Friday, February 28, 2025

Rediscovering and Reassessing a Memorable Wine - Virginia Petit Verdot

 One of the pleasures of sampling wines on a road trip is revisiting, or more precisely, re-tasting wines that you purchased at the winery much later to be reminded why you bought it in the first place.  I have  experienced such rediscoveries multiple times in recent weeks, the latest being a Petit Verdot that I brought back from a trip to Williamsburg in August 2022.  (Please see my previous post from that time in which I briefly mentioned this particular wine https://phillywineguy.blogspot.com/2022/08/virginia-in-vino-veritas.html .)

As I stated in my previous post, Petit Verdot is quickly becoming a signature varietal of Virginia wineries, and Upper Shirley's cuvee is a prime example of the quality, depth and richness of this grape which, though usually a minor player in Bordeaux blends and the like, takes on special dimensions as a single varietal.

First settled and farmed in 1613, Upper Shirley was built in 1867 along the banks of the James River just 20 miles southeast of Richmond.  One of just a handful of  artisan winemakers in Eastern Virginia, Upper Shirley Vineyards is a lovely, inviting and hospitable estate with a large, comfortable tasting room and restaurant with both inside and outside seating.  (Again, see my previous post for more details.)   My sampling had featured a number of red, white and rose wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Tannat and Mourvedre.  The Petit Verdot was one of the standout reds, which I was pleased to confirm on my recent tasting.

Upper Shirley Petit Verdot 2016





Origin: Eastern Virginia

Varietal: 100% Petit Verdot

Production/Tasting Notes: Long maceration on skins; 19 months  aging in French and American oak barrels; dense black cherry; brambly jam; smoky, dark chocolate; briar; dried herbs; lingering finish.   This is a luscious, powerful, full-bodied wine that even over a few days continues to develop and mellow further into layered, expanding expressions of red fruit and herbs, sustained by firm tannins. (PWG* Rating: 93-4 points)

Alcohol: 14.1%

*PWG - Philly Wine Guy. I've decided to follow suit with several wine publications and critics and implement my own rating based on my personal experience and assessment of the wine over several tastings.  As such, I will use the 100 point scale and will elaborate on it in a follow-up post. For this debut rating, I assign 93-4 points which indicates a high quality wine with certain exceptional distinctions.  Since no rating can be static, in my opinion, because of how situations can influence one's impressions and assessments, I will allow myself a bit "fudging" between points. 

I realize that the wines of Upper Shirley, including this one that I am featuring here, are not readily available outside of Virginia.  However, the point of this post is to encourage you to explore local and regional wineries when you're on the road, take time to taste the wines, and bring home a few bottles to experience them in a different time and place and see how your perception of the wine may have changed.  No less important is supporting local and regional wineries that do not get the attention of the big players, for the greater the diversity of the world's terroirs, the more robust the cultivation, production and variety of wines we will enjoy.  Salud!




Monday, February 10, 2025

Wine Dinner Featuring (PA) Chairman's Selections

 The Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board, notoriously abbreviated PLCB, has long been the butt of many jokes, endlessly moaned and complained about, and derided by any number of wine connoisseurs, including myself.  However, over recent decades, they have loosened up a bit, if glacially, and many stores offer free wine tastings on Fridays and/or Saturdays.  In fact, I regularly attend those at the 11th and Chestnut Streets for (always) interesting and sometimes surprising selections, curated by Max and James, whom I trust as very knowledgeable and helpful wine geeks, if I may use that term  graciously.

For many years, the PLCB has offered specially discounted wines under the rubric of Chairman's Selections.  I have often availed myself of these (usually) exceptional deals, the only caveat being that they are for the most part "once and done", meaning once the supply is exhausted, you may not see it again.  Nevertheless, they are always worth seeking out.

Which leads me to the theme for a recent wine dinner among a small group of friends where I featured a tasting of five Chairman's Selections, two white and three red, all of which were enthusiastically imbibed by the dinner guests. (Once again I regret that I neglected to take pictures of the delicious food laid out by our gracious hosts, for which I will no doubt be reprimanded!)

In any event, I highly recommend seeking out any of these featured wines for a delightful accompaniment to your next meal. Salud! 

(P.S. I purchased all of them at the Ardmore location, but most should be available at specialty Wine and Spirits stores throughout Pennsylvania.)


Monte del Frà Cà del Magro Custoza Superiore 2021

Origin:  Cà del Magro Custoza Denominazione di Origine Controllata (Veneto, SE of Lake Garda, Italy)

Varietals: Garganega, Trebbiano Toscan, Cortese, Incrocio Manzoni

Production/Tasting Notes:  Unoaked; fresh and bright with notes of  peach, apricots, lemon, melon, honeysuckle, quince paste, beeswax, almonds; lively acidity;  extra virgin olive oil texture on the palate(?); medium to full-bodied with layers of mineral, pepper and smoke; long salt-tinged finish. (91 points Wine Spectator;  93 points, James Suckling)

Food Pairing: Aperitif; light appetizers; fresh water fish; vegetarian and Mediterranean fare

Alcohol:13%

 

Jean-Claude Mas Allnat Vermentino 2023

Origin: Pays d'Oc (France)

Varietals: 100% Vermentino

Production/Tasting Notes: Light, fresh and elegant nose with floral notes of hawthorn, lime blossom, fresh pear and touch of lemon; juicy, textured palate with integrated acidity;

Food  Pairings:  seafood salad; scallop carpaccio with citrus vinaigrette; langoustine flambéed with pastis; fillet of red mullet

Alcohol: 13%

 

 Bodegas Manzanos 111 Reserva  2018



Origin: Rioja DOCa (Spain)

Varietal: Tempranillo; Garnacha; Graciano

Production/Tasting Notes: Aromas of blackberry, red apple peel, vanilla; pleasant mouthfeel; abundant tannins; flavors of black cherry, black raspberry, cherry pipe tobacco, clove, mint; touch of salinity on extended finish. (93 points, Wine Enthusiast)

Food Pairing: tapas; olives; roasted pepper; smoked meat; Serrano ham

Alcohol:  13.5%

 

Casa Silva Dona Dominga Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2022



Origin: D.O. Valle de Cochagua, Chile

Varietal: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Production/Tasting Notes: Complex, elegant; up-front notes of calendula and dried currant; spiced currant and cranberry developing into chocolate-covered raspberry nuances; well-notable structure and depth on the mid-palate; lengthy finish. (92 points, Wine Spectator)

 Food Pairings: Grilled meat; roast beef; mushroom stroganoff; Havarti; Guyere 

Alcohol: 14.5%

 

Courtois La Grange Vinsobres 2020



Origin: Appellation Vinsobres Contrôlée (Côtes-du-Rhône)

Varietal: 55% Grenache; 45% Syrah

Production/Tasting Notes: Layered and complex; full-on flavors of boysenberry, plum, violet, cherry amply sprinkled piquant white pepper; smoked herbs; densely packed with streaks of salinity and iron fused with firm tannins; well-structured, powerful. (90 points, Wine Spectator)

 

Food Pairing: beef stew, lamb, roasted or grilled red meats

Alcohol: 14%