with Cabernet Franc.
Aged in one to three-year-old barrels, this ruby-tinted cuvée offers up aromas of ripe red currant, red berry and plum with hints of graphite and subtle floral notes. Although lighter in intensity and density than Cabernet Sauvignon-drive Left Bank reds, the Angélus is just as expansive and layered, balancing acidity and fine-grained tannins. (Students of my classes may recall the adage I often refer to as the mark of a well-balanced wine: FATA-Fruit, Acidity, Tannin, Alcohol which is beautifully exemplified in this wine.) If you're a fan of Merlot, which is regaining its reputation as a world class wine after being maligned in the aftermath of the 2004 film Sideways, the Angelus a classic example of the power and prestige of this noble grape.
This family-run Château also dates back to the 16th century and is currently managed by Hubert Bouard de la Forest and his daughter Stéphane, a graduate of the Faculté d'Oenologie in Bordeaux, who represents the 8th generation. The estate's symbol and namesake refer to the angelus peal, or call to prayer, which tolls from the three Saint-Emilion churches overlooking the vineyards.
Our next wine was also from the Right Bank and Merlot-based - 2016 Chateau Vieux Chevrol from the Lalande de Pomerol appellation.
Blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, this organically farmed wine is aged in 600 liter casks (10% new oak) after being fermented with natural yeast and uses no filtration. In 1925, the Lalande de Pomerol appellation was separated off by decree from the Pomerol designation. As such, although this marks a loss of cachet of the more prestigious parent designation, it does usually result in more affordable pricing with high quality wines - the Chevrol was a very reasonable $29 per bottle.
Darkly perfumed with notes of cassis, violet, leather, plum and blackberry, subtle, medium-grain tannins combine with moderate acidity to pair well with beef, lamb or game. If you're on the fence about investing in a Merlot, a Lalande-de-Pomerol such as the Chateau Vieux Chavrol represents a very approachable initiation into the delights the Right Bank flagship grape.
Back to the other side of the river, our last featured red was from the prestigous Pauillac appellation, home of several of the top Grand Vins de Bordeaux, such as Lafite and Mouton-Rothschild. Indeed, although our budget certainly would not allow such stratospheric aspirations, the tiny, 1-hectare estate of Château Chantecler is surrounded by the aforementioned, world-renowned Châteaux.
One of the last independent producers left in the Pauillac, Chantecler produces only a few hundred cases of the wine which is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc from 45+year old vines. Lush, silky, powerfully structured and exuding captivating perfumes of concentrated, dark fruits, Chantecler is primed for aging and developing for many more years, but was amply appreciated in its current state by our circle of friends and is representative of the ultimate expression of Pauillac's Premier Cru (first growth) terroir at a fraction of the price - upwards of $1,000 versus $95. Because Bordeaux is such a large, high-quality wine-growing region, despite the eye-popping prices that the top wines can fetch on the open market, there are plenty of options for more down-to-earth pricing that often present equivalent or near-equivalent tasting experiences, certainly less than $100, and even at $40 or less. See the following excerpts for recommendations from the Wine Spectator special value wines from the Côtes de Bordeaux:
and the Côtes de Castillon :
A typical blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc produced from grapes concentrated by the magic of pourriture noble (noble rot), intoxicating aromas of pear, apricot, peach, honey and orange alternate together on a palate of viscous, lush sweetness that complement the fruity, succulent pastries. (Sauternes also pairs well with bleu cheese and foie gras, if you're so inclined.) Such was a the pièce de résistance that topped off the evening featuring Bordeaux libations that have long been standard bearers of the ultimate in wine culture.
Post-script: all wines, except for the Sauternes, were purchased at the Corkscrew Wine Shop in Princeton, New Jersey.
