Wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon (Deep Southern France)

In years past, the Languedoc region, southwest of Marseille bordering on Spain, was known primarily as the source for "plonk," cheap bulk wine of little distinction. One source notes that, in the old days, workers would consume up to 5 bottles or more a day of the cheap, lower alcohol vin ordinaire.  However, responding to a more discriminating, well-informed consumer, this region has seen a remarkable improvement in the quality of wine in the past decade or two. In fact, I am led to believe, following the tasting classes I just completed on this region, that the best deals for QPR (quality to price ratio) among French wines these days emanate from the Languedoc-Roussillon.  

In the three separate classes I conducted on this region, we sampled both whites and reds - 100% varietals and blends - from several different Appellations and IGPs.  Among the stand-outs were the Château de Paraza (certainly one of the best wines I've ever tasted at the  $10 price point), the Bila-Haut from Michel Chapoutier (another outstanding deal if you get it at WineWorks in New Jersey), and the Maury Sec, which brought it all home, so to speak, with a near perfect, harmoniously balanced blend of three of the main grapes of the region - Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan.  

Among the whites, the Picpoul de Pinet was a delightful discovery for most tasters.  For a crisp, fruity yet dry, light-bodied white with a slight mineral undertone that goes well with shellfish, it's hard to beat this wine in the tall, slender green bottle.  If you're looking for something with a little more body and complexity, Château Saint Roch does a very nice Rhone style blend (Grenache Blanc, Marsanne) at a fraction of the cost of a white Château Neuf du Pape.  

You may have to make a little extra effort to seek out these wines, but you will be well-rewarded  - à votre santé!

Picpoul de Pinet, Domaine Guillaume Cabrol 2015  ($13+ WineWorks, NJ)


                                 

Appellation : Coteaux du Languedoc AOC (AOP)*

Varietal : 100%  Picpoul (Piquepoul) de Pinet

Production/Tasting Notes : Family-run estate ; vines for this cuvée grow on a hillside at 250 meters above sea level in ar ed, stony, marl-limestone soil; sustainable viticulture; floral nose blending citrus and acacia flowers ; crisp, fresh on the palate with hints of grapefruit.

Food Pairings : Shellfish, oysters ; fresh-grilled fish

Alcohol : 13%

Picpoul de Pinet, Château Font-Mars 2015  ($11+  WineWorks)

                  
                                

Appellation : Picpoul de Pinet AOP

Varietal : 100% Picpoul de Pinet

Production/Tasting Notes : Clayey, chalky soil ; de-stemming; cold pellicular maceration, pneumatic pressing, racking of the must and fermentation at low temperature (15-17°C) for 20 days with daily control of specific gravities; fining and filtration before bottling; floral notes of roses, followed by aromas of pineapple, lychee and white peaches.

Food Pairings : shellfish, seafood, aperitif

Alcohol : 12.5%

Château Saint Roche Vieilles Vignes Blanc, 2012  ($14+  WineWorks)

                         

Appellation : Côtes du Roussillon AOC (AOP)

Varietals: Grenache Blanc, Marsanne

Production/Tasting Notes: Chalky clay, black schistes; hand-harvested; dry grown (non-irrigated); 50+ year-old vines; aged in concrete tanks; practicing organic; bouquet of carmelized, honeyed grapefruit; white currants; assorted citrus; crisp, dry, medium-bodied

Food Pairings: Grilled fish, seafood; white meats; salad niçoise

Alcohol: 13%

Château Viranel « Tradition » Saint-Chinian Blanc 2014  ($18+ PA)

                            

Appellation : Saint-Chinian AOC

Varietals : Grenache Blanc (60%), Vermentino (Rolle) (20%), Roussanne (15%), Bourboulenc (5%)

Production/Tasting Notes : Sustainable farming, traditional vinification over lees for 3 months with batonnage (stirring) ; 15% vinified in new barrels ;  hand-harvested ; fruity, fresh, delicate nose dominated by citrus, white flowers and citrus ; long, minerally finish

Food Pairings : Aperitif, shellfish, fish, Dublin bay prawns fried with anis, roast monkfish with candied lemons, green asparagus with almond butter, grilled kingprawns, caramelised veal sweetbreads, veal casserole, chicken supreme, grilled red mullet, chicken in tarragon jelly, salmon fillet, pike with beurre blanc, roast turbot, trout mousse, scallop raviole, sweet pepper terrine, comté, picodons and other little goats' cheeses.

And now, en français:

Langoustines sautées à l’anis, rôti de lotte au citron confit, asperges vertes au beurre d’amande, gambas grillées, ris de veau caramélisés, blanquette de veau, suprême de poulet, rougets grillés, poule en gelée à l’estragon, darne de saumon, brochet au beurre blanc, turbot roti, mousseline de truite, ravioles de Saint-Jacques, terrine de poivrons, comté, picodons et autres petits chèvres...et bien d’autres accords selon votre imagination et vos talents culinaires !Tartare de St-Jacques à l'huile d'olive

Alcohol : 13.5%

Laurent Miquel « Nord Sud » Viognier 2013 ($15+  PA)

                            

Appellation : Pays d’Oc IGP**

Varietal : 100% Viognier

Production/Tasting Notes : Grapes planted in blocks with North-South orientation ; partially fermented in French oak barrels for 3 months ; fragrant of honeysuckle ; flavors of apricot and pear.

