Georgian Wine (and Food) Alert!

... and we're not talking the Peach State, but rather the former Soviet republic (and birthplace of Joseph Stalin).  As readers will remember from my previous post, in my last tasting class I featured a Georgian Saperavi wine that went over very well among the imbibers.  Now I'm pleased to report that in a twist of coincidental kizmet following the class by just a few days, Craig Laban, food critic for the Philadelphia Inquirer, reviewed a newly opened Georgian restaurant and bakery in Northeast Philadelphia which just so happens to be located down the street from a PA Wine and Spirits store that carries a fair selection of Georgian wines - which means you don't have to go over to Jersey to find a bottle of these Caucasian delights!  http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/georgian-bread-northeast-philly-craig-laban-restaurant-review-russian-cooking-20171124.html

Intrigued by the restaurant review, I couldn't pass up the opportunity to sample their food and delicious bread (!) when, by happenstance, I needed to pick up some merchandise at a nearby Best Buy.  And naturally, nor could I not visit the aforementioned PA Wine store to pick up a bottle of Saperavi to go along with the fare.

 

 I was not disappointed - indeed, it was an absolutely divine pairing of food and wine from a culture and region that deserves much greater recognition here in the New World.  I feasted on the adjuruli khachapuri bread along with the ostri beef stew washed down with the Teliani Valley (dry) Saperavi red, which I actually preferred to the slightly sweet Saperavi featured in my class.  At the wine shop I also picked up a bottle of the Orgo Rkatsiteli white wine which is made in the style of the so-called "orange wines".

                                           

 I haven't sampled this white yet, but you can read Laban's take on it, as well as his notes on the Saperavi, at the following link: http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/georgian-wines-bustleton-avenue-northeast-philly-teliani-valley-saperavi-orgo-khaketi-20171124.html

Although it's a bit of trek out to the Northeast for those of us in Northwest Philadelphia (and you do have to suffer the indignities of the infamous Roosevelt Boulevard), you will be richly rewarded!  I can't wait to make the journey again myself and delve further into Georgian cuisine!
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Wine Tasting: Off the Beaten Track, Part Deux

In my most recent tasting classes, the wines featured originated from both nearby and far afield, although all were "off-the-beaten-track" in that even many of my most esteemed students were not aware of or had ever tasted wines from these regions.  Ever since I began conducting wine tasting classes, I've always been keen to expand people's palates and encourage imbibers to branch out from their old familiar, well-worn bottles of choice, especially since there is so much to discover in the world of wines.  I was delighted to introduce to the students wines from countries they had never seen or tasted, and was even more pleased by their very positive feedback.  It takes an extra effort to seek out these outliers, but with a little research which I'm happy to provide in this post, your diligence will be well rewarded.

As the first class was held on Halloween, I couldn't resist the marketing ploy of a Transylvanian wine that was not shy about cashing in on its mythological heritage.  At least two varietals from this producer are currently available in PA wine stores - Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, both retailing for about $9, so you shouldn't expect to actually turn into a werewolf after a couple of swigs! The Cab is definitely the better of the two, whereas the Pinot, which we sampled in the second class a few weeks later, is rather thin, weak and watery with only the faintest hints of this noble grape - which is too bad since Romania has a long history of wine culture but has not succeeded in attracting quality modern winemakers, likely due to the unstable economy and political corruption. In any event, the Cab is enjoyable as a lark, and quaffable enough.

The rest of the line-up were definitely winners, with the possible exception of the McPherson "La Herencia" which didn't quite succeed in its homage to Spanish Riojas. On the other hand, its "Les Copains"  was a very fine rendition of  the Rhone-style blend at a very attractive price ($15).

Without a doubt, the real stand-out happened to be the local wine from an estate just outside Philadelphia (who'd've thunk, right?).  I'm talking about Karamoor Estate, of course.  We sampled the 2010 Meritage  in the first class, and the 2013 in the second.  If my palate memory serves, the 2013 vintage was even more rich, smooth, and luscious in mouthfeel, full of dark fruit flavors and silky tannins.  It has good aging potential.

The Lebanese wine, Les Bretèches, definitely benefited from extended breathing, developing more layered and complex flavors and aromas.  And the Moroccan Syrocco was an excellent tribute to the hefty Syrahs of the Northern Rhone, which is not surprising given that the winemaker is a Frenchman.  An excellent deal for about $16 at Wine Works in Cherry Hill.

And last, but not least, the Georgian Saperavi was a new discovery for all class attendees, and positive reviews were pretty much universal.  Saperavi, a native Georgian varietal, is perhaps the darkest of all red grapes, but don't let that mislead you - this particular wine was actually medium-bodied, low in alcohol and just slightly sweet with some residual sugar.  Its unique flavor profile is somewhere between Cab, Merlot, Zinfandel and Tannat.  Renditions of Saperavi do vary from very dry and quite tannic to semi-sweet and softer on the palate.  There is actually a Pennsylvania winery near Lewisberg, Fero,  http://www.ferovineyards.com/ which makes an excellent Saperavi on the drier side, but you might have to take a road trip out there to taste it since it's not widely available in stores. 

There you have it - our latest foray into some of the lesser known wine regions that deserve more attention and respect.  So gear up your palate and keep on tasting!



