There are over 300 grape varietals grown in Italy that are made into wine. You may be familiar with at least a handful of the more popular ones, such as Sangiovese, Pinot Grigio, Moscato and Nebbiolo. However, with so many others that are lesser known, yet just as worthy, if not more, it behooves the wine aficionado to make the extra effort to seek them out for a broader appreciation and understanding of what Italy has to offer.
In my latest class, we sampled several of these "off the beaten path" wines from the northernmost region, Piedmont, all the way down to Sicily. Styles ranged from light, crisp and fruity to dark, complex and full-bodied. So no matter your particular tastes, you can be assured there's something that will fit your palate, and at a reasonable price point.
One caveat is that although I was able to find all these wines in Pennsylvania State Stores, except for the Grignolino which I purchased at Moore Brothers in Pennsauken, New Jersey, I did have to travel to many different locations since supplies varied quite a bit from store to store. It's always a good idea, therefore, to call ahead of time to make sure what you're looking for is in stock as the search function on the state website is not always up to date. Also, these wines are often Chairman's Select, so when you see them, grab 'em right away because you never know if or when they will come back.
Roberto
Sarotto Virgilio Gavi 2020 ($11)
Origin:
Denominazione
di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) Gavi
Varietals:
100%
Cortese
Tasting
Notes: Expressive aromas of acacia, floral scents, green
apples, Bosc pear, ripe lemon; apricot; dry, crisp acidity; refreshing palate
with elegant, fruity character; long finish. (Reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc?)
Food Pairing: light
appetizers; fish, white meats
Alcohol:
12%
La
Segreta Grillo 2019 ($13)
Origin:
Denominazione
di Origine (DOC) Sicilia (Sicily)
Varietal:
100% Grillo
Production/Tasting
Notes: Hand-harvested; fermentation at 59 degrees;
following fermentation, maturation on the lees; delicate aromas of citrus
blossoms, notes of white peaches, grapefruit, seabreeze; mineral; ash; fresh,
smooth on the palate; medium body; tangy acidity. (92 points, James Sucking)
Food
pairing: aperitif; grilled
white meats; fish; seafood; hors d'oeuvres; vegetarian dishes
Alcohol: 12.5%
Terredora
di Paolo Corte di Giso Irpinia
Falanghina 2020 ($17)
Origin:
Irpinia Falanghina DOC
Varietals:
100% Falanghina
Production/Tasting
Notes: High altitude (600 meters) cultivation; cold maceration on the skins; fermented in stainless
steel tanks at cool temperatures; aged on its lees in stainless steel tanks;
rich, intense bouquet of fruity aromas, apple, pineapple, quince, pear; fresh,
clean palate, vibrant acidity; long,
flowery finish.
Food
Pairing: hors d'oeuvres; cold buffet; fish dishes; buffalo
mozzarella; fresh cheeses
Alcohol:12.5%
Gianni
Doglia Grignolino d'Asti 2020 ($17)
Origin: Gignolino d'Asti DOC
Varietals:
100%
Grignolino
Production/Tasting
Notes: Organically farmed vineyards; calcareous soils;
hand-harvested; gentle press; maceration of 2-3 days; no skin contact during
fermentation; nose of strawberry, clove, roses, white pepper; fresh red fruits
and spices on the palate with soft tannins.