Food pairings : grilled seafood ; Asian cuisine ; aperitif

Alcohol : 13.5%

“Les Traverses de Fontanès” Rouge 2015  ($13+  PA)

                         

 Appellation : Vin de Pays d’Oc

Varietal : 100%  Cabernet Sauvignon

Production/Tasting Notes : Hand-harvested; all fruit is de- stemmed before grapes are pressed; 48-hour cold maceration takes place before fermentation; natural yeast fermentation, in stainless steel; malolactic fermentation; Kermit Lynch import
Alcohol: 13.5%

Les Vignes de Bila-Haut, Michel Chapoutier 2015  ($17.50, Total Wine, DE; $12+ WineWorks)

              

Appellation: Côtes du Roussillon Villages AOC

Varietals: Syrah, Grenache, Carignan

Production/Tasting Notes: Grown on plots composed of gneiss and schist; hand-harvested; entirely destemmed; 2-4 weeks maceration; aged in vats; aromas of black cherry; flavors of blackberry, cassis, plum, garrigue; firm tannins; thick, unctuous, luxuriously textured; lingering finish with hints of olive and bay leaf (90 pts. Wine Spectator; 93 pts Robert Parker)

Food Pairing: beef, Mediterranean food

Alcohol: 14.5%

La Cuvée Mythique 2014  ($15, Total Wine, DE)


                     

Appellation: Pays d’Oc IGP**

Varietals: Syrah (34%), Carignan (30%), Grenache (24%), Mourvèdre (12%)

Production/Tasting Notes: Blend of micro-cuvées from 12 selected growers; aged in small oak barrels for 8 months; earthy, peppery scents; notes of blackberry and spice; flavors of truffle, cassis, vanilla; nicely rounded, balanced, harmonious; complex, silky finish

Food pairings: steak, duck, chicken brochettes; hearty stews

Alcohol: 13.5%          

Maury Sec, Domaine Cabirau 2014  ($19+  PA)

                

Appellation: Maury Sec AOP

Varietals: Grenache (60%), Syrah (28%), Carignan (12%)

Production/Tasting Notes:Manually harvested from 60 year-old Grenache vines and a mix of  old vines and newly planted Carignan and Syrah; the Grenache was unoaked; the Syrah and Carignan underwent malolactic fermentation and 5 months in 500 L demi-muids.

   “Bursts with plum, ripe blackberry and cherry fruit flavors, woven with herbs, licorice, spice and mineral accents. Juicy acidity … lingering finish, supported by grippy, integrated tannins. " Wine Spectator, 90 points

“Black raspberry, cassis, toasted bread, crushed rock and candied licorice-liked aromas and flavors” Robert Parker, 91-93 points

Alcohol: 14.5%

Château de Paraza, Cuvée Speciale, Minervois 2013  ($10+  WineWorks)

                                     

Appellation : Minervois AOP

Varietals: Syrah (40%),  Grenache noir (40%),  Mourvèdre (20%)
Production/Tasting Notes: Épandage fluviatile datant du pliocène.

La fermentation est lancée après une courte macération de chacun des cépages; puis cuvaison de 15 jours accompagnée d’un pigeage ou d’un remontage quotidien. Fermentation à température contrôlée entre 26°et 30°. Assemblage final après dégustation. Garde: 3 – 10 ans

Cherry, raspberry compote notes; red licorice undertones; juicy acidity; medium-bodied; floral, mineral notes on crisp finish. ( 90 Points, Wine Spectator)

Food Pairings: soft cheese, Marengo veal, beef stew with sweet potatoes

Alcohol: 13.5%

Château d’Oupia Minervois 2013  ($12+  WineWorks)

                   

Appellation: Minervois AOC

Varietals: Carignan (50%), Syrah (30%), Grenache (20%)

Production/Tasting Notes: Rocky, rocky clay and limestone soil; old vine (50+ years);  “…the ideal bistro wine. Dark, ruby-colored, the wine is wonderfully clean and pure, with an exuberant personality, and gobs of rich, peppery, red and black fruit” –Robert Parker, “Best Buy”

Alcohol: 13.5%

Domaine LaFage “Tessellae” Carignan Vieilles Vignes 2014  ($13+  WineWorks)

                              

Appellation: Côtes Catalanes IGP

Varietal: 100% Carignan

Production/Tasting Notes: Schist soils, 70-year old vines; practicing organic;  hand harvested, destemmed, cold pre-fermentation maceration, fermented in concrete ;12 months in concrete vats (80%) and demi-muids (20%); black raspberry, black cherry fruit, licorice and dried spices; heady, full-bodied; lingering finish (92 points, Wine Advocate)

Alcohol: 14.5%

*AOC= Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée; AOP=Appellation d’Origine Protégée (these terms are equivalent, AOP being the more recent European Community designation)

**IGP=Indication Géographique Protégée (new EC designation being the equivalent of the original French designation “vin de pays”)

Factoids about the Languedoc-Roussillon Wine Region of Southern France

•       The  Languedoc is the largest winemaking region in the world with over 730,000 acres planted. Some of the more prominent appellations include Corbières, Minervois, Côtes du Roussillon-Villages, Coteaux du Languedoc, Limoux, Collioure, Pic Saint-Loup, Saint-Chinian
•             Banyuls and Muscat de St Jean de Minervois appellations produce dessert wines traditionally known as vins doux naturels (VDN)
•          Picpoul is known as the « Muscadet of the South »
•          Pays d’Oc -  largest Indication Geographique Protégé (IGP) of the Languedoc-Roussillon, formerly known as Vin de Pays d’Oc ; grows 56 different varietals
•          The most common varietals under vine include Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Mourvèdre for reds, and Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Picpoul,  Roussanne, Clairette and Bourboulenc for whites
•          The Maury appellation has traditionally been known for its vins doux naturels, but now produces quality sec (dry) reds like the one in this tasting class.  Look for "Maury sec" as the AOC/AOP.