Wine Tasting: Italy Off the Beaten Track

 In my latest wine tasting class, we learned about and sampled several Italian varietals that are largely unknown to the average wine consumer.  These are wines that do take some extra diligence to obtain but are definitely worth the effort as they offer tasting profiles that differ notably from the most popular Italian wines such as Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Moscato and the like.

I have included notes on these little known varietals at the end of this post, including historical background and general tasting profiles. Many of these were brought back to life by forward thinking wine growers and producers who realized the value of giving rebirth to important traditional wines and enhancing the overall wine culture of Italy.

Most of these wines I obtained through wine.com with additional sources including PA Fine Wines & Spirits (Special Order) and Wine Works in Marlton, NJ.

Enjoy exploring these wines to expand to your tasting experience!

Cheers!

Umani Ronchi Pecorino Terre di Chieti Vellodoro 2024 ($17 + Tax; Wineworks, NJ)

Origin : Terre di Chieti IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica), Abruzzi

Varietal : 100% Pecorino

Production/Tasting Notes : Fermented in stainless steel for 10-15 days; 4 months aging in stainless steel on the lees.; no malolactic fermentation;  aromas of green apple, pear, lime, white flowers; notes of wet stone, mineral; medium-bodied, fresh, savory; lively acidity.

Food Pairing: Steamed fish with ginger; shellfish; fresh cheeses, especially pecorino; vegetarian dishes.

Alcohol: 12.5%

 

Villa Corniole Teroldego Rotaliano PietroMontis 2020 ($17 + Shipping & Taxes, PA Special Order)

Origin: Teroldego Rotaliano DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata)

Varietal: 100% Teroldego

Production/Tasting Notes: Hand harvested; fermentation and maceration on the skins for 8-15 days; aged in stainless steel with a small amount in barriques; intense, fruity nose with notes of raspberries, currants; soft tannins.

Food  Pairing: Lasagne; pasta ragu; risotto; lamb; game; beef; cured meats; medium to aged cheeses;mywine

Alcohol: 12.5%

 

Laura Aschero Rossesse 2024 ($30 + Shipping & Taxes; wine.com)

Origin: Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC

Varietal: 100% Rossesse

Tasting Notes: Hand harvested; 15-day maceration; stainless steel fermentation; 5 months aging in stainless steel, fiberglass tanks; fine lees aging for 30 days with batonnage; nose of dried rose, wild strawberry, blackberry, currant; strawberry, currant, cranberry and mineral flavors; taut tannins; bright, tangy; light tannins.

Food Pairing: Vegetable ravioli; stuffed cabbage; rabbit alla ligure; stewed stockfish (cod or hake)

Alcohol: 13%

 

Feudo Montoni Perricone Corre 2022 ($32 + Shipping & Taxes; wine.com)

Origin: Terre Siciliano Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) (Cammarata)

Varietals: 100% Perricone

Production/Tasting Notes: Certified organic; sandy, clayey soil; 40-year old vines; fermentation and 12 months aging in cement containers; 3 months in barrels; 6 months bottle aging; spontaneous malolactic fermentation; notes of prune, blueberry, black pepper interspersed with hints of cocoa, licorice; fresh, round, soft on the palate; bold tannins; polished. (92 points, Vinous; 90 points, Wine Spectator)

Food Pairing: Braised lamb ragu; eggplant parmagiana; pasta with Italian sausage, mushrooms and peas.

Alcohol: 13.5%

 

Ronchi di Cialla Schioppettino-RiNera 2023 ($27 + Shipping & Taxes; wine.com)

Origin: Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Cialla valley in commune of Prepotto, Udine)

Varietals: 100 % Schioppettino

Production/Tasting Notes: Maceration of 4-5 weeks; native yeasts; aging in French barriques for 14-18 months; further bottle aging for 30-36 months; average vine age – 50 years; aromas of red fruits, currants, blackberries, balsamic, undergrowth (sous-bois) and white pepper; flavorful, fruity sensation; well-balanced minerality; supporting tannins; silky balance; full bodied; elegant.

Food Pairing: Roasted red meats; free range poultry and game; mushroom-based dishes; truffled dishes; medium and hard cheeses.

Alcohol:  12%

 

Goretti Montefalco Sagrantino 2019 ($30 + Tax; PA Wine Store)

Origin : Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG (Umbria)

Varietal: 100% Sagrantino

Production/Tasting Notes:  Hand harvested; aged 14-18 months in barriques; 30 months maturation in total; limestone-clay soil; concentrated, rich, spicy; aromas of dark, ripe red fruit, underbrush, prune, mocha; rounded, full-bodied; dried cherry, raisin, licorice, tobacco on the palate; well-structured with tightly-knit, gripping tannins. (90 points, Wine Enthusiast)   

Food Pairings: pasta dishes with intense tomato sauce, roast and grilled meats and fish, excellent with spicy chicken, beef, lamb, game or cheeses.

 

Alcohol: 15.5%

 

Italian Varietals

Pecorino

The name is derived from the strong connection between sheep farming and agriculture and the presence of the variety in the areas of shepherds’ transhumance. Pecorino almost disappeared because of low productivity.  Umani Ronchi began producing Pecorino in 2005. Primarily grown in the Marches (le Marche) and Abruzzo, has been cultivated for hundreds of years but fell out of favor due to more productive grapes, most notably Trebbiano.

Rossesse

Also known as Rossesse di Dolceacqua, it is grown in the commune of Imperia within the Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOP/DOC.  DNA profiling indicates that it is identical to the Tibouren variety grown in Provence, France.  (There are also white varieties produced under the Rossesse label.)

Schioppettino

Cultivated since the Middle Ages, Schioppettino was almost completely destroyed during the phylloxera epidemic during the mid-1800s.  In the 1970s, the Ronchini di Cialla winery launched the rebirth of this varietal with 60 surviving vines, producing their first vintage in 1976.  Locally known as Ribolla Nera, Schioppettino wine is typically deeply colored, medium-bodied, has an aromatic nose and a spicy or peppery palate.  Most often rroduced as a dry wine, it is sometimes made into a sparkling spumante style. 

Perricone

Grown principally in higher altitude areas of northwestern Sicily, Perricone is highly tannic and acidic with characteristics of red berries, earth and herbs and is often toned down by blending with Nero d’Avola, but has the potential to produce beautifully aromatic single varietal wine of elegance and polish. It is also known as Tuccarino or Pignatello.  Hit hard by the phylloxera epidemic in the 1860s, it was largely replaced by Nero d’Avola which was considered higher quality.

Sagrantino

Associated with Umbria for centuries, Sagrantino is a dark, dense wine widely considered the most highly tannic of all Italian varietals with a fruit profile that ranges from black cherries to ripe blackberries with secondary spicy, earthy characteristics.  Due to its high tannins and its affinity for oak aging, it matures especially well. As such, local wine regulations call for a minimum aging of 37 months, at least 12 of which must be in oak barrels. Single varietals from the Montefalco DOCG are regarded as the preeminent expression of the grape.

Teroldogo

A deeply colored red wine grape, it is grown mostly in the mountainous Trentino wine region of  northern Italy. Intensely fruity, soft and needing little aging, it’s often blended to add color, but single varietals are becoming more common.  There is just one DOC for Teroldego wines – Teroldego Rotaliano where the plain soil is sandy and gravelly, widely regarded as the best site for the varietal.