Karamoor Sauvignon Blanc 2015  ($19)

Tasting Notes: Tropical notes of pineapple and coconut with a hint of honeysuckle lead to a profile of Meyer lemon and flinty minerality; exhibits bright acidity with long, lingering finish; medium to full-bodied.

Alcohol: 13.5%


Werewolf Cabernet Sauvignon/Pinot Noir

                          

Appellation: Transylvania, Romania

Varietal: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon/100% Pinot Noir

Production/Tasting Notes: 

Alcohol: 13%

Karamoor Meritage 2010/2013 ($31 in PA Stores; discounts available at the winery)

                   

Appellation: Ft. Washington, Pennsylvania

Varietals: 40% Merlot, 30% Cabernet, 15% Cabernet Franc, 15% Petit Verdot

Production/Tasting Notes: Aged for 16 months in 65% French oak, 20% American oak, 15% Hungarian oak, of which 30% was new oak.  Plums, currants, and traces of dusty leather carry to opulent, dark fruit on a silky textured palate; well-managed tannins create the velvety mouthfeel and promising aging potential.

Alcohol: 13.5%

Les Bretèches Château Kefraya 2013  ($12 at Wine Works, NJ)

                        

Appellation :  Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Varietals: 32% Cinsault, 23% Tempranillo, 20% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Carignan, 6% Mourvedre

Production/Tasting Notes:  Spicy nose with notes of black currant and cherry; silky tannins; opulent red fruit flavors

Alcohol: 13.5%

McPherson “La Herencia” 2014 ($15 in PA)

                   

Appellation: West Texas

Varietals: 78% Tempranillo, 8% Grenache, 7% Mourvedre, 4% Carignan, 3% Syrah

Production/Tasting Notes: Skin contact for one month; 10 months aging in new and neutral French oak; juicy bramble fruit, tobacco leaf, and spice.

Food Pairing: Texas BBQ (what else??!!)

Alcohol: 13.9%

McPherson “Les Copains” 2014  ($15 in PA)

  

Appellation: West Texas

Varietals: 34% Mourvèdre, 32% Cinsault, 14% Carignan, 10% Syrah, 10% Grenache

Production/Tasting Notes: Skin contact for 3 weeks; 10 months aging in French oak; bright acidity, wild strawberry, cherry, and herbal spice. 

Food Pairing: Steak, pork chop

Alcohol: 13.8%

Syrocco  Thalvin (Alain Graillot) Domaine des Ouleb Thaled 2013  ($16 at Wine Works, NJ)

                      

Appellation: Zenata Morocco

Varietal: 100% Syrah

Production/Tasting Notes: Organic farming; average 25-year old vines; barrel-aged; complex aromatics: plenty of ripe purple black fruits and dried red cherry followed by hints of sandalwood, herbs, and spice; long, dry finish.

Syrocco is produced by legendary vigneron Alain Graillot. He stumbled upon these vineyards and the Thalvin winery while bicycling in the Zenata region of Morocco between Casablanca and Rabat. This gorgeous area is an organic dream, with cool winds blowing off the Atlantic and no polluting industries whatsoever. The Thalvin winery has been around since the 1920’s, with Alain forming a partnership with them to provide Syrah vines for his own wine. Alain crafts this as a fruit-forward Moroccan red, yet it is made in an Old- World style with modern extraction.

Alcohol: 13.5%

Marani Pirosmani 2015  ($11 at Wine Works, NJ)

               

Appellation :  Kakheti, Georgia (Republic of)

Varietal: 100%  Saperavi

Production/Tasting Notes: Intense ruby color with a violet hue; on the nose, notes of ripe cherries, blackberry, black currant with hints of prunes; soft and spicy on the palate; medium-bodied; long, well-balanced finish.

Grapes are hand-picked at the optimum of their maturity. Soft de-stemming and crushing is followed by fermentation at controlled temperature (28°C) in stainless steel tanks. Wine is fermented using the cultural yeast strains. Skin and cap management is performed by délestage and remontage. When the fermenting juice reaches optimum sugar/acidity balance, fermentation is stopped by cooling, in order to retain the natural sweetness and freshness of the wine.

Alcohol: 12.5%

History of Georgian Wines 

During archaeological digs, seeds of the cultivated grape varietal "vitis vinifera sativa" dating back 7 - 6 thousand years BC, and 3 - 4 thousand year old massive clay wine fermenting amphoras, “Kvevri” have been uncovered from ancient settlements in modern Georgia, suggesting that Georgian wine culture is one of the oldest in the world. Many etymologists even consider the modern generic word “wine” to be derived from the ancient Georgian word “gvino”.  Currently, there are over 500 authentic Georgian grape varietals, 38 of which are used for commercial wine production in Georgia today.

Château Kefraya

Located in the West Bekaa Valley, the large estate of Château Kefraya has been the Bustros family’s property for generations. The castle was built starting 1946 on an artificial hill used by the Romans centuries ago to observe their troop movements. Founder and visionary Michel de Bustros undertook massive work to plant Château Kefraya’s vineyards on those magnificent hillsides. The first vines were planted in 1951 and in 1979 - despite the Lebanese civil war (1975-1990) - Château Kefraya started producing its own wine with its own grapes grown in its own vineyard and vinified in its own cellar.

In the early 80’s, “Les Coteaux de Kefraya” 1982 and 1983 win the winery’s first international medals and Château Kefraya started exporting its wines to France. In 1997, American wine critic Robert Parker awarded the 1996 Comte de M 91 points, qualifying it as “an amazing accomplishment in Lebanon”.  Today, Château Kefraya is present in more than 40 countries over the five continents.

