Thursday, June 19, 2014

Sauvignon Blanc: Part Deux - the Good, the Bad and the Really Good!

In my first post this year with particular wine recommendations (see January 4), I featured three very fine Sauvignon Blancs (SBs) at different price points, depending on the size your wallet or purse: Meridian, Joel Gott, and Cloudy Bay.  There are literally hundreds of SBs available in the marketplaces these days from around the world - New Zealand, Chile, California, France, Italy and so on -,  so the question is how do you choose and how do you know whether a particular wine will appeal to your palate.  In many cases it comes down to trial and error - more on my own error in just a moment - but one of my goals in this blog is to inform and make suggestions or recommendations so that you'll be less likely to spend (waste) your hard-earned dollar on a mediocre or even bad wine.

With this in mind, I continue my SB exploration and offer up some of my recent tastings of this noble varietal in all its glory (and occasional disappointments).

Let's start off with the "really good"!

Chalk Hill Sauvignon Blanc Estate 2011

From the very first whiff of this wine's bouquet, I could tell I was in for something exceptional.  Indeed, I can categorically state that this is one of the finest SBs I've had the pleasure of indulging in.  It's actually a blend of 3 SB grapes: 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 7% Sauvigon Gris, and 3% Sauvignon Musque.

The aroma is pungent with the typical citrusy, grapefruit notes, but goes well beyond that with all sorts of fruit sensations - pear, pineapple, lychee, quince - as well as floral and herbal scents. The palate then opens up with orchard fruit, spicy citrus and maybe a touch of mango.  This is a lush, elegant, full-bodied SB which is not surprising given that it's been aged in French oak for 10 months (which may add some vanilla notes as well) and has undergone regular batonnâge (stirring the lees). The finish is long, powerful and persistent, and at 14.8% alcohol (the highest octane SB I've come across), this potent wine is one that you definitely want to pair with food, in particular a meaty, fleshy, full-flavored fish (halibut, mahi- mahi, sea bass) or Asian fish preparations.  Its complexity, potency and full-flavored profile will enhance greatly your dining experience.

The best news is that it is currently available at PA wine store as a Chairman's Select for half its suggested retail price - $15.99. Check online for availability in your area (code 33257) and grab some fast!

www.finewineandgoodspirits.com/

http://www.chalkhill.com/





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Now let's move onto the bottom of the barrel, so to speak, where for the first time I will invoke my CAUTION: BAD WINE alert.  Although I may be overstating the case, there's no doubt that the following wine was the most disappointing I've experienced in many, many months.  The label was attractive and appealing, designed by an artist specially recruited by the winery, and the tasting notes on the shelf label led me to believe it would be an interesting, good quality SB.  At about $15 and hailing from Napa, how could I go wrong?  Well, think again.

The aroma, a little fruity and citrusy, was pleasant enough, although the color left much to be desired - so pale and indistinct it reminded me of slightly dirty dish water.  My first sip was such a let-down, I was almost ready to dump it down the drain right then and there (which I eventually did after a few glasses): sweet, bland, insipid, totally lacking in any of the crisp acidity usually associated with SBs and almost devoid of any finish.  Indeed, after quaffing sufficient quantity to confirm my initial impression with my meal, I was left with a dull buzz and none of the delightful lingering sensations one equates with a fine wine and good food.

Now perhaps some will disagree with my assessment - indeed, it received a fair to good rating in some wine publications - but there are so many fine SBs out there, that it's not worth taking the chance. Buyer Beware!
  
2012 Mason Sauvignon Blanc (Caution: Bad Wine!)



2012 Mason Sauvignon Blanc

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Whereas the Chalk Hill SB is a very lush, elegant, full-bodied wine which reflects a tasting profile tending towards the Chardonnay mode, the Justin Sauvignon Blanc, originating from Paso Robles along the Central Coast in California is classic New World style SB, featuring grapefruit and green apple aromas and that distinctive crisp acidity which makes the mouth pucker with delight. Fermented in 100% stainless steel tanks, It is a well-structured wine with mineral undertones that play against the array of fruit sensations such as white peach, lemon and lime with hints of lemongrass as well.  This is a great wine to enjoy nicely chilled in the warm summer months either with seafood - calamari, shrimp and other shell fish - or on its own as an aperitif to whet the appetite.  It's also rather strong in alcohol (14.5%), but I have to say that I really didn't notice any debilitating effects as I sampled a few glasses with a seafood salad.  It's very well-balanced in terms of fruit-acidity-alcohol and offers pure drinking pleasure to the SB lover.  Retailing at about $13, you'd be hard pressed to find a more delightful SB at this price point.  (By the way, Justin makes a range of mid to high level reds that are worth checking out and that I plan to write about in a future post.)