Food
Pairings: roast
poultry; grilled chicken; turkey sausage; braised rabbit; pasta puttanesca;
pepperoni pizza
Alcohol:
13%
Torre
Mora Cauru Etna Rosso 2019 ($13)
Origin: Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily)
Varietals:
85% Nerello Mascalese, 15% Nerello
Cappuccio
Production/Tasting
Notes: Organic
grapes; lightly oaked; fresh, fruity; aromas of wild berries, blue flowers,
hint of spice; lithe tannins on the palate; juicy strawberry, blood orange,
wild herbs; lingering finish. (91 points, Wine
Enthusiast)
Food
Pairing: Wild mushroom and eggplant; pasta with red clams
sauce
Alcohol: 14.5 %
Goretti Montefalco Sagrantino 2015 ($18; quoted as $40)
Origin : Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG (Umbria)
Varietal:
100%
Sagrantino
Production/Tasting Notes: Hand harvested; aged 14-18 months in barriques; 30 months maturation in total; limestone-clay soil; concentrated, rich, spicy; aromas of dark, ripe red fruit, underbrush, prune, mocha; rounded, full-bodied; dried cherry, raisin, licorice, tobacco on the palate; well-structured with tightly-knit, gripping tannins. (91 points, Wine Enthusiast) Food Pairings: pasta dishes with intense tomato sauce, roasted or grilled meats or fish; spicy chicken, beef, lamb, game or cheeses. Alcohol: 14.5%
Notes
on Grape Varietals
Cortese
Primary white varietal associated with the Gavi
region of southeast Piedmont. Noted for
its bracing acidity, with crisp, lime, herbal and grassy aromatic notes and
flavors of apple, peach and honeydew.
Historically, dates back to the 17th and long considered Piedmont's
white varietal. Also found in the Veneto
region where it's typically blended with Trebbiano and Garganega.
Grillo
Primary grape in Marsala wine. Vinified as both a single varietal and
blend. Light, fresh wine with nutty,
fruit-driven flavors, including lemon and apple. May have originated in Sicily, and reputed to
be a favorite of Julius Caesar. A
contender for the quintessential Italian table white: light, easy-drinking and
good value.
Falanghina
Ancient grape of the Campania region in southern
Italy. Said to be the grape variety
behind Falernian, the famous wine of Roman Antiquity. May be of Greek
origin. Thrives in the porous volcanic
soils around Mt. Vesuvius. Main component of the Falerno del Massico and Sannio
DOC white wines. Can have a slight pine scent, noted for its citrus-blossom
aromas, particularly bitter orange, and apple and pear flavors on the palate
with spicy or mineral notes. Often blended
with other indigenous Italian varietals.
Grignolino
Pale red wine of the Monferrato hills in the
Piedmont. The name is derived from the Piedmontese dialectal term grignolo meaning "pip". Naturally high in tannins and acidity. A local curiosity overshadowed by Nebbiolo
and Barbera. Two DOC regions devoted to
this variety: Grignolino d'Asti and
Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese.
Nerello
Mascalese
Highly regarded, dark-skinned variety mostly closely
associated with the volcanic soils around Mt. Etna in Sicily, aka
"Nebbiolo of the South". Perfume reminiscent of Barolo and Burgundy.
Noted for producing taut, fresh wines with fruity, herbaceous flavors,
excellent minerality and earthy nuance.
Most commonly blended with Nerello
Cappuccio. Takes its name from the
Mascali plain between Mt. Etnan and the coast.
Nerello refers to the black skin of the grape. Planted in the some of
the highest elevations in Europe - up to 1000 meters (3280 feet).
Sagrantino
Deeply red varietal grown mainly in Umbria region of
central Italy. One of the most tannic of Italian grapes and as such
demonstrates great affinity for oak aging (a minimum of 12 months in oak, 37
months total). Dark, dense wine with black cherry and ripe blackberry flavor
profiles, under laid with spicy, earthy secondary characteristics. Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG is the highest
expression of the single variety.
Other Italian Varietals To Seek Out
Reds
Gaglioppo - soft red from Calabria
Refosco - dark-skinned, high acid grape with grassy, violet aromas from Friuli-Venezia-Giulia (northeast Italy)
Schioppettino - deep-colored, medium-bodied wine from Friuli-Venezia-Giulia (a favorite of mine when I can find it!)
Groppello - medium-bodied, bitter almond red from Lake Garda region
Teroldego - deeply colored, intensely fruity red from Trentino region
Whites
Arneis - recently renascent, revived grape from Piedmont gaining traction in US market; floral-scented, delicate aromas belie fuller body and abundant flavors. (Skip the Pinot Grigio, and indulge your palate!)
Pecorino - dry, minerally white from Le Marche (Marches)
Garganega - main white grape of Soave wines from the Veneto
Grechetto - two different varietals, from Todi and Orvieto, sometimes blended together; light-bodied, highly acidic