The vineyard spreads over 300 hectares of terraced slopes, 1000 meters above the Mediterranean Sea, on the foothills of Mount Barouk in the Bekaa Valley.

Clay-limestone, clay-chalk as well as sandy and gravelly soils compose a real mosaic of terroirs. The vines enjoy an exceptional sun exposure with no irrigation. They are mainly trellised with a planting density of 4000 vines per hectare and an average yield limited to 35 hectoliters per hectare.

In addition to the diversity of soil, Château Kefraya uses a wide and exciting range of grape varieties in its blends, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Chardonnay and Viognier as well as more unusual varieties such as Carménère, Marselan and Muscat à Petits Grains.

A sustainable wine-growing policy allows the vines to flourish, while respecting the terroir’s expression. Significant variations in temperatures between day and night ensure a perfect ripening of the grapes and optimal harvest conditions.

The Karamoor Estate

Nick and Athena Karabots have called Karamoor Farm home since the early 1970s.  Both are first generation Greeks  who have a deep love for their family, philanthropy, and Karamoor Farm. In the mid-seventies, the Karabotses bought Brookside Farm and eventually the adjacent Oxmoore Estate, as well as a few other pieces of property.  The Karabotses combined the properties and renamed them as Karamoor Farm, which is a combination of the Karabotses last name and the second half of Oxmoore (there is also a loose translation to the Greek "hara mou", meaning "my joy", which also applies).  Karamoor's land had been farmed for hundreds of years (documented prior to the days of William Penn) and the Karabotses continued that tradition, growing all types of crops, primarily hays and grains for farm animals.

In 2003, Nick and Athena decided that they wanted to be able to enjoy the crops that grew on the land of their beloved home, and began the planning process to replace the existing crops with vineyards.  The symmetry and clean lines of vineyards were beautiful to them, and they had always had a great appreciation for wine.  They hired Lucie Morton, a top viticulturist in the United States, who did soil and exposure studies to decide what varietals could be planted and on what areas of the farm.  The plan was to plant all vinifera varieties (varieties derived from European grapes); by the Karabotses desire, they settled on Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Petit Verdot.  The first 12 acres went in the ground in 2006, followed by an additional 5 acres in 2008 and an additional 10 in 2013.

McPherson Cellars

The McPherson family has been a part of Texas grape growing and winemaking for over 40 years. McPherson Cellars was created to honor Winemaker Kim McPherson’s father Dr. Clinton “Doc” McPherson, a founder and pioneer of the modern Texas wine industry. In 1976 Doc, then a Chemistry Professor at Texas Tech University, and Bob Reed founded Llano Estacado Winery in Lubbock, one of the first post-Prohibition Texas wineries. Doc was one of the state's prime grape growers and was the first in Texas to plant Sangiovese in his Sagmor Vineyard.

Kim McPherson’s Texas wines have won over 450 medals in state, national and international wine competitions. He continues to play an innovative and dynamic role in the development of the Texas wine industry. Kim and Doc were inducted into the Who's Who in Food and Wine in Texas Hall of Fame in 1999. Kim converted the historic 1930s era Coca Cola bottling plant in downtown Lubbock into a winery and McPherson Cellars opened in fall 2008.

Va La Vineyards (and Pennsylvania wines) - a Post-Script

In response to my last blog post on Va La and other Pennsylvania wineries, a reader brought up the issue of pricing for the better wines produced in the state.  It's an important point, and one that I feel the need to address.

It is quite true that the price points for the best PA wines are not easy on the budget, especially when compared to the PQR (price to quality ratio) that is available from the powerhouses of wine production, namely France, Italy, Spain (and California sometimes).  A lot of it has to do with the cost of production for limited quantities and high quality processing in areas that do not have the infrastructure and other benefits of a long history of wine production.  That being said, given that this is officially PA Wine Month, I wanted to highlight what is going on locally and let people explore on their own with some of my recommendations.  What is especially fun is visiting and enjoying the local wine in situ, as it were. Yes, it's not cheap, but I believe the overall experience is worth the extra $.

In keeping with PA Wine Month, here is some more information on locally produced wines and where you can find them.

In the following link, Craig Laban of the the Philadelphia Inquirer lists his favorite wineries in the greater Philadelphia area, including Va La and Penns Woods.

http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/philadelphia-suburbs-best-wineries-craig-laban.html

From a few years ago, Laban, in the next link, offers his take on Va La's La Prima Donna which I featured in my previous post. He's also a fan:  "I've not tasted a more complex and fascinating local wine, red, white or orange."

http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/20140420_Drink.html


Marnie Old, also of the Inquirer, explores the development of locally produced Cabernet Francs in this link:

http://www.philly.com/philly/food/pennsylvanias-cabernet-francs-are-coming-into-their-own-20171012.html

Finally, for a taste of local wines without having to leave the city, check out the wines now available at Jet Wine Bar on South Street (one of my favorite hangouts):

http://www.localwineevents.com/events/detail/698603/source-juice-email

Best Wine/Winery in Pennsylvania?

