Rosso di Montalcino Revisited

Soon after I posted a feature on this second label of the Montalcino wine region which produces the prestigious and renowned Brunello (see my January 8 post below), I came across this reassessment and re-tasting of Rosso di Montalcino by NY Times wine writer Eric Asimov and his panel of tasters.

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/02/19/dining/making-his-case-for-the-second-montalcino.html?ref=ericasimov

Like Mr. Asimov, whom I follow closely and usually find myself in synch with (I just bought a copy of his latest book entitled How to Love Wine; more on that later), I'm a big fan of Rosso as a moderately priced alternative to the often over-priced Brunello.  Although I haven't (yet) tasted any of the wines they review in the article, I look forward to seeking them out and will be sure to report on them.  The Rosso wines they taste range in price from $23 to $82, which is seriously moving into Brunello territory with respect to price points, though as a Kermit Lynch import, it is likely worth the big bucks.  However, as with the Rosso I reported on in the previous post, there are very decent Rossos to be enjoyed for less than $20 and represent a very good value.

Both Chianti and Rosso are made from the Sangiovese grape (as is the Brunello), but what distinguishes them is the expression of the grape which, no doubt, arises from the particular terroir in which it is cultivated and matured.  As Asimov points out,  the Montalcino  "tends to be richer and more concentrated than that grown in the Chianti zones. As a result, good Chiantis, in which sangiovese is the dominant rather than the sole grape, will generally be more graceful and finer textured than the Montalcino. The Montalcinos will be denser and more powerful; the best combine muscularity with elegance."

You may have a preference for one or the other, but again like Asimov, I enjoy both styles - the earthy, sweet & bitter aromas of Chianti, as well as the denser, more robust fruit expression of the Rosso di Montalcino.  Do let me know what you think!

SSSSS & FATAH

No, this is not a posting about snakes and a certain congressman from Philadelphia.  Rather, it's about a few mnemonic devices or acronyms that refer to how to go about tasting and assessing a wine.  Students from my classes may recall that I usually make a point of following the

Five S's of Tasting

1. See : Tilt the glass of wine against a white backdrop and take note of the color and transparency



2. Swirl: Gently swirl the glass (the larger the better) to release aromatic compounds in the wine (aerators are also very useful for speeding up the breathing process)



3. Sniff: Breathe in deeply, bringing the glass closer and closer to the nose to appreciate the intensity and complexity of the aromas



4. Sip: Allow the wine to coat the palate and assess the flavors and body of the wine



5. Savor: Consider the overall sensory effects of the wine: length, complexity, balance and finish



Credit for this particular step-wise process of appreciating wines in a tasting goes to Master of Wine Jennifer Simonetti-Bryan whose "Everyday Guides to Wines" are available on DVD through the Great Courses Series. http://www.thegreatcourses.com/tgc/professors/professor_detail.aspx?pid=391 

More on this series in a later post.

I always hasten to add when recommending this process that it has nothing to do with being "snooty" about wine-drinking.  Instead, it's all about appreciating and assessing wine for maximum enjoyment, especially for higher class wines.  If you're spending big bucks on particular wine, you are surely going to want  make the most of it!  Even for everyday wines, it can enhance the experience greatly.

FATAH

Fruit + Acidity + Tannins + Alcohol = Harmony


These are the essential elements that go into making a well-balanced (red) wine.  When all these elements are represented in proper measure, the result is a wine of great style, structure, and harmony. If you taste a wine that just doesn't seem right or is off, chances are that it's either lacking one of the elements or they show up in the wrong proportion.  For example, if a wine has a very high alcohol content, but doesn't have enough tannins or robust fruit aromas to stand up to the alcohol, it will likely feel too strong or overpowering and have the effect of an unpleasant intoxication.  Likewise, red wine with abundant fruit should have sufficient tannins and other acids to provide proper balance and structure.

White wines generally have little detectable tannin so instead you want to look for the proper amount of residual sugar that will balance out the acidity.  For example, a fine German Riesling with high acidity will taste crisp and dry even though it may contain higher levels of  residual than the average table wine.

Bullish on Barbera

I was debating in my mind what topic to write about in my next post; then last night I opened a bottle of wine that had been recommended to me by my colleague and fellow wine geek, Ian, and immediately I knew I had to report on this wine post-haste.  In my course on Piedmont wines a few years back, one of the wines I featured was a Barbera d'Alba, which has been a favorite of mine as a bright ruby red, fruity wine with tantalizing acidity usually available at very affordable price points. (Barbera is the grape varietal; the locale descriptor follows so that you will find a number of different Barberas from the Piedmont region.)  So when Ian mentioned a Barbera del Monferrato he'd picked up at a PA wine store, I knew I had to try it.  This particular Barbera comes from the Cantine Valpane winery and is imported by the highly esteemed wine merchant Kermit Lynch.  (More on him in a future post, but suffice it to say that you can hardly go wrong if you see his name on the wine label.) The family-owned wine estate is over 100 years old, was passed down over the generations and is currently run by Pietro Arditi, who employs natural techniques to produce his wines - no fining or filtration (so there will be some sediment in the bottle), indigenous yeasts, and sustainable farming practices.  The result is an exceptional wine at a moderate price bursting with fresh fruit aromas (cherry, blueberry with underlying earthy notes),  lively acidity, smooth, supple tannins and a luscious, round mouth-feel with a medium to long finish. At 14.5% alcohol, it's definitely on the more potent side, but the vibrancy and complexity balance out the high octane. This "Rosso Pietro" is aged in stainless steel and cement tanks only, so you get the full expression of the grape.  It is available for about $12 at the Girard Avenue Wine & Spirits shop (180 W. Girard Avenue) and also at the Franklin Mills location. Code: 000043193

 Cantine Valpane Barbera del Monferrato "Rosso Pietro" 2011







 



To read more about the winery's history and products, follow the link on Kermit Lynch's website:

http://kermitlynch.com/our_wines/cantine-valpane/