http://www.justinwine.com/

Justin Sauvignon Blanc 2012











Friday, June 6, 2014

Rosé Wine Tasting: Round 2

Our second rosé wine tasting took place this past Tuesday, June 3rd, and although the skies looked ominous throughout the day - and indeed there were some scattered showers in the area, including at the Unitarian Church - in the end, the weather gods cooperated and the skies cleared in time to set up the tasting "en plein air".  Despite some damp ground and a noticeably humid atmosphere, it was a pleasant evening to sip cool rosés in a bucolic setting.

The line-up this time included three different rosés  (see my tasting notes for these below) in exchange for the Sonoma Grenache, the Aldesheim Pinot Noir  and the Israeli Barbera that we sampled at the May 20th tasting.  The evening started off with three Provencal rosés, including the 2013 Miraval from the Jolie-Pitt estate, which just happened to be the cover story of the latest issue of the Wine Spectator:



http://www.winespectator.com/issue/show/date/2014-06-30

 Despite the frisson of imbibing a "movie-star wine," the general consensus was that it fell short of expectations, and the Whispering Angel  from  Chateau D'Esclans was again the clear favorite, followed by Jean-Luc Colombo's Cape Bleue whose quality/price ratio is hard to beat (about $13 a bottle).  Still, there's no doubt the Miraval is a good quality wine at a reasonable price - the suggested retail price is $30 but the wine is widely available in NJ and PA for about $23. For the record, I did sample the 2012 vintage last year and thought that this debut rosé hit the mark in terms of overall appeal - bouquet, structure, fruit and minerality, whereas the 2013 vintage didn't quite measure up.

The 100% Garnacha  rosé from Spain - Las Rocas de San Alejandro - was a winner for all the Garnacha/Grenache aficionados who might want something lighter and "chillable" for the summer.

And lastly, we sampled another 100% varietal - this one being a Vermentino Nero from the Liguria region in Italy.  Much darker in color than the typical Provencal rosé, the Mea Rosa is definitely on the fruitier side, from the lush aromatic bouquet down to the extended finish.

More and more red grape varietals are being fashioned into rosés, so that if there's particular red you're fond of, chances are you'll find it in a rosé: for example, even stalwart grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec are now available as rosés.  The summer is just beginning, so start sipping!


Miraval 2013

                                              
Chateau Miraval Cotes de Provence Rose, Provence, France

                  Varietals: Cinsault, Grenache, Rolle (Vermentino), Syrah

                  Classification: Appellation Côtes de Provence Contrôlée

                  Production/Tasting Notes: “Mis en bouteille par Jolie-Pitt & Perrin” (yes,                                Angelina & Brad); vinified in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats (95%) and      barrels  (5%); pale pink in color; pleasant floral nose of white flowers, soft roses, crushed strawberries and ripe cherries; round and soft on the palate; delicate structure that deepens on the palate; fresh summer red fruit:strawberries, wild raspberries, red currant; hint of lime;mineral notes with a slight saltiness and fresh acidity; savory herbal edge (91 points, Decanter; 89 points, Wine Spectator)

                   13% alcohol                             

 Las Rocas de San Alejandro 2013

                                  


Varietals: 100% Garnacha

Classification: Denominacion de Origen (DOC) Calatayud (Spain)

Production/Tasting Notes: From high altitude vineyards (3500 feet); fruit forward with aromas of raspberries and strawberries; bright red fruit flavors mingled with a hint of spice;full-bodied; long, fruity finish

Food pairings: Light, savory tapas
                
                  13.5 % Alcohol



“Mea Rosa” Rosato 2013  
                                                        
Region: Liguria de Levante (Ortonovo), Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT)

Varietal: 100% Vermentino Nero (an ancient autochthonous vine re-discovered and re-proposed after a long period of research and study by Paolo Bosoni and the vine experts)

Production/Tasting Notes: 36 hours cold maceration on the skins, fermentation at controlled temperature and refining in stainless steel vats; vivid deep pink color; bouquet of red fruit, wild strawberries with hint of spice; red fruit on the palate with mineral undertones

Food pairingsAntipasti; seafood dishes; mildly spicy dishes; also as an aperitif

12.5% Alcohol