Not too long ago, the idea of a Pennsylvania fine wine seemed like an oxymoron - a contradiction in terms.  Over the years I'd tasted any number of locally produced wines, particularly from the Lehigh Valley, the Brandywine Valley and the Delaware watershed.  Although I liked the idea of supporting local wineries, I couldn't say that any of them were worth more than a passing tasting, and given the price points - well, let's say you're not paying for the quality, but rather the novelty of a local product.  Too often they came off as thin, vegetal, unbalanced, too acidic, too sweet (most sales of PA wines are for the sweet or fruit wines), and inevitably there was that distinct characteristic, especially among the reds,  I came to label as "Pennsylvania funk" which has nothing to do with R&B.  Something about the climate or terroir just did not lend itself to producing fine wines of character, complexity and depth.

Well, things have changed and continue to change.  A few years ago, I had the occasion to taste a number of wines produced at the Penns Woods Winery, off Route 202, near Chadds Ford.  I was pleasantly surprised to discover that at least a few had real potential for a place in my wine cellar. (More on Penns Woods in a later blog post.)  Then in 2016 I finally got around to attending the annual Wine and Jazz Festival at Longwood Gardens that features only wines produced in Pennsylvania.  (Again, more about this festival in a future post.)  It took some time to scope out the really decent wines, but persistence paid off.  Finally, this past Labor Day, a wine-loving friend and I motored down to a small winery just below Avondale near the Delaware state line in "deep southern" Chester County, and alas! I hit the pay dirt.  Those of you in the know may already have guessed or have already visited the estate of which I speak: Va La Vineyards.  http://www.valavineyards.com/

For some time, I had been aware of this somewhat esoteric and maverick winery, and it continued to peak my curiosity.  Indeed, over a year ago, I had already made an attempt to find and tour the winery, but time was short and daylight was waning, and so I was obliged to put it off for another day.  When I saw on their website  that there would be live jazz over the Labor Day weekend, I immediately made plans for a leisurely visit, including wine tasting, picnicking and enjoying the music - a perfect combination!




To put it bluntly, the wines pretty much blew me away!  All of Va La wines are field blends, meaning that the different varietals are grown in the same vineyards, harvested, vinified and then blended to together in varying proportions according to the winemaker's taste and expertise. (See the end of this post for more background information on field blends as explained by Wine Spectator.)

Va La produces limited quantities of their field blends each year (typically 150- 200 cases each), and the precise blend will depend on the vintage year. Not all blends are produced each year.  So depending on when you go to visit, there may be different wines available.

Craig Laban, restaurant and wine critic of the Philadelphia Inquirer, had sung the praises of their Silk Rosé  ("a gorgeous oddity") in a piece earlier this summer,  http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/craig_laban/surprising-silk-is-a-pa-wine-true-to-its-name-20170721.html  but that was just the tip of the iceberg, so to speak.

Silk Rosato

"Silk has evolved into a gorgeous oddity - a wine with voluptuous fruit and what feels like
good structure, but one that also drinks seamlessly with virtually invisible edges."--- Craig LaBan Philadelphia Inquirer, July 21, 2017

Varietals: corvina veronese, barbera, carmine, petit verdot, nebbiolo,

Production Notes: slow, cold fermentation; free-run separation from skins (no pressing); barrel-aged 14 months.



For the tasting (at $20 per person, it includes at least 4 or 5 generous pours along with some excellent locally produced cheese pairings, and as such is a very good deal), we started off with their white wines, which, in fact, are more of the "orange" variety. That is, they are allowed to macerate with the skins for a substantial length of time as well rest on the lees for many months.

La Prima Donna 2013




Production Notes: Average vine age -18 years; each batch fermented sulle bucce (on the skins) for 16-47 days; 17 months aging sur lie; batches blended then aged in bottle for 10 months before release.

Varietals: Malvasia bianca; petit manseng; pinot grigio; tocai

Tasting Notes: lush, full-bodied with complex citrus and tropical fruit flavors; continues to develop as it breathes and opens up; intense minerality; long, persistent finish

Food pairings: fish, poultry, mushrooms


Zafferano 2015  (Vintage Number Nine)




This was a special cuvée with a limited release which we were fortunate to sample.

Varietals: four clones of pinot grigio, fiano, tocai, petit manseng

Production Notes: Fermented sulle bucce for 30 days, then aged 18 months sur lie.

Tasting Notes: Rich texture, full-bodied; notes of apple sauce, cinnamon, peaches; best enjoyed soon after purchase.

Food Pairings:  grilled poultry, pork, shellfish, mushrooms, chanterelles, veal



Now we move onto the reds:

Castana 2015 (Vintage Number Four)

Varietals: carmine, petit verdot, barbera, lagrein, sagrantino, teroldego

Production Notes: aged for 15 months in Pennsylvania and French oak barrels; vine age between 8 and 18 years.

Tasting Notes: Well-structured with dark fruit flavors; hints of smoke, coffee bean, black pepper, eucalyptus; best to decant 2 - 6 hours to allow flavors and tannins to be unleashed and open up to their full expression

Food Pairings: roasted meats; grilled vegetables and mushrooms; smoked and blackened dishes


And now, the piece de resistance, which I awarded 4 stars (out of 5) on my personal rating system:

Mahogany 2014 (Vintage Number 10)

Varietals: barbera, malvasia nera, charbono, petit verdot, carmine, teroldego, lagrein, sagrantino

Production Notes: Vine age 10-18 years; aged for 17 months in Burgundy and Pennsylvania barrels for 17 months, followed by 7 months in the bottle before release.



