Viva Italia! - Italian Wine Dinner

At the most recent wine dinner among friends, we celebrated the wines of Italy from top to bottom, with a few in between.  There are so many different wine varietals and regions in Italy, it can make the head spin, so it's best to highlight just a sampling of the most distinctive and acclaimed wines, including whites and reds.  Mass-produced Italian wines can leave much to be desired, and typically are marketed to attract the widest customer base with little discrimination - I'm talking Pinot Grigio, Chianti (not Chianti Classico), Valpolicella, as well as other common varietals produced by big labels such as Bella Sera,  Bolla, etc.  This is a shame since often for about the same price there are so many other alternatives of a much higher quality with more interesting characteristics and deeper, more complex taste profiles.  And even for the higher end wines, it's definitely worth a splurge now and then to experience a truly exceptional wine.

So with this in mind, I chose a selection of appealing wines from several different regions in Italy that offer a range of styles, price points and traits, but just scratch the surface of what awaits the adventurous wine consumer.

We started off with a favorite white of mine which I featured in a previous post (12/20/14).  I especially recommend Verdicchio for getting out of the Pinot Grigio rut, and the price point is so ridiculously low - one of the best bargains around among the Italian wines - that you'd be foolish not to give it a whirl.  Indeed pretty much everyone was gobsmacked when I revealed the price - only $8 ! (plus tax).

The next white is one that's gaining ground among the wine cognoscenti and was rescued from obscurity a few decades ago, and appears on more and more restaurant wine lists.  Arneis, "little rascal" in the local dialect, demands attention to appreciate its elegant, sophisticated style - not one to knock back, but sip slowly during the course of meal, or even to contemplate as an aperitif.  It's somewhat reminiscent of the whites of the Southern Rhone, such as Roussane, Marsanne or White Grenache.

And speaking of Southern latitudes, we journeyed down to the volcanic area of Sicily for the first red, a blend of  Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, from the Etna region. This is just a delightful, flavorful wine, bursting with all sorts of fruit aromas, yet with a firm, medium body and juicy finish.  (Nero d'Avola is no doubt the most popular red coming out of Sicily, but the Nerello Mascalese is gaining ground and definitely deserves a place in your wine budget.)

Moving back up to Central Italy, it was time for the evening's "pièce de résistance", the ultimate in wines made from the Sangiovese grape.  I refer, of course, to the Brunello di Montalcino, long revered as one of the preeminent wines Italy.  This was an excellent bargain at $38 (regular $45) as most Brunellos are upwards of $50, and often much more. If you only know Sangiovese from Chianti, you are in for quite a revelation of what the grape is capable of from a different denominazione.

For our final wine of the evening, we moved to the most northern region to sample another highly acclaimed red.  Nebbiolo is the grand varietal of the Piedmont and is the basis for Barolos, Barbarescos, and Langhe wines.  Barbaresco can be regarded as a kind of kid brother of Barolo - from similar stock, but usually less costly, being aged for a shorter period of time. It exhibits many of the same distinctive qualities - concentrated dark fruits, truffle, licorice and rich tannins - yet comes off as softer, more approachable without sacrificing the rich flavors and firm body. 

1. Fattoria Laila Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (about $8, plus tax)

                                      

Varietal: 100% Verdicchio

Classification/Region: Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

Production/Tasting Notes: Bouquet of yellow spring flowers; stone fruit; creamy peach; citrus/lemon flavors; hint of sea salt, almond; crisp, refreshing acidity. (89 points, Wine Enthusiast)

Food pairings: grilled fish; seafood; salads; aperitif; calamari

13 % Alcohol

2. Il Falchetto Arneis 2013 ($18, plus tax)

                                           

Varietal: 100% Arneis

Classification: Langhe DOC (Piedmont)

Production/Tasting Notes: Terroir composed of sandy soil on left bank of Tanaro river;intense mineral and fruity notes;warm and fresh on the palate bolstered by good acidity

Food pairings: starters; seafood; sushi; cheese

13 % Alcohol

3. Le Sabbie Dell'Etna, Firriato 2013 ($16, plus tax)

                             

Varietal: Nerello Mascalese; Nerello Cappuccio

Classification: Etna Rosso DOC (Catania)

Production/Tasting Notes: Terroir – sandy loam of volcanic origin; 14 day fermentation; 6 months in durmast barriques; mineral notes with intense, clearly defined aromas of cassis, blueberries, plum jam, black cherries, licorice, pepper and dried violets; well- balanced on the palate, warm, rich, refined; long aromatic persistence with juicy finish. (89 pts. Robert Parker)

Food Pairings: Squid-ink pasta (pasta al nìvuro di sìccia); pigeon breasts in red wine sauce (blancs de pigeon au rouge); roasted squab with crisped almonds; wild mushroom and eggplant filo

14% Alcohol

4. Podere La Vigna Brunello di Montalcino 2010 ($38, reg. $45, plus tax)

                            

Varietal: 100% Sangiovese

Classification: Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

Production/Tasting Notes: Vinification of 18-20 days in stainless steel vats with multiple daily punching down; 2yrs aging in oak barrels; minimum 6 month bottle aging; sweet and savory notes combining cherry and plum fruit with licorice and saline elements, supported by burly tannins; concentrated, ripe fruit; lengthy finish. (94 pts. Wine Spectator)

Food Pairings: black truffle tagliata (grilled, thick-sliced beef)

14.5% Alcohol

5. Giribaldi Barbaresco 2006

                            

Varietals: 100% Nebbiolo

Classification: Barbaresco DOCG (Garantita)

Production/Tasting Notes: cherry, plum and tobacco aromas and flavors supported by dense tannins; lingering finish of spice and mineral. (93 pts. Wine Spectator)

Food Pairings: poulty, pork chops, veal chops, ravioli, stews; Gorgonzola cheese; spices: basil, oregano,chives, tarragon, thyme, fennel

14% Alcohol

Wine Notes on Italy

Piedmont

• Barolo & Barbaresco DOCGs are named after communes in respective regions
• DOCs Barbera, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo take the name of their dominant varietal
• Nebbiolo, the varietal of Barolo & Barbaresco, is known locally as Spanna
• Arneis, a white wine grape once nearly extinct, has made a big comeback in recent years and means “little rascal” in the local dialect, as it’s difficult to grow

Red Varietals of Sicily:

• NERO D’AVOLA- The second-most-planted variety in Sicily after Catarratto.

The wine typically has vivid blackberry smells. In the mouth, it has moderate to high alcohol, but its most outstanding characteristic is the high acidity that balances the otherwise soft texture.

• NERELLO MASCALESE- In English, this Latinate word means “little black one,”

The wine is pale cherry red, with aromas of flowers, particularly violets, red fruit, tobacco,and spices, and in the mouth it is lean, with moderate alcohol, high sourness, and moderate astringency. In appearance the wine is very close to Pinot Noir.

• FRAPPATO- The wines are pale cherry red and lightly structured, very spicy and floral,

and loaded with vivid cherry and pomegranate fruitiness