Tasting Notes: very dense, concentrated, opening up to reveal red and dark fruit flavors; velvety, lush texture with hints of bramble, earthiness, dark chocolate, blackberry, spice; powerful, full-bodied but not overbearing; well-balanced, harmonious.

Food Pairings: lamb, prime rib, wild game, red sauces, aged meats and cheeses.



So to sum up, if you're still in doubt about Pennsylvania wines, take a road trip down to Avondale and check it out. You will not be disappointed!


Field Blends:

"What makes a field blend: more than one grape variety planted together in the same vineyard. Field blends happen all over the world, though they're now rare. In the past, before folks fretted about varietals or clones, they just planted different grapes in their vineyard as an inexpensive (yet limiting) way to blend wines. All the grapes are harvested at the same time and fermented together—a true field blend doesn't separate by varietals at harvest; the "blend" is whatever Nature gives that vintage.

Modern winemakers generally prefer to plant and pick each variety separately, knowing that they don't always ripen evenly. Sometimes a winemaker will ferment multiple grapes together (a practice called co-fermentation), which invokes the spirit of field blends. But most winemakers blend different lots of wine together after the fermentation is finished to better control the process."

 - Wine Spectator

V is for Vino - 4th Annual Summer Back Porch Wine Bash!

On a beautiful early August evening in Germantown, friends gathered chez moi to enjoy another wine-centric party.  The theme this summer was "V is for Vino", meaning that guests should bring a wine that starts with the letter V.  The usual suspects included Verdejo from Spain, Vernaccia from Italy (the only exact duplicate making an appearance), Vermentino from Sardinia, and Verdicchio, yet another Italian.  Although my intention was that the grape varietal should begin with V, we allowed a few outliers in an expansion of the theme to include regions such as Valpolicella and Vinho Verde (both red and white).

There were two selections that stood out to me in that I'd never tasted them before, nor was I familiar with the white grape varietal.  They also happened to be my favorites of the lot.  Not surprisingly, both were Italian: the one white, from the Vespaiolo grape; the other red, from the Sforzato di Valtellina region.  See below for further descriptions of these two outstanding wines.

Many thanks to all for your contributions both in libation and food and I look forward to seeing you all next year for another rendition of the Back Porch Wine Bash!  (Sorry I didn't get any people pictures as I was so busy trying to make sure things were running smoothly that it slipped my mind! Catch you next time!)




Classification: Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita)

Varietal: 100% Chiavennasca (local name for Nebbiolo)

Production Notes: Grapes partially dried naturally for 3 months, losing 30-35% of its weight, then crushed and vinified by traditional method and allowed to macerate for 12 days; after resting in stainless steel tanks, wine is placed in French oak casks for 20 months.

Tasting Notes: a well pronounced and complex ethereal perfume,

 with dominant spicy notes (clove, cinnamon, pepper) and with hints of plum jam;a dry, warm, savoury, austere and harmonious flavour with an elegant quite
persistent underlying taste of toasted hazelnut and licorice

 15% Alcohol

Classification: Breganze Vespaiolo DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata)

Varietal: 100% Vespaiolo

Production Notes:  first fermentation at a controlled temperature, between 14-16°C for about 2 months in steel tanks, followed by aging on the lees for about 4 months; after lees aging, racked off and bottled

Tasting Notes: Aromatic, vibrant acidity; notes of pink grapefruit, tangerine peel

Alcohol: 13.5%

Alsatian Wine Tasting & Dinner

Inspired by, and on the heels of, my recent trip to Alsace this past spring in May (see my previous post), I led a wine tasting with friends the other weekend that featured wines from Alsace, including a few I had brought back from France.  As most of these wines are white and light in alcohol, they fit in perfectly with a warm summer evening by the shore accompanied by an array of hors d'oeuvres, spicy shrimp or other shellfish, asparagus, flatbread, salad, cheeses, and that most Alsatian of all dishes - Choucroute Garnie.  Now if you do a search online for this sauerkraut specialty, you'll find all sorts of recipes that call for hours of marinating, roasting, cooking and deconstructing all kinds of wurst, hamhocks, baby back ribs, boiled ham, kielbasa, bacon etc., but it's easy enough to do a simplified version with just some pre-cooked bratwurst and bacon, along with the sauerkraut.                                  
Here's the recipe that I simplified for my own concoction: http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/choucroute-garnie-102386 

There is even a seafood version which I enjoyed in Strasbourg (again see my previous post).  It may sound like a heavy dish for summertime, but the choucroute, enhanced by an ample dose of Pinot Blanc or Riesling and allowed to simmer with the meat), makes a very tasty and digestible dish.

Unfortunately,, the choucroute is missing from this picture, but you can find many online.

Now back to the wines: although all the wines were highly appreciated and enjoyed by the guests, the real standouts were the Sylvaner (not the easiest to find here in the States, but worth the trouble), the Pinot Blanc, which I used for the Choucroute, and the Pinot Noir, which may be the unsung find among Alsatian wines and the only red varietal grown in the region.

Although prices for Alsatian wines in the US are not quite the bargain they are in the land of origin, they still represent very good value and usually come in less than $20 a bottle.  All wines listed here, except for the Sylvaner and the Riesling, I purchased at the PA State Store or at WineWorks in NJ.

If you have not yet experienced the pleasure of Alsatian wines, you have much to look forward to and discover!  A votre santé!



Zeyssolff  Cuvée Z Sylvaner L’Oublié 2016


           

Classification: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée  (Gertwiller)

Varietal: 100% Sylvaner

Production/Tasting Notes:  35 year old vines from Gertwiller and Heilgestein vineyards, terroir especially favorable to Sylvaner; muted fruit flavors with a touch of smoke and earth scent; light to medium bodied

Sylvaner is a crossing of Traminer with a little-known variety called Osterreichisch Weiss. The crossing is thought to have occurred somewhere in eastern Austria, although today very little Silvaner is found anywhere in Austria. The variety made its way to Germany in the 17th Century, and from there to Alsace, where it became particularly popular after World War II. The variety has a couple of color mutations known as Roter Silvaner and Blauer Silvaner, although both are largely indistinguishable from Silvaner itself.
Food pairing: light appetizer and cold dishes; Alsatian onion tart; grilled asparagus with poached egg; seafood chowder
Alcohol: 12%


Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Blanc 2014


           

Classification: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée (Guebwillet)

Varietal: 100% Pinot Blanc

Production/Tasting Notes:  Pneumatic pressing, static racking. Fermentation in thermo-regulated tuns for one to four months. Maturing for seven months on fine lees.  The nose is frank, pleasant, open and racy; fruity scents: citrus fruit, lemon, floral scents, white flowers and a fine touch of spice, ginger. Opening up to reveal a fine, exotic character of pineapple and blood orange. Moderately rich, dense on the mouth. Long finish, 6-7 caudalies and a frank and persistent liveliness.

Food Pairings: Salad with langoustines; sushi; shrimp; sashimi

Alcohol: 12.5%


Willm Pinot Gris Reserve 2015

          

Classification: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée  (Eguisheim)

Varietal: 100% Pinot Gris

Production/Tasting Notes: Pale golden yellow; elegant nose, peach and apricots notes; candied fruit and honey; light, round, good structure, good persistence.

Food Pairings: fish with sauce; smoked salmon; duck magret

Alcohol: 13%


Domaine J.L. Schwartz Schieferberg Riesling 2014


          

Classification: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée  (Itterswiller)

Varietal: 100% Riesling

Production/Tasting Notes: Vivid, dry, racy, full-bodied but refined, delicately fruity, it offers a delicate bouquet with nuances sometimes mineral or floral and acquires in aging a "taste of petroleum" or "mineral fossil". (About 150 aromatic constituents are associated with it.)

Alcohol: 13%


Famille Hugel Gewurztraminer 2013

Please excuse the blurry image!

                




Classification: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée  (Riquewihr)

Varietal: 100% Gewurztraminer

Production/Tasting Notes: 2013 was a classic Alsace vintage of intense, pure, well balanced wines; The grapes are taken in small tubs to the presses, which are filled by gravity, without any pumping or other mechanical intervention.  After pressing, the must is decanted for a few hours, then fermented in temperature-controlled barrels or vats (at 18 to 24°C). The wine is racked just once, before natural clarification during the course of the winter. The following spring, the wine is lightly filtered just before bottling, and the bottles are then aged in our cellars until released for sale.

“The bouquet is frank and open, refined, elegant, perfectly aromatic and perfumed yet not exuberant.  All in all, this wine is bewitchingly expressive, yet still full of freshness.
Fresh pineapple, mango, passion fruit, white peach, ginger, rose, jasmine, mignonette, lily...

On the palate it is dry, slightly taut, juicily crunchy, soft, supple and nicely balanced. Its finish explodes with fruit and perfume, yet is not heavy... and it is perfectly capable of charming you into a second glass...” - Serge Dubs, World's Best Sommelier 1989

Food Pairings: an aperitif, with slightly spicy cuisine, Chinese, Moroccan or Indonesian, with lobster and crayfish tails, or with strong cheeses : munster, maroilles; smoked salmon and strong cheeses; white meat, veal, pork and game birds, pheasant, partridge.

Alcohol: 13%


Trimbach Pinot Noir Reserve 2013




Classification: Appellation Alsace Contrôlée  (Ribeauvillé)

Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir

Production/Tasting Notes: No barrel aging to preserve grapes’fruitiness ;  red fruit aromas and is supple, fruity and fresh on the palate;

Food Pairing: meats, smoked meats, pork, poultry, some cheeses

Alcohol: 12.5%


Notes on Wine Estates

The Willm Vineyard

The vineyard is in the Barr region in northern Alsace, shielded by the Vosges which protect it from most of the rain coming from the west and creating a very sunny micro-climate. Historical, The Barr vines are mentioned for the first time in an 8th century document from the Fulda Abbey in Germany.

The soils are for the most part granitic and clay-calcareous which confer freshness and finesse to the wines.

The vineyard practices integrated farming which means finding the perfect balance between the vines, the soils and the climate, respecting nature and the environment.

Famille Zeyssolff

Our presence in Alsace dates back to the 15th century. In 1574, two brothers ZEYSSOLFF, one lawyer and the other judge, received a family coat of arms for services rendered to the city of Strasbourg. In 1778, Jean-Daniel ZEYSSOLFF wine grower in Gertwiller founded the house ZEYSSOLFF. Since then, the tradition of vines and wines has been transmitted from father to son over ten generations. A consistency as remarkable as the quality of the wines of Alsace produced. A well-exposed estate spread over the terroirs of an interesting geological variety, allows to produce well-typed wines. The distinctions obtained regularly at different competitions testify to their value. All the grape varieties of Alsace are produced by the House ZEYSSOLFF and appreciated as much regionally as beyond its borders.

Domaines J.L. Schwartz

The estate, an independent winemaker created by Hélène and Justin in the 1960s, currently has 8.5 hectares of vines spread over 9 municipalities with a wide range of terroirs, making it possible to express the characteristics of the different Alsatian grape varieties entirely harvested by hand.

Famille Hugel

The first traces of the Hugel family in Alsace can be traced back to the XVth century.
Some two centuries later, Hans Ulrich Hugel settled in Riquewihr, which had been devastated by the terrible Thirty Years War. In 1639 he was made a freeman of the city and soon took charge of the very powerful Corporation of Winegrowers.  In 1672 his son built a fine house in the Rue des Cordiers, and over the doorway was carved the family crest which was the origin of the company’s logo still used today.
During the XVIIIth and XIXth centuries, the Hugel family gained an enviable reputation for their winegrowing skills and for the meticulous way in which they cultivated their vineyards.
 In 1902, Frédéric Emile Hugel left the old family property and established himself in premises in the centre of Riquewihr which still form the heart of the family business.
Alsace white wine among the finest in the world
Vines have been cultivated in Alsace for more than 2,000 years, and brought great prosperity to the region, particularly in the Middle Ages. Thanks to the nearby river Rhine, at that time the most important artery of communications in Europe, the wines of Alsace were exported to Holland, Belgium, Scandinavia and to England, where they were particularly appreciated.
Until the early XVIIth century, Alsace was the largest and most renowned wine producing region in the Germanic Holy Roman Empire. The Thirty Years War (1618 - 1648), the French Revolution (1789), the Napoleonic Wars and the Franco-Prussian War of 1870 caused the steady decline of the Alsace wine region. By the early XXth century, the ravages caused by insect pests and by cryptogamic diseases made the situation desperate.
After 1918, a handful of farsighted and courageous winegrowers, including Frédéric Emile Hugel, took steps to save the vineyards of Alsace. This veritable pioneer devoted his entire life to the promotion of high-quality wines from noble grape varieties. His son Jean continued this crusade. By his perseverance and hard work he proved that Alsace wines merited a place among the finest wines in the world.  His three sons, Georges, Jean and André, have strictly followed this same course, and they have obtained official recognition for Alsace late-harvest "Vendange Tardive" and "Sélection de Grains Nobles" wines.
The next generation is faithfully implementing the major principles it has inherited from its ancestors. A noble mission awaits Jean-Philippe, Marc and Etienne : to make Alsace wine the great white wine of the XXIst century.

Trimbach

The viticultural origin of the Trimbach Family dates back to 1626, when Jean Trimbach, who had come from Sainte Marie aux Mines, was recognised as a citizen of Riquewihr. From then on, the Trimbachs became renowned for their wine-growing.
Jean-Jacques Trimbach, born in Riquewihr on the 6th February 1633, and later his son Jean, born on the 18th March 1677, were successively mayor of the little village.
The next Jean-Jacques Trimbach, born in 1750, decided to become a master cooper – an activity which fitted in admirably with the viticultural vocation of the Family.
The Family tree continues with Jean-Louis Trimbach, born on the 12th of May 1783, whose son Jean-Frédéric, born on the 18th of June 1811 took an important position in what used to be called the wine « gourmetage » in the village of Hunawihr, well known for its excellent wines and especially for its Riesling. The transfer of his activities to Hunawihr dates back to the 1840′s. He was the mayor of the village for many years.
His oldest son, Frédéric Emile, born in Riquewihr on the 20th of December 1839, stepped into his shoes in Hunawihr. Frédéric Emile really developped the business on the lines of the present House of Trimbach. He gave the firm his two initials « F.E » which have been kept ever since.
Trimbach wine acquired true international acclaim in 1898 when Frédéric Emile Trimbach received the highest distinction at the International Wine Fair in Brussels.
To extend the business his son Frédéric Théodore, born in Hunawihr on the 5th of November 1875, transferred the Trimbach firm to the medieval town of Ribeauvillé soon after World War I. He was one of the founders of the wine-growers and merchants’ Association and one of the first promotors of Alsatian wine.
For almost four centuries, the Trimbach Family has been promoting Alsace and its History, its exceptional terroirs and fine wines. Maison Trimbach is still located in Ribeauvillé and still owned by the two grandsons of Frédéric Théodore, Bernard and Hubert, since their father’s untimely death in 1945.
Pierre and Jean, Bernard’s sons, the 12th generation, have joined the Firm in 1979 for Pierre and 1985 for Jean to work on the vinification for the first one and on the promotion of the wines for the second one.

Wining (and Dining) in Alsace, France

Travel affords the opportunity to delight in new experiences, cultures, languages and people, and, for oenophiles like me, there is the exciting prospect of discovering new wines that just aren't available in the usual circle of shops, restaurants and wine bars at home.  My recent travels to England, France and the Netherlands offered just that chance, and in particular, the region of Alsace where I booked a guided tour of some of the distinctive Maisons de Vin which typically specialize in Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner (for whites) and Pinot Noir (the only red varietal grown in the region).  In addition to these still table wines, quite a few Crémants d'Alsace are also produced here, and often include Chardonnay.  These sparkling wines offer a very worthy and much less expensive alternative to the highly touted Champagnes produced just  west of Alsace.  (Note to the savvy wine shopper: always check out the availability of Crémants before spending big bucks on the popular, but very expensive big name Champagnes - you know the ones we're talking about!)

But before we delve into the sparking wines, let's start at the beginning of our tour of  the Alsatian wine region which lies about an hour's drive to the southwest of Strasbourg, official seat of the European Parliament, near the Franco-German border.  Our first stop was at the Maison Zeyssolff http://zeyssolff.com/ in the village of Gertwiller.  (It seems that every little town or village in the Alsatian wine region comes straight of a fairy tale book - utterly charming, picturesque and impeccably maintained - the area yo-yoed back and forth under control of France and Germany over the centuries.  And they all have strange-sounding, virtually unpronounceable Germanic names which are oddly distinctive and unlike typical village names in Germany.  Native Alsatians have managed to wrap their tongues around these tongue-twisters, but I suspect the average French person would recoil at such an linguistic challenge.)

Zeyssolff produces several different series of wines, incorporating most of the usual varietals mentioned above.  In addition, there is a special cuvée called Klevener de Heiligenstein which obtained a unique denomination in 1997 and is made from the rare Savagnin rose (or Traminer) varietal.  Of golden hue, offering nuances of white flowers and white stone fruit, round on the palate with a pleasant acidity, it pairs well with white meats, terrines, tartes flambées and fish with cream sauce.










                               



The Cuvée Z series includes Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Sylvaner:

               


            


           

The next stop on our tour was at Domaine J.L.Schwartz  http://www.domaine-schwartz.com/ in the charming, picturesque village of Itterswiller.  Our tasting guide was the owner himself who started the business about 30 years. Beyond accommodating, he was downright solicitous in offering us a sample of pretty much every different wine he had available.  Never one to look a gift horse in the mouth, I did not hesitate to take advantage of the opportunity and so we proceeded to taste a whole panoply of wines - from sparkling rosés and bruts  (crémants) to Pinot Gris and Pinot Blancs; from Sylvaners to Grand Cru Rieslings to Vendanges Tardives (sweet dessert wines).







What follows then is a visual sampling of some of fine wines that Monsieur Schwartz graciously shared with us:

                                            


                                           

                                              

                                           

                                             



                                                  



                                                   
                                                 
                                            



Monsieur Schwartz's hospitality was well-rewarded as almost everyone in the group left with at least a few bottles to take back home.  Need I add that the prices of the wine are such a ridiculous bargain, that you'll find it hard not to stuff you bags full or bring along an extra suitcase to lug them back home!

Back on the road, we headed toward Ribeauvillé  (one of the few villages in the area with a French name) for lunch and another wine tour!  White asparagus  ("asperges" in French) were in season and lavishly spread on just about every dish on the menu. "Tarte flambée" or "Flammenkuche" is a regional speciality and pretty much de rigueur at mealtime.  Check this website for much more information on the region, its wine, cuisine and points of interest: http://www.ribeauville-riquewihr.com/en/discover/ribeauville.htm

Near the entrance to the main thoroughfare in Ribeauvillé is the Louis Sipp winery, where we were greeted by Madame Sipp who first led us into the caves to explain to us the vinification process. Afterwards we followed her to a private tasting room where she proceeded to give us an expert presentation (in fluent English, by the way) on a half-dozen or more her cuvées. http://sipp.com/

                                           







And now here are some of the wines we tasted at Louis Sipp:




















Last but not least on our tour of the Alsace wine region was perhaps the most famous of the myriad quaint villages - Riquewihr. And judging by the crowds on that absolutely perfect sunny and warm spring day, the word is out. It did happen to be a holiday weekend, and the German visitors from the other side of the Rhine were out in force.  No doubt they feel very much at home - with just a touch of French culture to add to the experience - what with the Germanic village names, the wood framed architecture and the similarity in cuisine.  Indeed, our last winery stop was at the Teutonically christened Dopff winery  http://www.dopff-au-moulin.fr/index.php where we indulged in their array of sparkling wines or  Crémants.  Truth be told, most of the group was well-sated with wine by this time, but I did my level best to at least take a sip of the many offerings.  But first, let's have a look at the village itself:
















And now onto the wines. Dopff offers quite a selection of sparkling wines, in addition to their still table wines.  Indeed, it was a Dopff family member who, after spending several years in the Champagne region, pioneered the production of sparkling wines in the Alsace in the early 20th century, which are known today by the name "Crémants d'Alsace".

        











Thus ends our winery tour of the Alsace, but you can be sure that we only touched the surface of what there is to explore.  Indeed, there are upwards of 200 wineries in the Alsace region so you have plenty to choose from if you ever make the trip which I highly recommend.  And one more note of encouragement, the wines are an amazing bargain, prices hovering around 10 Euros more or less. (The US dollar is close to parity with the Euro.)

I leave you with a picture of one of the great traditional Alsatian restaurants in Strasbourg, Zuem Strissel, http://www.strissel.fr/  where I dined on their specialty: Choucroute de la  Mer  (Seafood with Sauerkraut) washed down with a pichet of the house Pinot Blanc!